‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—NOVEMBER 2025
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
3758 E. Washington Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/244-5661 or info@kleinsfloral.com
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS:
Klein’s Holiday Open House is Saturday & Sunday, November 22 & 23
Plant Your Spring Bulbs Into Early December
Klein’s Is Again Voted Among the Best of Madison
Our ‘Mad Gardener‘ and ‘Houseplant Help‘ Are Ready for Your Questions
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
Protect Your Plants Now from Winter Burn
Winter Burn and Anti-transpirants
You Asked about Fungus Gnats and a Jade Plant
We Reuse Your Teal-colored 5″ Klein’s Pots
Product Spotlight: Summit Mosquito Bits® for Fungus Gnat Control
Plant of the Month: Money Tree (Pachira aquatica)
Klein’s Favorite Sweet Potato Soup Recipes
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—From October 2025
—Garden Journaling How-To’s
—November’s Beaver Moon
—Winter Mulching Basics
November in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Review Klein’s @: Yelp, Google Reviews or Facebook Reviews
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
KLEIN’S 2025 HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE is Saturday, November 22 and Sunday, November 23. Enter a winter wonderland filled with our homegrown poinsettias, holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs.
On Friday, November 21, join us for our Holiday Open House Sneak Peek (3:00-6:00) with 30% off holiday décor and ornaments (some exclusions apply)
Enlighten your senses as you step into our warm and cozy greenhouses. The serene beauty of being in the greenhouses after dark is a truly unique experience. Surround yourself with the sights, sounds and smells of the holidays!
SHOP FOR YOUR SPRING BULBS WHILE SUPPLIES LAST
November is a perfect time to plant your spring bulbs and nothing could be more uplifting after a long winter than bulbs popping through the melting snow. Allow the Klein’s staff to share planting tips and ideas to keep those pesky squirrels from digging up those newly planted bulbs. And for indoor blooms, don’t forget a few hyacinths, paperwhites and amaryllis for indoor forcing. We carry a lovely assortment of forcing glasses, vases and decorative pottery. Forced bulbs make for an inexpensive and treasured holiday gift. Any bulb questions? Don’t forget our Mad Gardener @ madgardener@kleinsfloral.com!
A Reminder: Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes . . . usually into early December.
FOR NEIGHBORHOOD EVENTS OR GARDEN TOURSthat you would like posted on our web site or in our monthly newsletters, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison area.
WE STERILIZE AND REUSE YOUR TEAL-COLORED 5″ KLEIN’S POTS
Due to costs, we are unable to reuse most plastic pots and trays and never those from other retailers. But we are happy to take back and reuse the teal-colored 5″ Klein’s pots and their accompanying trays. Simply bring in your cleaned out pots and trays and drop them off with the associates at the checkout counters or in the bin along the building. We ask that you recycle or dispose of all other pots, containers and trays in compliance with your municipality’s guidelines. We do not reuse the plant identification tags.
Madison is currently NOT accepting rigid plastics (flower pots and trays) for recycling due to import restrictions enacted by China for scrap material. At present, there is no end market to accept the type of plastic scrap the mixed rigid plastic program produces. Until further notice, rigid plastics are to be placed in the refuse bins for disposal.
THE MAD GARDENER
Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
KLEIN’S ‘HOUSEPLANT HELP’
You can contact Klein’s in-house indoor plant experts by emailing to houseplanthelp@kleinsfloral.com for sound information and advice regarding indoor tropicals, succulents, blooming plants and so much more.
For many years, customers’ indoor plant questions have been directed to Klein’s Mad Gardener. Now you have the opportunity to contact our indoor plant experts directly. We’ve posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
We reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
NOVEMBER STORE HOURS:
Monday thru Friday : 9:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
November 2–Día de los Muertos
November 2–Daylight Savings Time Ends
November 4–Election Day (National)
November 5–Full Moon
November 11–Veterans’ Day. We’d like to show our appreciation for all veterans, active and retired, by giving a 10% discount on Veterans Day for in-store purchases** when you identify as a veteran on Tuesday, November 11th. Thank you for serving our country! A US Military ID is requested, but not required. **Excludes services and gift cards. Discount not available for online orders.
November 19–Plant Bingo at Klein’s—Think regular bingo… but with plants!
Join Hannah and Jordalyn for our very first Plant Bingo Night on Wednesday, November 19 at 5 PM. It’s sure to be a fun evening filled with laughter, trivia, and plenty of plant prizes!
November 21–Holiday Open House Sneak Peek (3:00-6:00) 30% off holiday décor and ornaments (some exclusions apply).
November 22 & 23–KLEIN’S HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE. Enter a winter wonderland filled with holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs. 20% off holiday décor and ornaments (some exclusions apply).
November 22–Holiday Photos with Becky Van Boxtel Photography, LLC (9:00-4:00). Come to the Holiday Open House at Klein’s Floral and Greenhouse and get a professional fully edited digital image, and the print release for just $25 each. Sessions will have a beautifully designed holiday backdrop inside the greenhouse, perfect for those holiday cards. Bring your pups, kids, whomever you like! All are welcome. Sign up: https://vanboxtelphotographyllc.pixieset.com/…/klein-s
November 25–Thanksgiving Wine & Design (5:30-6:30). Design a centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table centerpiece while enjoying a glass of wine (non-alcoholic options available) and light appetizers. Cost is $50. Advance registration and payment is required. Sign up in-store or online – https://kleinsfloral.com/…/thanksgiving-centerpiece/
November 27–Thanksgiving Day (Store Closed)
November 28–“Green” Friday. Escape to Klein’s from the hustle and bustle of the malls and big box chain stores for a more relaxing and intimate holiday gift shopping experience. We not only carry merchandise for the gardener in your life, but many fun, interesting and unique gift ideas. **Green plants (houseplants) will be 20% off.
November 29–Small Business Saturday. In appreciation for supporting our small and local business, Klein’s will give you a $20 gift card on future purchases (January 1-March 31, 2026) for all purchases of $100 or more (excluding gift cards). Limited to one $20 gift card per customer.
‘THE FLOWER SHOPPE’:
Congratulations to the Klein’s floral team for its selection as one of Madison’s top florists in the Best of Madison’s most recent readers’ poll…and thank you for your votes!
Klein’s team of talented designers is available to serve you every day of the week (but Sunday). Sarah, Renee, Sue and Bonnie are here to answer all of your floral and design questions most days from 9:00 to 2:00 daily. We not only carry a huge assortment of fresh cut flowers, but also blooming and green plants, balloons and oodles of gift ideas. If you’re not sure what you want, we’d be happy to make suggestions.
Need something quickly? Our huge retail cooler is always stocked with vased roses, stunning fresh arrangements in many styles and price ranges and buckets of loose cut flowers from which to pick and choose. We also have much more in stock, so if there’s something you don’t see—just ask.
Need to send something out of town? Why we can do that, too.
For ideas and easy on-line ordering, check out our website by clicking on www.kleinsfloralandgreenhouses.comor talk to one of our designers directly at 608/244-5661. For delivery information see Delivery Info. We offer same day delivery for orders placed before 12:30 p.m.
YOU ASKED. . .
I have a jade plant that has fungus gnats. How can I get rid of them? The baby baby jade plant was doing very well, but now the small new leaves near the soil are dropping off. I just ordered and bought some of those sticky traps you insert in the soil, but that seems pretty passive. Thank you so much in advance for your suggestions! Jen
It’s odd that a jade (Crassula)/baby jade (Portulacaria) plant would even have fungus gnat eggs and larvae in the soil. Jade plants are desert plants that need very dry soil. Fungus gnat larvae cannot survive in dry soil. They need to be in constantly moist, somewhat rich soil to survive by feeding on the decaying organic matter in the soil. Unless you’re overwatering your jade, another plant must be the culprit and the source of the fungus gnats….a plant that is staying moist fairly constantly. That said, because fungus gnat larvae feed on decaying matter, your jade plant could be the source if it has developed either root or stem rot. The larvae would then be feeding on the decaying parts of the plant itself.
Sticky traps do not eliminate fungus gnat infestations…they just show you how bad the problem is by trapping the adults. Some of the females will certainly lay eggs in the soil before they get stuck in the traps. The best way to rid plants of fungus gnats is to allow the plants to get dry between waterings (forgoing plants that need to be constantly moist), avoid rich and organic potting mixes, periodically use a neem oil drench, or use Mosquito Bits per package instructions with diligence. It’s one of the only products on the market to consumers listed for fungus gnat control.
Fungus gnats do not harm healthy plants. They are simply a nuisance and come along with owning houseplants. Nowadays, nearly all plants come with them from Florida and the eggs and larvae are now in many brands of bagged potting mixes.
Thanks for your question,
madgardener@kleinsfloral.com, houseplanthelp@kleinsfloral.com
DID YOU KNOW. . .
. . . that now is the perfect time to help prevent winter burn from occurring to your conifers and shrubs during the cold months ahead?
Winter can be particularly hard on Madison area conifers, shrubs and ornamental trees. The following article discussing winter burn is by Laura Jull, UW-Madison Horticulture @ hort.extension.wisc.edu
What is winter burn? Winter burn is a common problem of evergreens including those with broad leaves (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron), needles (e.g., fir, hemlock, pine, spruce, yew) and scale-like leaves (e.g., arborvitae, false cypress, juniper) grown in open, unprotected locations and exposed to severe winter conditions. Evergreen plants that are marginally hardy in a location (i.e., not well-adapted to local winter conditions) are at increased risk for winter burn. Winter burn can be so severe that affected plants may die and/or require replacement.
What does winter burn look like? Winter burn symptoms often become apparent as the snow melts and spring temperatures rise. Foliage starts to brown at the tips of branches with browning progressing inward toward the center of the plant. On broad-leaved evergreens, leaf edges typically brown first, followed by browning of entire leaves. Foliage facing south, southwest or west is most often affected. Symptomatic foliage often begins to drop off starting in spring and continuing through mid-summer as new foliage is produced. In extreme cases, entire plants can brown and die.
What causes winter burn? There are many factors that can contribute to winter burn. In general, plants with shallow or poorly-developed root systems that do not efficiently take up water (e.g., recent transplants) are more prone to winter burn. Warm fall temperatures that delay the onset of plant dormancy can also contribute to winter burn. Under such conditions, plants are not prepared for the subsequent rapid onset of freezing winter temperatures, and as a result damage to foliage occurs. Similar cold injury can occur mid-winter when temperatures drop sharply at sunset causing foliage that has warmed during the day to rapidly cool and freeze. In addition, on sunny winter days, foliage (particularly foliage facing the sun) can begin to transpire (i.e., naturally lose water through the foliage). Because the ground is frozen, plant roots cannot take up water and replace the water that has been lost from the foliage. As a result, foliage dries and browns. Foliage under snow or facing away from the sun and direct winds is usually not damaged. Strong winter winds can lead to additional water loss making winter burn more severe. Colder than normal winter temperatures and longer than normal winters can also be factors in the development of winter burn, especially if below normal temperatures occur into April (the time of year when plants normally come out of dormancy and are most susceptible to winter injury). Finally, exposure of plants to salt used to deice roads, driveways and sideways during the winter can make plants more prone to winter burn injury.
How do I save a plant with winter burn? For evergreens such as arborvitaes, boxwoods, junipers and yews, prune out dead, brown, damaged or dying tissue in mid-spring after new foliage is produced. If new foliage has not yet emerged by spring, scratch the bark on affected branches and look for green tissue underneath. Also gently peel back the bud scales to look for inner green bud tissue. If the stem or bud tissue is green, buds on the branch may still break to form new foliage. If the tissue is brown, the branch is most likely dead and you should prune the branch back to a live, lateral bud or branch. Such buds and branches may be far back inside the canopy and pruning may remove a substantial amount of the plant. Pines, spruces and firs typically produce new growth at branch tips in spring that will replace winter burn-damaged needles, and thus pruning may not be required on these evergreens. After a couple of growing seasons, new foliage will fill in the areas that were damaged. If an entire evergreen is brown, recovery is unlikely and the plant should be replaced with something (e.g., a deciduous shrub or tree) that is better-suited to the site.
How do I avoid problems with winter burn in the future? Use a variety of strategies to prevent winter burn before winter arrives. Plant the right plant in the right place. Buy plants that are rated as cold hardy for your location and are well-adapted to local growing and soil conditions. Plants exposed to drying winter sun and winds are more likely to be injured. Therefore, avoid planting winter injury sensitive evergreens, particularly those that require shade or that are marginally cold-hardy, in exposed, sunny, windy areas. Plant them on the northeast or east side of a building or in a protected courtyard. Plant boxwoods, hemlocks, rhododendrons, and yews in partial shade to provide them added protection from winter sun and wind.
—Plant evergreens at the right time of year. Optimally plant evergreens either in early spring (before buds break) or in late summer (i.e., August through September). Evergreens can be planted in the summer if you provide supplemental water. Avoid planting after early October in northern Wisconsin and after mid-October in southern Wisconsin as this will not allow sufficient time for roots to grow adequately before the ground freezes.
—DO NOT prune evergreens in late summer or early fall. Late season pruning of some non-native evergreens may encourage a flush of new growth that will not harden off properly before winter.
—Mulch evergreens properly. Apply two inches (on clay soils) to four inches (on sandy soils) of loose mulch (e.g., shredded hardwood, pine, or cedar bark; leaf compost; or wood chips) around the base of evergreens out to at least the drip line (e.g., the edge of where the branches extend). Keep mulch at least three inches away from the trunks of trees and the bases of shrubs. Proper mulch insulates roots from severe fluctuations of soil temperatures and reduces water loss. It also helps protect roots from injury due to heaving that occurs when soils go through cycles of freezing and thawing during the winter. Heaving can especially be a problem for shallow-rooted and newly planted evergreens. DO NOT mulch excessively or too close to plants as this can lead to damage by providing shelter for mice and voles (which can girdle trunks and branches) and by providing a favorable environment for disease development as well as insect activity and feeding.
—Water plants properly. Plants that are well-hydrated are less prone to winter burn. In particular, newly planted or young evergreens, especially those planted in open, exposed sites, those planted under eaves, or those planted in dry falls may suffer severe moisture loss during the winter and consequently severe winter burn. ***Established evergreens should receive approximately one inch of water per week and newly transplanted evergreens up to two inches of water per week during the growing season up until the soil freezes in the autumn or there is a significant snowfall.*** If supplemental watering is needed, use a soaker or drip hose to apply water near the drip lines of plants rather than using a sprinkler.
—Avoid late summer or fall fertilization. Applying quick-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers in late summer or fall could potentially stimulate growth of new foliage (particularly on some non-native evergreens) as well as inhibit proper onset of dormancy which can lead to damage over the winter. If you are concerned that your evergreens may need to be fertilized, submit a soil sample from around your plants to a professional soil testing lab that can provide specific information on what fertilizer to use and when to fertilize,
Protect plants during the winter. Use burlap, canvas, snow fencing or other protective materials to create barriers that will protect plants from winter winds and sun. Install four to five foot tall stakes approximately two feet from the drip lines of plants especially on the south and west sides (or any side exposed to wind) and wrap protective materials around the stakes to create “fenced” barriers. Leave the top open. These barriers will deflect the wind and protect plants from direct exposure to the sun. Remove the barrier material promptly in spring. DO NOT tightly wrap individual plants with burlap as this can collect ice, trap moisture and make plants more susceptible to infection by disease-causing organisms. Use of anti-transpirant products (see our Natural News feature later in this newsletter) to prevent water loss from foliage over the winter has been shown to have limited benefit. These materials degrade rapidly, require reapplication after each significant rain or snow event, and may not be effective in preventing water loss that can lead to winter burn.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Summit Mosquito Bits® for Fungus Gnat Control
Summit Mosquito Bits® (available at Klein’s), a popular biological control that kills mosquito larvae, is also approved for the control of fungus gnats. The active ingredient in Mosquito Bits® is a biological larvacide called BTI (Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis). BTI is a naturally occurring bacterium that’s deadly to both mosquito larvae and fungus gnat larvae.
Fungus gnats can infest potted plants, and the insects can be difficult to control. Fungus gnats lay their eggs in the potting soil of houseplants and container plants, and the larvae live in the moist potting mix. In the larval stage, the fungus gnat maggots can cause plant damage by eating plant roots. After about two to three weeks, the fungus gnat maggots pupate to become the tiny black adult gnats that often take flight in a cloud of insects when a potted plant is moved.
To control fungus gnats, simply shake the granular Mosquito Bits® onto the potting soil in houseplants and other container-grown plants. Mosquito Bits® can also be mixed with potting soil prior to planting. When the plants are watered, the BTI in the Mosquito Bits® will be released. After subsequent watering, the BTI is washed below the soil surface. Fungus gnat larvae feed on the BTI and die.
***A more effective method of application is to make a “tea” with tepid water following the instructions on the package. Newer research has shown this method provides faster results when followed diligently.
The BTI in Mosquito Bits® also provides an extremely fast and effective way to quickly kill large populations of mosquito larvae. When spread on standing water where mosquitoes breed, Mosquito Bits® granules release a biological mosquito larvicide at the water’s surface. As the Mosquito Bits® settle in the water, hungry mosquito larvae eat the Bits and die.
Mosquito Bits® can be used in virtually all standing water, including ponds and water gardens, rain barrels, roof gutters, bird baths, flower pots and saucers, tree holes, unused swimming pools, old automobile tires, animal watering troughs and wherever water collects. Mosquito Bits® are also effective in grassy or marshy areas and where the mosquito population is extremely dense and a quick kill is needed.
Just sprinkle one teaspoon of Mosquito Bits per 25 square feet of water surface area or one tablespoon per 75 square feet. Mosquito Bits® will kill mosquito larvae for seven to 14 days. Additional applications of Mosquito Bits should be made in seven- to 14-day intervals for continued mosquito control.
Source: www.summitchemical.com
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach
ENTRY: OCTOBER 11, 2025 (Garden Journaling How-To’s)
I began garden journaling when I bought my home and started my gardens in 1986. Rather than a true garden journal, my current journal of choice is the spiral bound Sierra Club engagement calendar available at most bookstores and online. It offers plenty of space for daily entries and for adequate note-taking. It’s always lying open somewhere on the counter so I can make entries throughout the day.
Garden Journaling
by Pamela Hubbard, Penn State Master Gardener @ extension.psu.edu
As a passionate gardener I believe that one of the keys to success is keeping records of your gardening endeavors. To this end, a fun and useful winter activity is to start a garden journal.
A garden journal is your own personal diary of what happens in your garden, starting with the planning in January through putting your garden to bed in October. It provides a place to keep together all information, plans and notes about your garden. Your journal can be as simple as a composition book or as elaborate as a creative scrapbooking endeavor. I’ve tried several methods and developed a few tips for effective garden journaling.
Begin by choosing the type of journal that would best work for you. Consider if you want to record simple details or your gardening story.
- For simple details you can use notebook paper, a composition book or notecards. Just be sure to date each page or card. I used this method for years until I felt the need to be more organized (I couldn’t always find what I was searching for) therefore switched to calendars.
- I prefer a monthly calendar with a large square for each day and a desk calendar with a page for each week. I use the former to record seed-starting activities and the latter for more detailed notes.
- If you want more room to write, there are some beautiful dedicated garden journals available in bookstores. They often contain graphs for sketching and planning, calendars without dates so the journal can be used any year, space to record your thoughts, charts for recording information like flower purchases and blooming times, and information pages with gardening hints for each month.
- Using a computer is a fast way to record what is going on in your garden; it is faster than writing your journal by hand. If this method is for you it has the benefit of being able to add digital photographs right into the document, size them to meet your needs, and easily delete and replace them. Like many gardeners around the world, I write an online gardening blog that records my gardening journey in photographs, but that method is not for everyone. Just try to write something each month, remembering to include the date and year in each entry. Save your entries and print them when you have completed a year.
- Keep the printed pages in a three-ring binder for future reference. Place tabs in the binder to mark the years. I like to save plant tags but too often they disappear and I can’t remember names of plants. Adding photo sleeves for plant tags solves this problem. Also, your binder is a good place to keep gardening information from newspapers and magazines.
What to Record
- Vegetable garden information: As new seed catalogs arrive, begin by making an inventory of the leftover seeds from previous years and list the new ones you need to order. Plan your vegetable garden on graph paper at this time and add it to your journal. It’s important to note where you planted vegetables last year so that you can rotate vegetables in the same family. For example, do not follow tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant or peppers with each other or you will encourage soil-borne diseases and pest outbreaks.
- Landscape beds: Draw a rough sketch of each landscape bed indicating its plantings. Show the places where you plan to add flowers and shrubs in the coming season and mark their names. At the beginning of the season, record planting dates; add plant tags or seed packets. You may want to list flower colors, bloom times, plant heights and growing requirements.
- Seasonal landmarks: Record the dates of each year’s seasonal landmarks: weather patterns, when the first spring flower bloomed, arrival of butterflies and hummingbirds, the first and last frost. Also, note when pest problems appeared and what you did about them.
- Regular gardening activities: Document your gardening activities such as soil preparation, watering, mulching and fertilizing. Identify areas that receive too little or too much water. Record when you harvest vegetables. Note garden successes and needed improvements. Your journal will help identify where in your garden different types of plants thrive.
- Budget: A journal enables you to keep track of your garden expenses. It may be useful to record the nurseries and catalogs you used. If possible include the receipts and note the purchase dates.
How to Use the Information in Your Journal
The information in your journal becomes an invaluable reference to review at the end of the year or to look back on over the years. You can identify where different types of plants thrive, obtain a greater understanding of landscape characteristics such as microclimates and check that you have ‘the right plant in the right place.’ I record high and low temperatures and rainfall amounts; in midsummer if a plant isn’t doing well I look back to see if weather was a factor. As you review past journals you will see patterns in your garden. By looking at photographs over the years, I noted the decline of a beloved climbing rose, Rosa Blaze Improved, and decided this year I will remove it and replace it with a clematis. While I’m sad at losing the rose, I have the fun of choosing a new climbing plant. My journal helps me plan for the future; it is a tool to prevent repeated mistakes. My journal becomes especially valuable as my memory needs more help.
Now is the time to plan for the new garden season; it is the perfect time to begin a garden journal. Keeping a garden journal can give you a wonderful feeling of accomplishment. Choose a method of journaling that suits you and have fun! Happy journaling!
* * * * *
ENTRY: OCTOBER 23, 2025 (November’s Beaver Moon)
This morning I read an article discussing fall garden prep and projects in which it referred to next month’s full moon as the Beaver Moon. I had never heard that term before and it made me curious about each month’s full moon name and its history.
Full Moon Names and Meanings
Many human cultures have given names to the full moon throughout the year. Different full moon names can be found among the Chinese, Celtic, Old English, and New Guinea cultures, to name a few. In addition, Native American tribes often used moon phases and cycles to keep track of the seasons and gave a unique name to each recurring full moon. The full moon names were used to identify the entire month during which each occurred.
Although many Native American Tribes gave distinct names to the full moon, the most well known names of the full moon come from the Algonquin tribes who lived in the area of New England and westward to Lake Superior. The Algonquin tribes had perhaps the greatest effect on the early European settlers in America, and the settlers adopted the Native American habit of naming the moons. They even invented some of their own names that have been passed down through time.
The names given below aren’t the only ones that have been used. Every full moon, with one exception, had variations on its name among various Algonquin tribes, not to mention other tribes throughout North America. But the names below are the most common. Some of the variations are also mentioned.
January: The Wolf Moon
In January snow gathers deep in the woods and the howling of wolves can be heard echoing in the cold still air. Some tribes called this moon the Snow Moon, but most often it was used for the next month.
February: The Snow Moon
Snow piles even higher in February, giving this moon its most common name. Among tribes that used this name for the January moon, the February moon was called the Hunger Moon due to the challenging hunting conditions.
March: The Worm Moon
Snow slowly begins to melt, the ground softens, and earthworms show their heads again and their castings or fecal matter can be found. Other signs of spring gave rise to other variations: the cawing of crows (the Crow Moon); the formation of crusts on the snow from repeated thawing and freezing (the Crust Moon); and the time for tapping maple trees (the Sap Moon). Christian settlers also called this the Lenten Moon and considered it the last moon of winter.
April: The Pink Moon
Flowers begin to appear, including the widespread grass pink or wild ground phlox. Other variations indicate more signs of full spring, such as Sprouting Grass Moon, Egg Moon, and Fish Moon (common among coastal tribes).
May: The Flower Moon
Flowers come into full bloom and corn is ready to plant. Also called the Corn Planting Moon and the Milk Moon.
June: The Strawberry Moon
Strawberry-picking season reaches its peak during this time. This is one of the few names that was universal to all Algonquin tribes.
July: The Buck Moon
Buck deer start growing velvety hair-covered antlers in July. Frequent thunderstorms in the New England area also resulted in the name Thunder Moon. Some tribes also used Hay Moon.
August: The Sturgeon Moon
The sturgeon, a large fish common to the Great Lakes and other nearby bodies of water, is most easily caught during this month. The reddish appearance of the moon through the frequent sultry hazes of August also prompted a few tribes to dub it the Red Moon. Other names included the Green Corn Moon and the Grain Moon.
September: The Harvest Moon
Many of the Native American tribes’ staple foods, such as corn, pumpkins, squash, beans, and rice, are ready for gathering at this time. The strong light of the Harvest Moon allowed European farmers to work late into the night to harvest their crops. The Harvest Moon does not always occur in September. Traditionally, the name goes to the full moon closest to the autumn equinox, which falls during October once or twice a decade. Sometimes the September full moon was called the Corn Moon.
October: The Hunter’s Moon
After the fields have been reaped, the leaves begin to fall and the deer are fat and ready for eating. Hunters can ride easily over the fields’ stubble, and the fox and other animals are more easily spotted. Some years the Harvest Moon falls in October instead of September.
November: The Beaver Moon
At this time of year the beavers are busy preparing for winter, and it’s time to set beaver traps and secure a store of warm fur before the swamps freeze over. Some tribes called this the Frosty Moon.
December: The Cold Moon
Winter takes a firm hold and temperatures plummet at this time. Sometimes this moon is also called the Long Night Moon as the winter nights lengthen and the moon spends more time above the horizon opposite a low sun. The full moon name often used by Christian settlers is the “Moon before Yule”.
Other Full Moon Names:
–Blue Moon-Occasionally, two full Moons occur within the same calendar month. The first full Moon goes by the name normally assigned to that month’s full Moon, but the second full Moon is commonly called a Blue Moon. Blue Moons occur about every 2½ years.
–Black Moon-In contrast to the Blue Moon, Black Moon has been used to refer to a month in which there is no full Moon; this can only occur in February, because the calendar month has fewer days (28 or 29 days) than the lunar month (about 29.5 days). The term may also refer to a second new Moon occurring within a calendar month; by this definition, a Black Moon can never occur in February.
–Supermoon-A full Moon is said to be a “Supermoon” when it is at the point in its orbit closest to the Earth. In astronomy, the terms “perigee syzygy” or “perigee full Moon” are typically used instead of “Supermoon.”
Source: www.moonconnection.com & www.almanac.com
* * * * *
ENTRY: OCTOBER 31, 2025 (Winter Mulching Basics)
Looking ahead to my November projects, it’s time to think about preparing my beds for the cold months ahead. A little prep now avoids heartache later!
Winter Mulching in Cold Climate Gardens
By Marie Iannotti
In areas that experience freezing temperatures, winter mulching differs from mulching during the growing season. We mulch our gardens in the spring to suppress weeds, retain moisture and feed and warm the soil. While we may spread a layer of soil conditioning compost or manure in the fall, the primary reason for winter mulching is to protect our plants from the harsh conditions of winter freezes, thaws, and winds.
Why Mulch the Garden in Winter?
The main idea behind winter mulching is to keep the ground frozen by shielding it from the warmth of the sun. A steady temperature will keep the plant in dormancy and prevent it from triggering new growth during a brief warm spell. Tender, new growth too soon will just result in more winter dieback. Mulching now will also help conserve whatever water is in the soil, so hopefully, you’ve been keeping your garden beds watered right up until the hard frost.
What Can You Use to Mulch the Garden in Winter?
-Any loose, insulating material will do. Keep in mind that you’ll need to remove the mulch in the spring, or at least rake it aside. So choose a material that’s easy to handle. Shredded mulch, straw, pine needles or shredded leaves are all easy to remove or easy to work into the soil.
-If your ground doesn’t freeze until after Christmas, you can use the cut boughs of your Christmas tree as a mulch covering. These are nice because they’re so easy to remove in the spring.
-The easiest mulch is snow cover. Snow is a great insulator and protector of plants.
-Some plants will simply collapse onto themselves and act as self-mulches. Chrysanthemums survive best if allowed to do this.
When Should You Apply Winter Mulch?
…To Protect Crowns & Surface Roots
(Especially newly planted plants) Mulching to protect most perennial plants is done when the soil has started to harden, which is generally after the first hard or killing frost. A hard frost is usually defined as when temperatures drop to below 25 F, but you’ll know it when you see the last of the hardy annuals crumbled and brown in the morning. At this point, your perennials should be well into dormancy and mulching around them won’t encourage tender new growth. The ground has had time to chill and absorb fall moisture. Go ahead and spread a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plants. Grafted plants, like hybrid tea roses, benefit from being mulched more heavily. These are usually mulched with compost or soil and are actually buried to just over the graft union. You can pile the soil up around the stems or you can use some wire fencing and fill with compost.
…To Prevent Desiccation
Some shrubs that are evergreen or somewhat evergreen, like rhododendrons and viburnums, can become desiccated by harsh winds. You can protect the branches and buds by wrapping them with burlap or by spraying on an anti-desiccant, like Wilt-Pruf. (Anti-desiccants are handy to have around. You can prolong the life of your Christmas tree with a spray. They’re also good for coating carved pumpkins.) If you choose to wrap your shrubs, make certain there is space between the branches and the burlap or the burlap will freeze onto the branches and cause its own problem. You can also fill the space between the shrub and burlap with leaves, for additional insulation. Woody plants don’t require as much protection as herbaceous perennials. However, a 2 to 4-inch layer of shredded bark mulch or compost does help conserve the ground moisture. Just be sure not to pile it around the base of the plants. Keep it several inches from the stems or you’ll invite rodents, like voles and mice, who like the cover of mulch while munching on the bark. Mulching up against the stems also holds too much moisture against the plant, providing ideal conditions for diseases to take hold.
…To Prevent Heaving
When the ground repeatedly freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. When a plant is sitting in ground that expands and contracts, its roots get loosened from where they are anchored underground and the plant eventually gets pushed up through the surface of the soil, exposing its crown and roots to freezing temperatures and drying winds, which brings us right back to Reason to Winter Mulch #1. Again, you would wait until the top of the plant has died back and the ground has frozen, before applying a layer of mulch.
…To Prevent Erosion
(Especially important for fallow gardens, like vegetable gardens during winter.) Mulching unplanted garden beds can be done at any time in the fall. Ideally, you would plant a winter cover crop and let it sit until you till it under in the spring. If you choose not to plant a cover crop, it would still be beneficial to spread a layer of compost, manure or shredded leaves.
Removing Winter Mulch
The rule of thumb is to remove winter mulch in the spring when all danger of a hard frost is past. That’s sometimes very hard to judge, as anyone who’s experienced an Easter snowstorm can attest. However, when the ground starts to thaw and the smell of mud is in the air, it’s time to start raking and removing the mulch so that the ground can warm and new growth won’t be inhibited.
Source: The Spruce @ www.thespruce.com
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
Just a few decades ago it would have been nearly impossible to find a sweet potato dish on any restaurant menu here in the north. Now sweet potato fries are standard fare as bar food at many a burger establishments and diners. Now that we’re heading into ‘soup season’, we’d like to share with you some of Klein’s very favorite soup recipes where sweet potatoes are an integral ingredient. Bon Appetit!!
ROMANI STEW OVER BROWN RICE–This absolutely delicious recipe appeared in the Willy Street Co-op newsletter in 2009 and, though it looks like a lot of ingredients it’s easy and quick to put together.
2 TBS. olive oil
4 cups chopped onion
2 stalks celery, diced
4 large cloves garlic, minced
2 sweet potatoes, diced (4 cups)
2 carrots, diced
2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. paprika
1 tsp. turmeric
2 tsp. dried basil
1/4 tsp. cayenne
a large dash of cinnamon
2 bay leaves
2 tsp. tamari (Japanese soy sauce)
6 cups water
2 x 15 oz. cans garbanzos (chick peas)
2 sweet bell peppers, diced
2 x 15 oz. cans diced tomatoes with juice
Cooked brown rice
Sauté the onion, celery, sweet potato and carrot in a large pot in the oil until tender. Add the garlic, salt, paprika, turmeric, basil, cayenne, cinnamon and bay leaves and cook a few minutes. Add the tamari and the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until everything is soft; about 20 minutes. Add the garbanzos, peppers and tomatoes. Cover and simmer 10-15 minutes more or until of desired consistency. Serve over cooked brown rice.
KALE, SWEET POTATO AND SAUSAGE SOUP–A very simple and hearty recipe that appeared in Cooking Light magazine.
2 TBS. olive oil
4 cups chopped onion
1 tsp. salt, divided
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 lb. sweet Italian turkey or pork sausage
8 cups coarsely chopped sweet potato (2 1/4 lbs.)
5 cups water
4 cups chicken broth
1 lb. torn fresh kale
1 x can cannellini (white kidney beans), rinsed and drained
Heat the oil in a pot over medium-high. Sauté the onion until tender. Add 1/2 tsp. salt, the pepper flakes and the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Remove the casings from the sausage and add to the pot. Cook until lightly browned, stirring to crumble. Add the sweet potato, water and broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 8 minutes. Gradually add the kale. Return to a boil, reduce and cook 10 minutes or until the kale is tender. Stir in the rest of the salt and the beans and cook 5 minutes or till hot. Reseason as desired. Serves 10.
Note: No sausage on hand? It’s also delicious with leftover cooked chicken or ham.
SWEET POTATO CHIPOTLE SOUP—The peppers give off a pleasant belly warming heat for a cold damp day. This very easy recipe came from Martha Stewart’s Everyday Food.
2 TBS. olive oil
1 onion, chopped
coarse salt and pepper
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 cloves minced garlic
2 lbs. sweet potatoes cut into 1″ cubes
1 chipotle chile in adobo sauce, chopped
7 cups chicken broth
sour cream for serving
tortilla chips
In a pot, heat 1 TBS. of the oil on medium high. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook until the edges brown (about 8 minutes). Add the cumin and garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in the potatoes, chile and the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a rapid simmer and cook, partly covered, until tender, about 20-25 minutes. Puree the soup with an immersion blend until smooth (or use a blender or food processor in batches). Reseason to taste. Serve with sour cream and chips. Serves 8.
CALYPSO BEEF SOUP—This fantastic recipe from the Wisconsin Beef Council is a new-found family favorite.
3 lbs. ground beef
2 cups diced sweet potato
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped red pepper
2 tsp. curry powder
4 TBS. flour
4 cups beef broth
2 x 15 oz. cans black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed
2 x 13.5 oz. cans lite unsweetened coconut milk (for cooking, not baking)
4 cups packed fresh spinach leaves
2 TBS. dried thyme
salt and pepper to taste
Brown the ground beef in a heavy pot and set aside. Pour off the drippings and add the sweet potato, onion, red pepper and curry. Cook until tender crisp, stirring occasionally. Stir in the flour and cook 1 minute, stirring. Stir in the broth, peas and milk. Bring to a boil, reduce, cover and simmer about 10 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Stir in the spinach and the thyme and continue cooking until the spinach is wilted. Season to taste. Serve with warm bread and a salad. Serves 12.
ASIAN SWEET POTATO LEEK SOUP—We got this recipe from the Channel 3000 website more than a decade ago. A delicious fall soup!
1/2 lb. bacon
2 large leeks, diced
2 tsp. minced garlic
8 cups diced sweet potato
2 x 15 oz. cans chicken broth
2 x 14 oz. cans lite coconut milk (for cooking, not baking)
1 tsp. lime juice
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. packed brown sugar
1 tsp Asian hot chili garlic sauce of choice
1 cup dry white wine
salt and pepper
sour cream for serving
Cook the bacon in a heavy soup pot until crisp. Crumble and set aside. Discard all but 2 TBS. of the drippings. Sauté the leeks in the hot drippings. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Add the potatoes and both and cook until fork tender. Add the milk, lime juice, ginger and sugar. Puree to desired consistency with an immersion blender (or use a blender or food processor in batches) leaving a few chunks. Add the chili sauce and wine and reheat. Taste and add more sugar, juice or chili sauce to suit your taste. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the bacon. Serve with a dollop of sour cream. Serves 8.
NATURAL NEWS–
Anti-transpirants (also called anti-desciccants) are compounds applied to plants to reduce transpiration. Anti-transpirants are used on Christmas trees, cut flowers, newly
transplanted shrubs, and in other applications to preserve and protect plants from drying out too quickly. Anti-transpirants have also been used to protect leaves from salt burn and fungal diseases.
Winter cold and winds can be harsh on your landscape. Evergreen trees and shrubs maintain foliage throughout the winter months where they continue to lose moisture. With winter temperature fluctuations, moisture loss and the ground still frozen, transpiration occurs from the needles and leaves increasing water demand. If the roots cannot keep up with these demands the needles and leaves start to turn brown and die. Desiccation is a dehydration of the plant due to water loss from the leaves through transpiration. This is caused by long dry periods of cold and thaw along with winter winds.
Historically most growers use anti-transpirants during the winter months when cold
winds can seriously dehydrate and damage plants. Commonly called ‘winter burn’, the
most visible symptom is the browning of conifers (especially arborvitae and yews in our area) planted in areas exposed to harsh north winds. The use of anti-transpirants on holiday greenery and Christmas trees slows premature browning and in many cases acts as a flame retardant.
Apply anti-transpirants when the daytime temperatures start falling below 50º (late fall/early winter). Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours.
Anti-transpirants are organic and break down under heat and light so it is recommended to spray again in late winter. Most are made from natural waxes and tree resins. The most popular brands of anti-transpirants include Wilt Stop® from Bonide, Moisturin from WellPlant, Inc. and Wilt-Pruf® .
However, it’s best to avoid plant-moisture problems in the first place by siting your plants appropriately, watering the soil as needed, and mulching to conserve soil moisture and to reduce and delay soil freezing so that roots remain active.
Sources for this article include: landscapedesignbylee.blogspot.com
NOVEMBER’S PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Money Tree (Pachira aquatica)
Klein’s currently has a nice selection of Money Trees in 4″, 6″ and larger pots.
With a braided trunk and lush, glossy leaves, it’s no wonder this plant is so popular. It is said to bring luck and wealth, adds vitality to any home, and is also highly-rated as an air-purifier!
A “money tree” is actually multiple Pachira aquatica trees painstakingly braided together during growth. Pachira aquatica is a broadleaf evergreen native to Central and South America and has many common names including Malabar chestnut, Guiana chestnut, French peanut, saba nut, monguba, pumpo, provision tree, and wild kapok tree.
In the wild, Pachira aquatica can grow up to 59 feet tall.
You might expect that the symbolism of the money tree goes back centuries. In reality, the first modern money tree was cultivated in Taiwan as a bonsai by a truck driver in the 1980s! It quickly became a symbol of prosperity and highly sought after by Feng Shui practitioners.
A legend was born along with the cultivation of the money tree:
A man who was down on his luck prayed for prosperity, and soon discovered the money tree and took it home. He soon realized that from its seeds he could cultivate many more trees. He made a business selling these beautiful trees to others and made his fortune.
That is why the money tree is a popular gift in East Asian culture, in business as well as personal affairs.
In Feng Shui, there are several plants that can be used to promote abundance, but the money tree is favorable in many ways.
The braided trunk of the Chinese money tree is said to be able to trap fortune within its folds. The five leaves typically found on a stalk are said to represent the five elements of balance: earth, fire, water, wind, and metal. Finding a stalk with seven leaves is incredibly rare, and also said to bring immense luck to the owner.
Along with its status as a luck-magnet, money tree plants are incredibly easy to care for. They only require indirect light and infrequent watering, making it an easy plant for beginners.
The money tree is also highly-rated as an air-purifier. A famous NASA study of indoor plants on air quality lists Pachira aquatica as one of the most effective filters of harmful pollutants.
The icing on the cake is that money trees are ASPCA-certified pet-friendly. However, while it is non-toxic, it can cause digestive upset if consumed in large volumes.
Source: bloomscape.com
AROUND TOWN:
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter.
43rd Annual Herb Fair @ Olbrich Botanical Gardens
Saturday, November 1, 10:00-4:00
This Year’s Theme: Explosion of Flavor
The Herb Fair annually sponsored by the Madison Herb Society, reaches out to the public through lectures and demonstrations and provides an outlet for members to expand their knowledge and abilities to use herbs.
Hear about herbs from speakers and vendors. Purchase herbal products. Make & take projects, demonstrations, and a Q & A station. Free! Sponsored by the Madison Herb Society. Visit madisonherbsociety.org/annual-herb-fair for a detailed schedule of the day’s events.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
All About Owls @ the Arboretum
Saturday, November 1, 1:00 pm – 3:00 pm (Sorry, but this class is full)
Class
Learn about Wisconsin’s twelve owl species, focusing on the three that nest in Madison, and how to identify these elusive birds of prey. Habitat, calls, courtship, hunting, and eating will be discussed. Instructor: Sylvia Marek, Arboretum naturalist. Indoor class. Fee: $20. Register by October 28. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Nature Hike @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 9, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Learn about the land, plants, animals, fungi, phenology, and ecology. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes. Walks canceled for unsafe weather or trail conditions. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Family Nature Program: Patterns in Nature @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 16, 1:30 pm – 3:30 pm
This program is a fun, fascinating way for families with children elementary age and younger to explore the natural world. Nature walk: 1:30–2:30 p.m., activities: 2:30–3:30 p.m. Adults must attend. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather. Walks canceled for unsafe weather or trail conditions. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Cocktails in the Conservatory @ Olbrich Gardens
Friday, November 14, 6:45 p.m.-11:00 p.m.
Stay-cation in the tropics! Sip botanically-inspired cocktails and groove to a variety of music spun by local DJs in Olbrich’s Bolz Conservatory! All proceeds benefit the Gardens.
Tonight’s Music: DJ BPLar—Openformat, Funk, Hip Hop, Afro House, Deep House, Soul, Downtemple, Bass House, Nu Disco, Techno, R&B, Drum in bass, Breakbeat, Pop
Tickets go on sale November 3 @ 10 a.m. Cost: $12/person. Must be 21 or over.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Nature Walk: the CCC and the Arboretum
Sunday, November 23, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
In 1935, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) set up its only camp on a university campus. More than 200 men served at Camp Madison before it closed in 1941. Learn how they contributed to the restoration of native Wisconsin ecosystems and walk through the landscape they helped create. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Rotary Botanical Gardens’ Holiday Light Show
November 28-30, December 5-7, December 11-23, December 26-30 and January 2-3
This year marks the 29th Annual Holiday Light Show at Rotary Botanical Gardens, Rock County’s most beloved winter tradition and one of the Midwest’s top holiday destinations.
From November 28, 2025, through January 3, 2026, guests of all ages are invited to wander wide-eyed through 20 acres of gardens transformed into a dazzling winter wonderland, illuminated by over 2 million lights and filled with festive displays, hot cocoa, carolers, and holiday cheer.
The 29-night event is an immersive experience that brings joy, wonder, and community together under the lights welcoming visitors, supported by volunteers, and raising essential funds for the Gardens’ year-round mission.
This year we’re also excited to launch our first-ever Holiday Market, running December 13–23. Shop unique gifts, handmade treasures, and seasonal favorites while enjoying the festive atmosphere of the Gardens. We hope this will become a cherished annual tradition.
Doors open 4:30 pm. Last ticket sold 8:30 pm.
Admission is $15 for adults purchased online ($18 at the gate), $5 for children 3-12 and free for 2 & under.
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr., Janesville, WI
608/752-3885 or www.rotarybotanicalgardens.org/
Scenic Stroll @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 30, 1:00 pm – 2:00 pm
This gently paced stroll through the gardens is well-suited for a multi-generational outing. Learn about plants, animals, and fungi; phenology; and ecology. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Routes are wheelchair accessible when weather allows. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Dane County Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, April 12 thru November 8, 6:15-1:45
On the Capitol Square
Wednesdays, April 23 thru November 5, 8:30-1:45
In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.
For details visit www.dcfm.org
Dane County Holiday Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, November 15, November 23, December 6 (open until 1:00), December 13 and December 20, 7:30-noon
At the Monona Terrace
The Holiday Dane County Farmer’s Market is located in the majestic Monona Terrace. This bustling market features more than 60 vendors and is your one-stop shop for all of your local food needs for the holidays!
For details visit www.dcfm.org
NOVEMBER IN THE GARDEN-–A checklist of things to do this month.
___Visit Olbrich, Rotary or Allen Centennial Gardens and note plants of fall interest for
spring planting and best selection.
___Put up all bird feeders and fill daily as needed. Begin feeding raw suet.
___Make water available to the birds. Begin using a de-icer as needed.
___Dig new beds now! It’s easier now than in spring when super-busy.
___Continue planting spring bulbs till the ground freezes.
___Plant bulbs for forcing and put in a cool location for 10-12 weeks.
___Stop feeding houseplants and cut back on watering.
___Continue planting deciduous shrubs and trees until the ground freezes.
___Clean up stalks and leaves of annuals and vegetables, preventing viruses and pests
for next year’s garden.
___Continue harvesting brussels sprouts, kale, greens and root crops.
___Cut perennials back to 4-6″, leaving those for winter interest.
___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.
___Mow the lawn at shortest setting for last mowing of the season.
___Ready lawnmower and tiller for winter. Prep the snowblower.
___Keep gutters clear of leaves and debris.
___Clean empty pots and containers for winter storage.
___Purchase marsh hay and rose protection. Wait till the ground freezes to apply.
___Wrap trunks of susceptible trees to protect from rodents.
___Visit Klein’s—The poinsettias are just about ready. Look for end of the season savings on all remaining spring bulbs.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.comor 860/567-0838
For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
IN NOVEMBER:
—Our employees prep the store inside and out for the upcoming holidays.
—Wreaths, roping and pine boughs arrive mid-month from northern Wisconsin.
—Most plant material and supplies have been ordered for the 2026 growing season. We order early to ensure you best selection in spring.
PERMANENT FEATURES–
KLEIN’S MONTHLY NEWSLETTER
Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the top of our home page @ kleinsfloral.com . We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.
THE MAD GARDENER–“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.
We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
KLEIN’S ‘HOUSEPLANT HELP’
You can contact Klein’s in-house indoor plant experts by emailing to houseplanthelp@kleinsfloral.com for sound information and advice regarding indoor tropicals, succulents, blooming plants and so much more.
For many years, customers’ indoor plant questions have been directed to Klein’s Mad Gardener. Now you have the opportunity to contact our indoor plant experts directly. We’ve posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
We reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
TO WRITE A REVIEW OF KLEIN’S, PLEASE LINK TO
Yelp, Google Reviews or Facebook Reviews
Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.
Join Klein’s on Twitterwhere we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.
SENIOR CITIZEN DISCOUNT
We offer a 5% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.
DELIVERY INFO
Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, Deerfield, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus or Stoughton.
Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $9.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $10.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $11.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.
A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.
We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.
Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.
There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.
Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, Deerfield, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.
We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.
Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.
During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.
It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.
DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor. Phone: 608/244-5661.
Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com
Floral Manager—Sarah Somson floral@kleinsfloral.com
Houseplant Buyer, Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com
Purchasing—Megan Johnson megan@kleinsfloral.com
Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com
RELATED RESOURCES AND WEB SITES
University of Wisconsin Extension
1 Fen Oak Ct. #138
Madison, WI 53718
608/224-3700
Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic
Dept. of Plant Pathology
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
http://www.plantpath.wisc.edu/index.php
Insect Diagnostic Lab
240 Russell Labs
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
http://www.entomology.wisc.edu/
U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab
8452 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-4364
American Horticultural Society
Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)
also http://www.mailordergardening.com/
Invasive Species
http://www.invasiveplants.net/
Community Groundworks
3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4
Madison, WI 53704
608/240-0409
http://www.communitygroundworks.org
Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)
Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program
Department of Horticulture
1575 Linden Drive
University of Wisconsin – Madison
Madison, WI 53706
608/265-4504
The Wisconsin Gardener
Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
608/262-8406
http://www.allencentennialgardens.org/
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/246-4550
Rotary Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr.
Janesville, WI 53545
608/752-3885
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888
University of Wisconsin-West Madison
Agricultural Research Center
8502 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-2257
http://www.cals.wisc.edu/westmad/
PLANTS POISONOUS TO CHILDREN:
Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.
•Bird of paradise
•Bull nettle
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Crocus
•Daffodil
•Deadly nightshade
•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
•Foxglove
•Glory lily
•Hemlock
•Holly berry
•Indian tobacco
•Iris
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Lily of the valley
•Marijuana
•Mescal bean
•Mexicantes
•Mistletoe
•Morning glory
•Mountain laurel
•Night-blooming jasmine
•Nutmeg
•Oleander
•Philodendron
•Poison ivy
•Poison sumac
•Pokeweed
•Poppy
•Potato
•Privet
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Water hemlock
•Wisteria
PLANTS POISONOUS TO PETS:
Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/
•Aconite
•Apple
•Arrowgrasses
•Autumn Crocus
•Azaleas
•Baneberry
•Bird-of-Paradise
•Black locust
•Bloodroot
•Box
•Buckeye
•Buttercup
•Caladium
•Carolina jessamine
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Chockcherries
•Christmas berry
•Christmas Rose
•Common privet
•Corn cockle
•Cowbane
•Cow cockle
•Cowsliprb
•Daffodil
•Daphne
•Day lily
•Delphinium (Larkspur)
•Dumbcane
•Dutchman’s breeches
•Easter lily
•Elderberry
•Elephant’s ear
•English Ivy
•European Bittersweet
•Field peppergrass
•Foxglove
•Holly
•Horsechestnut
•Horse nettle
•Hyacinth
•Iris
•Jack-in-the-pulpit
•Jerusalem Cherry
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Laurels
•Lily of the valley
•Lupines
•Mayapple
•Milk vetch
•Mistletoe
•Monkshood
•Morning glory
•Mustards
•Narcissus
•Nicotiana
•Nightshade
•Oaks
•Oleander
•Philodendrons
•Pokeweed
•Poinsettia
•Poison hemlock
•Potato
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Rosary pea
•Sago palm
•Skunk cabbage
•Smartweeds
•Snow-on-the-mountain
•Sorghum
•Star of Bethlehem
•Wild black cherry
•Wild radish
•Wisteria
•Yellow jessamine
•Yew