‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—MARCH 2015
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
3758 E. Washington Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/244-5661 or info@kleinsfloral.com
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS:
The 2015 CSA Open House is March 8 at Monona Terrace
Our ‘Mad Gardener’ Is Ready for Your Questions
Tips for Long-lasting Cut Flowers
Native Wisconsin Wildflowers for Your Garden
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
A Seed Starting Basics for Maximum Success
You Asked the Mad Gardener About Disappointing Pentas
Plant of the Month: Fittonia
Organic Houseplant Care
Our Very Favorite Pasta and Pizza Sauce Recipes
Product Spotlight: Ups-a-Daisy® Planter Inserts
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—Seed Starting Best-ofs
–The Truth about Grow Lights
–The Ramp-up to Spring Begins
–The Importance of Sterilizing Equipment
March in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
Join Klein’s Blooming Plant or Fresh Flower Club
Delivery Information
Related Resources and Websites
Plants Harmful to Kids and Pets
FOR NEIGHBORHOOD EVENTS OR GARDEN TOURS that you would like posted on our web site or in our monthly newsletters, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com or Sue at sue@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Our readership is ever-growing so this is a great opportunity for free advertising. Events must be garden related and must take place in the immediate Madison vicinity.
THE MAD GARDENER
“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link to this e-mail address on our home page for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s. The Mad Gardener hopes to hear from you soon!
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
Please note that our Mad Gardener is not only an expert gardener, but can answer all of your indoor plant questions as well.
PLEASE NOTE:
We would like to thank all of you for making the Wisconsin Public Television Garden Expo at the Alliant Energy a great success for us at Klein’s this past February. Your feedback and support were above and beyond. Attendees commented often that they appreciated the burst of spring we brought to the expo with our spring blooming plants and fresh herbs.
We also welcome all of you who newly subscribed to our monthly newsletter at the show. The Garden Expo is Klein’s biggest gardening event of the year. We enjoy talking with all of you and sharing our love of gardening with you.
Thanks again! The Staff at Klein’s
MARCH STORE HOURS:
Monday thru Friday : 8:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
March 5–Full Moon
March 8–Daylight Saving Time Begins.
March 17–St. Patrick’s Day. From shamrocks to green carnations–we have it!
March 20–First Day of Spring!!!! It’s still too early to plant, but you’ll notice spring bulbs peeking through the cold soil, trees buds bulging and maybe even that first robin. Keep in mind that Madison’s average last frost date is May 10 so there’s usually still lots of cold and snow to come.
March 29—Palm Sunday
April 1–April Fool’s Day
April 3–Good Friday
April 4–Passover begins
April 5–Easter Sunday, Klein’s will be open 10:00-4:00.
‘THE FLOWER SHOPPE’:
You’ve just received a lovely bouquet of fresh flowers for your birthday, as a thank you, a new birth or maybe just because. Inherently some flowers last longer than others. Long-stemmed roses, on the one hand, might last only a few days, whereas carnations can sometimes last up to two weeks. The following comes from our friends at FTD @ www.ftd.com.
CARE TIPS FOR SPECIFIC FLOWERS:
CALLA LILIES
The picture of elegance, this unique form of the flower can bloom in a standard or miniature size, as well as, a rich variety of colors. Calla Lily’s should be handled delicately as the bloom tends to bruise easily. Also, once this bloom is cut, it will no longer unfold, therefore, the best and more costly Calla Lily is one that is at the peak of its blossoming. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: White, Yellow, Plum, Lavender, Pink, Green, Peach, and Orange.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS
Chrysanthemums bloom in many forms, including: daisy-like, pompons, or buttons. Blossoming in a wide array of colors and sizes, these flowers are popular for their long life span and ability to easily lend their textures and beauty to a mixed bouquet, yet make an exceptional bouquet on their own. Average life span: 7-8 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Green, Yellow, Lavender, also, rich Fall colors including Burgundy, Bronze and Butterscotch, as well as, plenty of bicolored varieties.
DAFFODILS
Daffodils are an extremely popular and well-loved flower but they release a substance harmful to other flowers. Because of this they are best kept to themselves when used in arrangements. If they are included in a mixed bouquet, separate the daffodils and soak separately overnight and then introduce them back into your arrangement. Average life span: 5 days. Seasonality: December — April. Color Availability: Yellow, White.
GERBERA DAISIES
Available in a bright variety of hues, these beautiful and cheerful flowers are known to be very heavy water drinkers with sensitivity to fluoride. With this in mind you may want to use a purified water source for your bouquet. Your bouquet may arrive with a straw around each stem. It is best to leave this straw on while for the first 4-5 hours while initially hydrating to create a straighter stem. Average life span: 5 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Red, Yellow, Orange, Pink, Peach, Fuchsia and some bicolored varieties.
HYDRANGEAS
Hydrangeas are known for their beautiful cloud-like blooms and appeal in both mixed bouquets and on their own. They are quite emotional though, and need constant hydration, as the blooms will immediately wilt when without a water supply. They are usually delivered with a water pack around the bottom of the stem to help with hydration during shipping, but will need to be thoroughly hydrated as soon as they arrive. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: White, Light Blue, Violet, Pink.
IRISES
Irises come in many forms, shapes, colors and sizes, though the most popular colors are a deep purple or yellow. The iris usually arrives in bud stage, but after 1-2 days of hydration the bloom will unfurl and open gracefully creating a grand bouquet fit for royalty. Average life span: 6 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – Blue, Yellow, White, Pink, Purple, Brown, Red, and Black.
GLADIOLUS
Most known for their sword-like shape and wide array of color, gladioli create a dramatic bouquet of height and beauty. Average life span: 7-8 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Red, Orange, Pink, Fuchsia, and Lavender.
LILIES
These fragrant flowers are a symbol of purity and grace accentuated with each flower-filled stem. There are three main types of lilies: Asiatic, Oriental or LA Hybrids. Asiatic Lilies tend to have a smaller bloom, but come in a vast array of colors. Oriental Lilies have a large bloom and a stronger fragrance and tend to last longer than the other varieties. LA Hybrid Lilies have a medium sized bloom and tend to last a little longer than an Asiatic Lily. Most lilies arrive with 3-5 blooms per stem, making them a dramatic and impressive bouquet. As the blooms open, it is best to remove the pollen from anthers when the blooms open with a tissue and discard as it can stain clothing. In the event the pollen does get on any fabric try to remove it with cellophane tape, never with water, which would set the stain. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Pink, Yellow, Orange, Burgundy, and plenty of bicolored varieties.
ORCHIDS
These blooms bring an exotic elegance to any bouquet with numerous flowers bursting from each stem. Known for their longevity, orchids are a beautiful way to express your sentiments. Average life span: 7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Purple, White, Pink, Fuchsia, Orange, Jade, and Burgundy.
PERUVIAN LILIES (ALSTROEMARIA)
These bright multicolored flowers contribute to a lush and full bouquet. They are known for their long-lasting blooms, but they tend to dehydrate easily. If wilting, check the water level and, once hydration levels are maintained, they will perk up within the next 8-12 hours. Average life span: 7-8 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – Pink, Purple, White, Yellow, Red, and plenty of bicolored varieties.
ROSES
Roses are possibly the most recognizable and beloved flowers most known for their soft scent and vast array of colors and varieties. These flowers may arrive with guard petals surrounding the outside of the bloom. These petals were left on to protect the bloom during shipment and should be removed to increase the beauty of your bouquet. Also, if a rose wilts and becomes limp, remove it from the vase and re-cut the stem under water. Place the flower into warm water with dissolved flower food until the bloom becomes firm. The flower can then be included once again within the bouquet. Remember, roses are thirsty flowers. Check the vase daily to replenish absorbed water. Average life span: 7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Red, White, Pink, Fuchsia, Lavender, Jade, Cream, Peach, Yellow, Orange, Burgundy, and plenty of bicolored varieties.
SUNFLOWERS
A favorite flower for many, the sunflower brings a cheerful disposition to any bouquet. Sunflowers tend to be a thirsty flower, so it is best to be vigilant of the water level in your vase to insure a longer life for you bouquet. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Yellow with brown center and some dyed varieties.
TULIPS
Tulips are one of the most popular flowers of all time and come in variety of colors, heights, and flower shapes. Be aware that these flowers can grow almost an inch daily even when cut and naturally bend towards the light. Your tulip bouquet may have a natural curve to the stems, leaning gracefully off the lip of the vase. When your tulips first arrive it is best to keep them in the protective wrap while hydrating for the first 4-5 hours to create a straighter stem. Average life span: 5 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – Red, White, Pink, Fuchsia, Purple, Cream, Orange, Peach, Yellow and plenty of bicolored varieties.
YOU ASKED THE MAD GARDENER . . .
I bought some pentas from Klein’s last year and put them in full sun in well drained soil, but they just didn’t want to take off and grow to the size on the label. What could I be doing wrong? Thank you, Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Pentas is a great annual for the summer garden. That said; last summer was not the perfect summer for pentas. They grow best when summers are hot and humid and last summer was anything but; with our first 90 degree day on July 22 and not another until August 22 (our only two 90 degree days!). We even had record low temps in mid-July (48 & 49 on July 16 & 17). Plants do all of their growing during the night. The cool nighttime temps held most tropicals back a bit.
In addition, here in the north, with our short summers, the tall pentas rarely attain the height listed on the plant tag when planted in beds. They spend the first part of the summer rooting out before they take off once the days and nights heat up in early July. By mid-August the days are shortening and the nights are starting to cool down. That’s just one month of optimum growth conditions.
I’m not sure which varieties you purchased. Graffiti is a seed/bedding variety that grows to just 10-12″ and comes in seven colors.
The taller varieties we carried last year were Pink Profusion, Ruby Glow, Starburst and Starcluster (in 3 colors). All are listed at up to 2′ tall. I grow my tall varieties in containers that are placed along the driveway on the south side of my house. In containers, and in a very warm location, mine usually reach their full 2′ by summer’s end. The site is in full sun, protected and gets the added heat off the paved driveway. Once established, pentas needs to be kept well-watered. I also fertilize all of my annuals on a rigid two week cycle.
I don’t want to discourage you from growing pentas! They are a fantastic summer annual and one of the very best butterfly and hummingbird magnets. If you can try them in pots or raised beds, give that a try next summer and hope for lots of sun, heat and humidity. They bloom non-stop in the right conditions and are a great alternative to geraniums (which have a similar growth habit and presentation).
Thanks for your question,
Klein’s Mad Gardener
madgardener@kleinsfloral.com
DID YOU KNOW. . .
. . . that many of Wisconsin’s most cherished wildflowers are equally treasured in the mixed perennial border or cottage garden?
The words ‘wildflower’ and ‘weed’ are by all means not synonymous and many, many of our most lovely roadside ‘weeds’ make the perfect addition to any low maintenance garden. By definition, most Wisconsin wildflowers are inherently low maintenance in the sheer fact they are meant to be here. They tolerate our cold winters, crazy seesaw springs and hot and humid (and sometimes very dry) summers. They thrive where many domesticated species whither under those same conditions. Many wildflowers are magnets for beneficial insects, butterflies and birds. Though many wildflowers can become ‘aggressive’ in the garden, they are at least not ‘invasive’. While so many of our garden perennials have come from other parts of the world and are crowding out or even destroying our native species, Wisconsin’s wildflowers are meant to be here by design and perhaps will find a home in your garden–by design.
The following is a list of common and readily available perennial Wisconsin wildflowers available at most well-stocked garden centers. While we encourage the use of Wisconsin wildflowers in the garden, PLEASE do not dig up wild plants. Though beautiful to look at, many Wisconsin wildflowers are becoming increasingly rare. Wildflowers available at garden centers have been propagated from domesticated stock and are not harvested in the wild.
Agastache foeniculum (Giant Blue Hyssop)
Allium cernuum (Nodding Wild Onion)
Allium stellatum (Prairie Onion)
Amorpha canescens (Lead Plant)
Anemone canadensis (Canada Anemone)
Aquilegia canadensis (Columbine)
Arisaema triphyllum (Jack-in-the-Pulpit)
Asarum canadense (Wild Ginger)
Asclepias incarnata (Swamp Milkweed)
Asclepias syriaca (Common Milkweed)
Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
Aster divaricatus (White Wood Aster)
Aster novae-angliae (New England Aster)
Aster oblongifolius (Aromatic Aster)
Baptisia australis (False Indigo)
Caltha palustris (Marsh Marigold)
Campanula glomerata (Clustered Bellflower)
Campanula rotundifolia (Harebell)
Echinacea angustifolia (Purple Coneflower)
Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower)
Eupatorium maculatum (Joe-pye Weed)
Eupatorium purpureum (Sweet Joe-pye Weed)
Fragaria virginiana (Wild Strawberry)
Geranium maculatum (Wild Geranium)
Helenium autumnale (Sneezeweed)
Heliopsis helianthoides (False Sunflower)
Iris pseudacorus (Yellow Flag Iris)
Iris versicolor (Blue Flag Iris)
Liatris aspera (Rough Blazing Star)
Liatris ligulistylis (Meadow Blazing Star)
Liatris pycnostachya (Purple Blazing Star)
Lilium superbum (Turk’s-cap Lily)
Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower)
Lobelia siphilitica (Blue Cardinal Flower)
Lupinus perennis (Wild Lupine)
Mertensia virginica (Virginia Bluebell)
Monarda fistulosa (Wild Bee Balm)
Optunia humifusa (Prickly Pear Cactus)
Petalostemum (Dalea) purpureum (Prairie Clover)
Phlox divaricata (Wild Blue Phlox)
Podophyllum peltatum (Mayapple)
Polemonium reptans (Creeping Jacob’s Ladder)
Ratibida pinnata (Yellow Coneflower)
Rudbeckia hirta (Black-eyed Susan)
Rudbeckia laciniata (Green-headed Coneflower)
Rudbeckia triloba (Thin-leaved Coneflower)
Sanguinaria canadensis (Bloodroot)
Silphium laciniatum (Compass Plant)
Silphium perfoliatum (Cup Plant)
Solidago canadensis (Canada Goldenrod)
Solidago rigida (Stiff Goldenrod)
Tradescantia occidentalis (Spiderwort)
Tradescantia ohiensis (Ohio Spiderwort)
Trillium grandiflorum (Large-flowered Trillium)
Verbena hastata (Blue Vervain)
Vernonia fasciculata (Ironweed)
Veronicastrum virginicum (Culver’s Root)
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach.
February is one of the craziest months for us here at Klein’s. With Garden Expo at the Alliant Energy Center and Valentine’s Day coinciding this year we were pushed to the limit with bare bones staffing for both events. Therefore, I decided to take a long and much needed vacation before spring planting ramps up in the greenhouses.
The following are a few tips and observations from years past. With indoor seed starting just getting under way, I thought I’d share some personal pointers in this month’s newsletter.
ENTRY: NOVEMBER 5, 2009 (The Truth about Grow Lights)
A customer came into Klein’s today asking about grow lights. I asked them what their intent was in using them—whether they were planning on using artificial light for the short term or actually planning on raising plants under them for the long haul (like African violets). As suspected, they were just wanting to overwinter a few treasured annuals in their basement.
Grow lights are available at most garden centers and all home improvement stores. They benefit plants by giving them the full spectrum of light needed to thrive–not just the blue and violet waves for photosynthesis and growth, but also the red and yellow waves for best flower production and, therefore, reproduction.
But unless a plant’s entire life is to be spent under artificial lights, a grow light is entirely unnecessary. Plain fluorescent lights are completely adequate for most gardeners’ needs, i.e. overwintering plants or cuttings and seed starting. Plain fluorescent lights not only supply the parts of the light spectrum needed for survival, but do so less expensively. One two foot grow light can cost up to four times more than the same sized plain fluorescent light. The key to success is to keep your plants as close to the light source as possible.
In my own basement I currently have 30 four foot fluorescent tubes giving light to my hundreds of overwintered cuttings and other assorted plants. Later in winter, I’ll move some of these plants upstairs to sunlight as my seed starting begins and the basement space is needed. These same 30 tubes are then used to nurture my hundreds of annual and vegetable seedlings for the garden. Imagine my savings by using simple fluorescent tubes over the unnecessary grow lights and with no discernible detriment to the plants’ health. My light fixtures are connected to timers that give the plants 13 hours of light each day. For some of my plants, this is their only source of light for the entire winter (October-May).
ENTRY: FEBRUARY 28, 2009 (The Ramp-up to Spring Begins)
This is one of my biggest indoor gardening weekends of the entire year. I use March 1 as a key date for many of my indoor gardening tasks.
First and foremost, this is my first big seed starting weekend in my basement grow room. I’ve already started some seeds, but it’s during March that seed starting swings into high gear. Plants that need to be started about now include petunias, dianthus, snapdragons, browallia, cuphea, portulaca and a few other minor players.
After the seeds germinate on my propagation heating mat I move them to the top shelf of my grow rack until they are ready to be transplanted into cell packs or pots. I use an old shower curtain draped over the rack to retain any heat given off by the light fixtures. In this basement environment I try to use all heat that might otherwise be wasted.
Once my seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, I carefully transplant them into cell packs and pots (size determined by plant vigor and how the plants are used in the garden). It’s best to transplant seedlings as soon as they can be handled. The smaller the seedling, the less shock from transplanting. I choose to transplant my seedlings rather than planting them directly in their final pots and cell packs so I can choose only healthiest and most vigorous plants, ensuring greater success in the garden.
The second major task of the weekend is to prune, trim and clean up all the geranium, coleus, salvia and assorted cuttings I’ve been overwintering. This will be their final pinching before they go into the garden in May. Any later than this and I lose a few weeks of valuable bloom time in our short summers. I also trim and shape my potted geraniums and other plants that will be spending the summer outdoors. Hibiscus is the exception. I pruned them in the fall rather than in the spring–again as not to lose bloom time.
Thirdly, I move all remaining dormant bulbs and plants from the cool root cellar to the warmer parts of the basement. I do this to give them a good start before I put them outside. My collection includes cannas, brugmansias, pineapple lilies, callas, pansy orchids (Achimenes), dahlias, begonias and a few odds and ends. By the time they move outside in May, they’re already growing actively and sometimes nearly ready to bloom.
ENTRY: JANUARY 24, 2009 (The Importance of Sterilizing Equipment)
I spent the entire day today cleaning my seed starting room and sterilizing all seed starting equipment. My seed starting room is the old workshop in my home’s basement. Because it was a workshop, I’m lucky to have a sizable workbench, lots of cabinet and shelf space and a ton of electrical outlets for my heating mats and banks of florescent fixtures. The seed starting room also doubles as my office with a desk, file cabinet, my computer and a stereo. The room acts as a sanctuary on cold winter days. Sometimes I’ll spend the entire day in my private jungle.
Before I start this year’s batch of seeds I first ready the room by thoroughly sweeping and washing everything down with warm soapy water. Next, I wipe down my seed starting racks and and work surfaces with a 1:16 solution of bleach and water, allowing the surfaces to remain wet for some minutes. This allows the bleach to do its job in killing all pathogens (viruses, bacteria, fungi, etc.) from the previous season. I also soak all trays, inserts, humidity domes and tools in the same bleach mixture in the laundry sink.
I’ve learned from past experience that skipping the sterilizing step can mean trouble. A few years back I was short on time and decided to go ahead and plant my pepper seeds without sterilizing the trays first. I usually plant about a dozen varieties of both edible and ornamental peppers. The seeds germinated as usual and for the first few days everything seemed fine. Then suddenly, after about a week, my seemingly healthy seedlings toppled over. It started in one area of the tray and spread through the seedlings like wildfire and within 2 days my entire flat of seedlings was no more. My seedlings experienced ‘damping off’–a fungal disease usually found in contaminated soil and spread in unfavorable growing conditions. I started over after first sterilizing the trays and seed racks.
My next batch of pepper seedlings turned out perfectly, proving to me the problem was not the seed, the soil or the growing conditions (I’ve always started my seeds in that room). The fact is that I had skipped that one vital step with disastrous results. Now I set aside enough time to go through my preparation checklist thoroughly and I haven’t had a problem since!
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
Pasta and pizza are favorites of young and old alike. Tired of Prego or Ragu jarred sauces? Check out these from the Klein’s family that are sure to please all.
BOLOGNESE SAUCE FOR PASTA–This easy sauce makes enough for two meals and freezes well. From the October 2005 issue of ‘Everyday Food’ magazine.
1 TBS. olive oil
2 cups finely chopped onion
3 shredded carrots (1 cup)
6 cloves minced garlic
1 lb. ground beef
1 lb. ground pork (use 2 lbs. ground beef if pork unavailable)
1/4 cup tomato paste
coarse salt and ground pepper
1 cup dry white wine
1 x 28 oz. can tomato puree
1 cup milk
Grated parmesan
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over high heat. Add the onions, carrots and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the beef and the pork and cook, breaking up, until no longer pink. Stir in the tomato paste and cook 1 minute. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the wine and tomato puree and bring to a simmer. Simmer, part covered, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour until thickened. Add the milk and simmer 15 minutes. Reseason as desired. Serve over hot pasta with parmesan.
GARLIC & OIL SAUCE FOR PASTA–Long a standard in the family of one of Klein’s staff members. This easy recipe is from Quick and Easy Pasta Recipes by Coleen and Bob Simmons. For extra flavor, add onions, mushrooms or green beans, sautéed in butter.
16 oz. dry pasta
1/2 cup fruity olive oil
4-6 cloves chopped garlic
1 tsp. dried basil
salt and pepper to taste
While the pasta is cooking, warm the oil in a saucepan. When it is quite warm, remove the saucepan from the heat and add the remaining ingredients. The oil should not be so hot as to brown the garlic. Let the sauce steep while the pasta continues to cook. Toss the sauce with the hot, drained pasta. Serve immediately. Serves 8.
PARSLEY PASTA SAUCE–A rich and flavorful sauce that is similar to a creamy pesto. Another great recipe from From Asparagus to Zucchini: A Guide to Farm-Fresh Seasonal Produce.
1 lb cooked pasta
1 cup+ packed chopped parsley
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tsp. dried basil
1 1/2 tsp. dried marjoram
1 tsp. dried oregano
1/2 tsp. salt
2 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp. pepper
1 cup sour cream
1/4 cup grated parmesan
Sunflower seeds
While cooking the pasta, prep the sauce. In a processor, process the parsley, oil, basil, marjoram, oregano, salt, garlic and pepper until the parsley is finely chopped. Add the sour cream and the parmesan and puree. Place the mix in a saucepan and heat until it is almost, but not quite boiling. Serve over hot pasta and sprinkle with sunflower seeds.
Serves 8.
RICK’S MARINARA SAUCE–A sweet marinara sauce the kids will love. This simple recipe appeared in our very first newsletter from December 2006.
1 large onion, chopped
1 sweet bell pepper, chopped
1 cup chopped carrot
3 Tbs. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 x 28 oz. can whole tomatoes with juice
1 x 6 oz. can tomato paste
2 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. dried oregano, crushed
2 tsp. dried basil, or 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1/4 tsp. salt
a dash of black pepper
a dash of ground cayenne, or to taste
1/2 cup or more dry red wine (Port creates a sweeter sauce)
1 tsp. crushed fennel seed, optional
Cook onion, bell pepper, garlic and carrot in hot oil over medium heat till tender but not browned. Add tomatoes, paste, sugar and herbs and spices. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 35-45, adding the red wine for desired consistency and taste. (The alcohol boils off so OK for the kids) Add salt to taste. Makes enough sauce for 2 x 16 oz. packages of pasta.
EASY HOMEMADE PIZZA SAUCE–This recipe makes enough for two 12” pizzas. Double the recipe and freeze half for down the road. This recipe appeared in the September 2006 issue of Cooks Illustrated magazine.
Oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 clove minced garlic
1/4 cup white wine
2 TBS. tomato paste
1 tsp. dried oregano
1/8 tsp. pepper
1 x 14.5 oz. can crushed tomatoes
1 tsp. dried basil
1/2 tsp. balsamic vinegar
Heat the oil in a saucepan and sauté the onion on medium-high heat until tender. Add the garlic and sauté 30 seconds. Stir in the wine and cook 30 seconds. Add the paste, oregano, pepper, tomatoes and basil. Reduce the heat and simmer 20 minutes or more until thick. Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar. Makes 1 1/3 cups.
NATURAL NEWS–
Organic Houseplant Care
—Grow potted plants inside with the same safe, effective techniques you use in your garden.
Excerpted from Rodale’s Successful Organic Gardening: Houseplants and Container Gardens.
Successful organic gardeners know that if you choose the right plants for your conditions, plant them in healthy soil, give them fertilizer and water judiciously, and react sensibly to problems, your garden will be beautiful, productive, and undemanding. The same holds true of houseplants. Here’s what you need to know to care for potted plants the right way—that is, organically.
The Right Light
Begin by observing the places where you want to put houseplants. Knowing how much light each spot gets will help you determine the right plants for that spot. “High” light is found directly in front of most south-facing windows, and large unobstructed east or west windows. Smaller unobstructed east or west windows yield “medium” light. North windows and those that are shaded offer only “low” light. Your plants will get only low light if they are more than a couple of feet from a window facing in any direction.
Buying Smart
Carefully read plant tags before you buy to identify suitable choices for each spot in your home. As a rule of thumb, flowering plants require high light, while many foliage plants thrive in low light.
Shop around for houseplants—prices and quality can vary widely. Garden centers, home centers, florists and even supermarkets sell potted plants. When you find a plant you want, choose a balanced, evenly shaped specimen. If you’ve decided on a flowering houseplant, look for one that has plenty of buds, with just a few flowers beginning to open.
Finally, inspect each plant thoroughly to be sure it does not have disease or pest problems. Gently tug on the leaves to be sure they don’t pull off too easily—a sign of an unhealthy plant.
Water Wisely
Houseplants suffer as much from overwatering as they do from underwatering. To determine if your plants need water, push your finger about an inch or so into the pot’s soil. If the soil feels damp, check again in a few days. When the top layer of soil is dry, water the plant.
Bear in mind that plants growing in clay pots dry out faster than those in plastic pots. Also, plants growing in “high” light need water more frequently those in “low” light. And, plants use much more water during the long, warm days of summer when they are actively growing than in the short and cool days of winter.
When you do water houseplants, give them a thorough soaking so that a little water runs out of the pot’s drainage hole and into the saucer. This flow of water through the soil is beneficial because it pushes out used air and allows fresh air to move into the spaces between soil particles. Plants’ roots need air as well as water.
If water goes straight through the pot and out the bottom, the potting soil has become so dry that it has contracted and left space where the water can run through. To water dried-out soil, set the entire pot in a bowl or sink full of water to the pot’s rim and let the soil slowly absorb the water. After the soil is wet, let it drain and then return it to its saucer.
Feed Right
The temptation to overfeed is almost is strong as the urge to overwater. But overfeeding makes the plant weak and susceptible to disease. As with water, plants that get a lot of light need more fertilizer than those in dimmer sites. And unless a plant is actively growing in winter, don’t feed it all during the dormant season.
What should you use to fertilize houseplants? Not the blue crystals you mix in water—they’re a synthetic that stimulate unhealthy growth. Instead, use a weak dilution of fish and seaweed fertilizer such as Sea Rich from Gardens Alive! in convenient liquid form.
Balanced fertilizers—that is, with an equal ratio of the three main nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K)—are best for houseplants. Frequent weak applications of fertilizer are better than infrequent heavy applications for houseplants.
Potting and Repotting
Eventually, all houseplants need to be repotted either because they’ve grown too big for their pots or because they need to move into fresh potting mix. Generally, you should repot your plants about once every other year. Do it in the spring or summer when the plants are actively growing.
When you remove the plant from its pot, shake away as much of the old soil from the roots as possible. If the plant’s rootball is so dense and tangled that the old soil won’t shake loose, use a large knife to slice away an inch or two of the rootball on all sides and the bottom. Add fresh soil to the bottom of the pot, then set the root-trimmed plant back in and add fresh soil in the space you created around the sides.
You can use any commercial potting soil for most houseplants (avoid those that have fertilizer blended in). Your houseplants will be healthier and grow much better if you mix compost in with the potting mix. Be aware that certain plants prefer special soil mixes. Cactuses, for example, need extra sand for great drainage. Orchids generally prefer a very loose, bark-based mix. Again, check plant tags for any special needs the plant may have.
Pest and Disease Control
Even well cared-for houseplants occasionally suffer a pest infestation. Here are six common houseplant pests and how to control them without resorting to toxic treatments.
Aphids: These small white, green, black, brown or orange pests are often found in clusters on tip growth and flower buds. A strong spray of water is usually enough to dislodge them—give an infested plant a good shower in your tub or outside with the hose.
Mealybugs: If you see tiny tufts of white cotton, usually clustered in sheltered areas of stems or on the underside of leaves, your plant has mealybugs. To control them, apply rubbing alcohol to individual mealybugs (the white tufts) using a cotton swab.
Mites: About the size of a grain of salt, mites are hard to see, but the damage they do is not. Look for mottled or stippled leaves, deformed flowers and very fine webbing over the damaged area. A strong spray of water will usually eliminate them—just be sure to spray both the tops and bottoms of leaves.
Scales: You won’t spot scales easily as they blend in well against stems and leaves. The first clue of a scale outbreak is often sticky specks on a plant’s leaves or the tabletop. Check the leaves and stems directly above the sticky area for bumps that can be rubbed off. Rub off scales by hand—if there are too many, find a chance to put the plant outside where the scales’ natural enemies can get rid of them for you.
Whiteflies: If you notice white specks flying up when you brush against a plant, whiteflies have set up camp. To control them safely, get insecticidal soap and spray it on the leaves, particularly on the underside (try the spray on a few leaves before spraying the whole plant to be sure it is not sensitive to the soap).
Cats: Some cats like to dig in potted plants; others use them for litter boxes. If your cats won’t stay away from your houseplants, crush some rue leaves and spread them on top of the soil—the scent is very unpleasant to cats.
Source: www.organicgardening.com
MARCH’S PLANT OF THE MONTH:
FITTONIA
Fittonia is a genus of plants native to the tropical regions of South America. These plants have adapted to live in the warm, moist environment of tropical rainforests and can be seen in abundance in the wild. They are also cultivated in some regions of the world as houseplants, arboretum specimens, and greenhouse plants. Nurseries sometimes stock Fittonia and can order seedlings by request from customers.
These plants are creepers, growing low to the ground and expanding by forming mats. The foliage is roughly oval in shape with distinctive white veins referenced by the common names of nerve plant and mosaic plant. Some species produce dark green leaves, while others grow in red, white, or purple shades. The flowers are very small and not very noticeable. People growing the plants in cultivation tend to pinch the flowers off to promote the development of stronger, larger leaves.
Fittonia is slightly hairy, although the hairs are not sharp or irritating. The plant makes an excellent groundcover, in regions where people have an environment hospitable to members of this genus. As a houseplant, it can be grown in terrariums in homes that tend to be more dry, or in open pots in a home with high humidity or a dedicated gardener who will take time to mist the plant to maintain the moisture levels it prefers.
Like other tropical rainforest plants, Fittonia benefits from warm temperatures, high humidity, and indirect light. These plants are adapted for the rich floor of the rainforest and prefer soil amended with compost and other organic materials. The soil should be rich and moist to keep the plant happy and fertilizer can be periodically added to keep the leaves healthy and large. The wet conditions needed can sometimes be conducive to the growth of mold and mildew and gardeners should remain alert to any signs of infection or disease in their plants.
Some Fittonia specimens will thrive in more variable conditions, like slightly dry offices, although they will remain small and may grow very slowly. To keep humidity levels up around the plant, people can do things like bagging it or sticking it in a large fishbowl. While these may not be aesthetically pleasing solutions to the humidity problem, they can be used to perk a straggling plant back up. Once the plant is healthier, it can be exposed to room air again and misted regularly to keep it healthy.
Source: www.wisegeek.com/what-is-fittonia.htm
AROUND TOWN:
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com or Sue at sue@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter. This is a great opportunity for free advertising.
Primula Sale
Saturday, March 7, 10:00-1:00 (8-1:00 for Olbrich Members)
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
Capture the first signs of spring with a colorful and classic primula at the Primula Sale at Olbrich Botanical Gardens. Take home a rainbow of primroses in striking purple, red, yellow, orange, and pink, all grown from seed in Olbrich’s greenhouses.
These primulas are hardy and will bloom year after year in your garden. Often one of the first flowers to bloom in spring, some primulas also bloom again in the fall when the weather becomes cool. Primulas are cool weather perennials that do best when planted in the ground. They make wonderful gifts, so purchase them for your friends and yourself!
Olbrich’s primulas are grown in fiber pots instead of hard plastic pots. The fiber pots are “compostable, not plantable,” meaning that the primulas must be taken out of the pot and planted in the ground or a container. Then the fiber pot can be added to your compost bin. All proceeds from the sale benefit the Gardens. Plants are $5.00 each.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Olbrich Garden’s Spring Show
March 7 thru March 22
Daily from 10:00-4:00
In the Olbrich Atrium
Immerse yourself in the splendor of spring!
Meander through an array of spring flowers and leave the stark winter landscape behind. Relish in the fragrance of hyacinths and admire the delicate petals of elegant tulips and the sunny hues of brilliant daffodils.
Admission: $3 for adults 13 & up, $2 for children 3-12, children 2 and under are free. Proceeds benefit Olbrich Gardens.
Select flowers from the show will be available for purchase on Monday, March 23 at 12 pm until supplies last.
Olbrich Botanical Society members are the first to glimpse the beauty of spring in this indoor exhibit of spring blooms from 8-10:00 a.m., Saturday, March 7. Enjoy the invigorating colors and scents of spring bulbs, trees, and shrubs, and then enjoy music and light refreshments in the Evjue Commons.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
2015 Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) Open House
Sunday, March 8, 1:00 – 4:00 pm
Monona Terrace
1 John Nolen Dr., Madison, Wisconsin
Bring your friends and neighbors to this FREE community event, featuring a diverse array of CSA farms, workshops, kids’ activities, music, a raffle, and tasty samples of farm-fresh foods to showcase the many benefits of CSA.
The Annual CSA Open House brings most of the CSA growers serving the Madison area right to one location. You can meet, mingle with, learn from, and sign up for your CSA shares right here at the Monona Terrace.
For event details visit www.csacoalition.org
Silent Night:
Wisconsin Bats and White-nose Syndrome
Thursday, March 12, 9:00 am – 11:30 am
Arboretum Visitor Center, 1207 Seminole Hwy.
Winter Enrichment lecture with Jennifer Redell, cave and mine specialist, conservation biologist, Bureau of Natural Heritage Conservation, Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources
The cost is $10. Please register at uwarboretum.org/events/register_1.php?id=2332
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or http://uwarboretum.org/
Annual Spring Symposium
Garden Inspirations: the Spice of Life
Saturday, March 21, 9:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.
at Rotary Botanical Gardens
Registration deadline: March 11
Price:
$85 for RBG Friends
$92 for Active Master Gardeners
$99 General Public
*Note – fee includes lunch *
Visit rotarybotanicalgardens.org/symposium-registration to register.
Join your fellow plant enthusiasts at Rotary Botanical Gardens for a jam-packed day of learning and fun! Our stellar line-up of speakers includes:
Thomas Jefferson’s Revolutionary Garden
by Peter Hatch, Monticello Garden & Grounds (retired)
A Culinary Compendium: Love and Lore of Local Food
by Kyle Cherek, Host of Wisconsin Foodie
From Bucket List to Back Yard
by Mark Dwyer, Director of Horticulture for Rotary Botanical Gardens
Questions? Contact Kris Koch, Education Coordinator at 608.752.3885, ext.17 or kris.koch@rotarygardens.org
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr., Janesville, WI
608/752-3885 or www.rotarygardens.org
Olbrich Garden’s
Spring Pansy Sale
Saturday, April 4
From 10:00-Supplies Last
Celebrate spring with a cheery pansy, panola, or viola grown in Olbrich’s own greenhouses. Pots of pansies are $6 each, with three plants per pot. Decorative containers are extra. Proceeds benefit Olbrich Botanical Gardens.
Pansies are cool weather plants that do best if planted in the ground. However, they also look great in a container, and make wonderful springtime gifts. Not only decorative, pansies are also edible and add a flash of color to dishes as a garnish. Or, try planting colorful pansies in a container with lettuce – it’s an entire salad in one pot!
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Dane County Winter Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, January 3 thru April 11, 8:00-noon
Madison Senior Center
330 W. Mifflin
For details visit www.dcfm.org
MARCH IN THE GARDEN—A checklist of things to do this month.
___Pinch back over wintered geraniums one last time. Root cuttings if needed.
___Check perennials for heaving during warm spells. Remulch as needed.
___Check for early spring bloomers like crocus, winter aconite & hellebores.
___Begin uncovering roses by month’s end.
___Continue bringing out your cooled forced bulbs for indoor enjoyment.
___Inspect stored summer bulbs like dahlias, cannas and glads for rotting.
___Check for and treat for pests on plants brought in from the garden.
___Keep birdfeeders full. Clean periodically with soap and water.
___Keep birdbaths full and clean for the return of the first robins & other arrivals.
___Repair and clean out birdhouses. Early arrivals will be here soon!
___Inventory last year’s leftover seeds before ordering or buying new ones.
___Seed starting is in full swing: petunias, tomatoes, peppers and cole crops.
___Sterilize seed starting equipment and pots with a 1:16 bleach solution.
___Shop for summer bulbs like gladiolas, lilies and dahlias.
___Remove mulch & rodent protection (chicken wire) from tulip and crocus beds
___Use the winter days to plan next summer’s garden.
___March is the month to prune most fruit trees and apply dormant oil.
___Prune late summer and fall blooming shrubs.
___Do not prune spring blooming shrubs like lilacs, forsythia or viburnum.
___Begin bringing in branches for forcing: pussy willow, forsythia, quince, etc.
___As the days lengthen and new growth occurs, increase fertilizing houseplants
___Check your garden for any plant damage from weather or rodents.
___Ready the lawn mower—just a few weeks to go.
___Visit Klein’s—the showrooms are filling up with spring annuals. Pansies, violas, calendula, cole crops & onion sets become available by month’s end.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333
For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998
For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
Note: To receive every possible seed, plant or garden supply catalog imaginable, check out Cyndi’s Catalog of Garden Catalogs @ www.gardenlist.com. Most catalogs are free and make for great winter reading!
A SEED STARTING PRIMER–
Starting your own plants from seed can be both rewarding and frustrating for the beginning gardener. From experience, it’s best to start out slow. This eliminates some of the frustration. Experience will gain you knowledge and confidence. Before starting your seeds, read the packet and get a little basic information. Some seeds are best sown directly in the garden come spring and not started indoors. It’s best to do a little research by going on-line or purchasing a good gardening book. The packets themselves will usually tell you whether to direct sow in the garden or how many weeks before our last frost date to sow indoors. Our last frost date is about May 10. Using a calendar, count back from May 10 and this will be your sow date.
One can start seeds on any sunny windowsill and in almost any container. Warmth and moisture are critical in getting most seeds to germinate. But a few pieces of basic and inexpensive equipment purchased at your garden center and/or hardware store will help you get started and make your seed starting experience a great success. Here is a shopping list:
*A heating mat–makes seeds germinate quickly and uniformly
*A few 10×20” trays without holes
*A few clear humidity domes
*A sterile seed starting mix
*A 4’ shop lamp w/ 2 fluorescent bulbs (you don’t need “gro-lights”)
or a seed growing rack if you’d like to make an investment
*A few 10×20” trays with holes
*A few sheets of empty cell packs, e.g. 4-packs or 6-packs
*A water mister
*A timer
*A soilless potting mix
All of the above items, except the timer, are available at Klein’s.
Again, following package instructions, sow the seeds, as many as you want, in a very shallow, open container, filled with moistened seed starting mix. This container can be anything from very low or cut off dairy containers to disposable food storage containers. Per package instructions, cover or don’t cover the seed. Some seeds require light for germination. Next place your seeded containers in a tray without holes, mist them till well watered and cover with a humidity dome. Place your covered tray on the plugged in heating mat under the shop light. Set your timer so the shop light is on for 13 hours (off for 11 hours).
In a few days, as your seeds begin to sprout, remove them from under the humidity dome and place in a well-lit, warm location. Keep your seeds and seedlings moist. Different seeds sprout at different rates so this can take from a few days to a few weeks. Once all your seeds have germinated, unplug your heating mat. You can now move all of your seedlings to under the shop light still set at 13 hours.
Once your seedlings have 2 sets of “real” leaves it’s time to “prick them out” (transplant them). Do this by placing a sheet of empty cell packs in a tray with holes. The holes now become necessary for proper drainage. Fill the cells with soilless potting mix and moisten well with the mister. Using a pen or pencil “dibble” a hole into each of the cells. This is where you’ll now place your seedling. Remove the seed starting mix and seedlings as a clump from their starting containers. Gently break apart this root ball, separating your seedlings. The pen or pencil will come in handy as an added tool to help separate the seedlings. Carefully place one seedling in each of the holes you put in the prepped cells. Gently firm in with your finger tips. Mist well to water thoroughly and place in a warm, well lit area. Using your shop light again makes this easy. The seedlings may seem weak and somewhat abused, but they’re very resilient and will pop back quickly. When watering, fertilize your new plants with a very dilute solution, rather than at full rate. By May 10 your flowers and vegetables should be ready to put in your garden and you can say that you did it yourself–beginning to end.
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
IN MARCH:
—Transplanting is in full swing on the transplanting line in our back greenhouses.
Employees work 8-10 hour shifts planting thousands of plugs and tiny seedlings into the cell packs you purchase in the spring. Once planted, the flats move by conveyor and then monorail into the various greenhouses, all kept at different temperatures depending on the plant.
—The greenhouses and showrooms are filling fast with thousands of hanging
and potted plants. We’re constantly moving product around, trying to make the best use of our limited space.
—By the end of the month we’re moving product outside into cold frames and
hoop houses. We move product that is very cold tolerant, such as pansies, dianthus, dusty miller, alyssum and even petunias. The cold keeps them compact and pest free and hardens them off for the transition outside. We also need the room in our ever-filling greenhouses.
—Perennial plugs and bare roots arrive and are stepped up into 3 1/2”, quart and gallon sizes. Our perennials are grown quite cold so they invest their energy into rooting out, rather than growing. Plants remain compact. Any remaining perennials from last season are moved outdoors from an unheated greenhouse.
—Geraniums are pinched and shaped for the last time by the first week of the
month. Any later pinching will delay blooming too much for spring sales.
—Retail items are arriving nonstop for unpacking and pricing, everything from
garden ornaments and pottery to pesticides and fertilizers.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Ups-A-Daisy® Planter Inserts
“Give Your Plants a Lift”
Large potted containers are notoriously hard to move and all that soil can be prohibitively expensive. Over the years, our customers have asked us if there was some way they could use less soil when planting up large containers. After all, most plants use only the top 6-8” of soil and it’s healthiest for the plants to grow in new soil each year. The old soil harbors last years pests and diseases. With large containers it can be very expensive to purchase new soil each year. Traditionally, we’ve recommended to minimally remove the top 4-6”. But the remaining soil is hard and still pest ridden. The next answer was to fill the bottom of the pot with packing peanuts–it fills space and it’s light weight. But they are non-recyclable and harmful for our landfills. Crushed aluminum cans or recyclable plastic bottles are a better answer, but they’re messy, labor intensive and often times block the drainage holes.
The answer is the Ups-a-Daisy® Planter Insert. Just drop the Ups-a Daisy into your pot, fill with soil and you’re ready to plant. The disk simply lessens the volume of the pot by raising up the bottom. Soil fills only as much of the pot as you desire. The bottom of the pot remains empty and actually improves the drainage of all containers. Pots are lighter and the plants are healthier. Klein’s offers many different sizes for all sized pots.
