‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—JUNE 2021
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
608/244-5661 or info@kleinsfloral.com
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS:
Our ‘Mad Gardener’ and ‘Houseplant Help‘ Are Ready for Your Questions
We Reuse Your Teal-colored 5” Klein’s Pots
FAQs—Wedding Flowers
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
You Asked about a Problem Clematis
All About Rain Garden Plants
Plant of the Month: Peonies
Klein’s Favorite Rhubarb Recipes
Product Spotlight: Jack’s Classic 20-6-22 Petunia FeED
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—From May 2021
—About Safe and Organic Spinosad
—Great Grasses
—Both Beautiful and Tasty: Edible Flowers
June in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
THE MAD GARDENER
“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
KLEIN’S ‘HOUSEPLANT HELP’
You can contact Klein’s in-house indoor plant experts by emailing to Houseplant Help for sound information and advice regarding indoor tropicals, succulents, blooming plants and so much more.
For many years, customers’ indoor plant questions have been directed to Klein’s Mad Gardener (see below). Now you have the opportunity to contact our indoor plant experts directly. We’ve posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
We reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
FOR NEIGHBORHOOD EVENTS OR GARDEN TOURS that you would like posted on our web site or in our monthly newsletters, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison area.
JUNE STORE HOURS:
Through June 20:
Monday thru Friday : 9:00-7:00
Saturday: 9:00-6:00
Sunday: 9:00-5:00
After Father’s Day, June 20:
Monday thru Friday : 9:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00
Open Sunday, July 4: 10:00-4:00
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
Throughout June, visit Klein’s and check out our specials on annuals, vegetables, hanging baskets and containers. Specials and selection change weekly so give us a call for the most up-to-date information at (608) 244-5661 or on our home page @ www.kleinsfloral.com. We pride ourselves in having the best cared for plants in even the hottest weather and throughout the month we’ll continue to offer a full selection of annuals and perennials.
June 14–Flag Day
June 20–Father’s Day
June 20–First Day of Summer
June 24–Full Moon
‘THE FLOWER SHOPPE’:
It’s Wedding Season!! The following tips come to us from the Society of American Florists @ safnow.org/aboutflowers/
FAQs—Wedding Flowers
-How far in advance should I contact the florist when ordering wedding flowers?
Flowers are one of the most important aspects of your wedding day. They set the mood and tone for the event and will be remembered for years to come. Many florists can accept only a set number of weddings on a given day, so it is important to contact your florist well in advance to begin planning. A good rule of thumb is to contact your florist at least three months in advance.
However, if your wedding is going to be an exceptionally elaborate event, take place during peak wedding season or fall on a holiday, then six months to a year is not too soon to contact your florist. This will allow the florist to begin looking for any props or specialty items you might need. Wedding flowers can be highly specific and colors often have to be very precise, so florists need advance notice to place flower orders.
-What should I bring to the flower shop when I have my wedding consultation?
The more information you can provide the better your florist will be prepared to offer creative suggestions. Your florist will want to create a spectacular and memorable event for you. Anything you can bring will be beneficial. Pictures that depict what you have in mind are extremely helpful. Bring a photo of your dress and a sample of the fabric or lace if you have it, as well as swatches and photos of the bridesmaids’ dresses. Also think about what “style” of wedding you want. If you are not sure, your florist can offer suggestions based on your wedding plans so far.
-Is it OK to visit several florists to get estimates?
Sure, but tell the florists that you are gathering estimates rather than making an appointment for a consultation. Be prepared with a detailed list of your floral needs. The florists will be able to give a rough estimate without a lengthy meeting. If you are gathering ideas and then comparisons, it is best to inform the florist of your intentions.
Floral designers are trained and highly skilled floral artists. Their ideas have value. You may be asked to pay a consultation fee if you want to discuss a florist’s actual ideas for your wedding. In most cases, the fee will be applied to the flowers once the order is placed.
Will a florist work within my budget?
Besides suggesting specific types of flowers that will work within your budget, a professional florist can offer helpful suggestions as to what flowers might be used at both the ceremony and reception.
A few examples: bridesmaids’ bouquets can become table decorations; the bride’s bouquet can become the head table arrangement; the pew markers can become festive bows on cars or doors; altar designs can flank the buffet or cake table, etc.
Florists are overflowing with creative ways to make use of your budget and flowers wisely.
To set up an appointment at Klein’s for your wedding consultation, contact Darcy at 608-244-5661 or @ floral@kleinsfloral.com.
YOU ASKED. . .
We have two clematis vines planted about 15′ apart on either side of a trellis. One of the plants has wilted quite a bit (blooms and leaves). Both plants were doing great. What’s happening? Todd
Hi Todd,
Were these clematis that were just planted this spring or are these plants that were put in before this season? Clematis are notoriously difficult to get started, but once established, they are very long lived perennial vines. At the greenhouse, we often tell customers to expect a few failed attempts at getting a clematis started. If after the third time they fail, we tell the customer that the problem could be a bad location or soil type.
Clematis require full sun to flower best, yet they require “cool feet”; meaning the area where the vine meets the soil needs to be shaded. As the vine grows, it accomplishes this on its own. But initially, shading the base of the plant requires our help by planting other plants in front of the clematis. One can use either annuals or perennials to achieve this, depending upon one’s goals.
Clematis also prefer an alkaline soil. If your soil leans toward acidic, you may have to add a bit of lime to the soil to neutralize it. Soils in this part of the Midwest tend to be naturally alkaline, but oak or pine trees can alter the make up just enough to make the soil incompatible with the clematis.
Whether a new or established clematis, inspect the base of the plant for damage before assuming that the heat caused it to wilt. Because clematis stems are woody and very brittle, they oftentimes snap at the base when bumped by a garden tool, lawn mower or children’s toys, especially if the plant is young. Rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks and woodchucks can also cause damage to the base of the plant. If the vine has been damaged at the base, it may resprout again in a little time.
Clematis wilt is another possibility. Clematis wilt is a very common fungal problem where all or part of the plant simply shuts down after already greening up for the season. On an established plant, simply cut away the infected parts. The fungus only affects the tops of the plant and the clematis will readily resprout from down below. On newly planted clematis the effects are more detrimental and the plant may not be able to recuperate. Large flowered varieties seem to be more easily infected than small-flowered and heirloom varieties. Adding garden sulfur (a natural fungicide) appears to be the best solution to remedy this situation.
Thanks for your question,
DID YOU KNOW. . .
. . . that Klein’s collects, sterilizes and reuses your teal-colored 5” ‘Klein’s’ pots?
Due to costs, we are unable to reuse most plastic pots and trays and never those from other retailers. But we are happy to take back and reuse the only the teal-colored 5” Klein’s pots and their accompanying trays. Simply bring in your cleaned out pots and trays and drop them off with the associates at the checkout counters. We ask that you recycle or dispose of all other pots, containers and trays in compliance with your municipality’s guidelines. We do not reuse the plant identification tags.
Madison is currently NOT accepting rigid plastics (flower pots and trays) for recycling due to import restrictions enacted by China for scrap material. At present, there is no end market to accept the type of plastic scrap the mixed rigid plastic program produces. Until further notice, rigid plastics are to be placed in the refuse bins for disposal.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Jack’s Classic 20-6-22 Petunia FeED
Jack’s Classic® Petunia FeED was originally developed for the professional grower. Designed for plants that are inefficient when taking up iron up from their root zone, this special formulation provides essential amounts of Iron (Fe) needed for consistent plant growth. Jack’s Classic Petunia FeED contains an enhanced micronutrient package that includes 3 forms of iron and extra magnesium that will produce lush green plants in any growing condition. This low phosphorus formulation keeps plants fuller.
Petunia FeED is especially effective in hanging baskets containers that are watered often. Contains the extra iron necessary to prevent yellow tips and extra magnesium to keep lower leaves green.
We recommend an application of Jack’s Petunia FeED at a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon every 7-10 days.
Use on ALL iron hungry plants. Iron hungry plants include:
- Petunias
- Calibrachoa
- Bacopa
- Verbena
- Vinca
- Salvia
- Rhododendron
- Gardenia
- Pansy
- Snapdragon
- Scaevola
- Diascia
- Nemesia
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach
ENTRY: MAY 17, 2021 (About Safe and Organic Spinosad)
Just today a customer asked me about the use of Spinosad as a safe and organic pesticide for his garden plants. Not being very familiar with it, I did a bit of reading so I can be somewhat prepared for when the next customer asks.
Spinosad was developed in the mid-1990s. It’s a secondary metabolite from the aerobic fermentation of Sacharopolyspora spinosa (a naturally occurring soil microorganism). Spinosad is a nerve and stomach poison and must be ingested to kill insects. Paralysis and death occur within minutes although insects may remain on the plant for up to two days. Spinosad has limited translaminar activity, meaning it can move somewhat into leaf tissue. This makes it effective against leafminers that feed within leaves. It has very low toxicity to non-target organisms including pollinators and other beneficial insects.
Spinosad will control: caterpillars (e.g. armyworms, European corn borer, cabbageworm, corn earworm, cutworms, hornworm) and borers, thrips, leafminers, sawflies, Colorado potato beetle. Less effective on beetles and not effective against sucking insect pests such as bugs and aphids.
Products
—Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Ready to Spray .5%
—Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Beater- Concentrate .5%
—Monterey Garden Insect Spray – 16 Oz. Concentrate
—Gardens Alive- Bulls-Eye (http://www.gardensalive.com (link is external)
**Note that Klein’s carries products from Bonide
How to use: Only a small amount per gallon is required- about 4 tablespoons per gallon of water). It’s very important not to spray spinosad more than 2—3 times per growing season to reduce the risk of pests developing resistance to the active ingredients. Organic farmers alternate spinosad with B.t. for controlling caterpillar pests.
Source: extension.umd.edu
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ENTRY: MAY 18, 2021 (Great Grasses)
I planted my newest grass into my landscape today; a lovely new big bluestem variety called Blackhawks. With a shorter nature and nearly black late-season color, it’s sure to be a standout in the garden.
As the years have passed, my interest in and collection of hardy grasses continues to grow, now including little bluestem, switch grasses, blue oat grass, prairie dropseed and Japanese forest grass and many others. I relish the fact they bring year-round interest to the garden.
Great Grasses: Winter Interest an Outstanding Quality
By Alma Gaul for The Quad-City Times, January 2012 @ qctimes.com
If you’re a gardener who still doesn’t have any ornamental grass in your yard, Jeff Epping of the Olbrich Botanical Gardens in Madison, Wis., can tell you what you’re missing.
During the growing season, the structure and foliage of ornamental grasses slides into the background and creates a nice backdrop for colorful flowers such as coneflowers or daylilies, he said.
Grasses also add movement, a bit of sound and texture to your yard. Depending on variety, they provide height, and they are relatively low-maintenance.
“The greatest thing about them, though, is their winter interest,” Epping said.
Ornamental grasses flower in fall and their foliage generally turns tan. Then they remain standing through the cold and snow when other perennials wither, providing something to look at in an otherwise-bleak landscape.
Most ornamental grasses are perennials and sun-lovers, but there are exceptions.
If you’re a novice, Epping has three suggestions to get you started. Being a horticulturist, he uses proper botanical names.
1. Miscanthus sinensis ‘Adagio’
This smaller-scale, fine-textured grass grows 3 to 3½ feet high, and when it flowers (puts forth its fluorescence) in the fall, it approaches 5 feet.
“It is refined, flowers beautifully and stands up well,” Epping said.
(Miscanthus is a word you’ll hear often in the world of ornamental grasses. It refers to a genus of about 15 species of perennial grasses native to regions of Asia and Africa; many of the showier ornamental grasses are miscanthus.)
2. Switchgrass panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’
This is an American native that grows 3 to 5 feet high and is very drought-tolerant. It does better in drier, leaner soil than miscanthus varieties.
The tips of its leaf blades are reddish.
3. Hakonechloa macra
This is a green grass with an appealing growth habit like a waterfall and – unlike most ornamental grasses – it can grow in shade as well as sun.
It grows about 3½ feet high as well as wide.
Because it can grow in sun and shade, a gardener “can plant a drift of it at the edge of a tree and then blend it into the shady area,” Epping said. “It has a nice flow.”
“A downside is that it doesn’t stand up that well in winter, so its contribution in that season of the year is lower than many other grasses.”
Hakonechloa macra is more drought-tolerant than golden hakone, which was the “perennial plant of the year” in 2009, Epping said.
Overall, ornamental grasses are low-maintenance and definitely don’t require the chemicals some plants do.
Because winter interest is a dominant quality, they should be left standing, then cut to 4 to 6 inches high around March, before the bulb plants begin to emerge. With large clumps, this can be a challenge; try tying your clump in several places, beginning at the bottom, and then cut with any kind of saw or trimmers that will work.
Grasses also may need to be divided every few years because if the crown gets too thick, the center can begin to die and you may be left with a ring of grass and nothing in the middle.
Grasses can be used in many ways – as focal points, as a hedge (for privacy, for providing a backdrop to colorful perennials and for their own beauty) or as in-fill here and there.
Epping is a proponent of planting “everything” – trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs and annuals. The trick to avoiding a hodgepodge look, to pulling the landscape together, is repetition. By planting multiples of the same plant throughout the garden, one adds cohesion.
“Otherwise the garden is schizophrenic and the eye has no place to settle,” he said.
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ENTRY: MAY 30, 2021 (Both Beautiful and Tasty: Edible Flowers)
Nasturtiums are among my favorite edible flowers and just today I planted 6 large pots of them for use in my summer salads. Their sweet, yet peppery flavor add a unique zip in addition to adding color to my salads.
Edible landscapes combine ornamental flowers with vegetables, fruits and edible flowers. Floral ingredients such as peppery nasturtiums or tart calendula add flavor, texture, and color, and transform an ordinary salad into an exciting dish.
There is a wide variety of colors, forms, and sizes of edible flowers. Many are grown as annuals – plants that complete their life cycle in one growing season – and are easy to grow in garden beds, raised beds and various containers.
Edible flowers are used to garnish foods. However, not all flowers are edible! It is important to choose only flowers that are safe to eat, have not been treated with pesticides, and that go well with the dish you are preparing.
Never experiment by eating plant parts unless you are sure they are harmless. Consult a reliable reference for edible flowers. Even if one part of plant is safe to eat, do not assume that all parts are safe. Often only a particular part of the plant is edible. For example, the red stalks of rhubarb may be eaten; however, the green leaves, roots or flowers cannot be eaten as they contain toxic compounds.
Remember that “edible” does not always mean “palatable.” The word “edible” means you may safely consume the flower. Unfortunately, it does not always mean the flavor is appealing. Some flowers such as lavender have a bitter or astringent taste and are best used sparingly as a garnish. The same flower grown in different locations can taste different.
Some popular edible flowers and serving suggestions
Alpine Strawberry (Fragaria vesca var. vesca)
Flowers have a strawberry flavor; leaves used in tea
-Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
Flowers and leaves have a licorice flavor; used in tea
-Apple or plum (Malus spp.)
Flowers are mild with sweet floral flavor; use candied or as garnish
-Arugula (Eruca sativa or Diplotaxis tenuifolia)
Flowers and leaves have very spicy flavor; use sparingly, leaves become bitter when flowers bloom
-Bachelor buttons (Centaurea cyanus)
Flowers have a delicate spicy-sweet flavor; eaten fresh or dried for tea
-Basil (Ocimum spp.)
Fresh flowers and leaves both have typical basil flavor; different varieties vary in flavor and some have additional flavor such as lemon basil; freeze leaves to retain flavor long-term as dried leaves lose flavor
-Beebalm (Monarda didyma)
Flowers have a citrusy, sweet, hot, minty flavor; flower taste may differ by species or cultivar and red flowers are said to have the best flavor
-Borage (Borage officinalis)
Flowers have a cucumber flavor; leaves may also be used, but are hairy
Note: Borage has a diuretic effect in large quantities
-Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Petals are a slightly bitter saffron substitute; more for color than flavor
-Chamomile, German (Matricaria chamomilla)
Flowers have an apple scent and flavor for tea; use fresh or dried
-Chamomile, Roman (Chamaemelum nobile)
Flowers have an apple scent and flavor for tea; use fresh or dried
-Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
Flowers and leaves have onion flavor; float or sprinkle flowers on soups, salads, vegetables
-Coriander (Coriander sativum)
Flower has flavors of anise, cumin, orange, and sage
-Cuban oregano (Plectranthus amboinicus)
Grown primarily for leaves; flowers and leaves have more pungent oregano flavor than Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens)
-Dandelion (Taraxacum offcinale)
Flowers have honeylike flavor when picked young, but older flowers will have a bitter flavor; use young leaves in salads
Note: Because this plant is normally considered a weed in American landscapes, be sure to harvest plants that have not been treated with or grown in pesticide-treated landscapes.
-Daylily (Hemerocallis spp.)
Flower bud flavor compares to green beans and eggplant but open flower flavor is milder; petals used in pancakes, frittatas, dips; dried buds used in Chinese sweet and sour soup; flavor will vary between cultivars
-Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Seeds, foliage, flowers are used in pickling, dips, sauces, fish dishes
-Elderberry (Sambucus caerulea)
Flowers are sweetly flavored and scented; cook into pancake batter or brew into tea; use berries for jelly, jam, wine
Caution: Use cooked flowers and berries only. Always remove all stems, leaves, bark, etc., and cook flowers or berries before consuming. Consuming any part of elderberry raw or berries when red and unripe can cause digestive problems.
-Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
Flowers taste mildly anise, licorice-flavored
Note: Seeds may cause contact dermatitis
-Greek oregano (Origanum heracleoticum)
Flowers have a spicy, green flavor
-Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)
Flowers have a mild cranberry / citrus flavor; use to add a red color to teas
-Hops (Humulus lupulus)
Conelike flowers – “hops” – are used dried or fresh to brew beer
-Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis)
Flowers taste similar to tonic water
-Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia or L. officinalis)
Use sparingly; flowers have sweet perfumed flavor that can become bitter, astringent; enhances dishes with fragrance; used in ice cream, baked goods, herbes de Provence, teas, lemonade
-Lemon (Citrus limon)
Flowers taste citrusy and sweet
-Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
Leaves and flowers are mildly lemon-scented
-Lemon verbena (Aloysia citriodora)
Flowers and leaves used dried for tea, flavoring lemon syrup
-Lilac (Syringa spp.)
Flower flavors vary depending on cultivar from no flavor to a green flavor to a true floral lilac flavor; use flowers in ice cream, soft cheeses, pastries
-Linden (Tilia spp.)
Flowers have a sweet, honeylike flavor and fragrance
-Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens)
Grown primarily for leaves, but flowers can also be added fresh or dried to evoke a milder oregano flavor in Mexican or Italian food
-Mint (Mentha spp.)
Flowers and leaves have minty flavor; use in teas, fruit salad, cocktails, sauces, chutneys
-Nasturtium (Tropaeloum majus)
Both flowers and leaves have a peppery taste; use fresh in salads for spicy flavor
-Oregano (Origanum vulgare)
Grown primarily for leaves; flowers and leaves have light minty flavor with thyme overtones
-Pansy (Viola spp.)
Flowers have a grassy, green flavor
Note: Dark-colored flowers may make your tongue dark temporarily
-Pea (Pisum sativum)
Flowers have a floral, pealike flavor; use fresh in salads
-Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans)
Flowers are sweet with fruity, mint flavor with a little spiciness
-Pinks (Dianthus caryophyllus)
Flowers have a sweet clove flavor; remove the base of the petal (usually white in color) as it is usually bitter; use in sorbets, cold drinks, salads with fruit
-Red clover (Trifolium pratense)
Flowers are sweet; good brewed as a tea or fresh in limited quantities
Note: Flowers are not easily digestible, so use in moderation
-Rose (Rosa rugosa alba, R. rugosa, R. damascena, R. gallica)
Use petals but remove white base of petal as it’s bitter; use rose hips (seed heads) for tea and vinaigrette
-Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Flowers have more mild flavor than leaves; sprinkle on salads, pasta, poultry-based soups.
-Sage (Salvia elegans)
Use flowers and leaves fresh or dried sprinkled on pasta, salads, poultry
-Scarlet Runner Beans (Phaseolus coccineus)
Make use of young pods as well as flowers
-Scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.)
Flower flavors vary depending on variety (rose, orange, mint, etc.); flowers and leaves used to flavor jellies, sugar, butter, cakes, tea, honey
-Signet marigold (Tagetes signata)
Flower petals taste like spicy tarragon
Caution: May be harmful in large amounts. Eat occasionally and in moderation.
-Squash (Curcurbita spp.)
Flowers can be stuffed with cheeses or fried
Note: Remove flower parts (stamens and pistil) before using.
-Sweet marjoram (Marjorana hortensis)
Flowers and leaves have a warm spicy flavor
-Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum)
Tiny white flowers have a sweet, vanilla flavor; dried leaves smell like newly mown hay Caution: Has a blood-thinning effect. Do not consume if taking blood-thinning medications.
-Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
Flowers have same but milder flavor than leaves
-Tuberous begonia (Begonia x tuberhybrida)
Flower petals have a tangy citrus flavor
-Tulip (Tulipa spp.)
Flower petals have a pea or bean flavor; remove from stem and use in salads, with soft cheeses
-Yucca (Yucca spp.)
Flowers are sautéed, boiled, roasted, dried and lightly seasoned, or used to thicken soups, added to salads, and used as garnishes
Source: extension.umn.edu
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
Late May and early June mark the arrival of rhubarb to the garden, farmers’ markets and CSA shares. Rhubarb seems to be one of those love/hate tastes. Even among rhubarb lovers, there’s disagreement over whether the red or green varieties taste better. Though the tart young stalks can be eaten raw, rhubarb is usually cooked in or later added cooked to sauces and desserts.
Rhubarb is a very hardy perennial here in southern Wisconsin. Clumps continue to grow larger as the years pass, but are most productive if, like all perennials, the clump is divided every few years. Rhubarb is a close relative of common dock. It probably originated in China thousands of years ago before making its way to Europe. Both potted and bareroot rhubarb are available at Klein’s in the springtime.
RHUBARB PILAF–Yet another recipe from the indispensable From Asparagus to Zucchini: A Guide to Farm-Fresh, Seasonal Produce. Our employee reviews say, “Wonderful, easy and a deliciously sweet side dish.”
1 cup uncooked bulgar
2 1/2 cups boiling water
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 TBS. oil
1 clove minced garlic
2 1/2 cups chopped rhubarb
7 dried apricots or peaches, chopped
1/4 cup apple juice
1 tsp. cinnamon
pinch of cayenne pepper
3 TBS. honey or brown rice syrup
1/2 tsp. tamari or soy sauce
1/4 cup slivered almonds
fresh mint
Place the bulgar in a medium bowl, stir in boiling water, cover and steep 30 minutes. In a large skillet, sauté onion in oil until translucent. Stir in the garlic and rhubarb and sauté 1 minute. Add the apricots, apple juice, cinnamon and cayenne. Cover and cook over medium heat until bubbly. Add the honey and tamari. Stir in the bulgar. Garnish with almonds and mint and serve warm. Serves 4.
RHUBARB CRUNCH–This super easy recipe is a family favorite that appeared in a St. Albert the Great church cookbook from a number of years ago. Wonderful served warm and with vanilla ice cream.
1 cup flour
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
3/4 cup oatmeal
1/2 cup melted butter
4 cups diced rhubarb
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
2 TBS. cornstarch
1 tsp. vanilla
Mix the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, oatmeal and melted butter. Press 1/2 of the mix into the bottom of a 9×9” well-greased pan. Dump the rhubarb over the crust. Cook the water sugar and cornstarch until thick. Cool a bit and add the vanilla. Pour over the rhubarb and sprinkle the top with the rest of the crumb mix. Bake at 375º (or 350º in a glass pan) about 55 minutes or until bubbly and browning.
RHUBARB SOUR CREAM CAKE–This recipe comes to us from Vermont Valley Farm via one of our staff who is a CSA member.
1/4 cup butter
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp. vanilla
2 1/3 cups flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. salt
4 cups rhubarb cut into 1/2” pcs.
1 cup sour cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. nutmeg
Preheat oven to 350º. Cream together the butter and brown sugar. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Stir in the flour, baking soda and salt. Fold in the rhubarb and sour cream. Spoon the batter into a lightly greased 9×13” pan. Sprinkle with the sugar and nutmeg. Bake for 40 minutes. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.
RHUBARB SAUCE–Serve this sauce warm with grilled chicken or pork or chilled with cheeses and sliced baguettes. This recipe comes to us from the June 2007 issue of Better Homes & Gardens magazine.
2 large red onions, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup vinegar
1/3 cup dried cherries or golden raisins
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
1 TBS. lime juice
1/4 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. ground ginger
3 cups rhubarb, fresh or frozen, cut into 1/2” pcs. (thawed & drained if frozen)
In a saucepan, combine all ingredients except the rhubarb. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the rhubarb, cover and continue to simmer 5 minutes to thicken (15 minutes if using frozen). Serve warm with meats or cold with cheese or baguettes. Makes 2 1/2 cups.
GINGERED RHUBARB FOR VANILLA ICE CREAM–From the Willie St. Co-op Reader of May 2002.
3 cups rhubarb, cut into 3/4” pcs.
1 TBS. fresh orange juice
1 TBS, minced fresh ginger
1/3 cup sugar
1 TBS. butter
vanilla ice cream
Combine everything in a saucepan and cook until tender, stirring. Serve warm with ice cream or cold as a compote. Makes 2 cups.
NATURAL NEWS–
With the increasing popularity of rain gardens for the control of runoff into our streams and lakes, we at Klein’s have been increasingly asked by customers about plant choices for their new rain gardens. Simply stated, the best choices for rain gardens are perennials native to our area that can tolerate both wet conditions and drought. Beyond that, choices tend to be based on intended design, overall appearance and personal taste. The following is an assortment of rain garden plant lists for the Midwest compiled from various websites.
Probably the very best website devoted to rain gardens is from Wisconsin’s own DNR (Department of Natural Resources) @ http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/
Asclepias incarnata–Red Milkweed
Baptisia lactea–White False Indigo
Iris versicolor–Blue Flag Iris
Penstemon digitalis–Smooth Penstemon
Allium cernuum–Nodding Pink Onion
Liatris pycnostachya–Prairie Blazingstar
Parthenium integrifolium–Wild Quinine
Boltonia asteroides–False Aster
Rudbeckia subtomentosa–Sweet Black-Eyed Susan
Vernonia fasciculata–Ironweed
Aster novae-angliae–New England Aster
Solidago ohioensis–Ohio Goldenrod
Carex vulpinoidea–Fox Sedge
And from http://www.mninter.net/~stack/
Native Plants for Wet Soils — Sunny Areas:
•Sweet Flag – – – – – – – – (Acorus calamus)
•Giant Hyssop – – – – – – (Agastache foeniculum)
•Canada Anemone – – – – (Anemone canadensis)
•Marsh Milkweed – – – – (Asclepias incarnata)
•New England Aster – – (Aster novae-angliae)
•Marsh Marigold – – – – (Caltha palustis)
•Tussock Sedge – – – – (Carex stricta)
•Turtlehead – – – – – – (Chelone glabra)
•Joe Pye Weed – – – – – (Eupatorium maculatum)
•Boneset – – – – – – – – (Eupatorium perfoliatum)
•Queen of the Prairie – (Filipendula rubra) –
•Sneezeweed – – – – – – (Helenium autumnale)
•Blueflag Iris – – – – – – (Iris versicolor)
•Soft Rush – – – – – – – (Juncus effusus)
•Great Blue Lobelia – – (Lobelia siphilitica)
•Switchgrass – – – – – – (Panicum virgatum)
•Prairie Phlox – – – – – – (Phlox pilosa)
•Mountain Mint – – – – – (Pycnanthemum virginianum)
•River Bulrush – – – – – (Scirpus fluviatilis)
•Softstem Bulrush – – – (Scirpus validus)
•Riddell’s Goldenrod – – (Solidago riddellii)
•Tall Meadow Rue – – – (Thalictrum dasycarpum)
•Culvers Root – – – – – (Veronicastrum virginicum)
•Golden Alexander – – – (Zizia aurea)
Native Plants for Wet Soils — Shady Areas:
•Caterpiller Sedge – – – (Carex crinita
•Cardinal Flower – – – – (Lobelia cardinalis)
•Ostrich Fern – – – – – (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
•Virginia Bluebells – – – – – – (Mertensia virginica)
•Sensitive Fern – – – – – (Onoclea sensibilis)
Shrubs — Sunny or Shady Areas:
•Black Chokeberry – – – (Aronia melanocarpa)
•Red Osier Dogwood – – (Cornus serecia)
•Low Bush Honeysuckle – (Diervilla lonicera)
•Pussy Willow – – – – – (Salix caprea)
•Blue Arctic Willow – – – (Salix purpurea ‘Nanna’)
Shrubs — Sunny Areas Only:
•Meadow Sweet – – – – (Spiraea alba)
•Steeplebush – – – – – – (Spiraea tomentosa)
•High Bush Cranberry – (Viburnum trilobum)
And finally from the University of Minnesota:
Aquatic Plants: Grown in less than 12” of water, soil is always saturated
Carex comosa–Bottlebrush Sedge
Carex crinita–Fringed Sedge
Carex lacustris–Lake Sedge
Carex stricta–Tussock Sedge
Eleocharis palustris–Spike Rush
Iris versicolor–Blue Flag Iris
Juncus effusus–Soft Rush
Sagittaria latifolia–Common Arrowhead
Scirpus acutus–Hardstem Bulrush
Scirpus validus–Softstem Bulrush
Non-Aquatic Plants: Wildflowers or Forbs
Agastache foeniculum–Fragrant Hyssop
Allium stellatum–Prairie Wild Onion
Anaphalis margaritacea–Pearly Everlasting
Anemone canadensis–Canada Anemone
Arisaema triphyllum–Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Asclepias incarnata–Swamp Milkweed
Asclepias tuberosa–Butterfly Flower
Aster novae-angliae–New England Aster
Boltonia asteroides–Boltonia
Dalea purpurea–Purple Prairie Clover
Echinacea angustifolia–Purple Coneflower
Eupatorium maculatum–Joe-Pye Weed
Gentiana andrewsii–Bottle Gentian
Geum triflorum–Prairie Smoke
Helianthus maximiliani–Maximilian Sunflower
Liatris pychnostachya–Prairie Blazing Star
Lobelia cardinalis–Cardinal Flower
Lobelia siphilitica–Great Blue Lobelia
Monarda fistulosa–Wild Bergamot
Rudbeckia hirta–Black-eyed Susan
Rudbeckia laciniata–Wild Goldenglow
Thalictrum dasycarpum–Tall Meadow Rue
Uvularia grandiflora–Large-flowered Bellwort
Verbena hastata–Blue Vervain
Zizia aurea–Golden Alexander
Graminoides (Grasses and grass-like plants)
Acorus calumus–Sweet Flag
Andropogon gerardii–Big Bluestem
Bouteloua curtipendula–Side Oats Grama
Bouteloua gracilis–Blue Grama
Bromus kalmii–Kalm’s Brome
Calamagrostis canadensis–Bluejoint Grass
Carex bebbii–Bebb’s Sedge
Carex comosa–Bottlebrush Sedge
Carex lacustris–Lake Sedge
Carex pensylvanica–Pennsylvania Sedge
Carex scoparia–Pointed Broom Sedge
Carex sprengelii–Sprengel’s Sedge
Carex stricta–Tussock Sedge
Carex vulpinoidea–Fox Sedge
Eleocharis palustris–Spike Rush
Elymus hystrix–Bottlebrush Grass
Glyceria canadensis–Rattlesnake Manna Grass
Glyceria grandis–Tall Manna Grass
Hierochloe odorata–Sweet Grass
Juncus effusus–Soft Rush
Juncus tenuis–Path Rush
Koeleria macrantha–June Grass
Panicum virgatum–Switchgrass
Schizachyrium scoparium–Little Bluestem
Scirpus atrovirens–Green Bulrush
Scirpus cyperinus–Wool Grass
Scirpus validus–Softstem Bulrush
Sorghastrum nutans–Indian Grass
Spartina pectinata–Cord Grass
Shrubs and Small Trees
Amelanchier laevis–Serviceberry
Aronia melanocarpa–Black Chokeberry
Cornus alternifolia–Pagoda Dogwood
Cornus racemosa–Gray Dogwood
Cornus sericea (stolonifera)–Red-osier Dogwood
Corylus americana–American Hazel
Diervilla lonicera–Bush Honeysuckle
Prunus virginiana–Chokecherry
Sambucus pubens–Red Berried Elderberry
Symphoricarpos albus–Snowberry
Viburnum atropurpurea–Downy Arrowwood
Viburnum lentago–Nannyberry
Viburnum trilobum–Highbush Cranberry
JUNE’S PLANT OF THE MONTH:
PEONIES
Peonies are a common fixture in Wisconsin gardens during the month of June. Their showy and fragrant flowers are found in most perennial gardens. The shrub-like plants often act as a hedge, lining driveways and fencerows. Few perennials could be easier to grow or more trouble free. The blooms make for a great, long-stemmed and long-lasting cut flower.
The two most common peonies are the herbaceous peonies (Paeonia lactiflora), that die back to the ground each winter, and the tree peonies (P. suffruticosa), which are woody shrubs. Both are native to China. Most herbaceous peonies grow to about 3’ tall and more wide, especially as the clump matures. Flowers are either single or double and are available in shades of pink, red, purple, white, apricot and even yellow. There are many patterned hybrids and most flowers have a yellow center. The fragrance is intoxicating. Plants generally need some sort of support. Heavy rains are the peony flower’s greatest enemy. Water-soaked blooms flatten plants to the ground unless supported by a ‘peony cage’, found at nearly all garden centers and home improvement stores. Cages need to be placed around the plants before the foliage becomes to tall in the springtime. The cages hold the plants upright during bad weather and, therefore, lengthen the bloom time. Some people are put off by the myth that peony buds bring ants inside the home. This is simply not true. The ants are only attracted to the sweet sap that envelopes the forming flower buds. After blooming, plants should be deadheaded and will seem like a shrub for the rest of the growing season, adding height and texture to the perennial garden. Herbaceous peonies (like iris) are best divided and planted in the fall, rather than in the spring. Once brown, all foliage should be removed in the fall and destroyed to avoid certain fungal problems. Though usually harmless to the plants, peony leaf spot can be unsightly and can weaken plants if bad enough.
Tree peonies, on the other hand, are deciduous shrubs. They lose their leaves in the fall, but plants continue to grow on old woody growth. Plants tend to bloom slightly earlier in the spring than herbaceous types and the blooms are usually larger, frillier, more fragile and a bit less fragrant. Plants are less hardy in Wisconsin (though fully hardy here in Madison) and do best where a bit protected. As with all spring blooming shrubs, it’s very important to do any pruning just after blooming has finished. Pruning in the fall will destroy the next season’s flower buds. As with herbaceous peonies, colors range through the pink/red/white/purple shades, though yellows are also available.
AROUND TOWN:
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter.
***Due to the ongoing Coronavirus pandemic, nearly all in person garden/plant related public events in the Madison area continue to be cancelled or postponed until further notice.***
2021 Summer Concert Series at Olbrich Gardens
Enjoy the evening with a concert on the Great Lawn of Olbrich’s outdoor gardens. Please visit www.olbrich.org/events/
Olbrich Concerts in the Gardens 2021 Schedule:
(All concerts are on Tuesdays at 7 p.m.)
June 15
Kat and the Hurricane—Genre- and gender-bending synth rock
June 22
Johannes Wallmann Quartet—Jazz
June 29
Rare Element—instrumental funk music
July 6
Tony Castañeda Latin Jazz Band—Latin Jazz
July 13
The Blue Olives
July 20
The German Art Students—Post-punk, Mad magazine-esque music
July 27
Kinfolk-Soul—Neo-soul, and rhythm and blues
August 3
The Lower 5th—”Midwestern Soul”
August 13
Fresco Opera-Opera Made Fresh. Live opera performances in different locations throughout the Gardens. Stand and stroll concert viewing.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
Dane County Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, April 10 thru TBD, 7:00-12:00
Temporarily at the Alliant Energy Center
For details visit www.dcfm.org
JUNE IN THE GARDEN-–A checklist of things to do this month.
___By early June, finish planting all annuals and vegetables.
___By early June, move all houseplants out that spend the summer outdoors.
___In early June give all beds a thorough weeding for easier follow-up.
___June is a great month to plant perennials, trees and shrubs.
___Prune evergreens.
___Prune hard any spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, quince, etc.
___Mulch beds to conserve moisture and keep down weeds.
___Begin deadheading spent blooms as needed.
___Remove yellowed foliage of spring tulips, daffodils, etc.
___Begin staking and supporting tall plants as needed.
___Begin your fertilizing regimen. Regular fertilizing makes for healthy plants.
___Order spring bulbs from catalogs while your memory is still fresh.
___Keep and eye on the weather. Water as needed.
___Watch for pests and control as needed or desired.
___Begin seeding cole crops for fall harvest. Also sow pansies and wallflowers.
___Pinch hardy mums until July 4 for bushier less floppy plants.
___Visit Klein’s—Watch for end of season savings on annuals and perennials.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333
For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998
For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
IN JUNE:
—The back greenhouses are nearly empty of product. We’ve had another successful season. This is the time to plan for next spring–while our memories are still fresh: How can we improve in 2022? Which plants did we run out of too early? How was staffing?
—Watering is a nonstop endeavor. On hot, windy days, we no sooner finish the first round, when we have to start all over again. Some plants in our retail areas may need watering 3 or 4 times in a single day! You wouldn’t do this at home, but customers don’t like to see wilted plants. It’s not harmful for us to let them wilt a bit, but it makes for bad presentation.
—We continue to plant some annuals, hanging baskets and containers for summer sales.
—Fall mums and asters are stepped up into larger tubs and containers for fall sales.
—We begin prepping some of the back greenhouses for the arrival of poinsettia plugs in just a few weeks.
—Our employees breathe a sigh of relief and spend some much needed downtime with family and friends.
PERMANENT FEATURES–
KLEIN’S MONTHLY NEWSLETTER
Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page. We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.
THE MAD GARDENER–“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.
We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
TO WRITE A REVIEW OF KLEIN’S, PLEASE LINK TO
FACEBOOK
Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.
TWITTER
Join Klein’s on Twitter where we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.
SENIOR CITIZEN DISCOUNT
We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.
RECYCLING POTS & TRAYS
Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/
DELIVERY INFO
Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.
Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.
A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.
We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.
Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.
There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.
Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.
We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.
Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.
During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.
It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.
DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.
Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661
Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com
Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com
Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com
Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com
RELATED RESOURCES AND WEB SITES
University of Wisconsin Extension
1 Fen Oak Ct. #138
Madison, WI 53718
608/224-3700
Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic
Dept. of Plant Pathology
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
Insect Diagnostic Lab
240 Russell Labs
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab
8452 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-4364
American Horticultural Society
Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)
Invasive Species
Community Groundworks
3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4
Madison, WI 53704
608/240-0409
Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)
Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program
Department of Horticulture
1575 Linden Drive
University of Wisconsin – Madison
Madison, WI 53706
608/265-4504
The Wisconsin Gardener
Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
608/262-8406
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/246-4550
Rotary Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr.
Janesville, WI 53545
608/752-3885
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888
University of Wisconsin-West Madison
Agricultural Research Center
8502 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-2257
PLANTS POISONOUS TO CHILDREN:
Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.
•Bird of paradise
•Bull nettle
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Crocus
•Daffodil
•Deadly nightshade
•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
•Foxglove
•Glory lily
•Hemlock
•Holly berry
•Indian tobacco
•Iris
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Lily of the valley
•Marijuana
•Mescal bean
•Mexicantes
•Mistletoe
•Morning glory
•Mountain laurel
•Night-blooming jasmine
•Nutmeg
•Oleander
•Philodendron
•Poison ivy
•Poison sumac
•Pokeweed
•Poppy
•Potato
•Privet
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Water hemlock
•Wisteria
PLANTS POISONOUS TO PETS:
Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/
•Aconite
•Apple
•Arrowgrasses
•Autumn Crocus
•Azaleas
•Baneberry
•Bird-of-Paradise
•Black locust
•Bloodroot
•Box
•Buckeye
•Buttercup
•Caladium
•Carolina jessamine
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Chockcherries
•Christmas berry
•Christmas Rose
•Common privet
•Corn cockle
•Cowbane
•Cow cockle
•Cowsliprb
•Daffodil
•Daphne
•Day lily
•Delphinium (Larkspur)
•Dumbcane
•Dutchman’s breeches
•Easter lily
•Elderberry
•Elephant’s ear
•English Ivy
•European Bittersweet
•Field peppergrass
•Foxglove
•Holly
•Horsechestnut
•Horse nettle
•Hyacinth
•Iris
•Jack-in-the-pulpit
•Jerusalem Cherry
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Laurels
•Lily of the valley
•Lupines
•Mayapple
•Milk vetch
•Mistletoe
•Monkshood
•Morning glory
•Mustards
•Narcissus
•Nicotiana
•Nightshade
•Oaks
•Oleander
•Philodendrons
•Pokeweed
•Poinsettia
•Poison hemlock
•Potato
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Rosary pea
•Sago palm
•Skunk cabbage
•Smartweeds
•Snow-on-the-mountain
•Sorghum
•Star of Bethlehem
•Wild black cherry
•Wild radish
•Wisteria
•Yellow jessamine
•Yew