August 2020 Newsletter

Specials may change as the month progresses, supplies run out and as our fall crops become available later in the month.

A SEMI-LOAD OF HOUSEPLANTS HAS ARRIVED FROM FLORIDA! Quality and selection are now at their peak. Some of our more interesting items include a selection of air plants, curly-leaved dracaenas, terrarium miniatures, birds-of-paradise, colorful bromeliads and unique succulents, in addition to indoor tropicals in all shapes and sizes.

Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.

Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

Monday thru Friday : 9:00-6:00

Saturday: 9:00-5:00

Sunday: 10:00-4:00

Throughout August, visit Klein’s and check out our specials on perennials, shrubs and remaining annuals. Specials and selection change weekly so give us a call for the most up-to-date information at (608) 244-5661 or on our home page @ www.kleinsfloral.com. We pride ourselves in having the best cared for plants in even the hottest weather.

And later in August, watch for the appearance our fall mums, ornamental kales and cabbages, mixed fall containers and cool weather vegetables, including; chard, kale, lettuces and cole crops. We still have a nice selection of seeds for the fall vegetable garden, including; radishes, spinach, lettuce and SO much more!

August 3–Full Moon

September 7–Labor Day. Special Store Hours: 10:00-4:00

Top ten flower lists abound, from compilations of the the ever popular what is your favorite flower question, to compilations of large scale production and sales statistics.

The United States Department of Agriculture collects a variety of flower statistics relating to the domestic floral industry. One of the categories they follow, cut flowers, covers the types of cut flowers grown in the United States and sold for ornamental purposes.

The following top ten list provides the most recent statistics related to the sheer number of cut flowers produced and sold in the United States. It does not reflect the monetary value of the flowers. Most flowers on the list are measured in terms of individual stems. Gladioli and snapdragon sales are measured in spikes (multiple flowers per stem) and carnation sales are measured in bunches.

1. Tulips – 156,760 (1,000 Stems)

2. Gerbera Daisies – 114,583 (1,000 Stems)

3. Lilies – 109,823 (1,000 Stems)

4. Gladioli – 87,855 (1,000 Spikes)

5. Iris – 82,073 (1,000 Stems)

6. Roses – 71,598 (1,000 Stems)

7. Snapdragons – 33,114 (1,000 Spikes)

8. Delphinium and Larkspur – 23,305 (1,000 Stems)

9. Orchids – 12,038 (1,000 Blooms)

10. Lisianthus – 10,386 (1,000 Stems)

(Source: USDA Floriculture Crops)

A comparable list of cut flowers imported into the United States shows domestic production and sales of cut flowers pales in comparison to the importation and sale of cut flowers.

According to the most recent statistics cut flowers imported into the United States, again measured in terms of 1,000 stems, were:

1. Roses – 1,439,165

2. Carnations – 635,721

3. Chrysanthemums – 473,687

4. Alstroemeria (Peruvian Lily) 275,916

5. Gypsophila (Baby’s Breath) – 85,662

6. Lilies – 50,791

7. Orchids – 43,383

(Source: USDA Floriculture and Nursery Crops Yearbook)

Combined top import and domestic statistics reveal the top five cut flowers sold in the United States.

1. Roses

2. Carnations

3. Chrysanthemums

4. Lilies

Where Do Cut Flowers Come From?
Next time you glance at a bunch of flowers on someone’s desk, at your local florist, or wherever, ask yourself where they came from.

Just a generation ago, the answer probably would have been from one of a myriad of flower growers throughout the western and southern United States or perhaps from Holland. But, just as America’s taste in flowers is shifting from traditional mums and carnations to more unique specialty blooms, so has their place of origin been changing in recent years.

California is still America’s top cut flower producer, with Florida second for flowers and foliages. But, despite their long history of quality fresh flower production, many domestic growers are struggling to keep up with foreign competition. In fact, foreign imports dominate today’s flower market, in some cases accounting for 90% or more of all U.S. sales within a particular category.

That may be good news for consumers, because it means an increasingly plentiful supply of beautiful fresh flowers from around the world throughout the year. But, it’s a challenge for domestic producers, many of whom are already facing higher energy, land, and labor costs than their offshore competitors.

Today, Colombia is the dominant producer of U.S. cut flowers, with roses, carnations, spray chrysanthemums and alstroemeria among its top crops. Ecuador takes a close second. Both countries have exceptional climates for commercial growing, and both have successfully carved out their own niches in the most popular product segments. Ecuador’s top crops include roses, delphiniums, asters, Gypsophila (baby’s breath), and mixed bouquets.

Together, Colombia and Ecuador accounted for roughly 90% of all roses, 98% of all carnations, and 95% of all chrysanthemums sold in the U.S. last year. And, they’re not the only countries competing for America’s love of flowers.

Holland’s vast wealth of cut flowers is still readily available in the U.S., too. Tulips lead the list of top exports from the Netherlands, accounting for almost 95% of all U.S. tulip imports. Roses, lilies, gerberas, freesias, snapdragons, and cymbidium orchids are other Dutch favorites.

Recently, Canadian cut flower growers have begun tapping into the American market, too, exporting roughly 4.8 million stems and bunches to their southern neighbor. Mexico, Costa Rica, and Chile are other budding flower producing nations.

To compete, domestic growers are responding by focusing more and more on specialty crops and high-end novelty varieties with new traits, such as sweeter fragrances and bolder colors.

U.S. flower lovers reap the rewards, because on the whole, flowers today are more beautiful, longer lasting, and in many cases more economical than they were for our parents or grandparents.

So, next time you pick up a bunch of flowers for your home or send a bouquet to someone special, consider the fact that at least some of those delicate blossoms most likely traveled half way around the globe just for you. You may not know whether they came from South America, Europe, the Orient, or even Africa, but you can be sure they passed through a lot of caring hands to carefully plant, grow, ship, design, and deliver them to you.

Hi Barb,

You say you planted your Endless Summers just last year. The flowers you had last year were flowers from buds already set on the potted plants. Potted plants are stressed and will readily bloom. In addition, growers try to ensure the plants have buds and blooms for increased sales.

BUT…once you plant into the garden (and this is true of nearly all shrubs and most perennials), they spend their energy during their first 2-3 years rooting out into the surrounding soil and very little, if any, energy into blooming, The first really good flush of bloom usually comes during the third through fifth years.

The acid you added to the soil is for flower color (blue vs. pink) only. During these first seasons, a balanced fertilizer used per package instructions is more important to ensure strong roots.

I hope this was of some help. Simply be patient….blooms will come down the road so long as your plants remain healthy and are positioned in correct light.

Thanks for your question,

Anyone digging, or planning on digging, in the State of Wisconsin, no matter how big or small the job, is required by law to contact Diggers Hotline at least three working days before digging. Many homeowners in Wisconsin have a long list of outdoor projects that need to be tackled in the spring and summer months. These projects could include anything from a new patio, to installing a fence, to simply planting a garden, shrubs or trees…all requiring the help of Diggers Hotline

Diggers Hotline was established in 1976 to increase worker and public safety, prevent damage to underground and overhead facilities, protect the environment and to help ensure continuity of utility and communication services. Wisconsin’s one-call center has helped millions of callers obtain information on the location of underground facilities and safe working distances from overhead lines — all for absolutely no cost to the caller.

A: Diggers Hotline is a free service that you use before you do any kind of digging to make sure you don’t damage underground lines.

Let us know at least three working days before you start digging and we will help you avoid costly or dangerous buried lines by alerting the owners of lines in the digging area. Diggers Hotline is not responsible for the actual marking of the lines.

A: Diggers Hotline coordinates between excavators (such as a homeowner) and the owners of buried lines. It’s up to the owners of the lines to mark the locations near your job site with paint and/or flags. Private lines, such as an electric line to a detached garage or other out-building or a line from a propane tank that may be on your property, are considered the responsibility of the landowner. A locating company can be hired to mark private lines.

A: Private lines are facilities that are owned by homeowners or private businesses and are contained fully on their property. Because these lines do not cross in to the public right-of-way they are not required to be members of Diggers Hotline and will not be notified of locate requests.Examples of private lines include propane lines, sewer laterals, sprinkler systems, ornamental lighting and electric lines to a barn or garage.

A: Yes, and it doesn’t matter how deep you are digging. State law (Wisconsin Statute 182.0175) requires notifying Diggers Hotline before you excavate, grade, trench, dig, drill, augur, tunnel, scrape, plow cable or pipe. Excavation, according to the law, means anything that moves, removes or displaces earth rock or other material in or on the ground.

Source: The Diggers Hotline website @ www.diggershotline.com/home

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.

If planning on bringing any plants indoors that have spent the summer outside, it’s almost (during the first week of September) the time to begin preventative measures to avoid bringing insect pests inside along with your plants. It’s far better to begin a regular routine now than to deal with pest problems once established indoors.

Systemic pesticides, unlike those directly sprayed on the insect, are absorbed by the plant itself and makes the plant toxic for insects to feed on them. Soft tissued plants absorb the chemicals quicker than woody plants which require the 4-6 week period for the systemic to work. We recommend starting Labor Day weekend for application for two reasons. First off, it happens to fall in that 4-6 week window before our average killing frost. Secondly, it’s easy to remember to apply it at about the same time from year to year.

The Bonide systemic we sell at Klein’s comes in two sizes (the smaller size packaged for houseplants and the larger for garden plants though the exact same product in both). The systemic needs to be reapplied about every 5 weeks throughout the winter to prevent insect infestations. When one brings plants indoors, we not only bring in the adults, but also their unhatched eggs. Reapplying also prevents plant-to-plant infestations. The most common indoor plant pests controlled by the systemic include aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs, spider mites and thrips. Though mentioned on the label, we’ve found the systemic a little too mild to rid plants of scale and it seems relatively ineffective against the fungus gnats that live in the soil.

Carefully use the product according to package instructions; usually a few teaspoons stirred into the surface soil of your average sized potted plant. Dosage is based on pot size and soil volume, not plant size. For application, use a disposable plastic teaspoon and not a dinner spoon. Apply the systemic when the plants need to be watered and once applied, water them thoroughly. It’s not recommended to use the systemic in rooms where small children or pets have access to the treated plants.

To date this has been a fantastic summer for growing vegetables in the containers filling a large part of my driveway. The weather has been perfect, with well-timed and sufficient rainfall, hand in hand with lots of sunshine and heat. Because I’m diligent with my preventive spraying regimen (organic sprays only), there are few blemishes on my dozens of potted tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, okra, cucumbers, kales and herbs—be it from insects or fungal issues. Plants are full of fruit and producing abundantly.

A part of the success may come from the relatively problem-free vegetable varieties I’ve chosen to grow. After years of disappointment, I’ve learned that choosing the right varieties can be the difference between boom or bust. Here are some of my new favorites I’ve grown this year:

Galahad Tomato—New! Delicious early determinate beefsteak. Excellent late blight resistance and early maturity also make Galahad a strong contender in the North. The round, 7–12 oz. fruits can be harvested with green shoulders and ripened red in storage, or ripened on the vine. Vigorous plants. AAS Regional Winner. High resistance to Fusarium wilt, gray leaf spot, late blight, nematodes, tomato spotted wilt virus, and Verticillium wilt. Determinate. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Celano Tomato—Celano is a patio type grape tomato with a strong bushy habit. It is best grown with some support, such as a tomato cage. This semi-determinate hybrid tomato is an early producer of sweet oblong fruits weighing about 0.6 oz. each. Plants grow to 40” in height and spread to 24” and have excellent late blight tolerance. In comparing it to other grape tomatoes on the market, one AAS judge summed it up by saying “Celano is sweeter, the texture is better, the color is deeper, the plants are healthier, and the yield is phenomenal.” A 2020 AAS Winner from Park Seed.

Paisano Tomato—A high-yielding bush San Marzano. Thick-walled 4–5 oz. fruits in the true San Marzano shape. Good flavor and high solids for sauce or canning. Concentrated sets of paste tomatoes midseason. Most of the bright red fruits are blunt tipped, so they don’t crush during harvesting. Medium determinate plant. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Ninja Bell Pepper—Resistant to bacterial leaf spot. In addition to its excellent disease package, Ninja is mid-early with a high yield potential of large, high-quality fruits. The large plants form a good canopy to protect the fruits from sunscald. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Jedi Jalapeño Pepper—New! High yielding, continuous set type. With large fruits, Jedi’s fruits avg. 4-4 1/2″ and are slow to check (show small cracks in skin). The large plant is of the “continuous set” type that produces over a long harvest window, especially in regions with a long growing season. The jalapeño variety with the highest potential yield. High resistance to bacterial leaf spot. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Orient Charm Eggplant—Purple Asian type. 8-10″ long by 1 1/2-2 1/2″ diameter. Compared to Orient Express, fruits are similar in shape but lighter in color, ranging from light lavender to bright purple. Blush of white at calyx end. Strong plant with high yields. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Jambalaya Okra—Traditionally okra has been a crop that’s most productive in hot, southern gardens. This variety, however, thrives in even shorter season climates. Jambalaya okra embodies the spirited flavor of Creole cooking with its succulent, 5-ridged, meaty pods on gorgeous, compact plants that are perfect for containers…with beautiful flowers to boot! From Jung Seeds.

Darki Parsley—Easy to grow market and culinary standard. A very dark green selection of the moss curled type. Use it for garnishes, salads, and cooking. It performs well in containers and allows for multiple cuttings per season from one planting. Upright leaves make harvesting easy. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Prospera Basil—New! Classic Genovese appearance plus downy mildew resistance.

Prospera is an exciting new release. Bred for improved downy mildew resistance, flavor, and appearance, this classic Genovese type has 3″ long glossy, dark green leaves and strong Fusarium resistance — and the added benefit of strong resistance to downy mildew. Suitable for field, greenhouse, and container production. Ht. 20-24”. From Johnny’s Select Seeds.

Iznik Cucumber—A gourmet mini-cuke from Germany. Thin-skinned, smooth, crisp cucumbers are prime when harvested at 3 to 4 inches. Short-vined plants have small leaves and, because they are parthenocarpic (do not require pollination to set fruit), they are extremely high-yielding even under adverse conditions or without bee activity. Grows well in containers, trellis gardens, greenhouses and regular gardens. Great used fresh or for pickles. From Jung Seed.

Over the years, I’ve often heard at work how disappointed customers are with the dahlias they’ve planted. It seems to me that Wisconsin is not the perfect place to grow the perfect dahlia—that is for most people. Dahlias oftentimes stop blooming in our summer heat, foliage often yellows and becomes pocked with holes from slugs and other pests, and earwigs find their blossoms irresistible—not to mention woodchucks, deer, rabbits, etc. Having said all that, as I was growing up in northeastern Wisconsin, my grandmother had the most beautiful dahlia collection imaginable. She prided herself with the biggest blossoms towering over stately, pest-free plants. She overwintered the tubers to perfection in the basement root cellar. Her collection covered the full array of colors available and in all flower types. Her favorites were the huge dinnerplate and decorative types. Dahlia connoisseurs abound in the Madison area; growing perfect plants with perfect blossoms. For most area gardeners, however, growing the perfect dahlia is nothing but a pipe dream left for the connoisseurs.

I, too, have had a lot of failures with dahlias over the years. Sure, they look great in catalogs and on the store shelves, but in reality, mine often succumbed to the same problems that less experienced gardeners witnessed—namely yellow leaves, poor flowering in hot weather, slugs, earwigs, etc. That is until I began growing dahlias in pots a few years back. Now, I too am growing perfect dahlias. Granted they’re not the 4 foot beauties my grandmother grew. Instead, they’re mostly the 2’ mid-sized varieties available in the springtime at most garden centers, including Klein’s. These dahlias are not the bedding dahlias sold in 4-packs. Rather, these are the more vigorous, bushy varieties usually sold in 5 or 6” pots. Flower colors run the full dahlia spectrum and blooms can be either single or double. I prefer the showier double blooms that remind me of smaller versions of the giant dahlias of my childhood memories.

As the years have passed, I’ve learned to perfect growing these dahlias in containers. I currently have a collection of about a dozen favorites. I grow them in full morning sun—avoiding the hot afternoon sun. I keep them well-watered; never letting them dry out too much or too often (doing so tends to send them into dormancy). Regular fertilizing is of utmost importance while they’re actively growing and performing. I fertilize them every 7-10 days—two times with a balanced fertilizer and the third time with a bloom booster. I continue this regimen into September.

About October 1, I move the containers to the garage to begin the drying and curing process. In late October, I yank the foliage from the dried up pots. The foliage detaches easily from the tubers left in the soil. Next I move the dahlias (still planted in their pots) to the cool root cellar in the basement where they remain for the duration of the winter. Unlike some of my stored bulbs, which need to be checked in on once in a while for watering during the winter, I keep the dahlia containers bone dry.

Then about March 1, I move the pots to a warmer part of the basement and begin watering them again. In a few weeks, new foliage appears. I keep them near lights in the basement, but any bright spot will do until they are moved back outdoors again in mid-May. By the time I move them outdoors, plants are usually 8-10” tall and sometimes already loaded with flower buds.

Dahlias can remain in the same containers for many, many years without splitting them or stepping them into larger containers.

For the past few weeks I’ve seen many a female monarch laying her eggs on the common, swamp and annual milkweeds throughout my yard. She lays a single white egg on the underside of milkweed leaves. But to date, I have yet to see a single caterpillar this season.

In addition, I’ve found that instead of monarch caterpillars, I have tons of fuzzy black, white and orange caterpillars on nearly every plant plant. Then in just the last few days I’ve found clusters of orange, aphid-like insects inhabiting many of the plants. Unlike regular aphids these giant “aphids” scurry right back to the plant when knocked to the ground.

What are all these strange creatures inhabiting the milkweed in my garden and are they harming my monarchs? Time for a web search!

Although the adults feed on nectar, the larvae of this insect are carnivorous. They only eat moth and butterfly caterpillars, including monarchs!! The adults do not attack their prey by stinging. Instead, they repeatedly bite the caterpillars until they are a manageable size, and then carry pieces back to the paper nest to feed their hungry young.

This clear-winged, brown-eyed organism is a parasite of moths and butterflies, including monarchs!! The adult lays its eggs on the caterpillar. When the egg hatches, the maggot burrows through the caterpillar’s skin and feeds on its internal organs. The monarch caterpillar dies as the larva of this insect emerges.

These tiny insects have plump, pear-shaped bodies. They feed by sucking plant juices, and they excrete droplets of a sugary waste product called honeydew. Large numbers feed together in colonies. They are often called plant lice. When these insects are abundant they can damage the milkweed plant.

This organism lays its eggs on milkweed in clusters of a dozen or more eggs. When they hatch, the caterpillars feed together on the same milkweed plant in groups or “colonies.” Because they feed together, the caterpillars cause noticeable leaf damage to milkweed. These caterpillars are typically found in the late summer. These are my fuzzy caterpillars.

This red and black herbivore eats milkweed, and is named after its host plant. Like monarchs, its coloration warns and protects this insect from predators. The toxins in milkweed provide a chemical defense. This insect belongs to the world’s largest order of insects, the Coleoptera.

This insect’s name includes “milkweed,” the plant on which it spends all stages of its life. Like monarchs, its bold orange and black warning colors protect it from predators. This insect is classified as a “true bug,” with characteristic sucking mouthparts. Milkweed is this bug’s primary food source. However, when milkweed is scarce, it can shift from being a herbivore to a scavenger and predator.

This organism is not an insect, but it is an insect predator. It can eat a wide variety of insects, including monarchs. To feed, it injects venom into its prey. Next it pumps digestive juices that turn the prey’s body tissues into a liquid that the creature can consume by sucking. If you find an empty monarch egg, or a larva with only its exoskeleton remaining, it may have been killed and eaten by this 8-legged predator.

Source: www.learner.org

KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!

Lemongrass is an essential ingredient to many Southeast Asian cuisines; from India all the way to the Philippines and Indonesia. Americans are most familiar with lemongrass in Thai and Vietnamese cooking. Lemongrass is most commonly used in teas, soups and curries and is delicious in many seafood dishes. Lemongrass is also used as a medicinal herb and in perfumes.

Klein’s carries both West Indian (which we currently have a nice supply of in stock and @ 25% off) and East Indian lemongrass. The former (West Indian) is more upright with each stem having a bulbous base and is native to Cambodia, Burma and Thailand and points west to India and Sri Lanka. The latter (East Indian -C. flexuosus) is airier and ‘grassier’ in appearance and is native to maritime Southeast Asia; including Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia and the Philippines. Both can be used interchangeably in most recipes. However, the West Indian lemongrass is the preferred choice with most cooks. The bulbous stems store better and longer than the East Indian. Lemongrass is now available at nearly all supermarkets.

Though an annual here in Wisconsin, lemongrass (especially West Indian lemongrass) can be easily overwintered indoors in a bright location. It may go somewhat dormant and take on an unhealthy appearance by winter’s end, but rebounds nicely once outdoors again during our hot and humid summers. Stalks can be harvested as desired and fill in quickly. Plants should be grown in a large pot in full sun and prefer to be kept evenly moist while actively growing.

Salad: Toss minced lemongrass with lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, minced shallot, hot sauce, and sliced Napa cabbage.
Soup: Simmer sliced lemongrass in chicken broth with garlic and ginger. Strain; add shredded chicken, rice noodles, lime juice, and cilantro.
Shellfish: Combine white wine, chopped lemongrass, chopped shallots, and crushed red pepper. Add two pounds of mussels; cover and steam until all shells have opened.

MALAYSIAN BEEF CURRY–Source: www.bonappetit.com

For the spice paste:

8 large dried New Mexico chiles

4 lemongrass stalks

1/2 cup chopped shallots

6 garlic cloves, peeled

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

3 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon golden brown sugar

Cover chiles with very hot water and soak until soft, about 45 minutes. Drain. Stem, seed, and chop chiles.

Cut off bottom 4 inches from lemongrass stalks; chop and transfer to processor (reserve tops of stalks for stew). Add shallots, garlic, coriander, cumin, ginger, and 1 teaspoon ground black pepper; process until finely ground. Add 1/2 cup water, chiles, fish sauce, and sugar; process to paste. Can be made 1 week ahead. Transfer to bowl. Cover; chill.

For the stew:

3 pounds boneless beef chuck roast, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

1 13.5- to 14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk

8 kaffir lime leaves

2 whole star anise

1 cinnamon stick

1 tablespoon tamarind paste or tamarind concentrate

Chopped fresh cilantro

Steamed rice

Smash reserved tops of lemongrass from spice paste with mallet or rolling pin. Bend in half; bundle with kitchen twine. Mix beef and spice paste in slow cooker. Stir in lemongrass bundles, coconut milk, lime leaves, star anise, cinnamon, and tamarind. Press meat down to completely submerge. Cook stew on low heat until meat is very tender, 41/2 to 5 hours. Tilt pot and spoon off excess fat from surface of stew. Remove lemongrass bundles, lime leaves, star anise, and cinnamon stick. Transfer stew to bowl. Sprinkle cilantro over and serve with steamed rice. Serves 6

NOTE: If you don’t have a slow cooker, use a covered Dutch oven; cook the curry in a 325ºF oven until the beef is tender, about 2 hours, adding 1/2 cup water if the stew is dry.

SWEET, SALTY AND SOUR MARINADE–for grilling 2 pounds of pork, fish, shrimp or scallops. From: www.bonappetit.com

6 1/2 TBS. light brown sugar

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup fish sauce

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

2 TBS.chopped peeled fresh ginger

4 red Thai chiles or 6 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced

3 TBS. minced lemongrass (from peeled bottom 4″ of 2 large stalks)

Stir sugar and 3 TBS. water in a small saucepan over low heat until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat. Combine lime juice, fish sauce, and 3 tablespoons water in a medium bowl. Whisk in 1/3 cup sugar syrup (reserve remaining syrup for glaze). Stir in cilantro, ginger, chiles, and lemongrass. Put pork or seafood in a glass, stainless-steel, or ceramic dish. Toss with marinade. Cover; chill for at least 3 hours or overnight. Remove pork or seafood from marinade, pat dry, and grill as desired. Simmer marinade and reserved sugar syrup in a small saucepan until reduced to 3/4 cup. Brush glaze onto meat or fish during the last few minutes of grilling.

LEMONGRASS MOJITO–Ever-so-easy and refreshing! Makes two drinks.

2 lemongrass stalks

6 large fresh mint leaves

3 tablespoons sugar

6 tablespoons white rum

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Ice cubes

1 cup chilled club soda

Microwave lemongrass on high for 40 seconds. Cut bottom 7 inches from each stalk. Slice thinly (save tops for garnish). Combine sliced lemongrass, mint, and sugar in shaker; mash well with muddler or wooden spoon. Add rum and lime juice; mash until all sugar dissolves. Strain into 2 highball glasses. Fill with ice; top with club soda. Garnish with lemongrass tops.

VIETNAMESE LEMONGRASS CHICKEN–An easy recipe adapted from Food & Wine Magazine, October 2007.

2 tablespoons fish sauce
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast/thigh, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons cooking oil
2 fresh lemongrass stalks, tender inner white bulbs only, minced
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
3 chilies, seeded and minced
1 scallion for garnishing

In a bowl, combine the fish sauce, garlic, curry powder, salt, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the sugar. Add the chicken meat to coat. In a small skillet, mix the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar with 1 tablespoon of the water and cook over high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Cook without stirring until a deep amber caramel forms. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of water. Transfer to a bowl.

Heat a wok over high heat. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the lemongrass, shallot, and chilies and stir-fry until fragrant. Add the chicken and caramel and stir-fry until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is slightly thickened. Transfer to a bowl and top with the scallion. Serve with steamed white rice.

BBQ THAI CHICKEN–From www.epicurean.com.

Four Large chicken Leg/Thigh Pieces

One cup Sweet Dark Soy Sauce

4 tsp. Powdered Ginger

2 tsp. Turmeric Powder

One stalk lemon Grass, Bruised and thinly sliced

Mix all sauce ingredients well. Pour 2/3 of the mixture in a resealable plastic bag with the chicken, seal the bag then roll it around with your hands to mix sauce well into chicken. Place bag into the fridge with the extra sauce for four hours (Overnight if possible).

When ready to BBQ, place chicken on a hot grill for four or five minutes per side then turn your heat to low and cook an additional 8 to 10 minutes per side until reaching desired cooking level of doneness. Baste each piece with the extra 1/3 cup of marinade. Do not use the sauce that was in the bag with the chicken due to possible raw/cooked contamination.

What is a weed? To some, it’s a plant out of place. To others, it’s an unwanted plant. Still, others seem to think a weed is simply a plant that overtakes a lawn by crowding out grass. One familiar plant that seems to fall in each of these categories is white clover. But white clover didn’t always hold such dubious distinctions.

Clover was once highly prized in lawns because of its soft texture and its contribution of nitrogen to the soil. Then in the 1950s, a lawn-seed company campaigned to convince the public that clover was noxious. A lot of lawn lovers were converted into clover clippers – a lucky occurrence indeed for the company, which had recently introduced a chemical to kill clover.

Nevertheless, white clover can be particularly frustrating for those trying to eradicate it from their lawn because it’s difficult to kill. Clover leaves can literally shed weed and feed products – causing the leaves to turn brown at the margins. When this happens we reach for more potent chemicals. This whole sequence is ironic, since the valuable nitrogen in weed and feed products could have been supplied, at least in part, by the clover.

For those not fond of white clover, it is generally a greater problem (more aggressive) on wet soils, in years of excessive rainfall, and under high potassium fertilization. Under these conditions, cutbacks on supplemental watering and testing the soil before using potassium fertilizers should be the first steps in controlling this “weed.”

On the other hand, since clover provides benefits to the lawn, perhaps it would be a good subject around which to start rethinking lawn weed control.

(The previous article comes to you from the UW Extension website and was first posted in our August 2011 newsletter. We could no longer find a link to the page)

Buttonbush is a deciduous shrub that is native to most of the lower 48 states (including Wisconsin) save the Pacific Northwest region and some western states. It is a member of the Coffee family, Rubiaceae. It typically grows in USDA zones 4 through 9. In these zones, Buttonbush requires full sun to partial shade, and medium to wet soils. Buttonbush can tolerate flood conditions and shallow standing water for short periods of time. It does not do well in dry soils. In natural settings, Buttonbush is often found in thickets, low woods, swamps, and stream margins, where older shrubs will have many branches and twisted trunks. Since it is tolerant of very wet soils, it is an ideal candidate for a rain garden or wetland restoration project.

Growing up to 12′ tall and 8′ wide, this showy shrub is visited by many different species. The name of this shrub comes from the interesting flowers, which are arranged in small spheres with protruding anthers. Its fragrant, tiny white flowers bloom all summer and are attractive to many different bee and butterfly species, including the swallowtail butterfly. Fruiting heads appear throughout the winter and are consumed by many waterfowl and shorebirds. Although the flowers and seeds are consumed, the foliage is poisonous to livestock and other animals.

Klein’s currently has a nice selection of First Editions’ Fiber Optics® buttonbush @ 25% off while supplies last. Fiber Optics® is a distinct improvement over the coarser Cephalanthus occidentalis that grows twice the size of this compact selection.

Summer Concerts at Olbrich Gardens are a well-loved tradition and we are thrilled to be able to continue them during this challenging year.

Concerts will feel a bit different this year with a limited capacity and social distancing. Here are some of the changes you will see:

Concerts will be cancelled and tickets refunded in the event of bad weather. Call will be made by 3 p.m. and posted on this page, on the homepage, and on Facebook.

Olbrich Concerts in the Gardens 2020 Schedule:

(All concerts are on Tuesdays at 7 p.m.)

The Whiskey Farm—The Whiskey Farm was born in Madison in 2010. Winners of multiple Madison Area Music Awards, the band is known for their multi-instrumentalists, layered harmonies, and lyric-driven songs. The Onion A.V. Club described The Whiskey Farm as straddling the line between bluegrass and folk, blending technical wows with accessible songwriting for very pop-minded Americana,” and Isthmus called them a big boost for the little music scene thriving here in the middle of America.

The Whiskey Farm has released four studio albums, and they frequently partner with social organizations to support their work through their Music for Good series.

To be determined.

To be determined.

To be determined.

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

September 2 thru October 31, 2020

Wednesdays thru Saturdays in September from 7:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m. in October, rain or shine

In the gardens @ Olbrich Botanical Gardens

Definition: Gleam n. a flash of light; n. an appearance of reflected light; v. shine brightly like a star or light; v. appear briefly

GLEAM, Art in a New Light, is an annual exhibit featuring local, national and international artists creating light-based installations throughout Olbrich’s 16-acre outdoor gardens. Visitors wind their way through dimly lit pathways, encountering strange and surprising forms that pulse and shimmer in the night around every corner.

Experience the gardens after dark in a whole new light!

GLEAM will be viewable daily, during regular public daytime hours in September and October. When the sun sets, the Gardens will open for extended viewing hours and art installations will be illuminated.

Admission for the general public is $15 for adults 13 & up ($11 for members) and $7 for children ages 3-12 ($6 for members).

Tickets available at the door starting at 7:30 p.m. pending online ticket sales. Gardens will close to the public at 6 p.m. on evening viewing dates. Last ticket sold at 10 p.m. (9:00 in October).

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

AUGUST IN THE GARDEN-–A checklist of things to do this month.

___Give the garden at least 1” of moisture per week.

___Mow as little as possible and with mower raised to at least 2”.

___Mulch beds to conserve moisture and keep down weeds.

___Deadheading spent blooms as needed.

___Collect seeds for next year’s garden.

___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.

___Take pictures of your garden for record keeping.

___Stake and support tall plants as needed.

___Divide daylilies as they finish blooming.

___Transplant and divide iris and peonies.

___Plant late crops of lettuce, spinach, radishes, etc.

___Order spring bulbs for fall planting: daffodils, tulips, hyacinth, etc.

___Plant fall blooming crocus bulbs.

___Fertilize potted plants at least every 2 weeks. Follow directions.

___Stop fertilizing all trees and shrubs.

___Keep and eye on the weather. Water as needed.

___Watch for pests and control as needed or desired.

___Shop for early mum selection and fall pansies.

___Begin checking out the garden centers for spring bulb selection.

___Stop watering held over amaryllis for 8 weeks for holiday blooms.

___Begin taking cuttings of geraniums, coleus and other plants to winter over.

___Visit Klein’s—Watch for end of season savings on perennials, shrubs and select annuals.

Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887

Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447

Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441

Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901

Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864

Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369

Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400

Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333

Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990

Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395

Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131

Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333

Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852

Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637

John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838

McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998

High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387

Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038

Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794

Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035

Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379

White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624

BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.

—The poinsettias continue grow and thrive in our back greenhouses. They’re so big already, we’ve had to give them adequate spacing.

–The first of the mums, pansies and fall cole crops go out onto the sales floor.

—Summer maintenance projects are under way.

—We continue to space and pamper the fall mums that are now just beginning to bloom.

—We begin ordering plants for the 2021 season.

Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page. We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.

Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.

We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.

Join Klein’s on Twitter where we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.

We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.

Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/recycling/plastic.cfm

Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.

Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.

A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.

We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.

Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.

There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.

Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.

We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.

Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.

During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.

It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.

DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.

Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661

Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com

Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com

Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com

Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com

University of Wisconsin Extension

1 Fen Oak Ct. #138

Madison, WI 53718

608/224-3700

Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic

Dept. of Plant Pathology

1630 Linden Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

Insect Diagnostic Lab

240 Russell Labs

1630 Linden Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab

8452 Mineral Point Rd.

Verona, WI 53593

608/262-4364

American Horticultural Society

Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)

also http://www.mailordergardening.com/

Invasive Species

Community Groundworks

3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4

Madison, WI 53704

608/240-0409

Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)

Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program

Department of Horticulture

1575 Linden Drive

University of Wisconsin – Madison

Madison, WI 53706

608/265-4504

The Wisconsin Gardener

Allen Centennial Gardens

620 Babcock Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

608/262-8406

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave.

Madison, WI 53704

608/246-4550

Rotary Gardens

1455 Palmer Dr.

Janesville, WI 53545

608/752-3885

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888

University of Wisconsin-West Madison

Agricultural Research Center

8502 Mineral Point Rd.

Verona, WI 53593

608/262-2257

Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.

•Bird of paradise

•Bull nettle

•Castor bean

•Chinaberry tree

•Crocus

•Daffodil

•Deadly nightshade

•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)

•Foxglove

•Glory lily

•Hemlock

•Holly berry

•Indian tobacco

•Iris

•Jimsonweed

•Lantana

•Larkspur

•Lily of the valley

•Marijuana

•Mescal bean

•Mexicantes

•Mistletoe

•Morning glory

•Mountain laurel

•Night-blooming jasmine

•Nutmeg

•Oleander

•Philodendron

•Poison ivy

•Poison sumac

•Pokeweed

•Poppy

•Potato

•Privet

•Rhododendron

•Rhubarb

•Water hemlock

•Wisteria

Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/

•Aconite

•Apple

•Arrowgrasses

•Autumn Crocus

•Azaleas

•Baneberry

•Bird-of-Paradise

•Black locust

•Bloodroot

•Box

•Buckeye

•Buttercup

•Caladium

•Carolina jessamine

•Castor bean

•Chinaberry tree

•Chockcherries

•Christmas berry

•Christmas Rose

•Common privet

•Corn cockle

•Cowbane

•Cow cockle

•Cowsliprb

•Daffodil

•Daphne

•Day lily

•Delphinium (Larkspur)

•Dumbcane

•Dutchman’s breeches

•Easter lily

•Elderberry

•Elephant’s ear

•English Ivy

•European Bittersweet

•Field peppergrass

•Foxglove

•Holly

•Horsechestnut

•Horse nettle

•Hyacinth

•Iris

•Jack-in-the-pulpit

•Jerusalem Cherry

•Jimsonweed

•Lantana

•Larkspur

•Laurels

•Lily of the valley

•Lupines

•Mayapple

•Milk vetch

•Mistletoe

•Monkshood

•Morning glory

•Mustards

•Narcissus

•Nicotiana

•Nightshade

•Oaks

•Oleander

•Philodendrons

•Pokeweed

•Poinsettia

•Poison hemlock

•Potato

•Rhododendron

•Rhubarb

•Rosary pea

•Sago palm

•Skunk cabbage

•Smartweeds

•Snow-on-the-mountain

•Sorghum

•Star of Bethlehem

•Wild black cherry

•Wild radish

•Wisteria

•Yellow jessamine

•Yew