‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—NOVEMBER 2015
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
3758 E. Washington Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/244-5661 or [email protected]
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS:
Klein’s Customer Appreciation Days! **November 20 thru 22**
Plant Your Spring Bulbs Into Early December
Congratulations to our Most Beautiful Garden Contest Winners!
Our ‘Mad Gardener’ Is Ready for Your Questions
Thanksgiving Decorating Ideas for Your Home
Olbrich Botanical Gardens: A History
You Asked the Mad Gardener About Moving Plants to a New Home
Plant of the Month: Blooming Kalanchoe
It’s Time to Sign Up for Your 2016 CSA Shares
Our Very Favorite Barley Recipes
Product Spotlight: Home Decor Botanicals from Second Nature
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—from October 2015
—Cyanocitta cristata: “crested blue chattering bird”
—November: A Poem for Gardeners
November in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
Review Klein’s @: Yelp, Google Reviews or Facebook Reviews
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
Join Klein’s Blooming Plant or Fresh Flower Club
Related Resources and Websites
Plants Harmful to Kids and Pets
KLEIN’S 2015 CUSTOMER APPRECIATION DAYS are November 20 thru November 22. Enter a winter wonderland filled with our homegrown poinsettias, holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs. Free refreshments & popcorn.
Receive Double Rewards Points on All Applicable Purchases!
On Saturday, November 21 and on Sunday, November 22 join us for the following workshops:
From 10:00-12:00 & from 1:00-4:00—Design & Create Outdoor Holiday Containers with fresh pine greens, branches, berries and all the traditional (and not-so-traditional) holiday baubles, bangles and beads. Oodles of pre-made containers will be available or make your own on site. Bring your own empty container(s) or purchase one of ours and we’ll get you started. This workshop is being presented with the help of Becky Nickel of Buds & Blooms. Please contact Sue at [email protected] if interested in taking part and for price information.
From 1:00-2:00—Create Your Own Miniature Garden, Fairy Garden or Terrarium. Here’s your chance to purchase pre-made miniature gardens and supplies or make your own on-site. Bring your own container or purchase one of ours. This workshop is being presented by Klein’s own miniature garden aficionado, Kathryn Derauf. Please contact Sue at [email protected] if interested in taking part.
Also on Sunday, November 22 from 3:00-4:00:
Thanksgiving Floral Centerpiece Workshop. Join owner and floral designer, Sue Klein, in Klein’s behind-the-scenes design shop in learning how to create your own stunning Thanksgiving masterpiece using long-lasting fall flowers. Once your design is complete, we’ll store it for you in our coolers, if you like, for pick-up later in the week. Please contact Sue at [email protected] if interested in taking part and for cost information.
AND on Sunday, November 22 from 12:00-4:00:
Holiday Family Photo Shoot. Come in with your family and/or pet for a photo in front of a beautiful Christmas display of poinsettias and lighted trees. Julie Fix will be our photographer. Receive a free 5 x 7 and have the opportunity to purchase Christmas cards and/or additional photos. To reserve your time and for more information, contact Sue Klein at [email protected].
Customer Appreciation Days Hours:
CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR MOST BEAUTIFUL GARDEN CONTEST WINNERS:
Most Beautiful Garden:
1st place: Julie Fitzpatrick
2nd place: Ron and Sharon Smith
3rd place: Carol Krizmanic
Most Beautiful Container Garden: Suzanne Hutchison.
Thanks to all for entering! As usual it was difficult to select winners – all were amazing!!
FANTASTIC SELECTION OF SPRING BULBS STILL IN STOCK!
We have all of your favorites–tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums–and a few not-so-well known treasures for your garden. November is the Best Time to plant your spring bulbs (planting too can early promote premature leaf growth) and nothing could be more uplifting after a long winter than crocus, snowdrops and winter aconite blossoms peeking through the snow come spring. Allow the Klein’s staff to share planting tips and ideas to keep those pesky squirrels from digging up those newly planted bulbs. And for indoor blooms, don’t forget a few hyacinths, paperwhites and amaryllis for indoor forcing. We carry a lovely assortment of forcing glasses, vases and decorative pottery. Forced bulbs make for an inexpensive and treasured holiday gift. Any bulb questions? Don’t forget our Mad Gardener @ [email protected]!
A Reminder: Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes . . . usually into early December. Watch for season end savings on bulbs for the garden during the month of November and as the weather cools.
THE MAD GARDENER
“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at [email protected]. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link to this e-mail address on our home page for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s. The Mad Gardener hopes to hear from you soon!
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
Please note that our Mad Gardener is not only an expert gardener, but can answer all of your indoor plant questions as well.
NOVEMBER STORE HOURS:
Monday thru Friday : 8:00-6:00
Holiday Hours Begin Friday, November 27
Monday thru Friday 8:00-7:00
Holiday hours run through Wednesday, December 23.
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
The new 2016 FTD Calendar is available beginning mid-November at our checkout. These beautiful, flower-filled calendars are free. No purchase necessary.
Watch for great specials on all remaining spring bulbs. November is the perfect month for planting next spring’s bloomers. Selection becomes limited and includes daffodils, tulips, crocus and more. Sale does not include paperwhites, amaryllis, forcing hyacinths and gift boxes.
November 1–Daylight Savings Time ends
November 3–Election Day
November 11–Veterans’ Day
November 20 thru November 22–KLEIN’S CUSTOMER APPRECIATION DAYS. Enter a winter wonderland filled with holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs. Free refreshments on hand and receiveDouble Rewards Points on all applicable purchases! See above for event details.
November 25–Full Moon
November 26–Thanksgiving Day (Store Closed)
November 27–Klein’s Holiday Hours begin
‘THE FLOWER SHOPPE’:
With Thanksgiving just around the corner, here are a few ideas from the Society of American Florists’ website at www.aboutflowers.com. For more decorating ideas give Klein’s a call at 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661 and ask for one of our talented designers—Sue, Kathy or Darcy. Be sure to order early for prompt delivery. kleinsfloral.com/delivery.php
Appointed as a day to give thanks for the bountiful gifts of the land, the first national Thanksgiving day was proclaimed by George Washington and celebrated on November 26, 1789. In 1863 Abraham Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday to be celebrated on the last Thursday of November. The Canadian observance of Thanksgiving began in 1879 and is celebrated annually on the second Monday of October.
Thanksgiving Floral Decorating Ideas
- Accessorize a large table by placing a long, narrow centerpiece in the center of the table. Add a few smaller accent pieces or candles on each side of the arrangement for an added effect.
- Ask your florist to create a centerpiece in a treasured family vase or bowl, or in seasonal pieces such as a cornucopia or a utility vase surrounded by dry corn cobs.
- To create a lot of drama and variety, place a topiary at one end of the table leading to a cluster of small potted plants, then two smaller topiaries with candles leading to a tray of votive candles and flower petals, and so on…
- Ask your florist to use vegetables or fruits as accents in your floral arrangement.
- Garnish your serving trays with flowers and greens.
- Scatter colorful fall leaves, flowers and votive candles along the center of your dining table.
- Float flowers in crystal wine glasses.
- Place a single long-stem rose on each plate to welcome your guests to the table.
- Decorate small desserts with flowers or make an ice ring with flowers to chill champagne or wine.
- Ask your florist to design the arrangements for your buffet table on several different levels to keep the eye flowing all along the table.
- Place a garland of fruit, flowers and fall foliage over your front door.
Chrysanthemums, bittersweet, gerbera daisies, roses, carnations, alstroemeria, lilies, wheat, solidago, monte casino, marigolds. Potted plants in season include chrysanthemums, daisies and cyclamen.
YOU ASKED THE MAD GARDENER . . .
Although most people choose to list their homes for sale in the spring/summer months, I’ve decided to put mine on the market this fall. From the research that I’ve done, I understand that landscaping in a yard of a home that you’re selling is considered a permanent fixture of the property and must be sold with the house; however, I’m wondering if it’s possible for me to divide all my new flowering plants so that I can take a piece of each one with me to plant in my new yard.
With winter coming, how would you suggest I go about this? It will
most likely take me days to divide all my plants before the move, so
I’m wondering if they will survive if I place each plant in its own
individual bucket with soil and then store them in my garage. Please help. Leah
Unless you have particular plants that you truly treasure (are special to you, have sentimental value, are rare, etc.), the labor involved probably wouldn’t be worth it given the chances or survival through the winter out of the ground. At Klein’s, we store any leftover potted perennials at the end of the season in an unheated greenhouse at the back of the property. Many perennials come through the winter with flying colors (daylilies, hosts, iris) while others either deteriorate or rarely survive (ferns, hibiscus and so many others). If your new garage is attached or heated into the 30’s, your chances are far greater.
In short, yes, I would give it a try in that it can’t hurt, but be careful to prioritize your choices. I’m assuming your meaning perennials, of course, and not annuals or shrubs. Start with your very favorites and work your way backwards until you don’t want to dig, split, pot or haul any more. Keep your plants moist, but not soggy during the winter. You won’t need to water them while they’re frozen. If you have an attached garage, storing them along the house-side wall will help keep them a little warmer. If we have a mild winter all plants will fare better than during a cold winter…another reason to give it a try. Winter temps is a huge variable. Don’t be tempted to throw old sheets or blankets over your pots. Doing so will encourage mice to overwinter and nest in and under the fabric.
The fact you’ve landscaped your yard front and back (and I’m assuming tastefully), leads me to believe you should be able to recoup the cost of many of your plants in the sale of your home as a selling point. Take pictures now (if you already haven’t) to tempt potential buyers. If your home sells after the leaves are gone or your yard is covered with snow, those buyers won’t be able to appreciate the beauty of your yard and the work you’ve put into it. An extra thousand dollars in the sale of your home will buy you a lot of new plants in the spring!!
If you haven’t put your home on the market yet, then yes, you can go ahead and remove and pot any plant you want–the whole plant. They still belong to you. If you have a friend or relative where you can “bank” the whole root balls in an empty vegetable or flower garden would give you the best chance for survival. Plants that are overwintered in the ground always have a better chance. You could then mulch them with straw or hay to improve the odds. Plants could be removed and transplanted as soon as the ground thaws in April and before your friends need their garden space in May.
Lots to think about and good luck!
Thanks for your question,
Klein’s Mad Gardener
DID YOU KNOW. . .
. . . that in Olbrich Botanical Gardens, Madison is lucky to have one of the most renowned public gardens in North America.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens was chosen among public gardens in North America to receive the 2005 Award for Garden Excellence from the American Association of Botanic Gardens and Arboreta (AABGA). The award is given to one public garden each year which best exemplifies the highest standards of horticultural practices and has shown a commitment to supporting and demonstrating the best gardening practices.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens’ History
The beautiful gardens and conservatory buildings that now comprise the Olbrich Botanical Gardens are the result of the collective work of thousands of people who have labored unstintingly for more than fifty years to make them a reality. But neither the gardens nor the larger park that surrounds them would exist today if it had not been for the vision, the energy and the generosity of just one man, Madison attorney Michael B. Olbrich.
“No greater mistake can be made than the belief that taste and esthetic sense is a monopoly of the merely well-to-do or purely a product of formal schooling. The park proposed is intended primarily to bring back into the life of the worker confronted by the dismal industrial tangle, whose forces we all so little comprehend, something of the grace and beauty that nature intended us all to share. For this park has not a passive, but an active function. It is not to stand aloof, a treasure of the city, beautiful, still, reserved. This park above all others, with a warmth and strength of love – of love of all the working world – should hold out its arms, should invite them to itself, until its naturalness and beauty enter into their lives.”
-Michael B. Olbrich, 1921
From a speech proposing a garden site on Starkweather Creek near Lake Monona
Acquiring the Land
Olbrich was especially interested in the preservation of direct public access to Madison’s lakeshores and to Lake Monona in particular. This emphasis on Lake Monona arose out of Olbrich’s concern that the residential areas on Madison’s east side that were being developed adjacent to the factories that had been established along Williamson Street and Atwood Avenue were lacking in adequate park facilities. Olbrich saw that new residential developments were moving inexorably towards the lakeshore and he realized that only prompt action would save the still vacant shoreline at the east end of Lake Monona.
In 1916, Olbrich’s attention focused on what was then a badly polluted marshland that bordered both sides of Starkweather Creek at the east end of Lake Monona. In its place he envisioned a sweeping expanse of park curving along the lake shore, a park whose crowning feature would be a municipal flower garden set in its midst. This park would then be linked to a parkway that would follow the north shore of the lake all the way to the recently completed parkway that bordered both sides of the Yahara River.
Single-handedly, Olbrich set about acquiring this property, using his own money and concentrating first on the area bordering Starkweather Creek. His first purchase gave him control of almost 2700 feet of shoreline, which he then offered to the city at cost providing that the new park was named “La Follette Park.” This condition proved unacceptable to many due to La Follette’s opposition to World War I so Olbrich kept the land, adding 800 more feet to the total in the next three years and bringing his personal commitment to almost $40,000. In 1919, after La Follette requested that his name not be used, Olbrich repeated his previous offer to the city. This time, support for Olbrich’s proposal was widespread. Olin and the Park and Pleasure Drive Association brought in noted Chicago landscape architect O. C. Simonds to draw up a development plan for the new park. Olbrich then led two successful community-wide fund-raising drives to secure additional parcels of land and on July 22, 1921, the city took title to its new park.
In 1922 Olbrich formed the Madison Parks Foundation to raise the money necessary to complete the new park and to acquire the shoreline between it and the Yahara River parkway. By 1928 both goals had been achieved and Olbrich then turned the attention of the foundation to the acquisition of the first portions of the University of Wisconsin Arboretum on the shore of Lake Wingra. When Olbrich died unexpectedly in 1929, the city council responded by naming the new park at Lake Monona’s east end Olbrich Park in his honor and in recognition of the remarkable legacy he had left to his adopted city.
Improving the Property
Without a doubt, the new park had required something of a visionary to see its potential when Olbrich first began to assemble it in 1916. The character of the site, its size and even its shape was much different than what we see today. In that day the shoreline of Lake Monona came to within one hundred feet of Atwood Avenue opposite today’s Botanical Gardens and most of the land within the park boundaries was unusable and unappreciated marsh that was seriously polluted by the effluents discharged by the adjacent United States Sugar Company’s beet processing plant.
During Olbrich’s lifetime, the only part of the park that was truly usable was the playground area that is still located just to the west of today’s Botanical Gardens. The remaining land awaited implementation of O.C. Simond’s 1920 development plan, but no action was taken on this major project until 1931, when the city took over the parks system created by Olin and his Association and promoted James G. Marshall to be the head of the new Parks Department.
Marshall’s first task was to coordinate the large work crews that were being organized by the city’s Outdoor Relief Committee; the effect of these crews on Olbrich Park was immediate. Atwood Avenue’s path through the park was straightened and the old roadway was torn up. The debris then became part of the fill that the city deposited in its newly designated municipal dumping ground, located in the marshy area east of Starkweather Creek between Atwood Avenue and the railroad tracks. Marshall then screened this area with trees and set his crews to work improving the existing playground area and the stretch of land along the lakeshore. By 1933, these projects were mostly completed and they were complemented by the tree and flower planting activities of neighborhood organizations like the East Side Business Men’s Association and the Madison Garden Club.
By late 1935, enough work had been done on the park to make the comprehensive planning of its future both feasible and necessary. Consequently, Marshall oversaw the preparation of the first master plan for the development of the park. This plan was especially notable for including the first preliminary plan for what would eventually become today’s Botanical Gardens. The proposed gardens, though quite different in design from what was actually built, were intended from the first to be located where the gardens are today. Unfortunately, this 11.5 acre site was still largely a peat bog and marshland in 1935, and its development lay far in the future.
The ensuing years saw the gradual filling in of all the marshy areas within the park’s boundaries. The east end of Lake Monona and Starkweather Creek were both dredged and the sandy fill that resulted was then used to extend the shoreline of the park further out into the lake and to fill in low-lying areas such as the gardens site.
By 1950, the process of turning marshland into parkland was largely complete and most of Olbrich’s dream of providing the east side with recreation space and lake access was a reality. All that remained was to crown this work with the flower gardens that Olbrich had hoped might one day grace the site.
Establishing the Gardens and the Olbrich Botanical Society
The first work towards establishing the gardens began in 1952 when the Olin Trust Fund gave the Madison Parks Commission $22,688 to begin development. This resulted in the twin shelter buildings that are still extant today and in the large formal space behind them that was originally the Rose Mall. Another grant from the Olin Fund in 1957 gave the gardens its first greenhouse, a structure that was soon expanded to serve as an informal center for area gardeners.
By the early 1960s, however, it was realized that a real garden center building was necessary in order to fully realize the garden’s potential. This led to the formation in 1962 of the Garden Center Club, a volunteer group whose members were to work ceaselessly over the next decade to establish such a center. In the meantime, the gardens continued to grow in size and in beauty. More greenhouses were erected and in 1965 the Olin Fund made possible the construction of the John M. Olin Fountain. In 1971 the Club’s efforts were beginning to pay off and Madison architect Stuart Gallaher was commissioned to design a new garden center building. A major fund-raising effort finally made this elegant building a reality and it was dedicated in 1978 at a cost of $380,000.
The creation of the new Center was accompanied by the establishment of the Olbrich Botanical Society in 1979, a non-profit organization whose members support the Gardens’ fund-raising and educational activities. The Society promptly redoubled efforts to expand the Gardens themselves. This resulted in the new Rose Garden, Perennial Garden, Herb Garden, All-America Garden, and Rock Garden. In 1986, over 60,000 persons visited the Gardens, which also hosted 345 meetings, concerts, classes, and events.
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach.
ENTRY: OCTOBER 8, 2015 (Perfect Paperwhites)
Paperwhites are among my favorite holiday blooming plants. There is nothing quite so addicting as having plants blooming in your home during the winter and nothing is easier to bring into bloom than paperwhite narcissus and our bulk paperwhites arrived at the store just today. Paperwhites belong to the tazetta division of daffodils and are hardy in Zones 9 and 10. In fact, in those warm climates, these are the only daffodils they can grow successfully.
Paperwhites and amaryllis can both be easily forced into bloom without any cold treatment, but unlike amaryllis, paperwhites cannot be saved to bloom again.
There are several types of paperwhites on the market. Klein’s carries the following in bulk:
Ziva is a reliable strain that is imported from Israel. It produces clusters of pure white blooms with a strong, spicy fragrance on stems averaging 16-18 inches tall. Ziva takes as little as two weeks to bloom.
Erlicheer has clumps of white flowers with yellow centers.
Galilee bears pure white blooms with a lighter, musky scent on stems 12- 14 inches tall. It blooms in 3-4 weeks, often having several bloom stems per bulb.
Grand Soleil d’Or offers lemon to gold petals around a yellow-orange cup with a delicate sweet fragrance. It grows 12-14 inches tall and blooms in 4-5 weeks.
Inbal is an all white type of paperwhite, similar to Ziva, except with a very delicate and pleasant fragrance and a flatter cup.
Potting Your Paperwhites
These easy-to-bloom bulbs can be successfully grown in either soil or gravel. In either case, your container must be at least deeper than the height of the bulbs. (It can be deeper, if you prefer) Space the bulbs as close as possible without touching each other or the sides of the container.
Planting paperwhites in soil is a little more work but results in a stronger root system. The disadvantage to using soil is that you need a container with drainage, and that would require a saucer indoors.
To plant the bulbs, place an inch or two of a quality potting soil on the bottom of the container. Space out the bulbs and press them lightly into the soil. Add enough soil to come up to the tip of the bulbs and firm. Paper whites planted in soil can be top-dressed with decorative gravel or moss. After potting, thoroughly moisten the soil.
An alternative to soil is to plant paperwhites in gravel (or sand) and water. Choose a container that you are sure is watertight. You will need gravel with small pieces that can easily settle into all the nooks and crannies between the bulbs. Klein’s offers small packages of horticultural stone for this purpose. If you have stone from another source, be sure to rinse it thoroughly before using it with your bulbs.
If you have potted your bulbs in soil, simply keep them evenly moist. If you are growing your paperwhites in gravel, keep the water level just below the bottom of the bulbs. When the water is so deep that the basal plate at the bottom of the bulb stays wet, it may rot.
Paperwhite narcissus like good daylight, but don’t want to be in direct sunlight. Temperatures of 60-65 degrees are ideal, but usually our homes are much warmer. If possible, place the growing bulbs in a cool room at night. It takes an average of 3-4 weeks for paperwhites to bloom. When grown warm, the bulbs tend to be taller and weaker, sometimes leaning over. Continue to provide water as needed until the bulbs have finished blooming. Paper white bulbs cannot be saved for another season of bloom, so you can dispose of them once they are not longer blooming or attractive.
Special Tips to Succeed with Paperwhites
Add a handful of activated charcoal to the bottom of the container before planting to keep your water or soil fresh. This is especially helpful with bulbs grown in water and stones.
Water your paperwhites with a solution of a capful of rubbing alcohol to a quart of water. This acts as a growth regulator and keeps them a little shorter (see below).
For stronger plants, place your newly planted paperwhites somewhere cool and dark for a week immediately after planting to give them a little extra rooting time before growing. If you have extra space in a refrigerator, this works perfectly.
Keep a few extra bulbs in a cool, dark place and you’ll be able to plant them every few weeks to have blooms all winter long.
Source: http://www.bachmans.com, Bachman’s Garden Center, Minneapolis, MN
A Nip of Alcohol for Shorter Plants
An interesting fun fact about paperwhites–For shorter, non-floppy paperwhites, give them a nip of alcohol. It turns out that alcohol, diluted with water, will shorten the narcissus stems. If you follow our instructions below, the stems will be one-third to one-half shorter than normal, but with the same size flowers. Caution: If you give them too much alcohol, it could be toxic to the plant.
Begin watering with a dilute solution of four to six percent alcohol when shoots are about one to two inches above the top of the bulbs. (Solution should not exceed 10 percent!) Rubbing alcohol and distilled spirits such as gin, vodka, whiskey, rum and tequila are all fine. Beer and wine are not appropriate because of the sugars they contain. To determine the correct dilute solution, take the percentage of alcohol on the label and divide by five.
Example 1: A bottle of gin is labelled 40 percent alcohol. 40 divided by 5 = 8. You’ll need an 8-fold dilution to yield 5 percent alcohol, so mix your solution 7 parts water to 1 part gin.
Example 2: Rubbing alcohol is 70 percent alcohol. 70 divided by 5 = 14. You’ll need a 14-fold dilution to yield 5 percent alcohol, so mix 13 parts water to 1 part rubbing alcohol.
ENTRY: OCTOBER 17, 2015 (Cyanocitta cristata: “crested blue chattering bird”)
Earlier today I finished setting up my winter birdfeeding station just outside my TV room window for easy viewing. The station is set in a grove of white pines, arborvitae, dogwood and other assorted shrubs in order to give the birds security and a quick escape from predators. In my dozen or so assorted feeder types I serve up a smorgasbord of offerings including safflower seed, sunflower seed, niger seed, millet, corn, suet and raw peanuts; both shelled and unshelled. Within minutes of putting up my two peanut feeders they were visited by chickadees, nuthatches, cardinals and, of course, blue jays. The blue jays seem to prefer the whole, unshelled peanuts. After the screams announcing their arrival at the feeders, they swoop in, grab a single peanut and whisk it away to a nearby branch where they crack it open with their bill, sledgehammer-style to enjoy the treats inside. Just feet away is a feeder filled with shelled peanuts, yet they seem to prefer the added step of shelling their own.
About Blue Jays
Blue jays are a year round local resident. One of the loudest and most colorful birds of eastern back yards and woodlots, the blue jay is unmistakable. Intelligent and adaptable, it may feed on almost anything, and it is quick to take advantage of bird feeders. Besides their raucous jay! jay! calls, blue jays make a variety of musical sounds, and they can do a remarkable imitation of the scream of a Red-shouldered Hawk. Captive blue jays sometimes learn to imitate human speech and meowing cats. Not always conspicuous, they slip furtively through the trees when tending their own nest or going to rob the nest of another bird.
Blue jays are sometimes known to eat eggs or nestlings, and it is this practice that has tarnished their reputation. In fact, they are largely vegetarian birds. Most of their diet is composed of acorns, nuts, and seeds—though they also eat small creatures such as caterpillars, grasshoppers, and beetles. Blue jays sometimes store acorns in the ground and may fail to retrieve them, thus aiding the spread of forests.
Common in much of eastern and central North America, blue jays are gradually extending their range to the Northwest. They are fairly social and are typically found in pairs or in family groups or small flocks. Most northern birds head south for the winter and join in large flocks of up to 250 birds to make the long journey. However, this migration is a bit of a mystery to scientists. Some birds winter in all parts of the blue jay’s range, and some individual birds may migrate one year and not the next. It is unclear what factors determine whether each blue jay or family decides to migrate.
Blue jays are found in all kinds of forests but especially near oak trees; they’re more abundant near forest edges than in deep forest. They’re common in urban and suburban areas, especially where oaks or bird feeders are found.
Blue jays build their nests in the crotch or thick outer branches of a deciduous or coniferous tree, usually 10-25 feet above the ground. Male and female both gather materials and build the nest, but on average male does more gathering and female more building. Twigs used in outer part of nest are usually taken from live trees, and birds often struggle to break them off. Birds may fly great distances to obtain rootlets from recently dug ditches, fresh graves in cemeteries, and newly fallen trees. Jays may abandon their nest after detecting a nearby predator.
Blue jays are known for their intelligence and complex social systems, and have tight family bonds. They often mate for life, remaining with their social mate throughout the year.
Only the female incubates; her mate provides all her food during incubation. For the first 8–12 days after the nestlings hatch, the female broods them and the male provides food for his mate and the nestlings. Female shares food gathering after this time, but male continues to provide more food than female.
Blue jays can live up to 12-15 years; very long-lived among songbirds.
Sources: www.audubon.org, www.nationalgeographic.com & www.allaboutbirds.org
ENTRY: OCTOBER 31, 2015 (November: A Poem for Gardeners)
Daylight savings time ends tonight and the garden is nearly put to bed for the season…
In all the days of my youth,
None struck me so as those
When the air was chill
But no leaves fell
And the ground was not yet covered in white.
It seemed to me then
That the earth itself
Was in transition
And could not choose
Between golden autumn and white winter.
But every year she would make her choice.
And I would mourn the loss of leaves and grass
And welcome the quiet months.
By Lorralai Danvers @ allpoetry.com
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.), a member of the grass family, is a major cereal grain. It was one of the first cultivated grains and is now grown widely. Barley grain is a staple in Tibetan cuisine and was eaten widely by peasants in Medieval Europe. Barley has also been used as animal fodder, as a source of fermentable material for beer and certain distilled beverages, and as a component of various health foods. It is used in soups and stews, and in barley bread of various cultures. Barley grains are commonly made into malt in a traditional and ancient method of preparation.
Barley at a Glance
How important is barley to civilization? Aside from its use as food, barley is the root of the English measurement system. In 1324 Edward II of England standardized the inch as equal to “three grains of barley, dry and round, placed end to end lengthwise.” The foot, the yard, the mile, and all other English measurements followed on.
While inches and feet have given way to centimeters and meters in most of the world, barley is still central to the world’s food supply. In fact, it’s the world’s fourth most important cereal crop after wheat, rice, and corn.
Barley is highest in fiber of all the whole grains, with common varieties clocking in at about 17% fiber, and some, such as the variety called Prowashonupana barley (marketed by Conagra as Sustagrain), having up to 30% fiber! (For comparison, brown rice contains 3.5% fiber, corn about 7%, oats 10% and wheat about 12%.) While the fiber in most grains is concentrated largely in the outer bran layer, barley’s fiber is found throughout the whole grain, which may account for its extraordinarily high levels.
But the goodness of whole grains comes from more than fiber. Whole grain barley is high in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals essential to health, too. However, much of the barley eaten in the U.S. is pearled or pearl barley, which is missing some or all of its bran layer.
As it grows in the field, most barley has an inedible hull adhering tightly to the grain kernel. The easiest, quickest way to remove this inedible hull is to scrape (pearl) it off without worrying too much about how much bran comes off at the same time. To make sure you’re enjoying true whole grain barley, look for hulled barley (barley where the inedible hull was removed carefully, keeping any bran loss to insignificant levels) or hulless barley (a different variety that grows without a tightly-attached hull).
Health Benefits of Barley
In scientific studies, barley has been shown to reduce the risk of many diseases, and to provide important health benefits. Barley offers many of the same healthy vitamins and minerals as other whole grains, but many think its special health benefits stem from the high levels of soluble beta-glucan fiber found in this grain.
According to a recent review in the journal Minerva Med, beta-glucans reduce cholesterol, help control blood sugar, and improve immune system function. New research even indicates that beta-glucans may be radioprotective: they may help our bodies stand up better to chemotherapy, radiation therapy and nuclear emergencies.
—Barley, like all whole grains, reduces blood pressure.
—Eating barley has been shown to lower LDL “bad” cholesterol and may help reduce the risk of heart disease.
—A flood of recent research indicates that barley’s ability to control blood sugar may be exceptional, offering an important tool against rising rates of diabetes.
—Barley has more protein than corn, brown rice, millet, sorghum or rye, and is higher in fiber and lower in soluble (starch) carbohydrates than almost all other whole grains.
—Barley may help you feel full longer, and thereby help you control your weight.
—Barley – even pearl barley – may help reduce visceral fat and waist circumference.
Most of us were introduced to barley as those little white things floating in our canned soup. If that’s your only experience with barley, you may be surprised to find that it’s endlessly versatile. You can cook it as a side dish, such as a barley pilaf; you can bake barley bread; you can enjoy barley porridge for breakfast; and you can even use barley flour to bake your favorite cookies.
While true whole grain barley can take 50-60 minutes to cook, it’s easy to cook a big batch then refrigerate it or freeze it until needed. Or cook it in soups, and enjoy comforting aromas simmering on the stove while you do something else.
MUSHROOM BARLEY SOUP—This classic comes from the original Moosewood Cookbook.
1/2 cup raw pearled barley
6 1/2 cups stock or stock and water combo
1 tsp. salt
3 TBS. tamari (Japanese soy sauce)
4 TBS. sherry
3 TBS. butter
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
3 cloves minced garlic
1 large onion, chopped
1 lb. sliced mushrooms
fresh ground pepper
Cook the barley in 1 1/2 cups of the stock until tender right in the soup kettle, about 45-50 minutes. Add the rest of the stock, tamari and sherry. Meanwhile, sauté the onions, garlic and thyme in a separate skillet. When softened add the mushrooms and salt. When all is tender, add to the cooked barley, keeping all of the expressed liquid. Add a generous amount of fresh pepper and simmer over the lowest heat possible. Adjust the seasonings. Serve with a crunchy warm bread and a side salad for the perfect meal! Serves 6-8.
BARLEY RISOTTO WITH ROASTED WINTER VEGETABLES—A wonderful belly-warming recipe from Cooking Light magazine, January 2007.
2 cups diced parsnips
2 cups chopped cauliflower
1 large red pepper, chopped
1 TBS olive oil, divided
1/2 tsp. pepper
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup chopped onion
4 cups chicken broth, divided
1 1/4 cups pearled barley
3/4 cup parmesan, divided
1/3 cup chopped pecans, toasted
2 TBS. minced parsley
Preheat the oven to 400º. Combine the parsnips, cauliflower, red pepper, 2 tsp. oil, paper and salt in a bowl and spread onto a foil lined, rimmed pan. Spread vegetables out in a single layer and bake 20 minutes, stirring half way through. Heat 1 tsp. oil in a large saucepan on medium high heat. Sauté the onion until browning. Add 3 cups of the broth and the barley and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer 30 minutes. Add the rest of the broth 1/2 cup at a time, bringing to a low boil, stirring constantly until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. Stir in the roasted vegetables and 1/3 cup parmesan. In a serving bowl, sprinkle with the rest of the cheese, pecans and parsley. Serves 6.
MULTIGRAIN PILAF—Yet another recipe from Cooking Light magazine from October 2007.
1 tsp. olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 1/3 cups vegetable broth
1/3 cup buckwheat groats (kasha)
1/3 cup pearled barley
1/3 cup bulgar
1/2 tsp. coarse salt
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup chopped pecans, toasted
1/8 tsp. pepper
Heat the oil in a 2 qt. saucepan over medium high heat. Cook the onion and the garlic until tender. Add the broth, kasha, barley, bulgar, salt and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, cover and reduce the heat. Simmer 15 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed. Discard the bay leaf and fluff with a fork. Stir in the pecans and pepper. Serves 7.
BEEF BARLEY SOUP WITH A KICK—This delicious and super-easy soup comes to us from www.channel3000.com.
1/2 TBS. canola oil
1 large onion, diced
3/4-1 lb. ground beef
salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp. minced garlic
6 cups chicken or beef broth, divided
1/3 cup pearled barley
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 x 14.5 oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup medium salsa
Heat oil in a large saucepan. Sauté the onions until tender. Add the ground beef and cook until browned. Season with salt and pepper and add the garlic. Cook 1 minute longer. Add 4 cups of the broth, the barley, chili powder, cumin and the beans. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and cook gently 40 minutes. Add the salsa and bring to a simmer. Add more broth to bring to desired consistence and reseason to taste. Serves 6.
BARLEY PILAF—From Everyday Food, December 2009
2 cups pearled barley
4 TBS. butter
1 medium onion, finely chopped
coarse salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
4 TBS. minced fresh parsley
2 TBS. lemon juice
Cook the barley per package instructions in salted water until al dente, about 35 minutes. Drain and rinse in cool water. In a large skillet, melt the butter on medium high heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook until tender. Add the barley and stir to combine. Transfer to a serving bowl and stir in the pine nuts, parsley and lemon juice. Reseason to taste. Serves 8.
Sources: Wikipedia & wholegrainscouncil.org
Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)
From now through spring is the time for many of us to sign up for our 2016 shares with any of the many local farms that belong to the Fairshare CSA Coalition. The pluses and benefits of receiving locally grown, organic farm product are many; including substantial rebates through many health insurance plans.
“Community Supported Agriculture consists of a community of individuals who pledge support to a farm operation so that the farmland becomes, either legally or spiritually, the community’s farm, with the growers and consumers providing mutual support and sharing the risks and benefits of food production.” (United States Dept. of Agriculture)
About Community Supported Agriculture
Typically, members of the farm purchase a share in advance, committing to the farm for the season and helping cover the initial annual costs of the farm operation. In return, members receive boxes of the farm’s produce or products throughout the growing season, as well as satisfaction gained from reconnecting to the land and being more knowledgeable of local food production.
Once harvesting begins, members pick-up a weekly box of foods which may include produce, fruits, cheeses, eggs, meats, poultry, flowers, herbs or preserves. Pick-up sites are often located at a member’s house, local businesses, or at the farm. Most farms create a newsletter that accompanies each delivery with notes about farm activities, descriptions of what’s in the delivery, cooking tips and recipes. Many farms also create opportunities for their members and families to visit the farm and participate in farm events. The typical CSA season in Wisconsin runs from the end of May through mid-October. Farms offer a diversity of share options including extended season shares, multiple share types and sizes, and special funds and payment plans to accommodate households on a tight budget. CSA farmers use sustainable and organic methods to produce high quality to reduce the impact of agriculture on the environment.
History of CSA
Today, Community Supported Agriculture is somewhat of a household term in the Upper Midwest and in many other communities throughout the United States. However, this innovative partnership between consumers and producers is a relatively recent development. The growth of the movement and its wide adoption are astounding and inspiring.
Community Supported Agriculture was developed around the concept of knowing your farmer.
The concept of CSA harks back to a time when people knew where their food came from, ate in harmony with their local seasons, and enjoyed a balanced, nutritional diet of basic, natural foods.
Community Supported Agriculture as we know it began in the early 1960′s in Germany, Switzerland, and Japan as a response to concerns about food safety and the urbanization of agricultural land (sound familiar!?). Groups of consumers and farmers in Europe formed cooperative partnerships to support farms and farming by paying the full costs of ecologically sound, socially equitable agriculture.
In 1965, mothers in Japan concerned about the rise of imported food and the loss of arable land started the first CSA projects, called “Teikei.” The Teikei movement in Japan is alive and well, along with its sister movement of cooperative networks. The largest cooperative network in Japan is called the Seikatsu Club and is made up of 600 producer-consumer groups that supply food to more than 22 million people. While Seikatsu is distinct from CSA and Teikei, all three speak of “seeing the farmer’s face on their vegetables” and shortening the supply chain to support local farmers, prioritizing environmental stewardship, and maintaining control of their local food system.
CSA began in the United States on two east coast farms in 1986. Since that time, CSA farms have been organized throughout the country with over 12,500 community supported farms serving farm fresh food in every state.
The Midwest, and the Madison area in particular, have proven to be fertile ground for CSA farms and communities. In Wisconsin, the first CSA projects began near Milwaukee and the Twin Cities in 1988. In 1996, more than 65 Wisconsin CSA farms grew food for an estimated 3,000 households. The first Madison area farms began in 1992 and by 1996 more than 4,000 area residents were CSA participants. Today, more than 25,000 area residents eat fresh food from their FairShare farm every week during the growing season.
NOVEMBER’S PLANT OF THE MONTH:
BLOOMING KALANCHOE (K. blossfeldana)
by Julie Day @ www.todayshomeowner.com
Flowering kalanchoes are staples of the holiday and florist trade, with their cheery clusters of blooms on compact, upright plants sure to brighten your windowsill. Like poinsettias and holiday cactus, kalanchoes bloom in response to the length of daylight, so they can be encouraged to bloom even during the darkest days of winter.
If you received a flowering kalanchoe as a gift this year, or if you couldn’t resist the bright midwinter color, here are some tips for keeping your plant healthy and blooming for years to come.
Everyone pronounces it differently (and nobody knows exactly who’s right), but we’ve all seen the colorful, happy flower clusters of Kalanchoe blossfeldana, or flowering Kalanchoe. A cousin to the Jade plant, flowering Kalanchoe is a fairly low-maintenance succulent house plant.
Flower heads on kalanchoe blossom in bright oranges, pinks, yellow, red, and white on a compact, upright plant about 6-12 inches tall. The flowers last several months, and the green plants are pretty year-round.
- blossfeldana is the most common variety of kalanchoe, but there are many varieties to choose from, including pendant (hanging) varieties and nonflowering varieties grown for their unique foliage. All kalanchoes have the same growing requirements.
Kalanchoe Growing Tips
Kalanchoes are pretty low-maintenance plants, thriving in the low humidity of winter households. Choose Kalanchoe plants that have plenty of unopened flower buds, rather than ones in full bloom, and be sure to give them:
—Light: Kalanchoes need lots of light, preferably a south-facing window in winter and bright indirect light (or east/west window) in summer. If your Kalanchoe plant is looking leggy and thin, it probably isn’t getting enough light.
—Soil: Kalanchoe plants do best in a well-draining potting mix designed for cacti and succulents, or stir in plenty of perlite or sand to improve drainage.
—Temperature: Kalanchoes do fine in normal household conditions, but they need to be kept away from drafts. Keep your kalanchoe above 50°F.
—Water: Over-watering is the main killer of kalanchoes! Allow your kalanchoe to get dry between waterings. Then water thoroughly until it runs out the bottom, and immediately empty the drainage tray. Never leave the plant sitting in water.
—Fertilizer: While your kalanchoe is blooming, feed it every few weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer.
—Pots: Kalanchoes do well in clay pots, and they must have a drainage tray that can be emptied. They’re small plants that don’t often have to be repotted.
—Summer care: You can put your kalanchoe outdoors in summer, but choose a spot sheltered from rain.
—Propagation: Kalanchoes are easy to propagate by stem or leaf cuttings. Some varieties will put out plantlets that can be removed and potted.
—Maintenance: Remove spent flowers to keep your kalanchoe looking neat. You may also want to wipe or gently spray them to remove dust.
How to Make Kalanchoe Bloom
Many people treat kalanchoes as an annual, throwing them away after they finish blooming. Getting them to bloom again requires some discipline, but the fun part is that once you get the hang of it, you can make your kalanchoes bloom on cue! Here are some tips for getting your kalanchoe to bloom again:
—Flowering Depends on Light: Kalanchoes are photoperiodic, which means they bloom in response to the length of day. They naturally bloom in early spring. To force your plant to set flower buds requires six weeks of simulated winter lighting conditions.
—Reduce Watering: Water half as often, or even less, during the six weeks.
—Simulate Night: For six weeks, put your plant in complete darkness for 14 hours a day, and in bright light for 10 hours a day. You can bring it in and out of a closet, or use a cover, to achieve full darkness. After six weeks or so, when you see flower buds forming, you can bring your plant back out into normal light conditions and resume watering.
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or [email protected] or Sue at [email protected]. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter. This is a great opportunity for free advertising.
33rd Annual Herb Fair
Saturday, November 7, 9:00-3:00.
The Herb Fair annually sponsored by the Madison Herb Society, reaches out to the public through lectures and demonstrations and provides an outlet for members to expand their knowledge and abilities to use herbs. Admission is free.
—Jane Hawley Stevens – Four Elements Organic Herbals, Baraboo Bluffs, Wisconsin
‘Sage and Other Herbs for Memory Function’
—Sharon Brockel – Herb Specialist at Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses in Madison
‘Herb Gardening: In and Out of the Container’
—Anna Hill – Oak Ridge Farm, Oregon, WI
‘Creating Specialty Pestos, Preserves & Suces’
For more information visit www.madisonherbsociety.org or call Chris Manke at 608/467-7785 or Linda Marx at 608/249-7717 or email to [email protected].
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Fall Garden Symposium:
Saturday, November 7, from 9:00 to 3:30
Discover how to expand your living area with an outdoor room, learn about the latest in low-care gardening, and soak up the secrets of flower design from a master.
-Joel Karsten, (Garden Speaker & Author)—‘Building an Outdoor Room’
-Michael Gaffney (Pres. of the American School of Flower Design)—‘Flower Power’
-Jeff Epping (Horticulture Director @ Olbrich)—‘Sustainable Gardens: Meadows & Gravel Gardens’
Registration is $65 for RBG members, $70 for Master Gardeners & & $75 for the General Public. Register @ rotarybotanicalgardens.org/symposium-registration
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Drive
608/752-3885 or www.rotarygardens.org
Rotary Garden’s Evening Garden Seminar: Late Season Interest
Tuesday, November 17, 6:30-8:00 p.m
Rotary Botanical Gardens, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI
Despite the often distinctive fourth season of winter in our gardens, there’s no reason that late season interest can’t add beauty to your landscape. While the days get shorter and cooler, there are plants that can extend the show by offering the last of the flowers, fall color, texture and other meritorious additions to our garden displays. Our landscapes should feature twelve months of interest so come explore some of the plants and techniques involved with maximizing late season beauty in our own home landscapes.
Admission: $7 for RBG Friends members and $10 for the general public. No registration required
Seminar is conducted by Mark Dwyer, RBG Director of Horticulture
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Drive
608/752-3885 or www.rotarygardens.org
Dane County Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, April 18 thru November 7, 6:00-2:00
On the Capitol Square
Wednesdays, April 22 thru November 4, 8:30-2:00
In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.
For details visit www.dcfm.org
NOVEMBER IN THE GARDEN—A checklist of things to do this month.
___Visit Olbrich, Rotary or Allen Centennial Gardens and note plants of fall interest for
spring planting and best selection.
___Put up all birdfeeders and fill daily as needed. Begin feeding raw suet.
___Make water available to the birds. Begin using a de-icer as needed.
___Dig new beds now! It’s easier now than in spring when super-busy.
___Continue planting spring bulbs till the ground freezes.
___Plant bulbs for forcing and put in a cool location for 10-12 weeks.
___Stop feeding houseplants and cut back on watering.
___Continue planting deciduous shrubs and trees until the ground freezes.
___Clean up stalks and leaves of annuals and vegetables, preventing viruses and pests
for next year’s garden.
___Continue harvesting brussels sprouts, kale, greens and root crops.
___Cut perennials back to 4-6”, leaving those for winter interest.
___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.
___Mow the lawn at shortest setting for last mowing of the season.
___Ready lawnmower and tiller for winter. Prep the snowblower.
___Keep gutters clear of leaves and debris.
___Clean empty pots and containers for winter storage.
___Purchase marsh hay and rose protection. Wait till the ground freezes to apply.
___Wrap trunks of susceptible trees to protect from rodents.
___Visit Klein’s—The poinsettias are just about ready. Look for end of the season savings on all remaining spring bulbs.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
Note: To receive every possible seed, plant or garden supply catalog imaginable, check out Cyndi’s Catalog of Garden Catalogs @ www.gardenlist.com. Most catalogs are free and make for great winter reading!
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
—Our employees prep the store inside and out for the upcoming holidays.
—The employees have brought to Klein’s many of their own tender plants for winter storage–one of the perks of working at a greenhouse. See some of the fascinating things we grow in our own gardens in the back of our Number 1 and 2 Showrooms.
—Wreaths, roping and pine boughs arrive mid-month from northern Wisconsin.
—Violas, hardy annuals and herbs continue to arrive for next February’s Garden Expo at the Alliant Energy Center.
—Most plant material has been ordered for the 2015 growing season. We order early to ensure you best selection in spring.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Home Decor Botanicals from Second Nature
Second Nature is celebrating 20 years of providing our customers all throughout North America with Natural Botanicals, in both fresh and dried naturals. Our fresh product is grown right here on our 70 acre farm in Ontario, Canada – the product consists of Pussy Willow, Curly Willow and Dogwoods. We import other naturals from all around the world. Our rich locally dyed colors and textures are blended into mixed bouquets and complimentary bowl fillers. We are the industry leader in creating products for our outdoor porch pots/urns.
Outdoor arrangements do not always have to be for warm climate areas. Second Nature has an assortment of botanicals for you to create your own custom containers to suit any season. Along with our summer/fall looking botanicals, we also carry products that suit the winter and holiday seasons. Build your own one of a kind, holiday themed container today!
With Second Nature, you have the ability to create your own custom container filled with an assortment of botanicals. With our wide range of products, you can put together any themed arrangement that will compliment your home. We are sure you will find exactly what you’re looking for to create the perfect arrangement.
At Second Nature, we want you to have the freedom to personalize your own arrangements. With our wide assortment of beautiful botanicals, you can build your own custom container today! We’re sure your custom arrangement can make any outdoor space pop.
Visit us at www.sndf.ca