August 1, 2016 Newsletter

 

 

 

 

Think you have the Most Beautiful Garden?  Perhaps all of that hard work and creativity can literally pay off by entering our Most Beautiful Garden Contest.  We invite you to submit photographs along with our entry form to Klein’s via e-mail or snail mail by September 1.  Winners are selected by our staff and will be announced on our website in early September.  Prizes for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places include gift cards for a Klein’s shopping spree.  We have a separate category for container gardens.     

 

They say pictures say a thousand words and sometimes the most simple of designs says more than the most elaborate.  Please visit our website at  www.kleinsfloral.com  for details and entry information.

 

 

 

 

 

Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com.  Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can.  We’ve also posted a  link to this e-mail address on our home page for your convenience.  Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter.  If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.  The Mad Gardener hopes to hear from you soon!   

 

Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion.  Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

 

Please note that our Mad Gardener is not only an expert gardener, but can answer  all of your indoor plant questions as well. 

 

 

Monday thru Friday :  8:00-6:00

Saturday:   9:00-5:00

Sunday:         10:00-4:00

 

 

 

 

Throughout August, visit Klein’s and check out our specials on perennials, shrubs (all 25% Off) and remaining annuals (Buy One, Get One Free).  Specials and selection change weekly so give us a call for the most up-to-date information at (608) 244-5661 or toll free at 888-244-5661 or on our home page @ www.kleinsfloral.com.  We pride ourselves in having the best cared for plants in even the hottest weather.

 

And later in August, watch for the appearance our fall mums, ornamental kales and cabbages, mixed fall containers and cool weather vegetables, including;  chard, kale, lettuces and cole crops.  We still have a nice selection of seeds for the fall vegetable garden, including;  radishes, spinach, lettuce and SO much more!

 

Week of August 14–Watch for the arrival of our semi-load of indoor houseplants.  Select from all shapes and sizes; from tropicals to succulents.  The showrooms become a veritable jungle overnight.

 

August 18–Full Moon

 

September 5–Labor Day.  Special Store Hours:  10:00-4:00

 

 

 

 

 

—When ordering floral gifts, describe the recipient’s personality type, as well as his/her favorite hobbies or colors if you know them. Klein’s designers (Darcy, Sue, Michaela or Bonnie) can match the floral arrangement with the recipient’s personality.

 

—Tell us if the gift is for a special occasion (birthday, anniversary or other personal milestone). We can offer suggestions on how to best celebrate with flowers.

 

—If the flowers are for decorating or entertaining, describe the environment where the arrangement will be placed so our designer can create an arrangement that complements the style and colors of of the event. 

 

—Consider bringing in your own vase or container for an added personal touch.

 

—Ask us for specific colors or color themes.

 

—Let Klein’s know if you prefer a mixed flower arrangement or an arrangement made up of just one type of flower.

 

—Be ready to provide us with the necessary basic information:

◦Name

◦Full address and phone number of the recipient

◦The delivery date

◦Your card message.  See below for some common card message options.

◦Payment information

 

Whether sending flowers across the country or around the corner, Klein’s provides the expertise, convenience and service today’s on-the-go consumers are looking for.

 

 

•Celebrating you!

•Wishing you a year filled with the same joy you bring to others!

•Hoping your wishes come true year after year.

•Like a fine wine, you improve each year.

•The day you were born is a daily celebration.

•Wishing you a very happy birthday . . . and many more!

•You’re not getting older, you’re getting better.

•May today be filled with sunshine and smiles, laughter and love.

•Love on your birthday and everyday.

•Enjoy this gift that’s as beautiful as the birthday girl herself.

 

•Hoping these flowers brighten not only your room, but your heart.

•Loving thoughts are tucked inside this bundle of flowers!

•Good health starts with a happy heart. Hope these flowers start the job!

•Hope you’re back on your feet soon.

•Hoping that you’ll bloom again soon.

•Sending you healing thoughts and a little sunshine to brighten your day.

•Sending you some get well cheer!

•To brighten your day!

•Loving relief for your aches and pains.

•Wishing you a speedy recovery.

•We miss you! Come back soon!

•Hope you’re feeling better soon.

 

•All my love.

•Love and kisses.

•You take my breath away…today and every day.

•With you it’s Valentine’s Day 365 days a year.

•I send a kiss inside the petals of each rose…

•You are the love of my life.

•You are the reason I’m alive.

•”True love is friendship set on fire.” (French Proverb)

•Roses are red, violets are blue, what would I do without you!?

•Always and forever.

•I wish there were more ways to say all that you are to me. Love always.

•My heart is filled with love for you.

•Flowers today. Fireworks tonight!

•I usually tell you “I love you” two or three times a day. Today I’ll make it a dozen.

•How sweet it is to be loved by you!

•If actions speak louder than words, this is my way of shouting.

•I don’t need a holiday to say I love you.

•I’m delivering you a kiss to last all week.

 

•Congratulations! May your baby be blessed, his/her road forward a blessed adventure!

•We share in your celebration of the new life you created!

•We welcome your dear new child to this world with love.

•Congratulations, and enjoy the years together!

•A little one brings so much fun!

•Enjoy this special time!

•Babies are special, babies are fun, congratulations on your new little one!

•Welcome to the family!

•I’m not an expert on babies yet, but I sure can take care of Mom!

•Another miracle in this world. Welcome!

 

•Please know our loving thoughts embrace you.

•Please accept these flowers and hear the words we are not able to speak.

•My thoughts and prayers are with you.

•Thinking of you in these difficult times.

•May the peace that comes from the memories of love shared comfort you now and in the days ahead.

•Our hearts are filled with sorrow.

•We’re sharing your sorrow.

•With deepest sympathy.

•In loving memory.

•With heartfelt condolences.

•Fondest remembrances.

•May you take comfort in knowing there is one more angel above us.

•You are in our thoughts and prayers.

 

Source:  The Society of American Florists website @ aboutflowers.com

 

 

 

 

Hi Ginger,

Your brugmansia is right on track.  It shouldn’t bloom for about a month yet–usually the end of July or the beginning of August (question sent July 1).  The timing is completely weather based in that they need hot and sunny weather. I have at least a dozen potted brugmansias (some of them 20 years old) and none of mine are showing any signs of forming flower buds at this time. Though we’ve had a few very warm days so far this summer, we haven’t had the intense heat that they relish.

 

If your brugmansia was new last season, it wouldn’t be unusual for it not to flower the first year or two as it roots out.  Once rootbound is when they bloom best.  Make sure your plant is in full sun (a minimum of 6 hours) and, yes, keep it well-watered.  Be careful of over fertilizing in that doing so puts energy into new growth rather than flowering.

 

In short, be patient and send me a new pic in mid-August!

 

Thanks for your question,

Klein’s Mad Gardener

 

 

 

 

Like many of the beautiful annual flowers in your garden, annual weeds go through their entire life cycle in a single season.  By eliminating them before they flower and set seed, you’ve won half the battle.

 

As with most annuals, annual weed seeds lie dormant during the winter months, ready to sprout with the onset of spring and summer (though there are a few that  actually sprout in the fall).  They spend the summer months growing and blooming, relying on pollinators or the wind to spread their pollen from plant to plant in order to set seed for the next season.  The seeds usually drop nearby,  are spread by the wind or by animals such as birds, rodents and even humans.  Once dropped to the soil, they lie dormant until the following season.  There are some weeds that go through multiple life cycles in a single growing season.

 

Unlike our perennial weeds, which often times spread via runners or below ground roots, recognizing the emerging growth of garden annual weeds isn’t quite as urgent.  As long as any particular plant is eradicated before it flowers or sets seed, the plant will be unable to reproduce itself for the following season.  It may take a few seasons to eliminate a particular weed from your garden.  Seeds can lie dormant for many years and may sprout once brought nearer the surface.  New plants can also spread into your garden from neighboring gardens or farm fields.  But with a few seasons of diligence, a few of your peskiest garden weeds can be gone forever.  Learning about and recognizing these annual weeds will make the task far easier.  

 

Common annual weeds that appear in nearly all Madison area gardens include:  

 

Bindweed

Black Medic

Chickweed

Crabgrass

Groundsel

Knotweed

Lamb’s Quarters

Nettle  

Pigweed

Purslane

Spotted Spurge

Wood Sorrel (Yellow Oxalis)

 

 

 

 

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future.  Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know.  Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and  to our loyal clientele.  If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store.  In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time. 

 

 

 

Wallaroo Hat Company was founded by Stephanie Carter and Lenya Shore in April 1999 after they discovered the Australian secret to sun protection with style: colorful UPF 50+ crushable fabric hats.

 

They began wearing them around Boulder, a city known for its outdoor lifestyle and more than 300 sunny days each year.

 

It wasn’t long before friends and family wanted to know where they got their colorful sun protection. The team discovered that nothing was available in the U.S. that compared to these UPF-rated fashion “finds” from Australia. Carter and Shore began importing small quantities, quickly realized their potential, and launched Wallaroo Hat Company.

 

Wallaroo Hat Company has continued to expand its selection by bringing back favorites and designing new styles and collections each year. With more than 15 years under their belt, Shore and Carter now sell their hats to many resorts, boutiques, outdoor retailers, gardening stores, and catalogs.

 

Wallaroo Hat Company is based in Boulder, Colorado. The company has been awarded the “Best of Denver” from Westword magazine and was listed as a Top Women-Owned Business in the Daily Camera. Wallaroo has been committed to making charitable contributions over the past 15 years, including such organizations as the Skin Cancer Foundation, Melanoma Research Foundation, Shade Foundation, Melanoma International, Avon Breast Cancer 3 Day and American Cancer Society Relay for Life. 

 

You can’t beat our UPF 50+ rating. Fabrics are tested by the Australian Radiation Protection Agency and block 97.5% of the sun’s ultroviolet rays. Ultraviolet radiation, or UV, is present in sunlight. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) shows how well a fabric protects your skin from solar UV. But remember, a Wallaroo hat only protects the skin it covers. Safeguard the rest of your body by wearing sunglasses and sunscreen.

 

 

For more information, please check out Wallaroo’s website at www.wallaroohats.com/ 

 

 

 

 

 

A NOTE: With my own garden now in full swing, with family here from out of state and with some much needed vacation time, July has been one crazy month. Therefore, I’m sharing with you important gardening tips and reminders from past newsletters this month.

 

Plant maintenance is a regular part of my daily routine as we head into the dog days of summer.  Plants are growing quickly now and blooming is fast and furious.  The early summer annuals and perennials are now past their prime, looking a bit ragged and going into seed.  It was time this morning to get out there, do a bit of deadheading and give many of my annuals their “summer cut”. 

 

Each mid-July I give many of my potted annuals a drastic “haircut”.  Doing so, along with regular fertilizing, revitalizes them for the rest of the growing season.  Pruning them back accomplishes a number of tasks all at once–namely deadheading, ridding the plants of gangly growth and pinching them for renewed branching.  The new branching means increased flowering in the weeks to come.   Petunias and calibrachoas respond particularly well to being cut back by up to 75%.  It seems like a lot, but in just a few weeks the now bushy plants will be loaded with fresh blossoms on bright green foliage.  Plants that respond well to a moderate (25-30%) pruning include geraniums, coleus, salvia, zinnias, pentas, nicotiana and many others.  With these, I prune out heavy branches and essentially reshape the plants.  And some annuals I avoid pruning all together.  These include many of the woody annuals whose growth rate is much slower.  Were I to cut back my lantana, bougainvillea, angel’s trumpets, oleander or hibiscus this late in the season I might not see any blooms for the rest of the summer.      

 

 

One of the more common questions I’m asked as neighbors and friends visit my garden is how I can possibly keep all of my containers looking so healthy from spring until fall.  My simple answer is I FERTILIZE, FERTILIZE & FERTILIZE!  Starting about now (late June) each year I begin a rigid schedule of fertilizing all of my containers every two weeks (give or take a few days depending on the weather).  Many experts recommend weekly fertilizing, but with experience, I’ve found every second week to be adequate.  The key to my success is using a calendar or my garden journal in planning the fertilizing schedule.  Doing so ensures that I actually do this most important of garden tasks.   

 

I fertilize my containers in a cycle of three beginning in mid-June using a water soluble, all-purpose fertilizer like Jack’s, Schultz’s or Miracle-Gro. An all-purpose fertilizer is higher in nitrogen to promote vigorous and rich green growth.  It’s very important to closely follow the recommended rates on the box for outdoor plants.  I repeat the process again two weeks later–again, using the same all-purpose to encourage strong new growth.  But every third watering I now use one of three fertilizers based on the plant and intended results.  For my foliage containers (coleus, palms, elephant’s ears, bananas, houseplants, etc.), I continue using an all-purpose fertilizer for vigorous growth and healthy color.  For the vast majority of my blooming containers (and vegetables), I now use a high in phosphorous “bloom booster” for added flower power, making sure to closely follow the instructions.  Without a bloom booster, flowering typically slows for most annuals as the summer progresses and as the plant spends its energy.  That said, for my petunias, calibrachoas, gerbers and certain other plants that tend to yellow, I instead use a fertilizer higher in acid, such as Jack’s Petunia Feed or Mir-acid.  For these plants, the acid in the fertilizer helps prevent bare and woody stems and the typical yellowing foliage as the season progresses.  

 

In two weeks, the cycle begins again until about mid-September when all fertilizing should stop or be cut back for any plants intended for overwintering.  As an added note, I’ve found that fertilizing is most effective if the soil is slightly moist.  Not only do the plants take up the fertilizer more quickly and efficiently, but less is wasted.  If the soil is overly dry, much of the fertilizer is lost as the water quickly runs through and out of the pots.  

 

 

Along with watering and weeding, I really enjoy staking plants.  Years of experience have taught me that a staked plant now decreases the chances of an unhappy gardener down the road.  Sometimes I’ve gotten lazy or just haven’t had the time to get the staking done, only to have a late season downpour and strong winds topple my summer’s worth of work.  Now I diligently do my staking like clockwork–the first ones are always my tall daturas, then the peppers in containers, next are the tall cosmos, sunflowers, kiss-me-over-the-garden-gate and tithonia.  I always do my zinnias around the Fourth of July.  Next will be my tall salvias, rudbeckia and, of course, the meadow blazing star and annual milkweeds.  I keep their heads held high for the influx of monarch butterflies that await them.  Friends can’t believe the amount of time I spend staking plants.  I, on the other hand, see it as an intimate moment with each plant.  It gives me the chance to spend a moment with its individual beauty.  The more plants you stake, the faster the task becomes.  

 

I use simple and inexpensive bamboo stakes and a spool of twist ties for individual stems (kite string if the plant is bushy or multi-stemmed).  I place the stem in the middle of my length of twist tie, make a loose figure “8”, twisting the stake tightly into the opposite part of the “8” so it doesn’t slide down the plant.  It’s far easier than it sounds and is truly worth the time spent!

 

 

 

KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff.  New recipes appear monthly.  Enjoy!!

 

Unlike their winter counterparts, summer squashes are eaten skin and all.  Of the summer squashes, zucchinis are exceptionally versatile.  They can be eaten raw in salads or cooked in soups, stews, casseroles, breads, or on their own sautéed in olive oil with a little salt and pepper.  Zucchini production in the garden is a sure sign that summer is here and once plants start producing, there’s no shortage of zucchini for weeks to come.  It’s always good to have a number of zucchini recipes on hand awaiting the influx.  Fresh zucchini does not store well and should be used within a few days of harvest.  

 

The following zucchini recipes all use a large amount of zucchini in their preparation.  All are tried-and-true favorites of Klein’s staff members.

 

 

SUPER EASY ZUCCHINI QUICK DISH—This simple concoction appears in From Asparagus to Zucchini: A Guide to Farm-Fresh Seasonal Produce.  You can be very creative with this family favorite.

 

Simply fill a very large frying pan with chunks of onion, summer squash, bell pepper, tomatoes, eggplant (optional) and salt and pepper to taste.  Add garlic, fresh basil and/or some chile peppers to ramp up the flavor. Toss together with a bit of olive oil.  Cover the pan and allow the veggies to simmer in their own juices until everything is very tender, verging on mushy, stirring occasionally.  Reseason to taste.  Serve as a side warm or at room temperature.  Delicious over pasta. 

 

AMAZING ZUCCHINI SOUP—This recipe appeared in the Wisconsin State Journal just weeks ago on July 13.  Our Klein’s staff member this is already a family favorite and is excellent for dipping an artisan crusty bread.

4 lbs. zucchini cut into 1/2”-1” cubes

2 TBS. olive oil

t tsp. dried thyme

2 large onions, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

1 medium jalapeño, or similar, minced

4 cloves minced garlic

2x 32 oz. cartons chicken or vegetable broth

salt & pepper to taste

1/2 cup or more fresh, coarsely chopped basil

Parmesan

 

Heat the oil in a large soup pot on medium heat.  Add the onion, carrot and thyme with a little salt and cook until tender.  Add the jalapeño and the garlic and cook one minute more. Add the broth and the zucchini and season lightly with salt and a generous amount of pepper.  Heat to a boil.  Reduce, cover and simmer30 minutes or until the zucchini is very tender.  Remove from the heat.  Using an immersion blender, blend the soup until smooth (or blend in batches in a blender; returning the soup to the pot). Readjust the seasoning as desired.  Serve in bowls sprinkled with parmesan.  Serves 12 (makes 16 cups).

 

STEAMED ZUCCHINI WITH HERB SAUCE— This recipe appeared in the September 2007 issue of Cooking Light magazine.  

1/4 cup parsley

3 TBS. finely chopped onion

1 TBS. chopped fresh basil

1 TBS. chopped capers

2 tsp. lemon zest

1/4 tsp. dried oregano

2 tsp. extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp. lemon juice

1/4 tsp. coarse salt

6 cups, 1/4” zucchini slices

 

Combine all ingredients, except the zucchini, in a large bowl.  Steam the zucchini slices 4 minutes or until tender crisp.  Add the cooked slices to the bowl and toss gently to coat.  Serves 4.

 

ROAST ZUCCHINI, ONION AND PEPPERS—Delicious and SO easy.  From Martha Stewart’s Everyday Food of May 2005.

3 lbs. zucchini cut into 1” thick rounds

2 red peppers cut into 1” pieces

1 medium onion cut into 1/2” wedges

2 TBS. olive oil

2 tsp. coarse salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

 

Preheat oven to 475º.  In a bowl, combine the veggies, oil, salt and pepper.  Place the mixture on to a large, rimmed baking sheet sprayed with cooking spray.  Roast until tender and browned in spots for 30-35 minutes.  Serves 6-8.

 

SMOKY GRILLED ZUCCHINI—Another recipe from the Wisconsin State Journal from June 2014.

3 medium zucchini

1 TBS. olive oil

1/2 tsp. coarse salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

1 tsp. smoked paprika

2 tsp. brown sugar

fresh lime slices

 

Heat a grill to medium-high heat.  Cut the zucchinis lengthwise then rub with the olive oil.  In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, paprika and sugar.  Sprinkle over the zucchini.  Grill until tender and charred, about 5-7 minutes per side.  Serve with lime slices.  Serves 6.

 

 

 

 

Deadheading, removing spent blooms, should be done throughout the growing season.  But by midseason, many of your plants probably need a good cleanup, beginning with a thorough deadheading.

 

Most flowering plants, annuals, perennials and some flowering shrubs, will benefit from removing the dead blooms.  Some continue to produce new blooms whether you deadhead or not, but many will not continue to flower unless you deadhead.  A flowering plant’s sole purpose is to reproduce.  All its’ energy is focused on producing flowers, which in most cases develop into seeds.  If the “dead” (they really aren’t dead, the seeds inside the flower are still developing) or “spent” blooms are removed, some plants divert their energy to plant growth, or starts over with the flowering process.  If the seeds are allowed to mature, they may drop to the ground and grow more plants, or some gardeners collect them for propagation later.  Some plants, like certain rose varieties, will develop brightly colored hips from the blooms.  By autumn these hips add new color and interest to the garden.  In the case of blooms that produce colorful fall hips or berries, you may prefer to allow them to develop rather than deadhead the last  flush of blooms.

 

In addition to encouraging additional blooming, deadheading will refresh your garden.  Dead blooms will soon blanket your garden with unappealing brown and shriveled flowers, becoming quite unsightly.  And by midseason, many annuals and perennials become overgrown, gangly and just plain messy looking.  A thorough midseason deadheading, and some trimming of overgrown and sun damaged foliage, will bring new life to your garden.  In no time at all you will have new blooms and bright new foliage growth.  When in doubt, deadhead – you cannot do more harm than good.

 

Before getting into which plants should be deadheaded and when, the first question to address is how?  Taking a very simplified approach, look at your plant and decide “what would be the easiest way to remove the blooms”.  Most often that will be, if not THE right way if there is such a thing, a perfectly adequate way.  Do keep in mind that when you remove a bloom, an empty stem sticking out of the plant is not much prettier than a shriveled up bloom.  So for plants that produce a bloom on a long stem, you may want to remove that stem either completely to it’s base, or at least to the level of the foliage.  Deadheading methods are pretty simple, and some of your deadheading is eliminated by just cutting flowers to bring inside for a vase.

 

Pinching – the same way you pinch back a plant stem to a pair of leaves to encourage bushier growth.  Grasp the stem between your thumb and forefinger below the flower head, and just above a set of leaves. Pinch the stem between your fingers to break off the stem.  (This is a bit more efficient with a bit of fingernails, but you can “snap” the stem off with a quick bend too.)  If you would also like to trim back the plant a bit, remove up to half the stem just above a set of leaves instead of just under the bloom.

 

Snap – plants that bear blooms on top of long stems will usually snap off easily.  Follow the stem with your fingers all the way to the base and snap off with a quick downward bend.  The stem does need to be strong to snap cleanly though, if you try it on a plant that just bends or tears, you will need to snip them off with a pruner to get a clean cut.    

Snip – make a clean cut with hand pruner.  Cut anywhere below the spent bloom: at the first set of leaves to just remove the bloom; or further down the stem just above a set of leaves or where another stem joins to trim the plant back.  This usually works well when the stem is tough or woody and when you want precise, clean cuts as with roses.

 

Shear – plants with many delicate blooms covering the plant are easiest to deadhead with a grass shears.  Removing individual blooms as they shrivel can be extremely tedious.  Using a grass shears will make quick work of the job, and you can shear back the entire plant if it has become overgrown.  If you wait until all blooms have died, the plant will probably have become pretty scraggly looking.  But even if you shear earlier and lose some fresh blooms, many annuals and perennials will rebloom soon anyway, and your garden will look much fresher in the meantime.

 

Some plants produce colorful hips, berries or seeds that attract birds.  Some just have interesting dried flower heads that will add to your winter garden.  You may not want to deadhead these plants, wait until early spring to trim back if you prefer:

 

Ornamental Grasses – interesting seed heads

Allium – interesting seed pods

Aster

Astilbe

Clematis – many have interesting seed pods

Coneflower (Rudbeckia and Echinacea) – will, however, self seed profusely

Liatris

Oriental Poppy

Sedum

Yarrow

 

 

-Achillea – responds well to deadheading, will self seed if not deadheaded (pinch, snip or shear)

-Alyssum – will increase bloom, but will continue to bloom adequately and without looking unsightly, without deadheading (shear)

-Ageratum – will increase bloom (pinch)

-Bachelor’s Buttons – may self seed if not deadheaded.  (pinch or shear)

-Begonia, tuberous – female flowers only will rebloom (pinch)

-Bleeding Heart – will encourage longer bloom (pinch or snip)

-Calendula (pinch or snip)

-Campanula – will rebloom (snip, pinch or shear)

-Campanula, white and blue clips – will increase bloom, and may reseed, sometime profusely, without deadheading. (shear)

-Canna – may only have a single blooming in cold climates.  Remove only the spent flower, additional buds may be forming below it on the stalk. (snip – only when buds have ceased to form.)

-Centaurea Montana – remove blooms only, buds will continue to set along stem. Remove the entire stem when all buds have bloomed and faded.

-Cleome, Spider Flower – will self seed profusely without deadheading (pinch)

-Coleus – pinch out flower stalks if you like, this is a personal preference.

-Columbine – will self seed if not deadheaded.   (snip)

-Coral Bells, Huechera – will rebloom (pinch, snip or shear)

-Coreopsis – will rebloom (pinch, snip or shear)

-Cosmos – will respond very well to deadheading.  Pinch back half to two thirds of the stems if you prefer to keep the plant compact.  May self seed profusely, perhaps even with deadheading. (pinch or snip)

-Daisy – will increase bloom (snap, snip or shear)

-Dames Rocket – will rebloom (snip)

-Daylily – will increase bloom, but don’t cut the entire stalk.  New buds may be forming below spend blooms.  Snip only the spent bloom. (snip)

-Dianthus – will increase bloom (shear)

-Dianthus barbatus, Sweet William – will self seed if not deadheaded.  (snip or shear)

-Fernleaf Yarrow – will rebloom.  May self seed if not deadheaded (pinch or snip)

-Feverfew – will rebloom (pinch or snip)

-Flax – will rebloom (pinch snip or shear)

-Gallardia – responds well to deadheading.  May self seed profusely without deadheading. (snip or shear)

-Geraniums -Annual Pelargonium (snap)

-Delphinium – will rebloom (snip)

-Echinacea – will self seed profusely without deadheading (snap, pinch, snip or shear)

-Heliotrope (snip)

-Iris – Reblooming Iris only (snap or snip)

-Lantana (pinch)

-Lavandula, Lavender – (shear)

-Lupine – will rebloom (snip)

-Marigolds – responds very well to deadheading (pinch)

-Mirabilis, Four o’Clocks – will self seed profusely unless deadheaded (pinch or shear)

-Monarda – responds well to deadheading (snip or pinch)

-Mums (snip, pinch or shear)

-Nasturtium (pinch)

-Nicotinia – will increase bloom, will reseed if not deadheaded.  Deadhead periodically to keep the plant looking neat.  (snip)

-Nigella, Love in Mist – will self seed profusely without deadheading ( shear)

-Pansy – responds very well to deadheading. Pinch back long stems midseason.  (pinch)

-Petunias – will continue to rebloom without deadheading, but deadheading will encourage fuller plants with MORE reblooming. Pinch back long stems periodically to keep the plants compact.  (pinch, or just pull off the dried bloom)

-Phlox – will rebloom.  May reseed without deadheading (snip or shear)

-Platycodon, Balloon Flower – remove individual flowers as spent, being careful not to remove developing buds.  (snip or pinch)

-Roses – NOT ALL will rebloom.  (snip)

-Rudbeckia – responds very well to deadheading (snip or snap)

-Salvia, perennial (pinch)

-Scabiosa – responds very well to deadheading (snip or shear)

-Snapdragon – may reseed if not deadheaded (shear)

-Sunflower (snip)

-Threadleaf Coreopsis (shear)

-Veronica – will rebloom (snip or pinch)

-Zinnia – responds very well to deadheading (snap)

 

Deadheading will NOT produce an additional blooming on these plants.  Some of these plants only bloom once, even if deadheaded and some will rebloom WITHOUT deadheading (deadheading may, however, improve the appearance of the plant):

 

-All Flowering Bulbs bloom only once.  Remove only the flower stem after blooming, allow the foliage to die back naturally before removing.

-Artemesia – will not rebloom, but deadheading will allow the plants energy to revive foliage, which often deteriorates after blooming.

-Astilbe – will not rebloom, but dried seedheads are attractive

-Bearded Iris – will not rebloom (snip)

-Begonia, fibrous – self cleaning and continuously bloom

-Calibrachoa (million bells) – continues bloom without deadheading

-Hosta – will not rebloom.

-Impatiens – self clean and continuously bloom

-Lamb’s Ears – will not rebloom, but deadheading will allow the plants energy to revive foliage, which often deteriorates after blooming.

-Lilac – will not rebloom, but must be removed immediately after blooming.  Next year’s flower buds are set just after current years’ bloom.

-Lobelia – self cleaning and continuously bloom.  Prune back long stems midseason if you like.

-Moss Rose – self cleaning

-Ornamental Grasses -dried seedheads are attractive and attract birds

-Peonies – will not rebloom

-Periwinkle – pinch back long stems midseason to keep the plant neat.

-Petunia: the Wave; Surfinia and Fantasy- self cleaning, continues bloom.  Pinch back long stems periodically to keep the plants compact.

-Poppies, Oriental – will not rebloom, but California Poppy will self seed profusely if not deadheaded (shear)

-Rhododendron- will not rebloom.  If you want to remove spent flowers, remove only the bloom, pinching off by hand carefully.  New growth has begun to develop right behind it.

-Verbena – self cleaning and continuously bloom

 

Be careful about your late summer bloomers when doing a mid season cleanup.  If you cut back to control growth in July, you may forfeit August and September flowers on the late season bloomers.  These should be pinched back to control size or encourage dense growth in June.  Reducing a plants size by half to two-thirds early in the growing season will often result in more, but smaller blooms.  If the plant typically gets so tall that it must be staked, this may be effective in eliminating the need for staking.

 

 

 

 

 

Hops are a lovely, yet vigorous, vine that continue to grow in popularity in the Madison area; both as a quick growing ornamental or for the production of hops in beer making.  Klein’s offers up to five hop varieties as potted plants in the springtime.  While all produce the trademark hop flowers, Golden and Bianca hops are used ornamentally; whereas Nugget, Cascade and Willamette are used in the production of beer.

 

Select an area with plenty of sun. Hops need at least 6-8 hours of sun a day, so the South facing side of your home or an exposed site is a good location. Hop vines (called bines) can grow to over 25 feet and weigh over 20 pounds, so vertical space for a trellis is important as well.

 

Hops prefer well-aerated soil that is rich in nutrients and has good drainage. If you are going to plant several varieties, keep them well separated in your garden. Hop roots will spread quickly and take over the garden unless you separate them and trim the roots each season.

 

Hops should be planted in the spring, late enough to avoid a frost. Fertilize liberally before planting. Plant your hops in a mound and aerate the ground by turning it over several times to aid drainage, enhance growth and prevent disease. Place the rhizomes about 4 inches deep, and make your mound of soil about a foot high to aid drainage. Place the root side of the rhizome down. Cover the mound with some straw or light mulch to inhibit the weeds.

 

The hop bines grow vertically and require some kind of trellis. Your trellis could some heavy rope or twine going from ground level to your roof, or a few poles securely mounted in the ground. If using rope, select rough twine-like rope so the bines can grab onto it. Keep in mind that the hop bines can be 25+ feet long and weigh 20+ pounds. The trellis should be strong and secure.

 

Hops also enjoy lots of water and sunlight. In the dry climates or the heat of summer, they may need to be watered daily. Once the hops begins to grow, select the best bines and wrap them around your trellis to train them. You will need to train the hops for a few days, but eventually they will begin growing in a clockwise direction from east to west around your trellis. Train the best shoots and trim the rest off.

 

Your hops will continue to grow throughout the summer, and will be ready to harvest by late summer. The harvest in the first year may not be huge, and in fact it could be very small – hops don’t reach peak yield in the first year.

 

To determine when to harvest, you need to examine the cones. Mature hop cones will be dry to the touch, springy, have a very strong aromatic hop odor, and leave yellow lupulin powder on your fingers. Check the cones every day or two, and when you think they are ripe, pick one and open it. It should be filled with thick yellow-gold lupulin powder if it is fully ripened.

 

The hops may not all ripen at once, but you need to harvest each as it ripens. Dry the hops out in a warm dry spot in your house, and keep them away from sunlight. Sunlight can seriously damage picked hops. A paper bag is a good place to store them while drying. The hops should dry out in a week or two. After that, place them in a sealed bag and store the hop cones in your freezer. Remove as much oxygen as possible from the bag to avoid oxidization.

 

Cut the bines back to 3 feet or so after harvesting. The winter frost will kill off the bines, after which you can cut them back further and cover them until Spring. When Spring comes, take a spade and cut around the rhizome to trim the roots back to about a foot. Trimming the roots will prevent the hops from consuming your entire garden, as they tend to spread rapidly. Add some fertilizer, fresh mulch and a new trellis and you will be ready to grow hops for a fresh new season.

 

A properly cared-for hops garden will keep you in fresh hops for years to come.

 

Note: Hops can be dangerous for dogs to consume so please don’t feed your pets hops.

 

 

By Judith Reith-Rozelle

 

The 1860s saw “an unbounded zeal” in Wisconsin hop production, according to the Milwaukee Sentinel in 1867, when Wisconsin was growing 75 percent of the nation’s hops. The state’s brewing industry demanded hops at a time when wheat prices were declining, prompting many farmers to grow hops instead. The hop market crashed soon thereafter, but the boom-time infusion of cash helped establish a strong agricultural base in Wisconsin.

 

The Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy is believed to have grown some of the first hops in Sauk County, which became the epicenter of the Wisconsin hops craze. But the Count’s true love was grapes, and alongside hops he planted vineyards that were to become the heart of Wollersheim Winery, Wisconsin’s largest. Seeking a warmer climate for grape growing, Haraszthy moved to California, where he became a pioneer of the state’s wine industry.

 

3. And a pot connection as well. 

The hop is a member of the Cannabis family. As its scientific name (Humulus lupulus) indicates, hops contain the chemical lupulone, which is a mild sedative. Long before the plant’s female flowers were used to provide flavor and aroma in beer, they served a medicinal purpose as a sedative and digestive aid (pillows filled with the flowers, for example, were used to induce sleep).

 

Wisconsin breweries purchase most of their hops from that region. Washington state leads the pack, growing 77 percent of the nation’s hops.

 

In Iowa, Sauk, Grant and Dane counties people are buying land and planting hops again. Gorst Valley Hops, near Black Earth, has developed a charter growers program, a cooperative of sorts for hop growers. In northern Wisconsin, many of the smaller brewpubs and microbreweries are beginning to grow their own hops—an example is the South Shore Brewery in Ashland. As you drive around the state, look for tall poles in long lines across a field. It could mean that hops are happening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thru August 7

Daily from 10:00-4:00

In the Bolz Conservatory

 

Experience the wonder of strolling through a tropical forest on a search for fleeting butterflies. Live butterflies emerge from chrysalises daily in the Bolz Conservatory. Olbrich’s Blooming Butterflies is a great adventure for people of all ages. Children can visit stamping stations in the outdoor gardens with their Butterfly Passport while learning fun facts. Tour the outdoor gardens and visit the Growing Gifts shop. The cost is $7 for adults, $3 for children ages 12 and under, and free for children under 2. Olbrich Botanical Society members are admitted free. Parking is free. Bus tours are welcome; groups of 15 or more must register by calling 608/246-4550.  The Bolz Conservatory will be closed Monday, July 11 and Tuesday, July 12 in preparation for Olbrich’s Blooming Butterflies.

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

 

 

Enjoy the summer evening with a concert on the Great Lawn of Olbrich’s outdoor gardens. A wide variety of music is highlighted, including jazz, folk, honky-tonk, and much more. Olbrich’s Summer concerts are Tuesdays, June 21 – July 26 at 7 p.m. with special performances August 2 and August 9. A $2 admission donation is suggested. 

 

Olbrich Concerts in the Gardens 2016 Schedule:  

(All concerts are on Tuesdays at 7 p.m.)

 

Madison Public Library Summer Reading Program Concert. Performer TBA.  Open to the public

 

Fresco Opera-Opera Made Fresh.  Live opera performances in different locations throughout the Gardens. Stand and stroll concert viewing; no seating provided.

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

 

 

Add a little bit of musical enjoyment to your Sunday afternoons this summer with Summer Sundays: Concerts in the Garden. This new concert series will feature some of the best musical groups in Madison ranging from classical to jazz chamber music. The concerts will be held alternating Sunday afternoons starting June 26 and ending September 22, from 4 p.m. to 5:30p.m. in our English Garden.

 

This event is free and open to the public. Brought to you by the Friends of Allen Centennial Garden.

 

Willy Street Chamber Players—Fun and sassy chamber music by one of Madison’s newest groups, bringing a fresh, imaginative take to classical music

 

Clocks in Motion—Groundbreaking percussion ensemble serves up virtuosic performances that include theater and art, and consistently offer a joyous entertainment experience.

 

Harmonious Wail—An infectious blend of continental jazz, swing, gypsy music and melodic vocals.

 

Paul Muench Quartet—Imaginative improvisations and creative modern arrangements of timeless jazz standards.

 

Allen Centennial Gardens

620 Babcock Dr. on the University of WI campus, Madison

608/576-2501 or allencentennialgarden.org for details.

 

 

August 8 thru October 30, 2016

Daily from 10:00-4:00

In the Bolz Conservatory

 

Beneficial insects have been used in the Conservatory since it opened in 1991. These bugs provide control of plant-damaging insects, minimizing the need of more dangerous traditional insecticides. These controls, along with several others, are part of the Conservatory’s Integrated Pest Management (IPM) program. This widely accepted program strives to use the least toxic method of insect and disease control to be more environmentally sensitive. Learn about Olbrich’s environmentally friendly pest control methods and get ideas you can use to reduce or eliminate pesticide use at home.

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

 

 

Wednesday, August 10, 7:00-8:30 p.m.

 

Susan Carpenter, native plant gardener, will focus on color, size, and features of native grasses, from tiny mustache grass to big bluestem. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.

 

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

 

 

Friday & Saturday, August 12 & 13.

Events begin at 1:00 on Friday.

 

Friday afternoon we will be touring Boerner Botanical Garden’s Herb and Rose Gardens with horticulturist Peggy Gibbs-Zautke, then after, Bill Radler, developer of the famous Knock-Out roses, will tour us around his beautiful two acre garden. Following the tours, there will be dinner at Thunder Bay Grille followed by crafts.

 

Saturday will have three wonderful speakers, a breakfast snack, and later a catered lunch, with silent auction items, and some vendors for you to visit.

 

 

 

Saturday, August 20, 10:00-2:00

West Madison Agricultural Research Station

8502 Mineral Point Road

Verona, WI 53593

 

Mark your calendars for August 20th for an open house at UW-Madison’s West Madison Ag Research Station. The display gardens will be holding their annual summer event from 10am-2pm in which the public is invited to tour the outstanding collections of flowers, vegetables, and fruit.

 

This year’s trials and demonstrations include nearly 300 cultivars of annual and perennial flowers and one of the biggest displays of coleus in the Midwest. Nearly 200 different cultivars of vegetables and many cultivars of cold-hardy table and wine grapes are also on display.

 

—Taste the garden’s fresh fruits and vegetables

—View displays of hundreds of cultivars of flowers, vegetables and grapes

—Pollinator exhibits

—Fun activities for families and kids

—University & Extension experts will be attending to share their knowledge & answer questions.

 

The West Madison Agricultural Research Station is located at 8502 Mineral Point Road, about a mile west of the beltline on the north side of the road.  Admission and parking are free.

 

 

 

Saturday, August 20, 10:00-4:00

Sunday, August 21, 11:00-3:00

Sponsored by the Wisconsin Daylily Society

For info call 608/221-1933 or visit www.wisdaylilysoc.org

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

 

 

Saturday, August 20, 10:00-4:00

Sunday, August 21, 10:00-4:00

 

Dahlias are late summer bloomers known for their diverse forms and bright colors. Sponsored by the Badger State Dahlia Society. For more information call 608/577-1924.

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

 

 

Thursday, August 25, 6:30-8:30 p.m

Rotary Botanical Gardens, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI

 

If Hummingbirds are on your must-see, summer bucket list, this program is for you!

Larry and Emily Scheunemann, retired school teachers from Janesville, will be presenting on Thursday, August 25th from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.

 

The “All About Hummingbirds” program is a detailed, year in the life, of the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird.

 

Photos will be provided by Larry, who will tell the story of how hummingbirds behave, interact, and fulfill their needs in order to survive. These photographs also document the process of building a nest and raising two chicks.

 

Find out why hummingbirds are jewels of the bird world, as well as, necessary to many of our favorite plants.

 

A portion of the presentation will include a short stroll out to our “Hummingbird Haven” in the Nancy Yahr Memorial Children’s Garden.

 

Admission: $3 for RBG Friends members and $5 for the general public.  No registration required

 

Rotary Botanical Gardens

1455 Palmer Drive

Janesville, WI

 

 

Sunday, August 28, 1:30-3:30 p.m.

 

Learn about prairie grasses and flowers and their amazing adaptations for surviving hot summer days. Naturalist-led nature walk from 1:30 to 2:30, indoor activities from 2:30 to 3:30. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.

 

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

 

 

Tuesday, August 30, 6:30-8:30 p.m

Rotary Botanical Gardens, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI

 

Grasses offer color, form, texture and movement in our landscapes. There are many selections that will not only thrive in our gardens but will offer interest throughout the growing season and well in to the winter. Grasses and grass relatives will be discussed for all garden situations and their growing requirements will be addressed.

 

Admission: $3 for RBG Friends members and $5 for the general public.  No registration required

 

Seminar is conducted by Mark Dwyer, RBG Director of Horticulture

 

Rotary Botanical Gardens

1455 Palmer Drive

Janesville, WI

 

 

Sundays, June thru September, 1:30-3:00

 

Get an insider’s view of Olbrich’s outdoor gardens during a free guided garden stroll. All ages are welcome for this casual overview of the Gardens. Guided garden strolls will vary somewhat according to the season to reflect the garden areas that are at peak interest.

 

Strolls start and end in the lobby near the Garden entrance and are about 45 to 60 minutes in length. No registration is required; strolls are drop-in only. Strolls are held rain or shine and will be cancelled only in the event of dangerous lightning.

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

 

 

Saturdays, April 16 thru November 5, 6:00-2:00

On the Capitol Square

 

Wednesdays, April 22 thru November 4, 8:30-2:00

In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.

 

For details visit www.dcfm.org

 

 

Sundays, May 8 through October 23, 8:30-12:30

In the Northside TownCenter at the intersection of N. Sherman Ave. and Northport Dr. across from Warner Park.    

 

The Northside Farmers Market is a nonprofit community enterprise. It is one of the newest and fastest growing farmers’ markets in Dane County. In keeping with the innovative spirit of Madison’s Northside, we are surpassing what defines the traditional farmers’ market. Our fundamental principles include:

 

–Providing an abundant selection of high quality, locally grown foods. 

The market accepts Quest, WIC and Senior FMNP vouchers.

–Supporting our local agricultural entrepreneurs who are increasingly important today in ensuring that we have the best and safest food possible.

–Educating the community about traditional foods and the history of local agriculture in an attempt to preserve (and expand upon) our rich heritage.

–Promoting nutrition and the market by hosting dinners for neighborhood groups and seniors.  

 

Parking is always FREE!

 

 

 

 

AUGUST IN THE GARDEN—A checklist of things to do this month.

___Give the garden at least 1” of moisture per week.

___Mow as little as possible and with mower raised to at least 2”.

___Mulch beds to conserve moisture and keep down weeds.

___Deadheading spent blooms as needed.

___Collect seeds for next year’s garden.

___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.

___Take pictures of your garden for record keeping.

___Stake and support tall plants as needed.

___Divide daylilies as they finish blooming.

___Transplant and divide iris and peonies.

___Plant late crops of lettuce, spinach, radishes, etc.

___Order spring bulbs for fall planting: daffodils, tulips, hyacinth, etc.

___Plant fall blooming crocus bulbs.

___Fertilize potted plants at least every 2 weeks.  Follow directions.

___Stop fertilizing all trees and shrubs.

___Keep and eye on the weather.  Water as needed.

___Watch for pests and control as needed or desired.

___Shop for early mum selection and fall pansies.

___Begin checking out the garden centers for spring bulb selection.

___Stop watering held over amaryllis for 8 weeks for holiday blooms.

___Begin taking cuttings of geraniums, coleus and other plants to winter over.

___Visit Klein’s—Watch for end of season savings on perennials, shrubs and select annuals.

 

 

 

Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:

 

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887

Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447

Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com  or 800/514-4441

Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901

Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864

Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369

Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400

Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333

Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990

Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395

Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131

Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333

 

Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852

Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637

John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838

McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998

 

High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387

Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038

Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794

Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035

Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379

White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624

 

Note:  To receive every possible seed, plant or garden supply catalog imaginable, check out Cyndi’s Catalog of Garden Catalogs @ www.gardenlist.com.  Most catalogs are free and make for great winter reading! 

 

 

 

BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses.  Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail.  At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.

 

IN AUGUST:  

—The poinsettias continue grow and thrive in our back greenhouses.  They’re so big already, we’ve had to give them adequate spacing.

 

–The first of the mums, pansies and fall cole crops go out onto the sales floor.  

 

—Summer maintenance projects are under way.  This year’s plans include replacing old benches, replacing and repairing some roofs and some general touchups.

 

—We continue to space and pamper the fall mums that are now just beginning to bloom.

 

—We’re prepping our main showrooms for the semi-load of houseplants arriving from Florida about mid-month.  We time this shipment with the arrival of the college students.  Select from all shapes and sizes; from tropicals to succulents.  The showrooms become a veritable jungle.

 

—We begin ordering plants for the 2017 season.

 

 

 

 

Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page.  We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse.  And tell your friends.  It’s easy to do.  

 

Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com.  Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can.  The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.  

 

We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion.  Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

 

 

Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.

 

Join Klein’s on Twitter where we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.

 

We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above.  This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales.  Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases.  Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc. 

 

Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/recycling/plastic.cfm

 

 

There’s no easier way to give gorgeous blooming plants or fresh flower arrangements, month after month.  Each month a seasonal blooming plant or fresh arrangement will arrive on yours or a loved one’s doorstep.  You choose the start date and we’ll make your special delivery the very same day each month.    

 

For just $75, $150 or  $300, respectively, we’ll send 3 month’s, 6 month’s or a year’s worth of seasonal blooming plants–perhaps a bulb garden or azalea in the spring, one of our famous large geraniums or a tropical hibiscus in the summer, a chrysanthemum or Thanksgiving cactus in the fall or one of our homegrown poinsettias or cyclamen for the holidays and winter months.  Selection of the blooming plant will be based on availability.  

 

And for just $90, $175 or $350, respectively, receive one of Klein’s lovely fresh floral arrangements.  All arrangements will be seasonal and will contain only the freshest flowers.  All arrangements are Designer’s Choice, but are sure to satisfy the most discerning lover of fresh flowers.  

 

Prices include delivery within our delivery area.  Enclosure cards will accompany all gift deliveries if desired.  For delivery details visit the “Permanent Features” section of our newsletter below.  If your chosen delivery date happens to fall on a Sunday or holiday, we will deliver it on the next available delivery day.  All regular delivery conditions apply.

 

Join our Blooming Plant or Fresh Flower Club  by calling Klein’s at 608/244-5661 or  888/244-5661 or by stopping in.  We request that payment be made in full before the first delivery and prices do not include sales tax.

 

 

Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor.  We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.

Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills;  $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona.  An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items.  For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.  

 

A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.

We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods.  There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.

Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon.  Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.

There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.).  Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times.  Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate. 

 

Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.

We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m.  We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers. 

Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.

During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.

It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.

 

 

DEPARTMENT HEADS:  Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.

Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661

 

Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg  jamie@kleinsfloral.com

Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com

Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com

Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein  sue@kleinsfloral.com

 

 

University of Wisconsin Extension

1 Fen Oak Ct. #138

Madison, WI 53718

 

Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic

Dept. of Plant Pathology

1630 Linden Dr. 

Madison, WI 53706

 

Insect Diagnostic Lab

240 Russell Labs

1630 Linden Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

 

U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab

8452 Mineral Point Rd.

Verona, WI 53593

 

American Horticultural Society

 

Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)

 

Invasive Species

 

Community Groundworks 

3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4

Madison, WI 53704

 

Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)

 

Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program

Department of Horticulture

1575 Linden Drive

University of Wisconsin – Madison

Madison, WI 53706

 

The Wisconsin Gardener

 

Allen Centennial Gardens

620 Babcock Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

 

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave.

Madison, WI 53704

 

Rotary Gardens 

1455 Palmer Dr.

Janesville, WI 53545

 

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

 

University of Wisconsin-West Madison

Agricultural Research Center

8502 Mineral Point Rd.

Verona, WI 53593

 

 

Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it.  The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.

•Bird of paradise

•Bull nettle

•Castor bean

•Chinaberry tree

•Crocus

•Daffodil

•Deadly nightshade

•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)

•Foxglove

•Glory lily

•Hemlock

•Holly berry

•Indian tobacco

•Iris

•Jimsonweed

•Lantana

•Larkspur

•Lily of the valley

•Marijuana

•Mescal bean

•Mexicantes

•Mistletoe

•Morning glory

•Mountain laurel

•Night-blooming jasmine

•Nutmeg

•Oleander

•Philodendron

•Poison ivy

•Poison sumac

•Pokeweed

•Poppy

•Potato

•Privet

•Rhododendron

•Rhubarb

•Water hemlock

•Wisteria

 

Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction.  Source:  The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/

•Aconite

•Apple

•Arrowgrasses

•Autumn Crocus

•Azaleas

•Baneberry

•Bird-of-Paradise

•Black locust

•Bloodroot

•Box

•Buckeye

•Buttercup

•Caladium

•Carolina jessamine

•Castor bean

•Chinaberry tree

•Chockcherries

•Christmas berry

•Christmas Rose

•Common privet

•Corn cockle

•Cowbane

•Cow cockle

•Cowsliprb

•Daffodil

•Daphne

•Day lily

•Delphinium (Larkspur)

•Dumbcane

•Dutchman’s breeches

•Easter lily

•Elderberry

•Elephant’s ear

•English Ivy

•European Bittersweet

•Field peppergrass

•Foxglove

•Holly

•Horsechestnut

•Horse nettle

•Hyacinth

•Iris

•Jack-in-the-pulpit

•Jerusalem Cherry

•Jimsonweed

•Lantana

•Larkspur

•Laurels

•Lily of the valley

•Lupines

•Mayapple

•Milk vetch

•Mistletoe

•Monkshood

•Morning glory

•Mustards

•Narcissus

•Nicotiana

•Nightshade

•Oaks

•Oleander

•Philodendrons

•Pokeweed

•Poinsettia

•Poison hemlock

•Potato

•Rhododendron

•Rhubarb

•Rosary pea

•Sago palm

•Skunk cabbage

•Smartweeds

•Snow-on-the-mountain

•Sorghum

•Star of Bethlehem

•Wild black cherry

•Wild radish

•Wisteria

•Yellow jessamine

•Yew