‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—AUGUST 2015
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
3758 E. Washington Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/244-5661 or [email protected]
Our ‘Mad Gardener’ Is Ready for Your Questions
Klein’s 7th Annual Most Beautiful Garden Contest
A Checklist For Ordering Flowers from Klein’s
2015 Top Rated Sunscreens from Consumer Reports
You Asked the Mad Gardener About Unhappy Tomato Plants
Learn to Identify Common Plant Diseases
Plant of the Month: Mexican Sunflower (Tithonia)
Our Very Favorite Bean Salad Recipes
Product Spotlight: Systemic Insect Control from Bonide
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—from July 2015
–Thistle from Hell
–An Itchy Dilemma
—Rick’s Favorite Watering Tools
August in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
Join Klein’s Blooming Plant or Fresh Flower Club
Delivery Information
Related Resources and Websites
Plants Harmful to Kids and Pets
Think you have the Most Beautiful Garden? Perhaps all of that hard work and creativity can literally pay off by entering our Most Beautiful Garden Contest. We invite you to submit photographs along with our entry form to Klein’s via e-mail or snail mail by September 1. Winners are selected by our staff and will be announced on our website in early September. Prizes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places include gift cards for a Klein’s shopping spree. We have a separate category for container gardens.
Click Here for a PDF version of the contest entry form: kleinsfloral.com/cms-assets/documents/69449-352086.garden-contest-form.pdf
“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at [email protected]. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link to this e-mail address on our home page for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s. The Mad Gardener hopes to hear from you soon!
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
Please note that our Mad Gardener is not only an expert gardener, but can answer all of your indoor plant questions as well.
FOR NEIGHBORHOOD EVENTS OR GARDEN TOURS that you would like posted on our web site or in our monthly newsletters, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or [email protected] or Sue at [email protected]. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Our readership is ever-growing so this is a great opportunity for free advertising. Events must be garden related and must take place in the immediate Madison vicinity.
Monday thru Friday : 8:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00
Open Labor Day, Monday, September 7: 10:00-4:00
Throughout August, visit Klein’s and check out our specials on perennials, shrubs and remaining annuals. Specials and selection change weekly so give us a call for the most up-to-date information at (608) 244-5661 or toll free at 888-244-5661 or on our home page @ www.kleinsfloral.com. We pride ourselves in having the best cared for plants in even the hottest weather.
And later in August, watch for the appearance our fall mums, ornamental kales and cabbages, mixed fall containers and cool weather vegetables, including; chard, kale, lettuces and cole crops. We still have a nice selection of seeds for the fall vegetable garden, including; radishes, spinach, lettuce and SO much more!
Week of August 16–Watch for the arrival of our semi-load of indoor houseplants. Select from all shapes and sizes; from tropicals to succulents. The showrooms become a veritable jungle overnight.
August 29–Full Moon
September 7–Labor Day. Special Store Hours: 10:00-4:00
A Checklist For Ordering Flowers from Klein’s:
—When ordering floral gifts, describe the recipient’s personality type, as well as his/her favorite hobbies or colors if you know them. Klein’s designers , Sue, Kathy or Darcy, can match the floral arrangement with the recipient’s personality.
—Tell us if the gift is for a special occasion (birthday, anniversary or other personal milestone). We can offer suggestions on how to best celebrate with flowers.
—If the flowers are for decorating or entertaining, describe the environment where the arrangement will be placed so our designer can create an arrangement that complements the style and colors of of the event.
—Consider bringing in your own vase or container for an added personal touch.
—Ask us for specific colors or color themes.
—Let Klein’s know if you prefer a mixed flower arrangement or an arrangement made up of just one type of flower.
—Be ready to provide us with the necessary basic information:
Full address and phone number of the recipient
◦The delivery date
◦Your card message. See below for some common card message options.
◦Payment information
Whether sending flowers across the country or around the corner, Klein’s provides the expertise, convenience and service today’s on-the-go consumers are looking for.
Common Card Message Options:
For a Birthday—

  • Celebrating you!
  • Wishing you a year filled with the same joy you bring to others!
  • Hoping your wishes come true year after year.
  • Like a fine wine, you improve each year.
  • The day you were born is a daily celebration.
  • Wishing you a very happy birthday . . . and many more!
  • You’re not getting older, you’re getting better.
  • May today be filled with sunshine and smiles, laughter and love.
  • Love on your birthday and everyday.
  • Enjoy this gift that’s as beautiful as the birthday girl herself.

As a Get Well—

  • Hoping these flowers brighten not only your room, but your heart.
  • Loving thoughts are tucked inside this bundle of flowers!
  • Good health starts with a happy heart. Hope these flowers start the job!
  • Hope you’re back on your feet soon.
  • Hoping that you’ll bloom again soon.
  • Sending you healing thoughts and a little sunshine to brighten your day.
  • Sending you some get well cheer!
  • To brighten your day!
  • Loving relief for your aches and pains.
  • Wishing you a speedy recovery.
  • We miss you! Come back soon!
  • Hope you’re feeling better soon.

Love & Romance—

  • All my love.
  • Love and kisses.
  • You take my breath away…today and every day.
  • With you it’s Valentine’s Day 365 days a year.
  • I send a kiss inside the petals of each rose…
  • You are the love of my life.
  • You are the reason I’m alive.
  • “True love is friendship set on fire.” (French Proverb)
  • Roses are red, violets are blue, what would I do without you!?
  • Always and forever.
  • I wish there were more ways to say all that you are to me. Love always.
  • My heart is filled with love for you.
  • Flowers today. Fireworks tonight!
  • I usually tell you “I love you” two or three times a day. Today I’ll make it a dozen.
  • How sweet it is to be loved by you!
  • If actions speak louder than words, this is my way of shouting.
  • I don’t need a holiday to say I love you.
  • I’m delivering you a kiss to last all week.

For a New Baby—

  • Congratulations! May your baby be blessed, his/her road forward a blessed adventure!
  • We share in your celebration of the new life you created!
  • We welcome your dear new child to this world with love.
  • Congratulations, and enjoy the years together!
  • A little one brings so much fun!
  • Enjoy this special time!
  • Babies are special, babies are fun, congratulations on your new little one!
  • Welcome to the family!
  • I’m not an expert on babies yet, but I sure can take care of Mom!
  • Another miracle in this world. Welcome!


  • Please know our loving thoughts embrace you.
  • Please accept these flowers and hear the words we are not able to speak.
  • My thoughts and prayers are with you.
  • Thinking of you in these difficult times.
  • May the peace that comes from the memories of love shared comfort you now and in the days ahead.
  • Our hearts are filled with sorrow.
  • We’re sharing your sorrow.
  • With deepest sympathy.
  • In loving memory.
  • With heartfelt condolences.
  • Fondest remembrances.
  • May you take comfort in knowing there is one more angel above us.
  • You are in our thoughts and prayers.

Source: The Society of American Florists website @ aboutflowers.com
I have been helping my brother with his vegetable garden. His tomato plants were doing wonderfully, when all of a sudden they started to wilt. The plants are in a slightly raised bed. He has been watering them, so we don’t know what is happening to them. He said he had that problem before with trying to grow tomatoes in his yard. Do you have any ideas why the tomatoes are not doing well? Thanks, Pat
Hi Pat,
The fact you mention that he has had a problem before indicates either he has a soil borne fungal problem of some sort or there is a black walnut tree in the area (or compost/mulch contain black walnut leaves has been added to the soil).
There are many possible fungal culprits. Once the spores are in the soil, tomatoes (and their relatives, i.e. peppers, eggplant, potatoes) can not be grown in that area for a number of years. Wilts, rusts, rots and blights are all types of fungus related conditions. He would need to move his tomatoes to a new spot (rotating his crop every few years) or completely remove the soil from the raised bed and start over with fresh soil.
As for black walnut, all members of the nightshade family (including the above and petunias, flowering tobacco, datura, etc.) are susceptible to juglone toxicity; a chemical released by the tree into the soil via its roots. Debris from walnut trees is also toxic to these plants.
Watering is also a possibility. They could be overwatered if the soil is rich and water retentive; especially if the bed doesn’t have good drainage. And even though they are being watered often, they could be underwatered if they aren’t being watered deeply and thoroughly. Only you and/or he would know the watering habits.
For a definitive answer, take a plant sample to the plant pathology lab on the UW campus. For a small fee, they’ll be able to precisely identify the problem. Their address is 1630 Linden Dr. Room 183, Madison, Wisconsin 53706, 608-262-2863 (right across from Babcock ice cream!!).
Thanks for your question,
Klein’s Mad Gardener
[email protected]
. . . that not all sunscreens can live up to the claims printed on their labels?
From the WebMD website (www.webmd.com) and Consumer Reports (www.consumerreports.org/cro/index.htm).
Consumer Reports Recommends 15 of 34 Sunscreens
By Kathleen Doheny
“Consumers just need to be careful when they buy sunscreen, that they are looking at the labels and questioning the information they are reading,” says Trisha Calvo, Consumer Reports deputy editor.
Nearly a third of sunscreens tested by Consumer Reports fell short of the promised SPF protection, missing the mark by anywhere from 16% to 70%, according to the organization’s annual sunscreen report.
The report also expressed concerns about so-called “natural” sunscreens and claims of broad-spectrum protection against both UVB and UVA rays.
Fifteen of 34 sunscreens tested earned a spot on the “recommended” list.
The testing is extensive and includes having volunteers soak in water after applying sunscreen, then exposing them to ultraviolet rays to see if their skin reddens. In a statement, the Personal Care Products Council, an industry group that includes sunscreen makers, took exception to some of Consumer Reports’ findings and the testing process.
The full report is published in the July issue of Consumer Reports magazine.
2015 Top Sunscreens
The report covers sunscreens from small and large makers, and they vary in price.
The only one that earned a full 100% score is La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Melt-in Sunscreen Milk, SPF 60. At $7.20 an ounce, it’s also the priciest.
Here are the other 14 on the recommended list. (Consumer Reports calls them ”non-yucky, non-sticky, no-burn options.”)
-Vichy Capital Soleil 50 Lightweight Foaming Lotion, SPF 50, at $5.94 an ounce
-Coppertone Water Babies SPF 50, at $1.31 an ounce
-Equate Ultra Protection, SPF 50, at $.56 an ounce
-No-Ad Sport SPF 50, at $.63 an ounce
-Ocean Potion Protect & Nourish, SPF 30, at $1 an ounce
-Aveeno Protect+Hydrate, SPF 30, at $3.33 an ounce
-Up & Up Ultra Sheer, SPF 30, at $1.63 an ounce
-Banana Boat SunComfort Continuous Spray, SPF 50+, at $1.83 an ounce
-L’Oreal Quick Dry Sheer Finish (spray) 50+, at $2.44 an ounce
-Coppertone Sport High Performance AccuSpray, SPF 30, at $1.58 an ounce
-Equate Sport Continuous Spray, SPF 30, at $1.33 an ounce
-Coppertone UltraGuard, SPF 70+, at $1.38 an ounce
-Neutrogena Beach Defense Water + Sun Protection, SPF 70, at $1.62 an ounce
-Caribbean Breeze Continuous Tropical Mist (spray), SPF 70, at $2.75 an ounce
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach.
ENTRY: JULY 1, 2015 (Thistle from Hell)
Klein’s Mad Gardener received so many great emails this month that they suggested I share a couple of their relevant seasonal tips with you.
From John:
“I have a terrible problem with invasive Canadian thistle. In some areas I could just “nuke” everything, but it is growing in the flower beds, in many cases right up thru desirable plants, especially hosta. How do I eradicate this? We live in a rural area and are surrounded by it along roadsides, in farm fields, etc.”
The response:
“Growing up on a farm, I know how horrible Canadian thistles are once established. In pastures where livestock feeds, it’s oftentimes the only plant left standing and usually in huge swaths. Unlike many other thistles which spread only by seed (i.e. bull thistles, sow thistles, etc), Canadian thistle also spreads through the soil. Plants have an extensive root system. Once established, they’re hard to eradicate short of ripping up an entire bed and starting over.
Short of that, your only means of attack is Roundup (or similar). Because Roundup will kill everything (a non-selective herbicide), you’ll need to ‘paint’ it on the leaves with a paint brush. Though tedious, this is your best bet. The Roundup will cause the plants to shut down (root and all) within a number of days. A little Roundup goes a long way and be very careful not to touch desirable plants. Having said that, if even a speck of thistle survives the Roundup, it will resprout. Therefore, continued diligence with followup is important.”
NOTE: Oddly, Canadian thistle is not native to Canada! It is native to southeastern Europe and the eastern Mediterranean region. It was introduced to North America in the early 17th century. According to Wikipedia, one of its many common names is Lettuce from Hell.
ENTRY: JULY 2, 2015 (An Itchy Dilemma)
Yet another great question from a customer we’d like to share. It must be the peak of gardening season!!
From Judy:
“I live in a woods in the country. I have discovered poison ivy in my rock walls, shrubs, garden and edge of the woods at the road. I am having trouble getting rid of it. When I am near it, I break out in a rash, blisters, and lots of itching. I have scrubbed my tools, gloves, shoes, and the rest of the clothing when I have been out, but I still seem to pick it up so easily. Any advice for me?”
Our response:
“Sadly some people are hyper-allergic to poison ivy to the point where the oils it produces and emits will affect those people if they are downwind from the plants. You are likely one of those people. Continued control is your best bet and you may need someone else to apply it.
There are weed killers specifically labeled for poison ivy (available at Klein’s). Because poison ivy is considered a ‘woody’ plant once well established, brush killers work better than other milder herbicides–that’s why you’ll see poison ivy versions of those herbicides. Regular Roundup will readily kill young plants. If you have desirable plants in the area, simply brush the Roundup on the leaves. The poison ivy will slowly shut down over a number of days. Reapply as new plants appear.
My advice is to hire a neighbor kid, show them what poison ivy looks like and hand them the herbicide (stressing to be careful with both the poison ivy and the herbicide!!).”
ENTRY: JULY 21, 2015 (Rick’s Favorite Watering Tools)
Watering is a seemingly non-stop summer endeavor for all gardeners. For me, it’s also one of my favorite garden chores because its my time to closely observe the fruits of my labor. With over 30 years watering experience both at home and at work under my belt, I certainly have my favorite watering tools. I’ve tried many, many types of nozzles, wands, shut-off valves, hoses, sprinklers and watering cans over the years with varying degrees of success and satisfaction.
The following is my list of very favorites in terms of durability and performance. Though some are a little more expensive, their ease of use and long life make them worth the few extra dollars. Where I can, I tapped into the manufacturer’s or catalog’s website for information.
Rick’s Favorites:
#1 Spray Nozzle—Dramm’s #800 Adjustable Brass Hose Nozzle
This type of spray nozzle was my grandma’s favorite 50 years ago and it continues to be mine to this day. Squeeze spray nozzles tend to make my hand tired with all the watering I need to do. Granted, most have a lock option for continuous water flow, the amount of flow is preset offering one little control. This Dramm nozzle is easy on the hands and it NEVER breaks! I’ve been using the same one since we bought our house in 1986!!
“Our Adjustable Hose Nozzle is great for cleaning walkways, benches, equipment… just about anything! Twist the barrel to adjust the water pattern from a fine, cone-shaped spray to a powerful stream. Twist the barrel back and the water is off. Manufactured in the U.S.A. from brass. 3/4 hose threads.”
#1 Watering Wand—Dramm Colormark RainWand with Brass Shutoff Valve (not One Touch!)
—The premium Rain Wand™
—Handcrafted brass shut-off valve (see below)
—Gentle, full flow for fast watering
—Comfortable foam grip
—Professional grade materials
—Six rich colors
—American made (Manitowoc, WI)
—Lifetime guarantee
I’m not a fan of the squeeze handle, One Touch version. Again, with all the watering I do, it can be a little hard on the hand though their website and ads say otherwise.
#1 Shut-off Valve—Dramm’s #300 Brass Shut-Off Valve
“Simply the best shut-off valve available. Dramm’s #300 Brass Shut-Off Valve provides fingertip water control at the end of your hose. A quarter turn of the large ergonomic handle and the water is off. Full water flow design. Made in the USA from brass, durable seals and a hard chrome plated ball to provide years of service. 3/4 threads.”
Unlike plastic shut-offs, these never break!!! I’ve used the same two in my garden for nearly 20 years now!!
#1 Hose—Yardworks® 5/8 x 50′ Rubber Garden Hose available at Menard’s
Cheap hoses are not worth the money!! They kink, they leak, they tangle, they explode if left on. This contractor quality hose lasts for years. It rolls up easily and rarely kinks. Though pricier than other garden hoses, it’s very worth it!
“This 5/8″ diameter x 50′ long heavy-duty Yardworks® premium Black rubber garden hose offers a limited lifetime warranty and solid crush-resistant brass couplings. It can be used for tough watering chores and industrial hot water. It is made in the USA and features 5-ply construction; one inner core, one nylon reinforcement layer and three layers of premium rubber for high burst strength. It handles water pressure up to 400 PSI (pounds per square inch) and hot water to 180 degrees. Made in the USA. Lifetime limited guarantee.
#1 Lawn Sprinkler—The Original Raintower by Wade Rain
“The Raintower is the ideal sprinkler for homeowners and gardeners alike. Its stand adjusts to either 41″ or 72″ height settings. This allows you to provide gentle rain irrigation on lawns, gardens, flowers and shrub beds without shadowing (dry spots) caused by shrubs and other obstacles. The Raintower adjustable sprinkler head can water in full or partial circles. The sprinkler head is made of durable plastic. The distance of water throw can also be adjusted. This allows you to cover almost any yard or garden shape and size. From one setting you can cover-up to 5,000 square feet.”
This is the ultimate garden sprinkler!! Though it comes with a plastic sprinkler head, I’ve paid the extra money to replace it with the brass head. The plastic head lasts about 3-5 years (less if the rain tower gets knocked over on the cement driveway!), whereas I’ve had the current brass head for nearly 10. I’ve had my current rain tower for going on 20 years and have only replaced the original plastic head.
The Raintower is available online from a number of sources (see, for example www.growersupply.com) for about $75-80. Again, the price is worth it!!
The brass head is available for about $20 @ www.agriculturesolutions.com
#1 Watering Can—French Watering Can #06-341 from Gardener’s Supply Co. @ www.gardeners.com
Sad to say I’ve found out that this item is no longer being manufactured according to the Gardener’s Supply Company website. Luckily, I’ve bought 6 of them over the years (and still have all 6!). This is is the largest and easiest-to-carry watering can I’ve found to date.
#1 Rain Barrel—Deluxe 75 Gallon Rain Barrel from Gardener’s Supply Company @ www.gardeners.com
There are few 75 gallon rain barrels on the market and this one is the best. I’ve had mine for over 10 years and continue to love this barrel over others friends have purchased over the years. My only criticism of the barrel is that the water flows from the attached hose way too slowly, even though my barrel is elevated over two feet off the ground for necessary pressure. To rectify the problem, I syphon the water from the barrel using clear plastic tubing cut to length at Farm & Fleet. Once the syphoning flow starts (using my mouth!), I fill the 6 watering cans (see above). At 3 gallons ea. that equals18 gallons of water ready to go.
“Collecting rainwater just makes sense: It conserves a precious resource and reduces water bills. Plus, plants love chlorine-free rainwater! Our large-capacity Deluxe Rain Barrel has smart features that make it easy and convenient. Four ports let you attach several hoses and link multiple barrels. An overflow outlet diverts excess water away, and there’s a safety grid and removable debris screen on top. It includes a 4′ hose with on/off thumb valve that connects to a standard garden hose, and three end caps for the ports you’re not using.” Choice of green or brown.
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTHThese are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
Refreshing cool salads are a must for any summer get-together. The following are among Klein’s employees’ very favorite bean salad recipes—some quick and easy and most using the freshest of ingredients from your very own garden. Bon appetit!
POTATO AND GREEN BEAN SALAD–A family favorite from Jane Brody’s Good Food Book (1985).
1 lb. green beans, cut into 2” lengths, steamed to tender crisp and kept warm
4 large potatoes, cooked until just soft, cubed and kept warm (about 4 cups)
2 chopped green onions
2 TBS. olive or vegetable oil
2 TBS. white wine or other light vinegar
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp. dried oregano
1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Combine prepared salad ingredients in a large bowl and set aside. In a jar, combine dressing ingredients, cover and shake well. Pour the dressing over the vegetables. Toss salad gently till well mixed. Cover and chill several hours or overnight. Serves 6.
ASIAN BEAN SALAD—From Martha Stewart’s Everyday Food, March 2010.
For the dressing, whisk together:
4 TBS. vegetable oil of choice
4 TBS. rice vinegar
2 TBS. fish sauce
4 tsp. fresh minced ginger
1 jalapeno, finely chopped
1 TBS. sugar
The salad:
1 1/2 lbs. green beans, trimmed and blanched until tender crisp.
1/4 cup chopped roast peanuts
In a bowl, toss together, chill and serve. Serves 4-6.
SURPRISE BEAN SALAD—Selected from Penzey’s Spices monthly mailing.
1 1/2 cups (8 oz.) frozen, shelled edamame
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1x 15 oz. black beans, rinsed
1x 15 oz. can black-eyed peas, rinsed
1 small red onion, chopped
3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
juice of 1 lime
2/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/2-1 tsp. salt to taste
1/4-1/2 tsp. ground pepper to taste
Cook the edamame in boiling water for just 4 minutes. Drain and rinse in cool water. Place in a large serving bowl. Heat the oil in a skillet on low heat. Add the cumin and stir 1 minute. Set aside. To the edamame, add the beans, black-eyed peas, onion, celery, lemon juice, cilantro, salt and pepper. Toss well. Drizzle with the oil mixture and toss gently to coat. Allow to stand at least 10 minutes (or more) at room temperature to blend the flavors. Stir and serve. Serves 6.
DILLY BEAN SALAD—Yet another favorite from Jane Brody’s Good Food Book (1985). So quick to make and SO easy.
1 lb. small green beans, steamed until tender crisp, about 5 minutes, then chilled under cold water
2 TBS snipped fresh dill (2 tsp. dried)
6 sliced green onions
2 TBS. olive oil
1 TBS. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
salt and pepper to taste
In a medium bowl, mix together the beans, dill and green onion. In a small bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Add the dressing to the beans and mix well. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4.
TUSCAN BEAN SALAD—From the vegan cookbook Cooking the Whole Foods Way by Christina Pirello.
1/2 cup olive oil
sea salt to taste
5 TBS. balsamic vinegar
juice of 2 lemons
1/2 cup fresh minced rosemary
6 cloves peeled garlic
2x 15 oz. cans cannellini, rinsed
1 large red onion, finely diced
5-6 diced radishes
2 cucumbers, seeded and diced
In a saucepan, warm the oil and salt to taste. Off heat, whisk in the vinegar, juice and the rosemary. Take the cloves of garlic and gently rub around the interior of a large bowl. Discard the garlic. Place the beans and the veggies in the bowl and toss well with the dressing. Cover and chill several hours for best flavor. Serves 8.
THE EASIEST BEAN SALAD EVER—Tweak canned three bean salad by adding just a few extra ingredients. Your guests will assume you made the whole thing from scratch!
1x 15 oz. can three bean salad with the juice (usually found in the canned vegetable aisle)
1x 15 oz. can garbanzo beans, rinsed
1/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro
2 TBS. cider vinegar
In a bowl, mix all of the ingredients and chill. That’s it!! Serves 4-6.
BEAN, ONION & PARSLEY SALAD—Also from Martha Stewart’s Everyday Food, March 2010.
4x 14.5 oz. cans cannellini, rinsed
1/2 of a medium red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley
4 TBS. olive oil
3 TBS. red wine vinegar
coarse salt and pepper to taste
Combine all in a bowl, chill and serve. Serves 8.
From Rodale’s Organic Life website @ www.rodalesorganiclife.com/garden
Common Plant Diseases and Disorders
Learn to Identify Common Plant Diseases
If you can identify the symptoms as a blight or wilt, you may be able to take steps to limit the disease, even if you don’t know the specific pathogen causing the infection.
The common names of plant diseases often reflect the type of symptom they cause. The most common garden plant diseases and disorders are described below.
Remember: If you’re considering applying a spray or dust, take time to identify the specific disease problem first so that you apply the appropriate product at the correct time to be effective.
When plants suffer from blight, leaves or branches suddenly wither, stop growing, and die. Later, plant parts may rot.
—Fire blight: This bacterial disease affects apples, pears, fruit trees, roses, and small fruits. Infected shoots wilt and look blackened.
—Alternaria blight (early blight): This fungal blight infects ornamental plants, vegetables, fruit trees, and shade trees worldwide. On tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers, it is called early blight. On leaves, brown to black spots form and enlarge, developing concentric rings. Heavily blighted leaves dry up and die as spots grow together. Lower leaves usually show symptoms first. Targetlike, sunken spots will develop on tomato branches and stems. Fruits and potato tubers also develop dark, sunken spots. Alternaria spores are carried by air currents and are common in dust and air everywhere. They are a common cause of hay fever allergies. Alternaria fungi overwinter on infected plant parts and debris, or in or on seeds. Control this disease by planting resistant cultivars and growing your own transplants from disease-free seed. Apply Trichoderma harzianum to the soil just before planting. Promote good air circulation. For early blight, apply potassium bicarbonate (baking soda) sprays starting 2 weeks before the time of year when symptoms would normally first appear. Dispose of infected plants and when possible, use a 3-year rotation.
—Phytophthora blight (late blight): Lilacs, rhododendrons, azaleas, and holly infected by Phytophthora fungi suffer dieback of shoots and develop stem cankers. Prune to remove infected branches and to increase air movement.
On peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes, Phytophthora infection is known as late blight. The first symptom is water-soaked spots on the lower leaves. The spots enlarge and are mirrored on the undersurface of the leaf with a white downy growth. Dark-colored blotches penetrate the flesh of tubers. These spots may dry and appear as sunken lesions. During a wet season, plants will rot and die. The pathogen overwinters on infected tubers and in plant debris. Avoid problems by planting only in well-drained soil, and use resistant varieties if possible. For late blight, keep foliage dry as much as possible, and check frequently for symptoms whenever the weather is wet. Preventive sprays of compost tea or Bacillus subtilis may help prevent the disease. Immediately remove and destroy plants infected with late blight; prune off cankered shoots of shrubs. After harvest, remove and destroy all plant debris that may be infected.
—Bacterial blight: This bacterial disease is particularly severe on legumes in eastern and southern North America. Foliage and pods display water-soaked spots that dry and drop out. On stems, lesions are long and dark colored. Some spots may ooze a bacterial slime. To control, plant resistant cultivars, remove infected plants, and dispose of plant debris. Use a 3-year rotation and don’t touch plants while they are wet, as you may spread the disease.
Cankers usually form on woody stems and may be cracks, sunken areas, or raised areas of dead or abnormal tissue. Sometimes cankers ooze conspicuously. Cankers can girdle shoots or trunks, causing everything above the canker to wilt and die. Blights and diebacks due to cankers look quite similar. Cold-injury symptoms may look like, or lead to the development of, cankers and diebacks.
—Cytospora canker: This fungal disease attacks poplars, spruces, and stone fruits. The cankers are circular, discolored areas on the bark. To control, plant resistant trees and cut out branches or trees with cankers.
—Nectria canker: This fungus attacks most hardwoods and some vines and shrubs. It is most damaging on maples. Small sunken areas appear on the bark near wounds, and small pink spore-producing structures are formed. It kills twigs and branches and may girdle young trees. Control by limiting pruning cuts and removing diseased branches.
Rots are diseases that decay roots, stems, wood, flowers, and fruit. Some diseases cause leaves to rot, but those symptoms tend to be described as leaf spots and blights. Rots can be soft and squishy or hard and dry. They are caused by various bacteria and fungi. Many are very active in stored fruits, roots, bulbs, or tubers.
—Fruit rots: Grapes infected with black rot turn brown, then harden into small, black, mummified berries. Brown rot of stone fruits causes whole fruit to turn brown and soft. Control fruit rots by planting resistant cultivars, removing and destroying infected fruit, and pruning to increase air movement. Applying compost tea or Bacillus subtilis may help prevent the disease from developing. Sulfur sprays throughout the season can be effective, too, as a last resort.
—Root and stem rots: Control these troublesome rots by providing good drainage and good air circulation. Try drenching the soil with beneficial fungi or bacteria. Start cuttings in sterilized mix, and plant only healthy plants. Dispose of all infected plant material. Winter injury may invite problems on woody plants.
—Mushroom and wood rots: These rots can damage or kill trees. Some of them form obvious mushrooms or other fungal growths. Cutting out infected areas can provide control. Keep soil well drained, and plant resistant species and cultivars where problems are severe.
Rusts are a specific type of fungal disease. Many of them require two different plant species as hosts to complete their life cycle. Typical rust symptoms include a powdery tan to rust-colored coating. Applying neem oil can help prevent rust by killing spores on the leaves.
—Asparagus rust: This disease appears as a browning or reddening of the small twigs and needles, and a release of rusty, powdery spores. It overwinters on stalks and infects new shoots as they emerge the following spring. Rust is also carried to other plants by wind. To control, space plants to allow air circulation. Plant resistant cultivars. Remove infected plants and burn them in fall.
—Other rusts: Wheat rust, cedar-apple rust, and white pine blister rust require alternate hosts. Wheat rust needs barberry to survive, cedar-apple rust needs both juniper and an apple relative, and white pine blister rust needs a susceptible member of the currant family. Removing the alternate hosts in the area can control outbreaks.
Plants wilt when they don’t get enough water. When fungi or bacteria attack or clog a plant’s water-conducting system, they can cause permanent wilting, often followed by the death of all or part of the plant. Wilt symptoms may resemble those of blights.
—Stewart’s wilt: This bacterial disease is widespread on sweet corn in eastern North America. It overwinters in flea beetles and infects corn when they begin feeding on its leaves. Infected leaves wilt and may have long streaks with wavy margins. Bacterial slime will ooze out if the stalks or leaves are cut. Plants eventually die or are sufficiently stunted that no ears are produced. To control, plant resistant cultivars and eliminate flea beetles. Destroy infected plants.
—Fusarium and Verticillium wilt: These fungal wilts attack a wide range of flowers, vegetables, fruits, and ornamentals. Plants wilt and may turn yellow. To control, plant resistant cultivars. Rotate crops, or do not replant in areas where problems have occurred. If wilt only affects a branch, it may help to cut it out well below the wilt symptoms. Destroy infected branches or plants.
Other Diseases:
—Anthracnose: Anthracnose, or bird’s-eye spot, is a fungal disease. It causes small dead spots that often have a raised border and a sunken center, and that may have concentric rings of pink and brown.
—Bean anthracnose infects beans and other legumes. The symptoms are most obvious on the pods as circular, black, sunken spots that may ooze pink slime and develop red borders as they age. To control, buy disease-free seed, rotate crops, turn under or hot-compost infected plants, and avoid touching plants when they are wet so you won’t spread the disease.
—Club root: Club root affects vegetables and flowers in the cabbage family. Plants infected by the fungus wilt during the heat of the day, and older leaves yellow and drop. Roots are distorted and swollen. Avoid club root by choosing resistant cultivars and raising your own seedlings. The fungus has spores that can persist in soil for many years. If you’ve had past club root problems, adjust the soil pH to at least 6.8 before planting susceptible crops.
—Damping-off: Damping-off is caused by a variety of soilborne fungi. Seeds rot before they germinate, or seedlings rot at the soil line and fall over. It can be a problem with indoor seedlings and also in garden beds. Prevent damping-off by keeping soil moist, but not waterlogged. Provide good air movement in seed-starting areas. Wait until soil is warm enough for the specific plant before seeding. Sterile seed-starting mix or a mix that includes compost can help prevent problems, too. If you’ve had past problems with this disease, add compost to your soil, and use a product containing Trichoderma harzianum to drench the soil before planting.
—Downy mildew: Downy mildews are fungal diseases that attack many fruits, vegetables, flowers, and grasses. The primary symptom is a white to purple, downy growth, usually on the undersides of leaves and along stems, which turns black with age. Upper leaf surfaces have a pale color. Lima bean pods may be covered completely, while leaves are distorted. The disease overwinters on infected plant parts and remains viable in the soil for several years. It is spread by wind, by rain, and in seeds. To control it, buy disease-free seeds and plants, follow a 3-year rotation, and remove and dispose of infected plants. Preventive sprays of bicarbonate may be effective.
—Galls: Galls are swollen masses of abnormal tissue. They can be caused by fungi and bacteria as well as certain insects. If you cut open a gall and there is no sign of an insect, suspect disease.
Crown gall is a serious bacterial disease that infects and kills grapes, roses, fruit trees, brambles, shade trees, flowers, and vegetables. Galls are rounded with rough surfaces and are made up of corky tissue. They often occur on the stem near the soil line or graft union but can also form on roots or branches. To control it, buy healthy plants, and reject any suspicious ones. Don’t replant in an area where you have had crown gall. Avoid wounding stems, and disinfect tools between plants when pruning. Remove and destroy infected plants, or cut out galls.
—Leaf blisters and curls: Leaf blister and leaf curl are fungal diseases that cause distorted, curled leaves on many trees. Oak leaf blister can defoliate and even kill oak trees. Blisters are yellow bumps on the upper surface of the leaves, with gray depressions on the lower surface. Peach leaf curl attacks peaches and almonds. New leaves are pale or reddish and the midrib doesn’t grow along with the leaves, so the leaves become puckered and curled as they expand. Fruit is damaged, and bad cases can kill the tree. Both diseases are controlled with a single dormant oil spray just before buds begin to swell.
—Leaf spots: A vast number of fungi can cause spots on the leaves of plants. Most of them are of little consequence. A typical spot has a definite edge and often has a darker border. When lots of spots are present, they can grow together and become a blight or a blotch.
—Blackspot is a common disease on roses. The spots appear on the leaves and are up to 1/2 inch across with yellow margins. Severe cases cause leaves to drop. To control blackspot, plant resistant cultivars, and destroy all dropped leaves and prunings. Mulch to prevent dirt and spores from being splashed up onto plants. Bicarbonate sprays can be very helpful in preventing leaf spot diseases.
—Molds: Molds are characterized by a powdery or woolly appearance on the surface of the infected part.
Gray mold, or botrytis, is a common problem on many fruits and flowers. It thrives in moist conditions and is often seen on dropped flower petals or overripe fruit. It appears as a thick, gray mold or as water-soaked, blighted regions of petals, leaves, or stems. In most cases it first infects dead or dying tissue, so removing faded flowers and blighted buds or shoots will control the problem. Peonies, tulips, and lilies can be severely damaged in wet seasons. Destroy infected material, and space, prune, and support plants to encourage good air movement.
—Nematodes: Symptoms of nematode invasion include reduced growth, wilting, and lack of vigor.
Some nematodes cause excessive branching of roots, rotted roots, and enlarged lumps on roots. Other nematodes attack leaves, causing triangular wedges of dead tissue.
Root knot nematodes attack a variety of plant root systems, including most vegetable and ornamental crops. Carrot plants will be stunted, with yellowed leaves, and roots may be distorted. Roots of other plants will have swollen areas. Remember that legumes are supposed to have swellings on their roots that are caused by nitrogen-fixing bacteria.
Prevent nematodes from invading your plants by maintaining your soil organic matter. Plant resistant varieties when possible. Take care not to spread soil from nematode-infested areas to other parts of your garden or yard. Reduce nematode populations by solarizing soil. Use a marigold (Tagetes patula or T. erecta) cover crop to reduce nematodes. Rotate susceptible crops. Adding products containing chitin to the soil can help reduce problems.
Hot-water dips can eradicate nematodes from within roots, bulbs, and the soil on them.
—Powdery mildew: Mildews are one of the most widespread and easily recognized fungi. They are common on phlox, lilac, melons, cucumbers, and many other plants. Mildew forms a white to grayish powdery growth, usually on the upper surfaces of leaves. Small black dots appear and produce spores that are blown by wind to infect new plants. Leaves will become brown and shrivel when mildew is extensive. Fruits ripen prematurely and have poor texture and flavor. To control mildews, prune or stake plants to improve air circulation and dispose of infected plants before spores form. Apply bicarbonate sprays to prevent the spread of infection.
—Scabs: Scabs are fungal diseases that cause fruits, leaves, and tubers to develop areas of hardened, overgrown, and sometimes cracked tissue. Fruit scab can be a major problem on apples and peaches. Control by disposing of fallen leaves and pruning to increase air movement. If you’ve had past serious problems with scab, ask your local extension service about the best spray schedule for sulfur to control the disease.
—Smuts: Smuts are fungal diseases. They are most commonly seen on grasses, grains, and corn. Enlarged galls are soft and spongy when young but change to a dark, powdery mass as they age.
Corn smut can form on kernels, tassels, stalks, and leaves. Smut galls ripen and rupture, releasing spores that travel through the air to infect new plants and overwinter in the soil, awaiting future crops. To control corn smut, select resistant cultivars. Remove and burn galls before they break open, and follow a 4-year rotation.
—Viruses: Infected plants often grow slowly and yield poorly. Leaves may cup or twist, and develop mottling, streaking, or ring-shaped spots. Identification is often the elimination of all other possible causes. Professional growers use heat treatments and tissue culture to control viral disease. Purchase certified plants to avoid problems. Control insects that spread viruses. Remove and burn all plants with viral disease to prevent the disease from spreading.
Common Cultural Disorders:
—Cold injury: Freezing injury can cause death or dieback. Symptoms of cold stress are stunting, yellowing, bud or leaf drop, and stem cracking. Fruit may form a layer of corky tissue or be russeted if exposed to cold when young.
—Heat injury: Temperatures that are too high cause sunscald of fruits, leaves, or trunks on the sunny side of the plant. Discoloration, blistering, or a water-soaked and sunken appearance are other symptoms of heat stress.
—Moisture imbalance: Plants need a relatively constant supply of water. If they don’t have enough, they will wilt. Long periods of wilting, or repeated wilting, can cause stunting, pale color, and reduced flowering and fruit production. Plant roots also need oxygen. Too much water in the soil damages roots and will cause symptoms like frequent wilting, pale color, root decay, leaf dropping, and lack of vigor.
—Wind damage: High winds also take their toll on plant appearance. Silvery discoloration and tattered leaves are symptoms of wind damage.
—Salt damage: Ocean spray and road salt, as well as animal urine, can injure plants. Salts can accumulate on leaves, stems, and buds, or build to toxic levels around the roots. Over time, salt burn weakens the entire plant and causes droughtlike symptoms.
—Ozone damage: Ozone is a common air pollutant that can cause a wide range of symptoms in susceptible plants, including withered leaves on citrus and grapes and tipburn on conifers. If you confirm that ozone is a common pollutant where you live, your only recourse is to avoid planting sensitive species.
MEXICAN SUNFLOWER (Tithonia diversifolia)
Heighten the Beauty of Your Home with Mexican Sunflowers
by Frances Santos @ northamericanfarmer.com/index.html
About Tithonia
Tithonia is a genus of flowering plants belonging to the family Asteraceae. It includes 11 species that are native to Mexico with a couple of species found in parts of Southwestern United States and Central America.
Tithonia is more popularly known as “Mexican Sunflower”. This is a drought tolerant annual plant that thrives in warm weather. Tithonia blooms starting around summer up to sometime in fall. The daisy-like flowers are either yellow or orange. The flowers grow 2.5 to 3 inches in diameter when in full bloom. Tithonia plants are commonly used at the back portion of borders. In some warm places, Tithonias are considered a weed.
Tithonias are often grown in groups in order to look better. These plants grow up to 60 inches tall. One interesting thing about Tithonia is that it is known to attract butterflies, especially monarchs. The Mexican Sunflower is also known as “The Golden Flower of the Incas”. This plant is a very good addition to any garden. However, some people prefer to grow Tithonia in containers.
Tithonia is not the easiest plant to incorporate into a garden because of its lanky shape. However, the flowers are very attractive and can be a great accent to any garden especially because of their vibrant colors. The best solution is to place this plant beside other plants with similar height. It can also be cut back or trimmed when it gets too leggy. For best results, it should be placed in a sunny spot at the back portion of the border.
Tithonia plants are grown from seed taking about 10 days up to three weeks to sprout. In colder areas, it is best to start them indoors. However, in warmer climates, these plants are started outdoors. One valuable tip is to keep the soil moist until the seeds have sprouted. The seeds should be sowed outdoors only after the last frost in the area. The seeds should be spaced around 6-8 inches apart covered lightly (around 1/4 inch) with soil. The final spacing should be about two feet from each other. The soil should be around 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
How to Grow
Mexican Sunflowers do not like cold weather. The soil type is not very important since these plants can grow in average to rich soil as long as it is well drained. Also, it is ideal to mix in plenty of compost before planting in order to achieve optimum growth. It is also very important to have full sun to grow well.
Mexican Sunflowers are tolerant to drought and do not need much watering. The top three inches of soil should be allowed to dry out before watering. To promote healthy growth, applying some general purpose fertilizer can also be done sometime early in the season. Because of the height of these plants, staking may be required especially in places with heavy winds.
Tithonia flowers will start to bloom sometime during summer. To encourage more flowers, deadhead spent blooms. This will encourage the plant to produce blooms all the way to fall. Insect and disease problems are not common with these plants.
This past spring Klein’s carried the following tithonia varieties:
‘Goldfinger’–Single, 2-3” daisy flowers on lush, green foliage, excellent for cut flowers and attracting butterflies. Pest-free. Thrives in summer heat and humidity. Plant in full sun. A dwarf variety at just 4’.
Torch Series–A quick-growing, gorgeous, tall variety that thrives on summer heat. Super-easy to grow and great for the back-of-the-border. Brilliant orange-scarlet flowers are great for cutting. 48-60” tall. Available in deep orange, red and yellow.
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or [email protected] or Sue at [email protected]. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter. This is a great opportunity for free advertising.
Olbrich’s Blooming Butterflies
July 15-August 9
Daily from 10:00-4:00
In the Bolz Conservatory
Experience the wonder of strolling through a tropical forest on a search for fleeting butterflies. Live butterflies emerge from chrysalises daily in the Bolz Conservatory. Olbrich’s Blooming Butterflies is a great adventure for people of all ages. Children can visit stamping stations in the outdoor gardens with their Butterfly Passport while learning fun facts. Tour the outdoor gardens and visit the Growing Gifts shop. The cost is $7 for adults, $3 for children ages 12 and under, and free for children under 2. Olbrich Botanical Society members are admitted free. Parking is free. Bus tours are welcome; groups of 15 or more must register by calling 608/246-4550. The Bolz Conservatory will be closed Monday, July 13 and Tuesday, July 14 in preparation for Olbrich’s Blooming Butterflies.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Bolz Conservatory Exhibit-Integrated Pest Management
August 10 thru October 25, 2015
Daily from 10:00-4:00, Sundays 10:00-5:00
In the Bolz Conservatory
Beneficial insects have been used in the Conservatory since it opened in 1991. These bugs provide control of plant-damaging insects, minimizing the need of more dangerous traditional insecticides. These controls, along with several others, are part of the Conservatory’s Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. This widely accepted program strives to use the least toxic method of insect and disease control to be more environmentally sensitive. Learn about Olbrich’s environmentally friendly pest control methods and get ideas you can use to reduce or eliminate pesticide use at home.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Gardening as Therapy Symposium
Incorporating Gardening Into Your Therapy Program
Tuesday, August 11, 8:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m.
at Rotary Botanical Gardens
Registration deadline: August 3
Price: $75
*Note – fee includes lunch *
Visit rotarybotanicalgardens.org/gardening-therapy-registration to register.
Therapy programs that incorporate horticulture have proven their benefits with clients of all ages and abilities, and in a wide variety of clinical settings. This day-long conference is designed to give you the necessary knowledge and skills to implement horticulture into your therapy program.
Who Should Attend?

  • Occupational Therapists
  • Activities Professionals
  • Special Educators
  • Other Clinicians
  • Social Workers
  • Master Gardeners
  • Anyone interested in modifying gardening practices to

accommodate special needs are also welcome to attend
Experience and Expertise
Our dynamic speakers will provide you with a wealth of practical knowledge, years of applied experiences and a demonstrated passion for helping others using therapeutic horticulture. They include:
Mark Dwyer—Rotary Botanical Gardens Director of Horticulture
Michael Maddox—UW-Extension Director of Master Gardener Program
Darcie Olson, PhD, OTR—Madison College Occupational Therapy
Questions? Contact Kris Koch, Education Coordinator at 608.752.3885, ext.17 or [email protected]
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr., Janesville, WI
608/752-3885 or www.rotarygardens.org
Native Plant Garden Tour:
Native Grasses
Wednesday, August 12, 7:00-8:30 p.m.
In late summer, we will take a closer look at color, size and features of native grasses, from tiny mustache grass to big bluestem.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or uwarboretum.org/events
Urban Horticulture Day 2015
Saturday, August 15, 10:00-2:00
West Madison Agricultural Research Station
8502 Mineral Point Road
Verona, WI 53593
Mark your calendars for August 15th for an open house at UW-Madison’s West Madison Ag Research Station. The display gardens will be holding their annual summer event from 10am-2pm in which the public is invited to tour the outstanding collections of flowers, vegetables, and fruit.
This year’s trials and demonstrations include nearly 300 cultivars of annual and perennial flowers and one of the biggest displays of coleus in the Midwest. Nearly 200 different cultivars of vegetables and many cultivars of cold-hardy table and wine grapes are also on display.
—Taste the garden’s fresh fruits and vegetables
—View displays of hundreds of cultivars of flowrers, vegetables and grapes
—Pollinator exhibits
—Fun activities for families and kids
—University & Extension experts will be attending to share their knowledge & answer questions.
The West Madison Agricultural Research Station is located at 8502 Mineral Point Road, about a mile west of the beltline on the north side of the road. Admission and parking are free.
Visit their web site @ www.cals.wisc.edu/westmad/
Daylily Sale
Saturday, August 15, 10:00-4:00
Sunday, August 16, 11:00-3:00
Sponsored by the Wisconsin Daylily Society
For info call 608/221-1933 or visit www.wisdaylilysoc.org
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Dahlia Show
Saturday, August 15, 10:00-4:00
Sunday, August 16, 10:00-4:00
Dahlias are late summer bloomers known for their diverse forms and bright colors. Sponsored by the Badger State Dahlia Society. For more information call 608/577-1924.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Rotary Garden’s Garden Talk & Walk: The Thomas Jefferson Garden-Honoring One of America’s Founding Foodies
Wednesday, August 19, 6:00-8:00 p.m
Rotary Botanical Gardens, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI
2015 is the second and last year of RBG’s historically and horticulturally-accurate installation honoring Thomas Jefferson and his extensive gardens at Monticello. Hear about ground-breaking growing methods as well as the impressive-and revolutionary at the time-variety of foods cultivated on the estate. Then join us for RBG’s Thomas Jefferson Garden featuring plants grown from seed acquired from Monticello.
Admission: $10 for RBG Friends members and $15 for the general public. No registration required
Talk and walk is conducted byMark Dwyer, Horticulture Director & Janice Peterson, Horticulture Staff
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Drive
Janesville, WI
608/752-3885 or www.rotarygardens.org
Rotary Garden’s Evening Garden Seminar: Tough Perennials
Wednesday, August 26, 6:30-8:00 p.m
Rotary Botanical Gardens, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI
Our perennials are an investment in time, expense and ultimately take up prime “real estate” in our gardens. We want all of our plant selections to thrive although sometimes conditions warrant the selection of extremely tough and durable perennial selections. Tough perennials don’t sacrifice interest, color or impact and should be considered for their adaptability and low maintenance “inputs.” Rotary Botanical Gardens has over 3,000 varieties of perennials. Come and learn about some of the toughest selections for both sun and shade conditions.
Admission: $7 for RBG Friends members and $10 for the general public. No registration required
Seminar is conducted by Mark Dwyer, RBG Director of Horticulture
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Drive
Janesville, WI
608/752-3885 or www.rotarygardens.org
Guided Garden Strolls
Sundays, June thru September, 1:30-3:00
Get an insider’s view of Olbrich’s outdoor gardens during a free guided garden stroll. All ages are welcome for this casual overview of the Gardens. Guided garden strolls will vary somewhat according to the season to reflect the garden areas that are at peak interest.
Strolls start and end in the lobby near the Garden entrance and are about 45 to 60 minutes in length. No registration is required; strolls are drop-in only. Strolls are held rain or shine and will be cancelled only in the event of dangerous lightning.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Dane County Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, April 18 thru November 7, 6:00-2:00
On the Capitol Square
Wednesdays, April 22 thru November 4, 8:30-2:00
In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.
For details visit www.dcfm.org
Northside Farmers Market
Sundays, May 3 through October 18, 8:30-12:30
In the Northside TownCenter at the intersection of N. Sherman Ave. and Northport Dr. across from Warner Park.
The Northside Farmers Market is a nonprofit community enterprise. It is one of the newest and fastest growing farmers’ markets in Dane County. In keeping with the innovative spirit of Madison’s Northside, we are surpassing what defines the traditional farmers’ market. Our fundamental principles include:
–Providing an abundant selection of high quality, locally grown foods.
The market accepts Quest, WIC and Senior FMNP vouchers.
–Supporting our local agricultural entrepreneurs who are increasingly important today in ensuring that we have the best and safest food possible.
–Educating the community about traditional foods and the history of local agriculture in an attempt to preserve (and expand upon) our rich heritage.
–Promoting nutrition and the market by hosting dinners for neighborhood groups and seniors.
Parking is always FREE!
For details visit www.northsidefarmersmarket.org
AUGUST IN THE GARDENA checklist of things to do this month.
___Give the garden at least 1” of moisture per week.
___Mow as little as possible and with mower raised to at least 2”.
___Mulch beds to conserve moisture and keep down weeds.
___Deadheading spent blooms as needed.
___Collect seeds for next year’s garden.
___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.
___Take pictures of your garden for record keeping.
___Stake and support tall plants as needed.
___Divide daylilies as they finish blooming.
___Transplant and divide iris and peonies.
___Plant late crops of lettuce, spinach, radishes, etc.
___Order spring bulbs for fall planting: daffodils, tulips, hyacinth, etc.
___Plant fall blooming crocus bulbs.
___Fertilize potted plants at least every 2 weeks. Follow directions.
___Stop fertilizing all trees and shrubs.
___Keep and eye on the weather. Water as needed.
___Watch for pests and control as needed or desired.
___Shop for early mum selection and fall pansies.
___Begin checking out the garden centers for spring bulb selection.
___Stop watering held over amaryllis for 8 weeks for holiday blooms.
___Begin taking cuttings of geraniums, coleus and other plants to winter over.
___Visit Klein’s—Watch for end of season savings on perennials, shrubs and select annuals.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333
For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998
For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
Note: To receive every possible seed, plant or garden supply catalog imaginable, check out Cyndi’s Catalog of Garden Catalogs @ www.gardenlist.com. Most catalogs are free and make for great winter reading!
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’SThis is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
—The poinsettias continue grow and thrive in our back greenhouses. They’re so big already, we’ve had to give them adequate spacing.
–The first of the mums, pansies and fall cole crops go out onto the sales floor.
—Summer maintenance projects are under way. This year’s plans include replacing old benches, replacing and repairing some roofs and some general touchups.
—We continue to space and pamper the fall mums that are now just beginning to bloom.
—We’re prepping our main showrooms for the semi-load of houseplants arriving from Florida about mid-month. We time this shipment with the arrival of the college students. Select from all shapes and sizes; from tropicals to succulents. The showrooms become a veritable jungle.
—We begin ordering plants for the 2016 season.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTEach month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Systemic Insect Control from Bonide
If planning on bringing any plants indoors that have spent the summer outside, it’s almost (during the first week of September) the time to begin preventative measures to avoid bringing insect pests inside along with your plants. It’s far better to begin a regular routine now than to deal with pest problems once established indoors.
Systemic pesticides, unlike those directly sprayed on the insect, are absorbed by the plant itself and makes the plant toxic for insects to feed on them. Soft tissued plants absorb the chemicals quicker than woody plants which require the 4-6 week period for the systemic to work. We recommend starting Labor Day weekend for application for two reasons. First off, it happens to fall in that 4-6 week window before our average killing frost. Secondly, it’s easy to remember to apply it at about the same time from year to year.
The Bonide systemic we sell at Klein’s comes in two sizes (the smaller size packaged for houseplants and the larger for garden plants though the exact same product in both). The systemic needs to be reapplied about every 5 weeks throughout the winter to prevent insect infestations. When one brings plants indoors, we not only bring in the adults, but also their unhatched eggs. Reapplying also prevents plant-to-plant infestations. The most common indoor plant pests controlled by the systemic include aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, spider mites and thrips. Though mentioned on the label, we’ve found the systemic a little too mild to rid plants of scale and it seems relatively ineffective against the fungus gnats that live in the soil.
Carefully use the product according to package instructions; usually a few teaspoons stirred into the surface soil of your average sized potted plant. Dosage is based on pot size and soil volume, not plant size. For application, use a disposable plastic teaspoon and not a dinner spoon. Apply the systemic when the plants need to be watered and once applied, water them thoroughly. It’s not recommended to use the systemic in rooms where small children or pets have access to the treated plants.