‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—NOVEMBER 2019
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
608/244-5661 or info@kleinsfloral.com



Klein’s Holiday Open House Weekend is November 22-24
Plant Your Spring Bulbs Into Early December
Holiday Decorating With Fresh Greenery
Our ‘Mad Gardener’ Is Ready for Your Questions
Protect Your Plants Now from Winter Burn
Winter Burn and Anti-transpirants
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
You Asked the Mad Gardener About Rose Protection
Plant of the Month: Bromeliads from Bullis Bromeliads
Klein’s Favorite Homemade Applesauce Recipes
Product Spotlight: Terra Cotta Pottery from Ceramo™
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—From October 2019
—November’s Beaver Moon
—Cyanocitta cristata: “crested blue chattering bird”
—Winter Mulching Basics
November in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Review Klein’s @: Yelp, Google Reviews or Facebook Reviews
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook


KLEIN’S 2019 OPEN HOUSE WEEKEND is November 22 thru November 24. Enter a winter wonderland filled with our homegrown poinsettias, holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs.


Receive Double Rewards Points on All Applicable Purchases on Saturday and Sunday (Nov. 23-24)! (Visit kleinsfloral.com/loyalty-program/ to sign up if you are not currently a member of our Rewards Program)


On Friday, November 22 from 5:00-8:00 join us for our HOLIDAY SNEAK PEEK SALE when everything in the store will be 20% OFF the the current price (including clearance priced merchandise)!


Enlighten your senses as you step into our warm and cozy greenhouses. The serene beauty of being in the greenhouses after dark is a truly unique experience. Surround yourself with the sights, sounds and smells of the holidays!



On Saturday, November 23 and on Sunday, November 24 join us for the following workshop:


From 10:00-12:00 & from 1:00-3:00—Design & Create Outdoor Holiday Containers with fresh pine greens, branches, berries and all the traditional (and not-so-traditional) holiday baubles, bangles and beads. Oodles of pre-made containers will be available or make your own on site. Bring your own empty container(s) or purchase one of ours and we’ll get you started. A 12″ container will be provided ($5 discount if you provide your own). Cost is $40 and can go up depending on additional greens and accessories. There will be additional cost for containers larger than 12″. Advance sign up is required. Please sign up on Facebook or contact Sue at sue@kleinsfloral.com if interested in taking part (608/244-5661).


Saturday, November 23:
From 10:00 12:00—By popular request, come and join Darcy as she teaches a step-by-step bow making class in which participants will be able to create their own beautiful bows. There is no fee associated with this class and please invite your friends and family to join us. If you are interested in participating in the bow making class, please either bring at least five yards of wired ribbon or purchase some from our selection on the day.


From 1:00 3:00—Enjoy holiday music by guitarist Steven Meyer


AND on Sunday, November 24:
From 1:30-4:30Photos With Santa. Kids of all ages and pets are welcome too! Bring your camera or phone with camera or we can send a digital image to you as well.


From 1:00 3:00—Enjoy holiday music by guitarist Steven Meyer


We have all of your favorites–tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums–and a few not-so-well known treasures for your garden. November is a perfect time to plant your spring bulbs (planting too can early promote premature leaf growth) and nothing could be more uplifting after a long winter than crocus, snowdrops and winter aconite blossoms peeking through the snow come spring. Allow the Klein’s staff to share planting tips and ideas to keep those pesky squirrels from digging up those newly planted bulbs. And for indoor blooms, don’t forget a few hyacinths, paperwhites and amaryllis for indoor forcing. We carry a lovely assortment of forcing glasses, vases and decorative pottery. Forced bulbs make for an inexpensive and treasured holiday gift. Any bulb questions? Don’t forget our Mad Gardener @ madgardener@kleinsfloral.com!


A Reminder: Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes . . . usually into early December. Watch for increased season-end savings on bulbs for the garden during the month of November and as the weather cools. Note that any discounts will not include holiday amaryllis, paperwhites, forcing hyacinths or gift boxes.


“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”


Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link to this e-mail address on our home page for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s. The Mad Gardener hopes to hear from you soon!


Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.


Please note that our Mad Gardener is not only an expert gardener, but can answer all of your indoor plant questions as well.


Monday thru Friday : 8:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00


Holiday Sneak Peek Sale, Friday, Nov. 22, 5:00-8:00


Holiday Hours Begin Monday, December 2
Monday thru Friday 8:00-6:00
Saturday: 8:00-6:00
Sunday: 9:00-5:00


Holiday hours run through Monday, December 23.


The new 2020 FTD Calendar is available at our checkout. These beautiful, flower-filled calendars are free. No purchase necessary.


Watch for great specials on all remaining spring bulbs while supplies last. November is the perfect month for planting next spring’s bloomers. Selection becomes limited and includes daffodils, tulips, crocus and more. Sale does not include paperwhites, amaryllis, forcing hyacinths and gift boxes.


November 2—Día de los Muertos


November 2 and November 3Art Works Art Show @ Klein’s. Find unique one-of-a-kind items for gifts or for yourself. Ceramics, Paintings, Fiber, Jewelry, Mixed Media, Photography, Sculpture, Wood and more! For more information go to www.artworksmadison.com.


November 3–Daylight Savings Time ends


November 5–Election Day


November 11–Veterans’ Day


November 12–Full Moon


November 16—Gentle Morning Yoga Class (8:00-9:00) @ Klein’s. Start your morning off in the most peaceful way… Surrounded by warm, oxygen rich air, and beautiful greenery all around. Breathe deeply, and stretch your body to awaken to a beautiful day. The pace of the class will be steady to slow with intention to make a connection to the Earth, to find our roots, and to ground-down for the Fall Season. This class is open to everyone, even if you’re brand new to yoga! With attendance you will receive a FREE GIFT: an adorable Mini Succulent to take home with you, along with a 10% Off Coupon to use day of event. We sure hope you’ll join us for a lovely morning of Yoga surrounded by Nature’s Goodness.


Megan Reed, a 200-RYT, Reiki Practitioner, & seasonal employee of Klein’s (lover of plant babies) will be guiding us through this 60 minute Yoga class.


$20 per person. Please RSVP as space is limited.


Please arrive at least 10 minutes early to find your spot and settle into the space. Dress in layers as the greenhouse fluctuates in temperature depending on the weather. Bring your own mat, water bottle, props if you’d like them.


**If you purchase a houseplant & pot, there is FREE potting at Klein’s.


November 22 thru November 24–KLEIN’S OPEN HOUSE WEEKEND. Enter a winter wonderland filled with holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs. Free refreshments on hand and receive Double Rewards Points on all applicable purchases on Saturday and Sunday (Nov. 23 & 24)!


November 24Photos With Santa (1:30-4:30). Kids of all ages and pets are welcome too! Bring your camera or phone with camera or we can send a digital image to you as well.


November 25—Thanksgiving Wine & Design. Join us at 6:30 to design your own centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table at Klein’s. Enjoy a glass of wine and appetizers from 6:30-6:45. Designing begins at 6:45. Cost is $35. Advance registration is required@ sue@kleinsfloral.com or at 608/244-5661.


November 28–Thanksgiving Day (Store Closed)


November 29—Black Friday. Escape to Klein’s from the hustle and bustle of the malls and big box chain stores for a more relaxing and intimate holiday gift shopping experience. We not only carry merchandise for the gardener in your life, but many fun, interesting and unique gift ideas.


November 30—Small Business Saturday. In our appreciation for supporting our small and local business, Klein’s will give you a $20 gift card on future purchases (January 1-March 31) for all purchases of $100 or more.




For sheer selection of holiday greens for your decorating needs (and arriving mid-month), Klein’s should be your one and only choice. Klein’s will be offering greenery from no less than a half dozen different suppliers from throughout Wisconsin and covering all types of greenery, quality and price ranges. We have it all; pine boughs, spruce tips, kissing balls, door swags, wreaths, roping and decorative branches (dogwood, willow, winterberry etc.). Our wreath choices range from the simple to the elegant and sophisticated with everything in between. Choose from dozens of outdoor holiday ribbon–cut to measure–for creating the perfect bow to suit any decor.


Holiday Decorating With Fresh Greenery
By Karen Russ, HGIC Horticulture Specialist; George D. Kessler, Extension Forester; and Bob Polomski Extension Consumer Horticulturist, Clemson University.


Decorating the house with fresh greenery is one of the oldest winter holiday traditions. Evergreens have been a part of winter festivals since ancient times. Evergreens are used to represent everlasting life and hope for the return of spring.


Southerners have been decorating with greenery since colonial days, although the custom was not common in the Northern United States until the 1800s. Churches were decorated elaborately with garlands of holly, ivy, mountain laurel and mistletoe hung from the roof, the walls, the pews, pulpit and sometimes the altar. Lavender, rose petals and herbs such as rosemary and bay were scattered for scent. Homes were decorated in a simpler fashion with greenery and boughs in the window frames and holly sprigs stuck to the glass with wax.


Today, decorating for the holidays with fresh greenery is more prevalent than ever. Greenery such as cedar, ivy, pine and holly add a fresh look and natural scent to our homes.


Gathering Greenery
The first and often the best place to look for holiday greenery may be in your own landscape. Greenery gathered from your own garden will be fresher than any that you can buy. You may also have a variety of unusual greenery that would be difficult to find for purchase.


When gathering live greenery from your shrubs and trees, remember that you are actually pruning the plants. Consider carefully which branches to cut and which ones to leave. Distribute the cuts evenly around the plant in order to preserve its natural form.


Many different kinds of greenery can be used for holiday decorations. Pines, firs and cedars are good to use for indoor decoration since they dry out slowly and hold their needles best at warm interior temperatures. They may last for several weeks if properly treated and cared for. Hemlock, spruces and most broadleaf evergreens will last longer if used outdoors.


Decorating Safely
Dried evergreens can become flammable when in contact with a heat source such as a candle flame. Make sure that any wreaths, roping and garlands that you bring indoors are as fresh as possible. Check needles by bending them. They should be flexible and not break. Avoid greenery that are shedding or that have brown, dry tips.


Before bringing the greenery inside, soak them in water overnight to rehydrate them.
Never place fresh greenery near heat sources, such as space heaters, heater vents or sunny windows. Be careful of wreaths used on the front door, if there is a glass outer door that receives direct sunlight. Keep greenery away from candles and fireplaces. If you use lights near your green arrangements, make sure that they stay cool, and if outside, that they are rated for exterior use.


Check your decorations every couple of days for freshness. If greenery are becoming dry, either replace or remove the dry portions. Make sure to discard dry greenery away from the house or garage to prevent a further fire hazard.


Safety for Children & Pets
Some popular plants used in holiday decorating can present poisoning hazards for small children or pets. Poisonous berries are found on holly plants, yews, mistletoe, ivy plants, Jerusalem cherry, bittersweet and crown of thorns. The pearly white berries of mistletoe are particularly toxic. Keep all these plants out of the reach of children and curious pets.


Keeping Greenery Fresh
–Use clean, sharp cutters to cut branches and immediately put cut ends into water until ready to use.
–Crush the ends of woody stems to allow the cutting to take in more water.
–Keep greenery out of sunlight.
–Immerse greenery in water overnight before arranging. This allows the cuttings to absorb the maximum amount of moisture.
–Allow the foliage to dry and then spray it with an anti-transpirant, such as Wilt-pruf, to help seal in moisture. Note: Do not use anti-transpirants on juniper berries, cedar or blue spruce. The product can damage the wax coating that gives these plants their distinctive color.
–Keep completed wreaths, garlands and arrangements in a cool location until use.
–Display fresh greenery and fruits out of the sun and away from heat.
–Plan to replace greenery and fruits throughout the holiday season if they become less than fresh.


Decorating With Greens
Many different types of decorations can be made with fresh greenery. Some traditional types are garlands, swags and wreaths. A number of different types of forms can be stuffed with sprigs or branches to create topiaries. Kissing balls are an unusual alternative to the usual mistletoe sprig.


A variety of wreaths and garlands are readily available commercially. Undecorated ones can be dressed up with contrasting live greenery from the yard for a personal look.


In addition to the more commonly used evergreens, consider using other plant parts such as berries, dried flowers, cones and seed pods to give color and texture interest. Some possibilities include:
–Holly berries
–Hydrangea blossoms
–Lotus seed pods
–Magnolia pods
–Nandina berries
–Pine cones
–Reindeer moss
–Rose hips
–Sweet gum balls
–Wax myrtle berries
–Fruits such as lemons, limes, lady apples, seckel pears, kumquats and pineapple.


Preserved leaves such as ivies, mahonia, eucalyptus, boxwood, beech, camellia, oak and rhododendron are useful and long-lasting as holiday decorations.


Source material from: www.clemson.edu/extension/


I have 6 hybrid tea rose bushes, planted this past spring. I would like to know the best method of protecting them over the winter. I am wondering if those styrofoam rose cones would work, or if a combination of the cone and a “fence” of burlap might work. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please include recommendations on how much I should cut them back. Thanks! Donna


Hi Donna,
Hybrid teas are a tough choice this far north. In fact, many local garden centers (including Klein’s) have pretty much stopped selling them due to their temperamental nature. The last three winters have been disastrous on roses in the Madison area, not just due to the ‘polar vortex’, but the fact we’ve had very warm Decembers, then A LOT of rain and then extreme cold spells after the rains. The combination of the rain and then the cold has been the killer. Even super-hardy roses for our area oftentimes fared badly with extreme die-back. Boxwoods, Japanese maples, burning bushes and many conifers have been equally hard hit.


As a rule, we do not recommend pruning roses at all in the fall (unless to clean up dead wood). It’s recommended to prune out any dead or injured wood in the spring. Afterwards, subsequent pruning is best done after their first full flush of bloom (usually around July 1) when they have the rest of the summer to bounce back, shaping them then as necessary.


Our recommended rose protection is burlap, leaves (marsh hay) and twine (or something similar).


Rose cones are not a good choice as they harbor disease, rodents, fungal issues and then “cook” the roses if taken off even a little too late in the spring (but not too early of course). Voles in particular relish the snug environment for winter protection, girdling the stems for food. Fungal problems can explode in that protected environment.


In my own garden, I also have 6 rather old and healthy rose buses. Once the ground has frozen (so around Dec 1), I mound about 6-8″ of soil over the base of the rose as to protect the graft. The graft is the most important part to protect in that even if the top were to die back, the graft remains protected and the rose comes back true-to-form from shoots above the graft. Any sprouts below the graft are usually those of a hardier shrub rose and not a tea rose.


Next I individually wrap each rose bush in burlap, going around 2-3 times, somewhat pulling the branches upward and together. I then secure the burlap by wrapping the buses with twine, stuffing the ‘package’ with leaves (I use maple) as I go for improved protection and airflow. I then secure the twine and burlap into the ground with a few bamboo stakes. Without the staking, strong winter winds could tear the covering away.


Come spring, and usually about April 1, depending on the weather, I remove the burlap and then the mounded soil once thawed. As for pruning, I wait and watch to see what leafs out, removing any dead branches. When pruning blackened tips, it’s important to stay in to blackened part a bit and not cut into the green to avoid fungal problems fro spreading.


I hope this was of some help and with some luck, maybe we’ll have a milder winter than the last three to get your roses better established for seasons ahead.


Thanks for your question,
Klein’s Mad Gardener


. . . that now is the perfect time to help prevent winter burn from occurring to your conifers and shrubs during the cold months ahead?


The past three winters have been particularly hard on Madison area conifers, shrubs and ornamental trees. The following article discussing winter burn is by Laura Jull, UW-Madison Horticulture @ hort.extension.wisc.edu


What is winter burn? Winter burn is a common problem of evergreens including those with broad leaves (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron), needles (e.g., fir, hemlock, pine, spruce, yew) and scale-like leaves (e.g., arborvitae, false cypress, juniper) grown in open, unprotected locations and exposed to severe winter conditions. Evergreen plants that are marginally hardy in a location (i.e., not well-adapted to local winter conditions) are at increased risk for winter burn. Winter burn can be so severe that affected plants may die and/or require replacement.


What does winter burn look like? Winter burn symptoms often become apparent as the snow melts and spring temperatures rise. Foliage starts to brown at the tips of branches with browning progressing inward toward the center of the plant. On broad-leaved evergreens, leaf edges typically brown first, followed by browning of entire leaves. Foliage facing south, southwest or west is most often affected. Symptomatic foliage often begins to drop off starting in spring and continuing through mid-summer as new foliage is produced. In extreme cases, entire plants can brown and die.


What causes winter burn? There are many factors that can contribute to winter burn. In general, plants with shallow or poorly-developed root systems that do not efficiently take up water (e.g., recent transplants) are more prone to winter burn. Warm fall temperatures that delay the onset of plant dormancy can also contribute to winter burn. Under such conditions, plants are not prepared for the subsequent rapid onset of freezing winter temperatures, and as a result damage to foliage occurs. Similar cold injury can occur mid-winter when temperatures drop sharply at sunset causing foliage that has warmed during the day to rapidly cool and freeze. In addition, on sunny winter days, foliage (particularly foliage facing the sun) can begin to transpire (i.e., naturally lose water through the foliage). Because the ground is frozen, plant roots cannot take up water and replace the water that has been lost from the foliage. As a result, foliage dries and browns. Foliage under snow or facing away from the sun and direct winds is usually not damaged. Strong winter winds can lead to additional water loss making winter burn more severe. Colder than normal winter temperatures and longer than normal winters can also be factors in the development of winter burn, especially if below normal temperatures occur into April (the time of year when plants normally come out of dormancy and are most susceptible to winter injury). Finally, exposure of plants to salt used to deice roads, driveways and sideways during the winter can make plants more prone to winter burn injury.


How do I save a plant with winter burn? For evergreens such as arborvitaes, boxwoods, junipers and yews, prune out dead, brown, damaged or dying tissue in mid-spring after new foliage is produced. If new foliage has not yet emerged by spring, scratch the bark on affected branches and look for green tissue underneath. Also gently peel back the bud scales to look for inner green bud tissue. If the stem or bud tissue is green, buds on the branch may still break to form new foliage. If the tissue is brown, the branch is most likely dead and you should prune the branch back to a live, lateral bud or branch. Such buds and branches may be far back inside the canopy and pruning may remove a substantial amount of the plant. Pines, spruces and firs typically produce new growth at branch tips in spring that will replace winter burn-damaged needles, and thus pruning may not be required on these evergreens. After a couple of growing seasons, new foliage will fill in the areas that were damaged. If an entire evergreen is brown, recovery is unlikely and the plant should be replaced with something (e.g., a deciduous shrub or tree) that is better-suited to the site.


How do I avoid problems with winter burn in the future? Use a variety of strategies to prevent winter burn before winter arrives. Plant the right plant in the right place. Buy plants that are rated as cold hardy for your location and are well-adapted to local growing and soil conditions. Plants exposed to drying winter sun and winds are more likely to be injured. Therefore, avoid planting winter injury sensitive evergreens, particularly those that require shade or that are marginally cold-hardy, in exposed, sunny, windy areas. Plant them on the northeast or east side of a building or in a protected courtyard. Plant boxwoods, hemlocks, rhododendrons, and yews in partial shade to provide them added protection from winter sun and wind.


—Plant evergreens at the right time of year. Optimally plant evergreens either in early spring (before buds break) or in late summer (i.e., August through September). Evergreens can be planted in the summer if you provide supplemental water. Avoid planting after early October in northern Wisconsin and after mid-October in southern Wisconsin as this will not allow sufficient time for roots to grow adequately before the ground freezes.


—DO NOT prune evergreens in late summer or early fall. Late season pruning of some non-native evergreens may encourage a flush of new growth that will not harden off properly before winter.


—Mulch evergreens properly. Apply two inches (on clay soils) to four inches (on sandy soils) of loose mulch (e.g., shredded hardwood, pine, or cedar bark; leaf compost; or wood chips) around the base of evergreens out to at least the drip line (e.g., the edge of where the branches extend). Keep mulch at least three inches away from the trunks of trees and the bases of shrubs. Proper mulch insulates roots from severe fluctuations of soil temperatures and reduces water loss. It also helps protect roots from injury due to heaving that occurs when soils go through cycles of freezing and thawing during the winter. Heaving can especially be a problem for shallow-rooted and newly planted evergreens. DO NOT mulch excessively or too close to plants as this can lead to damage by providing shelter for mice and voles (which can girdle trunks and branches) and by providing a favorable environment for disease development as well as insect activity and feeding.


—Water plants properly. Plants that are well-hydrated are less prone to winter burn. In particular, newly planted or young evergreens, especially those planted in open, exposed sites, those planted under eaves, or those planted in dry falls may suffer severe moisture loss during the winter and consequently severe winter burn. ***Established evergreens should receive approximately one inch of water per week and newly transplanted evergreens up to two inches of water per week during the growing season up until the soil freezes in the autumn or there is a significant snowfall.*** If supplemental watering is needed, use a soaker or drip hose to apply water near the drip lines of plants rather than using a sprinkler.


—Avoid late summer or fall fertilization. Applying quick-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers in late summer or fall could potentially stimulate growth of new foliage (particularly on some non-native evergreens) as well as inhibit proper onset of dormancy which can lead to damage over the winter. If you are concerned that your evergreens may need to be fertilized, submit a soil sample from around your plants to a professional soil testing lab that can provide specific information on what fertilizer to use and when to fertilize,
Protect plants during the winter. Use burlap, canvas, snow fencing or other protective materials to create barriers that will protect plants from winter winds and sun. Install four to five foot tall stakes approximately two feet from the drip lines of plants especially on the south and west sides (or any side exposed to wind) and wrap protective materials around the stakes to create “fenced” barriers. Leave the top open. These barriers will deflect the wind and protect plants from direct exposure to the sun. Remove the barrier material promptly in spring. DO NOT tightly wrap individual plants with burlap as this can collect ice, trap moisture and make plants more susceptible to infection by disease-causing organisms. Use of anti-transpirant products (see our Natural News feature later in this newsletter) to prevent water loss from foliage over the winter has been shown to have limited benefit. These materials degrade rapidly, require reapplication after each significant rain or snow event, and may not be effective in preventing water loss that can lead to winter burn.


PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTEach month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.


Clay Pots from Ceramo™
For generations, plain clay pots have been have been the go-to pot type for gardeners. Both practical and inexpensive, terra cotta pottery will survive for years if properly cared for. The porous clay makes it far easier to avoid overwatering than when using plastic, resin or ceramic containers. And though heavy, their added weight prevents plants from tipping or blowing over. At Klein’s, plain clay pottery from Ceramo™ has long been the backbone of our extensive pottery selection. In addition, terra cotta pots are far and away your best choice when planting cacti or succulent gardens. Most popular are our ‘crayon’ pots with matching saucers in dozens of colors and sizes and our new granite swirled line of terra cotta to complement our longtime favorite gray swirled selection.


About Ceramo™ Clay Pots
We’ve been in the flower pot business for a long time, producing and distributing our first planter from raw Missouri clay shortly after the end of World War II.


The red clay Standard Flower Pot is one of the most iconic consumer products in the world – everyone can immediately identify its timeless design. This means that no garden center is complete without these classic planters on their shelves.


We have a deep partnership with Spang, the German manufacturer of amazing clay planters. Our larger German terra cotta flower pots (6” diameter and larger) feature a reinforced rim unlike anything else found in the market. These rims are specifically engineered to enhance both the quality and the durability of these incredible pots. The banded portion of the rim helps to keep these clay pots perfectly round during the production and firing processes – this structural integrity allows the flower pots to stack correctly, keeping them from scraping and scratching each other during transit.


Winter Tips For Ceramic Flower Pots
Not all flower pots are suitable for year-round outdoor use – generally, only “high-fired” pots are able to survive the temperature changes and the freeze/thaw cycle. Examples of pots that don’t make this cut are most Mexican terra cotta planters, and most Italian red clay pottery. Also, any pots or vases that do not have drainage holes should be brought inside.


Once you’ve determined that you have a flower pot that will most likely survive the worst that winter has to offer, it’s important to note that it’s generally not OK to just leave the pots in the same condition that they were in during the growing season.


Obviously, the best option is to bring your ceramic flower pots inside, or to at least cover them with a tarp. If those aren’t options for your containers, or if you really like the way the pots look, and you want to keep looking at them all winter, there are lots of things you can do to ensure that your beautiful pots continue to look great and last through the winter:


Keep the Drainage Holes Open – Hands down, this is the single most important factor in determining if your planters are going to make it through the winter. Do NOT plug up the drainage holes in any way on pots that you intend to leave outside through the winter. Please note that this does NOT mean that the pots need to be totally empty, but if you pour water into the pot, it should start dripping through the drainage holes within minutes. This is best accomplished by placing a layer of small rocks, broken pots, Styrofoam peanuts, or similarly-sized materials on the bottom of the pot, which will prevent the drain from getting blocked with soil clots. Ideally, this layer will be about 10-15% of the interior height of the pot.


Use A Potting Soil Blend that Allows for Drainage – You should be doing this anyway, but if you aren’t, Fall is a great time to change out your potting soil. Again, the goal here is to make sure that water can drain fully to the bottom of the flower pot.


No Saucers – Seriously. Saucers do a lot of great things – they help to keep your plants hydrated through the hot seasons, they protect your decks and floors, and they look great with many flower pots. They are also your flower pots’ worst enemy during a deep freeze. Any residual water left in a saucer when the cold hits will freeze. This will not only cause the saucer to become stuck to the planter, but it can also pressure the foot of the pot, causing breakage or crumbling. The ice-filled saucer will also plug the drainage holes on the bottom of your pot, allowing the pot to retain water, and in turn presenting the opportunity for ice to expand and break the pot from the inside out.


Use Pot Feet – Again, there are a lot of reasons for doing this. First, using pot feet keeps the bottom of the pot elevated, which enhances drainage. This elevation also keeps water from pooling below the pot, eliminating the risk of the pot freezing to the ground.



NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach


ENTRY: OCTOBER 12, 2019 (November’s Beaver Moon)
Not in context, an article I read this morning discussing fall garden prep and projects referred to next month’s full moon as the Beaver Moon. I had never heard that term before and it made me curious about each month’s full moon name and its history.


Full Moon Names and Meanings
Many human cultures have given names to the full moon throughout the year. Different full moon names can be found among the Chinese, Celtic, Old English, and New Guinea cultures, to name a few. In addition, Native American tribes often used moon phases and cycles to keep track of the seasons and gave a unique name to each recurring full moon. The full moon names were used to identify the entire month during which each occurred.


Although many Native American Tribes gave distinct names to the full moon, the most well known names of the full moon come from the Algonquin tribes who lived in the area of New England and westward to Lake Superior. The Algonquin tribes had perhaps the greatest effect on the early European settlers in America, and the settlers adopted the Native American habit of naming the moons. They even invented some of their own names that have been passed down through time.


The names given below aren’t the only ones that have been used. Every full moon, with one exception, had variations on its name among various Algonquin tribes, not to mention other tribes throughout North America. But the names below are the most common. Some of the variations are also mentioned.


January: The Wolf Moon
In January snow gathers deep in the woods and the howling of wolves can be heard echoing in the cold still air. Some tribes called this moon the Snow Moon, but most often it was used for the next month.


February: The Snow Moon
Snow piles even higher in February, giving this moon its most common name. Among tribes that used this name for the January moon, the February moon was called the Hunger Moon due to the challenging hunting conditions.


March: The Worm Moon
Snow slowly begins to melt, the ground softens, and earthworms show their heads again and their castings or fecal matter can be found. Other signs of spring gave rise to other variations: the cawing of crows (the Crow Moon); the formation of crusts on the snow from repeated thawing and freezing (the Crust Moon); and the time for tapping maple trees (the Sap Moon). Christian settlers also called this the Lenten Moon and considered it the last moon of winter.


April: The Pink Moon
Flowers begin to appear, including the widespread grass pink or wild ground phlox. Other variations indicate more signs of full spring, such as Sprouting Grass Moon, Egg Moon, and Fish Moon (common among coastal tribes).


May: The Flower Moon
Flowers come into full bloom and corn is ready to plant. Also called the Corn Planting Moon and the Milk Moon.


June: The Strawberry Moon
Strawberry-picking season reaches its peak during this time. This is one of the few names that was universal to all Algonquin tribes.


July: The Buck Moon
Buck deer start growing velvety hair-covered antlers in July. Frequent thunderstorms in the New England area also resulted in the name Thunder Moon. Some tribes also used Hay Moon.


August: The Sturgeon Moon
The sturgeon, a large fish common to the Great Lakes and other nearby bodies of water, is most easily caught during this month. The reddish appearance of the moon through the frequent sultry hazes of August also prompted a few tribes to dub it the Red Moon. Other names included the Green Corn Moon and the Grain Moon.


September: The Harvest Moon
Many of the Native American tribes’ staple foods, such as corn, pumpkins, squash, beans, and rice, are ready for gathering at this time. The strong light of the Harvest Moon allowed European farmers to work late into the night to harvest their crops. The Harvest Moon does not always occur in September. Traditionally, the name goes to the full moon closest to the autumn equinox, which falls during October once or twice a decade. Sometimes the September full moon was called the Corn Moon.


October: The Hunter’s Moon
After the fields have been reaped, the leaves begin to fall and the deer are fat and ready for eating. Hunters can ride easily over the fields’ stubble, and the fox and other animals are more easily spotted. Some years the Harvest Moon falls in October instead of September.


November: The Beaver Moon
At this time of year the beavers are busy preparing for winter, and it’s time to set beaver traps and secure a store of warm fur before the swamps freeze over. Some tribes called this the Frosty Moon.


December: The Cold Moon
Winter takes a firm hold and temperatures plummet at this time. Sometimes this moon is also called the Long Night Moon as the winter nights lengthen and the moon spends more time above the horizon opposite a low sun. The full moon name often used by Christian settlers is the “Moon before Yule”.


Other Full Moon Names:
Blue Moon-Occasionally, two full Moons occur within the same calendar month. The first full Moon goes by the name normally assigned to that month’s full Moon, but the second full Moon is commonly called a Blue Moon. Blue Moons occur about every 2½ years.
Black Moon-In contrast to the Blue Moon, Black Moon has been used to refer to a month in which there is no full Moon; this can only occur in February, because the calendar month has fewer days (28 or 29 days) than the lunar month (about 29.5 days). The term may also refer to a second new Moon occurring within a calendar month; by this definition, a Black Moon can never occur in February.
Supermoon-A full Moon is said to be a “Supermoon” when it is at the point in its orbit closest to the Earth. In astronomy, the terms “perigee syzygy” or “perigee full Moon” are typically used instead of “Supermoon.”



* * * * *


ENTRY: OCTOBER 17, 2019 (Cyanocitta cristata: “crested blue chattering bird”)
Earlier today I finished setting up my winter birdfeeding station just outside my TV room window for easy viewing. The station is set in a grove of white pines, arborvitae, dogwood and other assorted shrubs in order to give the birds security and a quick escape from predators. In my dozen or so assorted feeder types I serve up a smorgasbord of offerings including safflower seed, sunflower seed, niger seed, millet, corn, suet and raw peanuts; both shelled and unshelled. Within minutes of putting up my two peanut feeders they were visited by chickadees, nuthatches, cardinals and, of course, blue jays. The blue jays seem to prefer the whole, unshelled peanuts. After the screams announcing their arrival at the feeders, they swoop in, grab a single peanut and whisk it away to a nearby branch where they crack it open with their bill, sledgehammer-style to enjoy the treats inside. Just feet away is a feeder filled with shelled peanuts, yet they seem to prefer the added step of shelling their own.


About Blue Jays
Blue jays are a year round local resident. One of the loudest and most colorful birds of eastern back yards and woodlots, the blue jay is unmistakable. Intelligent and adaptable, it may feed on almost anything, and it is quick to take advantage of bird feeders. Besides their raucous jay! jay! calls, blue jays make a variety of musical sounds, and they can do a remarkable imitation of the scream of a Red-shouldered Hawk. Captive blue jays sometimes learn to imitate human speech and meowing cats. Not always conspicuous, they slip furtively through the trees when tending their own nest or going to rob the nest of another bird.


Blue jays are sometimes known to eat eggs or nestlings, and it is this practice that has tarnished their reputation. In fact, they are largely vegetarian birds. Most of their diet is composed of acorns, nuts, and seeds—though they also eat small creatures such as caterpillars, grasshoppers, and beetles. Blue jays sometimes store acorns in the ground and may fail to retrieve them, thus aiding the spread of forests.


Common in much of eastern and central North America, blue jays are gradually extending their range to the Northwest. They are fairly social and are typically found in pairs or in family groups or small flocks. Most northern birds head south for the winter and join in large flocks of up to 250 birds to make the long journey. However, this migration is a bit of a mystery to scientists. Some birds winter in all parts of the blue jay’s range, and some individual birds may migrate one year and not the next. It is unclear what factors determine whether each blue jay or family decides to migrate.


Blue jays are found in all kinds of forests but especially near oak trees; they’re more abundant near forest edges than in deep forest. They’re common in urban and suburban areas, especially where oaks or bird feeders are found.


Blue jays build their nests in the crotch or thick outer branches of a deciduous or coniferous tree, usually 10-25 feet above the ground. Male and female both gather materials and build the nest, but on average male does more gathering and female more building. Twigs used in outer part of nest are usually taken from live trees, and birds often struggle to break them off. Birds may fly great distances to obtain rootlets from recently dug ditches, fresh graves in cemeteries, and newly fallen trees. Jays may abandon their nest after detecting a nearby predator.


Blue jays are known for their intelligence and complex social systems, and have tight family bonds. They often mate for life, remaining with their social mate throughout the year.


Only the female incubates; her mate provides all her food during incubation. For the first 8–12 days after the nestlings hatch, the female broods them and the male provides food for his mate and the nestlings. Female shares food gathering after this time, but male continues to provide more food than female.


Blue jays can live up to 12-15 years; very long-lived among songbirds.


* * * * *


ENTRY: OCTOBER 31, 2019 (Winter Mulching Basics)
Looking ahead to my November projects, it’s time to think about preparing my beds for the cold months ahead. A little prep now avoids heartache later!


Winter Mulching in Cold Climate Gardens
By Marie Iannotti
In areas that experience freezing temperatures, winter mulching differs from mulching during the growing season. We mulch our gardens in the spring to suppress weeds, retain moisture and feed and warm the soil. While we may spread a layer of soil conditioning compost or manure in the fall, the primary reason for winter mulching is to protect our plants from the harsh conditions of winter freezes, thaws, and winds.


Why Mulch the Garden in Winter?
The main idea behind winter mulching is to keep the ground frozen by shielding it from the warmth of the sun. A steady temperature will keep the plant in dormancy and prevent it from triggering new growth during a brief warm spell. Tender, new growth too soon will just result in more winter dieback. Mulching now will also help conserve whatever water is in the soil, so hopefully, you’ve been keeping your garden beds watered right up until the hard frost.


What Can You Use to Mulch the Garden in Winter?
-Any loose, insulating material will do. Keep in mind that you’ll need to remove the mulch in the spring, or at least rake it aside. So choose a material that’s easy to handle. Shredded mulch, straw, pine needles or shredded leaves are all easy to remove or easy to work into the soil.
-If your ground doesn’t freeze until after Christmas, you can use the cut boughs of your Christmas tree as a mulch covering. These are nice because they’re so easy to remove in the spring.
-The easiest mulch is snow cover. Snow is a great insulator and protector of plants.
-Some plants will simply collapse onto themselves and act as self-mulches. Chrysanthemums survive best if allowed to do this.


When Should You Apply Winter Mulch?
…To Protect Crowns & Surface Roots
(Especially newly planted plants) Mulching to protect most perennial plants is done when the soil has started to harden, which is generally after the first hard or killing frost. A hard frost is usually defined as when temperatures drop to below 25 F, but you’ll know it when you see the last of the hardy annuals crumbled and brown in the morning. At this point, your perennials should be well into dormancy and mulching around them won’t encourage tender new growth. The ground has had time to chill and absorb fall moisture. Go ahead and spread a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the base of the plants. Grafted plants, like hybrid tea roses, benefit from being mulched more heavily. These are usually mulched with compost or soil and are actually buried to just over the graft union. You can pile the soil up around the stems or you can use some wire fencing and fill with compost.


…To Prevent Desiccation
Some shrubs that are evergreen or somewhat evergreen, like rhododendrons and viburnums, can become desiccated by harsh winds. You can protect the branches and buds by wrapping them with burlap or by spraying on an anti-desiccant, like Wilt-Pruf. (Anti-desiccants are handy to have around. You can prolong the life of your Christmas tree with a spray. They’re also good for coating carved pumpkins.) If you choose to wrap your shrubs, make certain there is space between the branches and the burlap or the burlap will freeze onto the branches and cause its own problem. You can also fill the space between the shrub and burlap with leaves, for additional insulation. Woody plants don’t require as much protection as herbaceous perennials. However, a 2 to 4-inch layer of shredded bark mulch or compost does help conserve the ground moisture. Just be sure not to pile it around the base of the plants. Keep it several inches from the stems or you’ll invite rodents, like voles and mice, who like the cover of mulch while munching on the bark. Mulching up against the stems also holds too much moisture against the plant, providing ideal conditions for diseases to take hold.


…To Prevent Heaving
When the ground repeatedly freezes and thaws, it expands and contracts. When a plant is sitting in ground that expands and contracts, its roots get loosened from where they are anchored underground and the plant eventually gets pushed up through the surface of the soil, exposing its crown and roots to freezing temperatures and drying winds, which brings us right back to Reason to Winter Mulch #1. Again, you would wait until the top of the plant has died back and the ground has frozen, before applying a layer of mulch.


…To Prevent Erosion
(Especially important for fallow gardens, like vegetable gardens during winter.) Mulching unplanted garden beds can be done at any time in the fall. Ideally, you would plant a winter cover crop and let it sit until you till it under in the spring. If you choose not to plant a cover crop, it would still be beneficial to spread a layer of compost, manure or shredded leaves.


Removing Winter Mulch
The rule of thumb is to remove winter mulch in the spring when all danger of a hard frost is past. That’s sometimes very hard to judge, as anyone who’s experienced an Easter snowstorm can attest. However, when the ground starts to thaw and the smell of mud is in the air, it’s time to start raking and removing the mulch so that the ground can warm and new growth won’t be inhibited.


Source: The Spruce @ www.thespruce.com


KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTHThese are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!


Homemade applesauce is supeer easy to make and much more flavorful than store bought. Purchasing an inexpensive apple peeler/corer is a great investment and quickens prep time at least tenfold. Apples are peeled, cored and sliced in under 10 seconds! Here are a few of our favorite homemade applesauce recipes. Applesauce freezes quite well if you’d like extra on hand.


BAKED APPLESAUCE–The house smells phenomenal while preparing this recipe. The result is a chunky and rich sauce–SO much better than store-bought and SO easy!
5 TBS. water
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
2 TBS. lemon juice
1 tsp. cinnamon
4 lbs. apples, peeled, cored and halved


Preheat the oven to 375º. Combine all ingredients together in a large bowl then place in a large Dutch oven (5 qt.). Cover and bake, 1 hour and 15 minutes, stirring after 45 minutes. Yields 5-6 cups.


LEMON & SPICE APPLESAUCE–A wonderfully tangy sauce from the pages of Better Homes & Gardens magazine from October 2002.
5 lbs. cooking apples (Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, etc.), peeled cored and sliced
2 1/2 cups water
1-1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar
3 TBS. fresh lemon zest
3/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 tsp. apple pie spice (or 2 tsp. cinnamon)
1 TBS. vanilla extract


In a large Dutch oven, combine the apples, water, sugar, zest, juice and spice/cinnamon. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and simmer, covered for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Mash lightly with the back of a wooden spoon. Serve warm or cold. Makes 8 1/2 cups.


APPLE CRANBERRY SAUCE–This has become our favorite cranberry sauce for serving at the holidays. The combination with apples sweetens the sauce for those who aren’t huge cranberry fans. Kids love it!! This recipe is a great way to introduce them to cranberries. This dish came to us in the mid-90’s from the WISC-TV website.
4 cups apples, peeled and sliced
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1 TBS. lemon juice
1/2 lb. fresh cranberries


Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Reduce the heat and simmer about 30 minutes until the apples are tender and the berries have popped. Serves 8.


PRUNE & VANILLA APPLESAUCE–A delicious and high-in-fiber twist that wins over those who ‘think’ they don’t like prunes . . . now called dried plums on most packages due to the stigma surrounding prunes. This recipe comes to us from the pages of Everyday Food, January 2012.
3 1/2 lbs. apples, peeled, cored and sliced
3 TBS. fresh lemon juice
2 cups water
1 cup chopped prunes (dried plums)
2 TBS. brown sugar (dark if available)
4 tsp. vanilla extract


Bring all of the ingredients to a boil in a large saucepan. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender–about 25-30 minutes. Mash with a potato masher.




Anti-transpirants (also called anti-desciccants) are compounds applied to plants to reduce transpiration. Anti-transpirants are used on Christmas trees, cut flowers, newly
transplanted shrubs, and in other applications to preserve and protect plants from drying out too quickly. Anti-transpirants have also been used to protect leaves from salt burn and fungal diseases.


Winter cold and winds can be harsh on your landscape. Evergreen trees and shrubs maintain foliage throughout the winter months where they continue to lose moisture. With winter temperature fluctuations, moisture loss and the ground still frozen, transpiration occurs from the needles and leaves increasing water demand. If the roots cannot keep up with these demands the needles and leaves start to turn brown and die. Desiccation is a dehydration of the plant due to water loss from the leaves through transpiration. This is caused by long dry periods of cold and thaw along with winter winds.


Historically most growers use anti-transpirants during the winter months when cold
winds can seriously dehydrate and damage plants. Commonly called ‘winter burn’, the
most visible symptom is the browning of conifers (especially arborvitae and yews in our area) planted in areas exposed to harsh north winds. The use of anti-transpirants on holiday greenery and Christmas trees slows premature browning and in many cases acts as a flame retardant.


Apply anti-transpirants when the daytime temperatures start falling below 50º (late fall/early winter). Apply when the temperatures are above freezing and there is no threat of rain or frost within 24 hours.


Anti-transpirants are organic and break down under heat and light so it is recommended to spray again in late winter. Most are made from natural waxes and tree resins. The most popular brands of anti-transpirants include Wilt Stop® from Bonide, Moisturin from WellPlant, Inc. and Wilt-Pruf® .


However, it’s best to avoid plant-moisture problems in the first place by siting your plants appropriately, watering the soil as needed, and mulching to conserve soil moisture and to reduce and delay soil freezing so that roots remain active.


Sources for this article include: landscapedesignbylee.blogspot.com




Bromeliads from Bullis Bromeliads of Princeton Florida


After seeing them at a recent trade show, Klein’s is happy and excited to be offering an extensive collection of eye-catching and super-colorful large bromeliads shipped directly from Bullis Bromeliads of Princeton, Florida; perhaps America’s premier grower of bromeliads and related plants. Our collection contains up to two dozen bromeliad-types never seen before in the Madison area. Easier to grow than people think, this humungous family of plants not on includes the more typical floral-type bromeliads, but also air plants (tillandsias), pineapples (ananas), earth stars (cryptanthus) and many more others from all over the world. And Klein’s currently has many of them in stock! For months of color and years of enjoyment, stop by and check out Klein’s world of bromeliads!


Aechmea is the most diversified genus in regards to growth, appearance, and inflorescence.


Alcantareas are one of the largest genus’ in the bromeliad family. They are used as a focal point in many designs and can reach as much as six feet in diameter.


Ananas: The edible pineapple (Ananas comosus) was first introduced by Columbus to Europe in 1493. All others are ornamentals and used in many applications.


Androlepis have very stiff leaves and are popular for full sun applications.


Billbergias are bromeliads that usually have tubular shaped foliage with stunning, beautiful blossoms.


Cryptanthus are well known for their star-like shaped forms and bright colors. They are popular as ground covers in landscape and desktop decorations.


Guzmanias are well known for their spineless foliage and variability of inflorescences. They play more of a role in commercial nurseries for interiorscaping. The varieties we offer are not typically found everywhere.


Hohenbergia species in many ways resemble the Aechmea genera. They are most desired for their expansive rosettes and shapes as well as their tolerance for full sun.


As one of the most diverse genus’, Neoregelia’s have a wide selection of foliage colors, shapes, and confirmation of the leaves.


A terrestrial family, Orthophytum is diverse in form, shape and interesting blooms.


Portea are excellent for landscape and interior applications with long lasting blooms and stages.


Tillandsia is the most diverse group of the bromeliad family. They favor to live as epiphytes or in terrestrial environments.


About Bullis Bromeliads
Family owned and operated since 1977, Bullis Bromeliads resides and continues to grow on over 25 acres of land with over 18 acres of shade houses and 2.5 acres of greenhouses. Founded by the late Harvey R. Bullis II, Harvey III and Patricia Bullis now run this wholesale company with their two sons, nephews Rick and Thomas G., and brother Eugenio. We are proud the 4th generation, Harvey IV and Thomas Bullis, have joined the company for growing and hybridization. Family traditions are being passed on once again and we are grateful to keep Bullis Bromeliads family owned.


Traditionally known for producing large Aechmea and Alcantarea bromeliads, Bullis has the largest selection of small and large Neoregelia’s in the market. This encompasses species and hybrids produced and grown in house. Dozens of species from South America have been introduced to the market by us. At any one time, we have at least 400 varieties available with an incredible total of 20 Genus’. We are reputed for our quality, vast variety, and friendly customer service. Our bromeliads are used extensively in landscapes, interior applications, and retail garden centers all over, including Canada and the Caribbean. You will find the hybrids and species we grow are displayed in botanical gardens and conservatories around the country.


Check out their website @ bullisbrom.com


For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter.


Herb Fair
Saturday, November 2, 9:00-3:00
Olbrich Botanical Gardens


The Herb Fair annually sponsored by the Madison Herb Society, reaches out to the public through lectures and demonstrations and provides an outlet for members to expand their knowledge and abilities to use herbs.


Hear about herbs from speakers and vendors. Purchase herbal products. Make & take projects, demonstrations, and a Q & A station. Free! Sponsored by the Madison Herb Society. Visit www.madisonherbsociety.org.


Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.


All About Owls
Saturday, November 2, 2:00 p.m.-4:00 p.m.


Learn about Wisconsin’s twelve owl species, focusing on the three that nest in Madison, and how to identify these elusive birds of prey. Habitat, calls, courtship, and adaptations to acquire food will be discussed. Indoor class. Instructor: Sylvia Marek, Arboretum naturalist. Fee: $20. Register by October 29. Meet at the Visitor Center.



University of Wisconsin Arboretum
1207 Seminole Highway
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu for details.


Rotary Botanical Gardens’ Fall Symposium
Saturday, November 2, from 9:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m
Check-in: 8-9:00


Speakers & topics include:


Irvin Etienne, Horticultural Display Coordinator for the Garden at Newfields (Indiana Museum of Art): “Carmen Miranda in the Midwest”


Mark A. Konlock, Director of Horticulture at Green Bay Botanical Garden: “Bulbalicious”


Mark Dwyer, former Director of Horticulture, Rotary Botanical Gardens: “New and Exciting Perennials”


Please note:
Tickets will be available until October 28 or until sold out. This event is limited to 120 people. Get your tickets today! Register @ https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fall-symposium-tickets-70659932761 or http://www.rotarybotanicalgardens.org/wp-content/uploads/Fall-Symposium-2019-Registration-Form.pdf


Cost: $69 for RBG Members and $79 for Non-Members


Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Drive
Janesville, WI,


2019 Green Thumb Gardening Series
Wednesdays, October 9 thru December 4, 6:30-9:00
Dane County UW-Extension Office, 5201 Fen Oak Dr.


The 2019 Green Thumb Gardening Series will give you the practical knowledge to keep your home garden thriving! University of Wisconsin Extension educators, specialists, and local horticulture experts will provide in depth and accessible information for everyone from the novice to the experienced gardener.


Register for the complete class series at a discounted price ($70.00) or individual classes ($12.00) according to your interests @ www.eventbrite.com/e/2019-green-thumb-gardening-fall-classes-registration-70912552353?ref=elink




November 6: Native Plants and Pollinators: Lisa Johnson, Dane County Extension Horticulture Educator will discuss native prairie plants for gardens and some of the best plants to choose to attract butterflies and other pollinators.


November 13: Organic Vegetable Garden Planning and Techniques: Dane County Extension Small-Scale and Organic Produce Educator Claire Strader will cover organic techniques for growing vegetables, with an emphasis on practical strategies for a successful harvest.


November 20: Vegetable Garden Insect Pests and Diseases: Learn how to prevent and manage diseases and insects that afflict a variety of plants in the home vegetable garden. Taught by Lisa Johnson, Dane County Extension Horticulture Educator.


December 4: Winter Pruning of Trees, Shrubs and Fruit Trees: This presentation reviews appropriate pruning for deciduous and evergreen landscape trees and shrubs as well as proper pruning strategies and techniques for apple and pear trees.


Dane County University of Wisconsin-Extension
5201 Fen Oak Dr, Suite 138
608/224-3700 or dane.uwex.edu


Native Wisconsin
Sunday, November 10, 1:30 p.m.-3:30 p.m.
Family Nature Program


Explore Wisconsin’s native plants and animals. Naturalist-led hike, 1:30–2:30 p.m., indoor activities, 2:30–3:30 p.m. Designed for families with children ages 3–11. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.


University of Wisconsin Arboretum
1207 Seminole Highway
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu for details.


Winter Planter Workshop
Tuesday, November 12, 5:30-7:00
D.C. Smith Greenhouse, 465 Babcock Dr., Madison


The arrival of winter doesn’t mean that your outdoor planters are done for the year. Give them some winter love and wow your holiday guests when they come to your door. You’ll learn how to assemble the best winter arrangement for your front porch or patio. Supplies are included for one arrangement, and additional arrangements can be made for $20/each via cash at the workshop.


Cost is $30 plus fees. Register @: https://bpt.me/4344572


Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr. on the University of WI campus, Madison
608/576-2501 or allencentennialgarden.org for details.


Wreath-making from Nature
Saturday, November 23, 1:00 p.m.-3:00 p.m.


Using natural materials found at the Arboretum, make nature-inspired wreaths just in time for the holiday season. Materials supplied. You are welcome to bring ornaments and ribbons for decoration. Instructors: Marian Farrior, Arboretum restoration work party manager, and Jane Hawley Stevens, herbalist. Fee $25. Register by November 19. Meet at the Visitor Center.



University of Wisconsin Arboretum
1207 Seminole Highway
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu for details.


Wreath-making Workshop
Tuesday, November 26, 5:30-7:00
D.C. Smith Greenhouse, 465 Babcock Dr., Madison


Ring in the holiday season with this one of a kind wreath made by you! Create a 14” wreath (finished size 22-28”) using foraged greens and materials from the Garden. Garden staff will provide guidance and tips for creating your most beautiful wreath.


Cost is $30 plus fees. Register @: https://bpt.me/4344521


Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr. on the University of WI campus, Madison
608/576-2501 or allencentennialgarden.org for details.


Rotary Botanical Gardens’ Holiday Light Show
November 29-30 & 12/1, December 5-8, 12-15, 19-23 and December 26-30


Experience the magic of over 750,000 twinkling lights at the 2019 Holiday Light Show. In addition to being a beloved community and regional event, the Holiday Light Show serves as a major fundraiser for Rotary Botanical Gardens and creates significant economic impact to the Janesville area. NEW ENTRANCE & EXIT to enhance the visitor experience!


FREE shuttle service to make getting to and from the show easier. Visitors can park at Dawson Field (920 Beloit Ave.) beginning at 4:15, catch the shuttle and be delivered right to the front door of the Gardens. After you’ve enjoyed the show the shuttle will return you to Dawson Field.


Doors open 4:30 pm. Last ticket sold 8:30 pm.
Admission is $10.00 (13+) and $5.00 for kids 3-12. Children 2 and under are free.



Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr., Janesville, WI


Holiday Concert Series at Olbrich Gardens
Warm up the winter day with festive holiday music during Olbrich’s Holiday Concert Series.


Concerts are at 2 p.m. each Sunday in December. Suggested donation is $2.


December 1
Central Midwest Ballet Academy-Ballet. Central Midwest Ballet Academy’s The Little Matchstick Girl is a family friendly performance based on Hans Christian Andersen’s classic story. With a narrator to help audiences follow along, the dancers are sure to entertain with their enthusiasm and energy. Recognized for their excellence, our dancers are excited to help you kick off your Holiday Season celebrations!


December 8
Yid Vicious-Yiddish Folk. Madison’s homegrown Klezmer band Yid Vicious has been engaging and delighting audiences throughout the Midwest and beyond since 1995. Klezmer is Yiddish folk music, music for dancing and celebrating, combining old world folk traditions with contemporary musical influences. Join Yid Vicious at the Olbrich Holiday Concert series for a unique blend of traditional and contemporary klezmer, including instrumental dance hits and Hanukkah favorites.


December 15
Suzuki Strings—Youth Violins. Since 1990, Suzuki Strings of Madison has provided children of all ages quality, comprehensive musical instruction through the violin. By helping to foster a positive environment and working relationship between the teacher, child, and parent, students learn the tools for success and well-being that last a life time. Suzuki Strings of Madison offers children of all ages musical instruction on the violin using the Suzuki method.


December 22
Gerri DiMaggio-Jazz & Latin Music. Gerri DiMaggio will be performing a delicious banquet of holiday songs spiced with selections from the great American songbook and sultry Brazilian sambas.


December 29
Madison Maennerchor-Choral Music. Founded in 1852, the Madison Maennerchor is the second oldest German singing organization in the United States, and the oldest in Wisconsin. Our goal is the perpetuation of choral music, both German and American, German culture, and Gemuetlichkeit.


Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.


Dane County Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, April 13 thru November 16, 6:15-1:45
On the Capitol Square


Wednesdays, April 17 thru November 6, 8:30-1:45
In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.


For details visit www.dcfm.org


Dane County Holiday Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, November 23 thru December 21 (excluding Nov. 30), 7:30-noon
Monona Terrace


The Holiday Dane County Farmer’s Market is located in the majestic Monona Terrace. This bustling market features more than 60 vendors and is your one-stop shop for all of your local food needs for the holidays!


For details visit www.dcfm.org


NOVEMBER IN THE GARDEN-A checklist of things to do this month.
**Although the average first frost date for Madison is about Oct. 6, killing frosts have occurred as early as September 12 (1955). Be aware of quick weather changes this time of year. Be prepared to cover tender plants at any time.
___Visit Olbrich, Rotary or Allen Centennial Gardens and note plants of fall interest for
spring planting and best selection.
___Put up all bird feeders and fill daily as needed. Begin feeding raw suet.
___Make water available to the birds. Begin using a de-icer as needed.
___Dig new beds now! It’s easier now than in spring when super-busy.
___Continue planting spring bulbs till the ground freezes.
___Plant bulbs for forcing and put in a cool location for 10-12 weeks.
___Stop feeding houseplants and cut back on watering.
___Continue planting deciduous shrubs and trees until the ground freezes.
___Clean up stalks and leaves of annuals and vegetables, preventing viruses and pests
for next year’s garden.
___Continue harvesting brussels sprouts, kale, greens and root crops.
___Cut perennials back to 4-6”, leaving those for winter interest.
___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.
___Mow the lawn at shortest setting for last mowing of the season.
___Ready lawnmower and tiller for winter. Prep the snowblower.
___Keep gutters clear of leaves and debris.
___Clean empty pots and containers for winter storage.
___Purchase marsh hay and rose protection. Wait till the ground freezes to apply.
___Wrap trunks of susceptible trees to protect from rodents.
___Visit Klein’s—The poinsettias are just about ready. Look for end of the season savings on all remaining spring bulbs.


Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:


Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:


For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.comor 800/274-7333


For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.comor 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998


For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624


BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’SThis is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.


—Our employees prep the store inside and out for the upcoming holidays.


—Wreaths, roping and pine boughs arrive mid-month from northern Wisconsin.


—Violas, hardy annuals and herbs continue to arrive for next February’s Garden Expo at the Alliant Energy Center.


—Most plant material has been ordered for the 2020 growing season. We order early to ensure you best selection in spring.


Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page. We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.


THE MAD GARDENER–“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.


We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.




Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.


Join Klein’s on Twitterwhere we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.


We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.


Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/recycling/plastic.cfm



Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.

Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.


A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.

We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.

Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.

There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.


Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.

We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.

Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.

During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.

It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.


DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.
Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661


Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com
Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com
Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com
Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com


University of Wisconsin Extension
1 Fen Oak Ct. #138
Madison, WI 53718


Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic
Dept. of Plant Pathology
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706


Insect Diagnostic Lab
240 Russell Labs
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706


U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab
8452 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593


American Horticultural Society


Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)


Invasive Species


Community Groundworks
3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4
Madison, WI 53704


Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)


Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program
Department of Horticulture
1575 Linden Drive
University of Wisconsin – Madison
Madison, WI 53706


The Wisconsin Gardener


Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr.
Madison, WI 53706


Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave.
Madison, WI 53704


Rotary Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr.
Janesville, WI 53545


University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711


University of Wisconsin-West Madison
Agricultural Research Center
8502 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593


Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.
•Bird of paradise
•Bull nettle
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Deadly nightshade
•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
•Glory lily
•Holly berry
•Indian tobacco
•Lily of the valley
•Mescal bean
•Morning glory
•Mountain laurel
•Night-blooming jasmine
•Poison ivy
•Poison sumac
•Water hemlock


Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/
•Autumn Crocus
•Black locust
•Carolina jessamine
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Christmas berry
•Christmas Rose
•Common privet
•Corn cockle
•Cow cockle
•Day lily
•Delphinium (Larkspur)
•Dutchman’s breeches
•Easter lily
•Elephant’s ear
•English Ivy
•European Bittersweet
•Field peppergrass
•Horse nettle
•Jerusalem Cherry
•Lily of the valley
•Milk vetch
•Morning glory
•Poison hemlock
•Rosary pea
•Sago palm
•Skunk cabbage
•Star of Bethlehem
•Wild black cherry
•Wild radish
•Yellow jessamine