October 2021 Newsletter

A single visit to Klein’s in autumn is sure to inspire creativity when decorating your home both inside and out. We have it all and under one roof . . . from our homegrown mums, pansies, kales and pre-planted mixed fall containers to fresh floral arrangements for Halloween and Thanksgiving celebrating, to an amazing assortment of fresh pumpkins, gourds, dried grasses, hay bales, corn shucks and more.

We have all of your favorites–tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums–and a few not-so-well known treasures for your garden. Mid- to late October is the best time to plant your spring bulbs (planting too can early promote premature leaf growth) and nothing could be more uplifting after a long winter than crocus, snowdrops and winter aconite blossoms peeking through the snow come spring. Allow the Klein’s staff to share planting tips and ideas to keep those pesky squirrels from digging up those newly planted bulbs. And for indoor blooms, don’t forget a few hyacinths, paperwhites and amaryllis (arriving mid-month) for indoor forcing. We carry a lovely assortment of forcing glasses, vases and decorative pottery. Forced bulbs make for a n inexpensive and treasured holiday gift. Any bulb questions? Don’t forget our Mad Gardener @ madgardener@kleinsfloral.com!

Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.

Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

You can contact Klein’s in-house indoor plant experts by emailing to Houseplant Help for sound information and advice regarding indoor tropicals, succulents, blooming plants and so much more.

For many years, customers’ indoor plant questions have been directed to Klein’s Mad Gardener (see below). Now you have the opportunity to contact our indoor plant experts directly. We’ve posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.

We reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

Monday thru Friday : 9:00-6:00

Saturday: 9:00-5:00

Sunday: 10:00-4:00

Throughout October…save 75% on all remaining perennials and shrubs. Check out our selection of spring bulbs. Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums and much more have arrived for fall planting. For Halloween and Thanksgiving decorating we carry pumpkins, gourds, fall leaves, branches, grasses, dried flowers, cattails, hay bales, etc. for fall decor. Shop early for best selection.

October 11—Indigenous Peoples’ Day (Columbus Day)

October 16 and 17—Art Works Art Show @ Klein’s. Find unique one-of-a-kind items for gifts or for yourself. Ceramics, Paintings, Fiber, Jewelry, Mixed Media, Photography, Sculpture, Wood and more! For more info visit https://artworkswisconsin.com

October 16–National Bosses’ Day

October 16–Sweetest Day

October 20–Full Moon

October 24–Mother-in-Law’s Day

October 31—Halloween

November 2—Día de los Muertos

October 16 is National Boss’s Day and though it may seem to be just another “Hallmark Holiday”, it has a bit more. Though National Boss’s Day is Saturday, Oct. 16, the entire week before is Boss’s Week and it’s appropriate to show your appreciation anytime during the week. Here’s a bit about National Boss’s Day from www.thebossday.com.

Bosses are the people responsible for giving us fortitude and making our life easier, despite the huge load of work. It happens that although we cherish a cordial approbation for them, but lack the opportunity to display it. This is what led to the naming of a National Boss’s Day, which provides employees a chance of exhibiting their appreciation towards their bosses. The day marked for the celebration is 16th of October every year. Now-a-days, Boss’s Day serves as an opportunity of improving the employee-senior relationship and appreciating the boss for handling the pressure he has to face day in and day out, to run an organization effectively.

The entire credit of creating awareness among all the employees for a day dedicated to their boss goes to Patricia Bays Haroski. It was her efforts for having a day dedicated to bosses that led to the creation of National Boss’s Day, on October 16. She was an employee at State Farm Insurance Company in Deerfield, Ill and worked under her father. In 1958, she registered the holiday with the Chamber of Commerce of the United States, in respect of her boss-father.

Patricia Bays Haroski, instead of working under her own father, was considerate enough to scrutinize the adversity and hurdles that her boss-father had to go through to run the company. She thought 16th October, the birthday of Patricia Bays Haroski’s father, as the perfect day for the employees to officially acknowledge and honor their Bosses and superiors countrywide. Ms. Haroski’s purpose was to authorize a day to authenticate thankfulness for her boss as well as other bosses. She thought of it as a day dedicated to the bosses, who make the workplace much more congenial for the workers.

It was four years later that the initiative taken by Patricia Bays Haroski’s was honored by the Governor of Illinois, Otto Kerner. He welcomed the proposal of observing Boss’s Day and officially declared 16th October as National Boss’s Day, in 1962. Following that day, the idea became popular across the countries very soon and many countries started to celebrate this day with full gusto. Employees across the world gladly accepted the concept of dedicating a day to their bosses and conveying their respect through its celebration.

Flowers are the best communicators and can express your feelings better than words. They have distinct powers to exhilarate emotions by bringing your true feelings to the forefront. In effect, flowers are omnipresent on all occasions and celebrations and form an integral part of happiness. The vibrant colors, the freshness of their look and the aromatic effect, which they create, articulate your feelings just in the manner you feel for the person, whom you are presenting them with. Thus, they have dominated at all junctures of joyful bliss.

When you are in any confusion, flowers are the lender of the last resort. They are just the perfect gift you can choose, when in confusion. Just as birthdays, anniversaries and holistic occasions cannot go without the existence of flowers, it is very hard to let go an occasion such as Boss’s Day as well. It may be very difficult to choose a gift for your boss as you may be completely clueless about his liking, but flowers are a hit always. Flowers are the best gift you can opt for, to give your boss.

You have a wide range of flowers, which you can choose from to give your boss. There is an endless list of flowers such as roses, carnations, tulips, orchids, gerberas, lilies, iris, etc. that can be presented on such an occasion. Even the floral arrangement can be of various styles right from a bunch to bouquets of various impressive styles. You can even choose between a singular flower arrangement and a mixed flower arrangement. Even if you do not know what each flower stands for, the colorful sight of the flowers would convey the respect and the admiration you feel for your boss.

If you are arranging a party for him or her at your office or even at an outside place, flowers are the best items to decorate the party place with. The invigorating beauty of the flowers is sure to make your boss have an enthralling experience. Take keen notice that you also chip in to write a message for your boss on each of the bouquet presented to him. While the flowers will wilt away with time, this small act of love and gratitude will be imprinted on the heart of your boss for years to come. So, just go ahead and treat your boss with exotic flowers to make the day a little more special.

Hi Caitlin,

Trees and shrubs can be planted either spring or fall in southern Wisconsin. Spring is always best for planting, however. Were we to get an early or harsh winter, the maple may not have time to root out sufficiently before the soil freezes. Madison is on the northern fringe of Japanese maples’ hardiness to begin with as most Japanese maples are listed as hardy to Zone 5.

Another downside of planting in the fall will be selection. You probably won’t find many choices. Most retailers are beginning to prepare for winter and allowing their inventories to run out. On the upside, if you find something you like, you’ll probably find it on sale…keeping in mind that any left over product is probably not the highest quality product.

When planting Japanese maples in the Madison area, it’s important to do some research. Though nearly all Japanese maples are listed hardy to Zone 5, very few actually thrive in our climate and will perish during exceptionally cold winters. During the year of the polar vortex about 5 years ago, a large percentage of the Japanese maples in the Madison area took a really hard hit. If you live closer to downtown or on the isthmus (and urban warming), you’re in a microclimate where Japanese maples can thrive. Away from downtown or out in the countryside, chances drop considerably. Bloodgood is one of the best and hardiest Japanese maple varieties for our area. Another option is Korean maple. They are much hardier but tend to be a bit larger.

Thanks for your question,

This culinary staple is rarely propagated from seeds. Instead a few aromatic bulbs of garlic are saved from the harvest and replanted year after year.

Garlic plants must be vernalized in order for their bulbs to develop. Plant garlic in the fall, usually between September 15 and November 30, after the first light frost of the year. Mid-October is the appropriate time in the Madison area. Keep bulbs intact until right before planting. Break bulbs into individual cloves and plant the largest, healthiest looking cloves with the basal plate – the point where the cloves attached to the bulb – down and the pointed shoot-end up, 6-8” apart. Cover with 2” of soil and a 6” layer of mulch. Do not remove mulch in the spring; it helps control weeds, preserve moisture and provides nutrients as it decomposes.

Cloves may begin to sprout through the mulch in 4-8 weeks, depending on the variety and the weather conditions in your region. Do not be concerned. The plants may suffer some frost or a light freeze and still survive the weather.

When garlic shoots begin to emerge in early spring, ensure even soil moisture by supplying 1” of water per week throughout the growing season. Garlic does not compete well with weeds so keep weeds under control early to ensure a bountiful harvest. Scapes are the curly flower stems that often form as the garlic matures. Cut or break them off after they are 10 inches long and reserve them for eating.

Garlic can suffer damage from nematodes, botrytis rot, and white rot. However, the biggest threat to garlic is weeds. Keep your garlic bed clean and make sure to plant garlic in well-fertilized, loose soil.

Harvest after three or four leaves have died back and there are still five or six green leaves remaining on the plant – sometime in June or July depending on the year and your climate. Do not wait too long or the bulbs will begin to separate in the ground. Loosen the soil with a shovel or pitchfork and then dig the garlic carefully. Do not pull the stalk or it will separate from the bulb. Gently brush most of the dirt off. Tie plants in a bundle of 6-8 plants and hang in a shaded, dry, well-ventilated shed or garage. Leave plants hanging for 4-6 weeks so that bulbs can cure.

After thoroughly drying, trim off the roots and cut the stalks off about 1 ½” from the bulb. Store in net bags. For optimum storage, hang in an area with 45-55 percent humidity and a temperature of 50-70 degrees F.

Hold back your nicest bulbs for replanting.

Garlic is vegetatively propagated rather than grown from seeds. To regrow garlic, keep bulbs intact until no more than 1-2 days before replanting, then simply pull apart garlic bulbs and plant individual cloves as described above. Some garlic varieties will produce seeds if scapes are not removed from the plants, but these seeds will not be true to type.

Source: www.seedsavers.org

Chesnok Red–(aka Shvelisi) Originates from the village of Shvelisi, Republic of Georgia. Beautiful purple striped paper with red cloves, easy to peel. Good lingering taste, retains flavor well when cooked. Rated as one of the very best for baking or roasting. Hardneck, 8-10 cloves per bulb.

Early Italian–All purpose, mild-flavored garlic. Extra large heads and large cloves make wonderful braids. Does well in the heat and produces early. Excellent storage qualities. Softneck, 8-12 cloves per bulb.

German Extra Hardy–Vigorous grower with long roots that enable it to overwinter without heaving out of the ground. Outside skin is ivory-white, but the clove skin is dark red. Strong raw flavor, high sugar content, one of the very best for roasting. Hardneck, 4-7 cloves per bulb.

Inchelium Red–Found growing on the Colville Indian Reservation in Inchelium, Washington. Light purple blotching on very large bulbs. Compound bulbs have large outer cloves as well as medium cloves in the center of the bulb. Rated the best tasting garlic by the Rodale Institute in 1990. Softneck, 12-16 cloves per bulb.

Korean Red–Asiatic hardneck variety. Attractive bulbs with brown to auburn colored clove skins. Not a variety to be overlooked, Korean Red is comparable in flavor to its Purple Stripe cousins, but with longer storage quality. When planted in the fall the bulbils are capable of producing mini garlic bulbs and garlic scallions in spring. 7-10 cloves per bulb.

Metechi–Mid-season, Purple Stripe type. A powerful hardneck, Metechi delivers robust garlic flavor along with a sharp bite. Raw, it’s fiery hot, finishing with a lasting spice. Cooking will tone down the heat, while still holding that big garlic taste. This variety has thick, white-wrapped bulbs that hold 4-6 bulky cloves clothed in blushed skin with purple accents. Exceptionally cold-hardy plants have broad, upright leaves.

Music–Italian variety brought to Canada by Al Music in the 1980s from his homeland. Bright white bulbs with a hint of pink and brown on clove skins. Large cloves are easy to peel. Rich, sweet, and caramelly when roasted. Delicious and spicy raw flavor. Hardneck, 4-10 cloves per bulb.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.

We have been growing and selling exceptional quality garlic for over a decade. We provide exceptional quality seed garlic. There is a lot of garlic on the market, but not all of it is what you should invest in as your seed garlic that will be used for years to come.

Good seed garlic is an investment, and we know and understand that. We continually inspect our garlic in the field, during curing, and post-harvest, so it gets to our customers in good shape and ready to grow or eat. Our garlic seed is produced to provide you with garlic that is intended to grow in your garden or field, so you can have a successful garlic crop.

All our garlic is grown organically with no GMO’s, is non-irradiated, and grown in nutrient dense soil to produce high-quality garlic bulbs. Grown on idyllic small organic family farms, we take pride in selling the highest quality garlic seeds to gardeners and farmers who have successfully grown garlic.

Although some seed companies source their garlic from other countries (which does not grow well in the US), we take pride in growing and selling heirloom garlic grown in the US! Wisconsin produces some of the best garlic in the nation! We work hard for our customers, so they can know the sweetness in the success of growing garlic.

Visit our website @ keeneorganics.com

It’s Labor Day weekend so it’s time to prep many my plants for the trip indoors later in the month. Hibiscus are among my favorite plants to save from year to year. That said, they also require the greatest prep for the move inside.

Hibiscus are best overwintered near a very bright window–south or west are best. Prune the plant(s), pretty hard and to shape before bringing it inside. Hibiscus are best pruned in the fall here in the north, rather than in the springtime. Pruning in the spring can delay blooming by up to a month or more. Hard pruning can be emotionally traumatic to do when your plant is in full bloom, but it pays off greatly in the long haul. Hibiscus will probably lose most, if not all of its leaves once brought indoors and while it acclimates to its new environment and lower light levels. This is completely normal and it will send out new shoots and leaves as time passes and especially as the days lengthen in late winter.

Hibiscus like to be kept moist, so water throughly once dry to the touch. Don’t allow it to stand in water, but don’t allow it to get too bone dry too often either.

Keep an eye out for pests. I recommend applying a systemic pesticide every 5 weeks through the winter months. Hibiscus are especially prone to aphids and whiteflies. Whiteflies can be especially hard to control once established. Removing all foliage can actually be beneficial in controlling whiteflies as they reside under the leaves.

There’s no need to fertilize during the dead of winter. Begin fertilizing again only once the days lengthen in late February.

My spring bulb order from John Scheeper’s arrived today and among them, as always, are 150 tulip bulbs for my front yard tulip display (next spring the intense, fuchsia-purple Barcelone variety). Years back I learned that for a consistently beautiful spring display, I needed to replant fresh tulips every fall in that bed.

Most tulips are at their best the first spring after planting. In subsequent springs, although the foliage may return, flowering is often sporadic at best.

To ensure a lavish display every year, many gardeners like me treat tulips as annuals: We dig up and discard the bulbs after the tulips bloom and then replant fresh bulbs in the fall. The effort and expense is repaid many times over by a spring show that no other plant can match.

Source: Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com

You buy tulip bulbs, plant them in the fall and enjoy a great display in the spring. But the following spring, all you get is a smattering of flowers and maybe a bunch of leaves. “What happened?” you ask yourself. “Aren’t tulips supposed to come back? My grandmother has tulips that have bloomed every spring for as long as she can remember. Did I do something wrong?”

More than likely, you are not to blame. It’s in the nature of tulips. Most are not strong perennializers in the landscape. They don’t flower well the second year after planting.

Why don’t tulips come back? The tulip bulbs you buy and plant in the fall have been groomed to bloom. They were raised in sandy Dutch soil and fertilized in just the right measure. When they bloomed in the spring, the flowers were cut off soon after they opened to keep them from drawing too much energy from the bulbs. The leaves were allowed to continue to grow for another six weeks in the famously cool Dutch weather. After going dormant in early summer, the bulbs were dug and stored in a climate-controlled warehouse to mimic a long, hot, bone-dry summer in the mountains of Central Asia, which is where most tulips are native.

All of this TLC yields a high percentage of flowering-size bulbs, including many topsize bulbs, which measure 12 centimeters in circumference or larger. A topsize bulb can’t get bigger, but it will get smaller, typically by splitting into two or more smaller bulbs. Under less-than-perfect garden conditions, when the bulbs split into smaller bulbs, those smaller bulbs may take years to grow to flowering size. Some may also rot due to heavy soil or excess moisture. And so your breathtaking tulip display dwindles to little or nothing.

Despite the obstacles, there are some tulips that are willing (but not guaranteed) to bloom well for more than one year. The best known are the Darwin Hybrids, but other types, such as the Fosterianas, and many of the wild, or species, tulips also have perennial tendencies. They won’t keep going indefinitely, but it’s possible to get two or three reasonably good displays from them before you feel the need to replant.

One of the very last tasks of the gardening season is the planting of spring bulbs. Every year I add a few here and there throughout the yard. Given nice weather (and the fact we’ll be spending the next 5 months indoors), I find bulb planting a relaxing and rewarding chore.

After many years of gardening (and thousands of bulbs), I’ve learned there are easy ways to plants bulbs and there are hard ways to plant bulbs. For example, planting bulbs when the soil is dry and compacted is a hard way to plant bulbs. Digging individual holes with a hand trowel amongst mature perennial roots is another hard way to plant bulbs. And planting bulbs under a mature maple tree or near a mature spruce . . . forget it!! You’ll always hit roots!!

If it hasn’t rained, thoroughly water the area where you’re planning on planting bulbs! This is one of our biggest complaints at Klein’s. Customers oftentimes purchase traditional bulb diggers (whether handheld or the long-handled foot-type) and they say they just don’t work! This is nearly always true if there are roots or rocks beneath the surface. But in moist, tilled beds, they work perfectly fine. I’ve found the type where the handle pops open to release the soil plug back into the hole works the best. It can sometimes be difficult to pry the soil out of the traditional kind where the tube doesn’t pop open to release the soil. When planting bulbs with a bulb planter, gardening gloves are a must to prevent blisters and a soft kneeling pad is useful. Bulb planters are tedious if you have a lot of bulbs to plant and aren’t useful for a large area unless you till the area ahead of time.

For larger areas, the most effective way to plant bulbs is to remove the soil completely to 6” deep, lay out the bulbs and replace the soil. I usually remove the soil on to a tarp lying next to the area I’m planting to make the task and clean up a bit easier. With this method it’s also easier to layer and mix bulbs of different types for a staggered blooming period.

Unlike the bigger tulip and daffodil bulbs, planting tiny bulbs like scilla, chionodoxa, pushkinia, species crocus and snowdrops, etc., is a breeze. I simply scatter the small bulbs over the soil surface to give a random and natural, rather than a planned, effect. Then I take a narrow trowel, jab it a few inches into the soil and pull back to create a slit into which I drop the bulb. I try to make sure the growing tip is pointing upward, but bulbs (especially these small ones) have a tendency to right themselves when planted incorrectly. Then with the heal of my hand, I push the slit closed and move on. Hundreds of bulbs can be planted in very short order. A kneeling pad is a necessity when planting hundreds of bulbs. This method works great when planting bulbs in the lawn. The sod is simply pressed back into place.

Until a few years ago I was a skeptic of the auger-type bulb planters for power drills–but no more! It’s important to use a corded drill rather than the cordless type. I’ve found my cordless drill a little weak for deeper holes and areas with a lot of roots. Having said that, a corded drill works perfectly in established perennial beds where roots would otherwise be a problem. The drill bit cuts through those roots with ease! (Tree roots are another story). I first purchased a two foot long version. Because the auger is long I can stand while drilling the holes. I then go back and drop the bulbs (growing tip up) into the holes. I go back again and refill each hole. I’ve found I can plant hundreds of bulbs in short order with the drill bit. The wider auger also allows me to plant larger allium bulbs easily. More recently I purchased a smaller auger for my densely planted tulip bed and I love it!

And an added note: I normally wait until the first part of November to plant my bulbs into the garden. First off, they won’t prematurely sprout if the weather remains warm through the fall. They’ll have plenty of time to root into the still unfrozen soil, but didn’t have a chance to send up shoots. Doing so reduces flower power the following spring (except for a few like grape hyacinths which always send up greenery in the fall).

In addition, I’ve generally put the entire garden to bed by the first part of November. Perennials have been cut back and shrubs have lost their leaves. With nothing in the way, bulb planting is made easy.

KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!

The crisp temperatures and longer nights certainly signify we’re in the peak of the fall season and few fruits or vegetables exemplify autumn better than apples. Local reports say that 2021 has produced a bumper apple crop. After a slow start, the warm summer temps more than made up for lost time. Dry weather has made for smaller apples in some orchards. But in those orchards that irrigated, the crops are huge and the quality outstanding. Following are a few of Klein’s very favorite tried-and-true apple dishes.

APPLE SPICE HUMMUS DIP–A delightfully sweet twist on a classic. Serve with apple slices, carrots, wheat crackers or the traditional pita wedges. From the pages of Better Homes & Gardens magazine from September 2006.

2 x 15 oz. cans garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

1 sweet apple, peeled and chopped

1/3 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup creamy peanut butter

2-3 TBS. water

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. apple pie spice

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

In a food processor, place half of the beans, apple, lemon juice, peanut butter, water, salt, spice and cayenne. Process until smooth and transfer to a bowl. Repeat. Mix well, cover and chill. Makes 3 cups.

APPLE RAISIN SLAW–A simple salad creating a unique and refreshing combination of flavors. From Cooking Light magazine.

1/2 cup sour cream

3 TBS. mayonnaise

1 1/2 TBS. balsamic vinegar

1 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. ground pepper

1/4 tsp. salt

2 cups chopped apple

1 cup golden raisins

1 x 16 oz. package cabbage/carrot slaw (such as Dole)

Whisk together the sour cream, mayo, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the apple, raisins and slaw and toss. Serves 8.

APPLE CRANBERRY SAUCE–This has become our favorite cranberry sauce for serving at the holidays. The combination with apples sweetens the sauce for those who aren’t huge cranberry fans. Kids love it!! This recipe is a great way to introduce them to cranberries. This dish came to us in the mid-1990’s from the WISC-TV website.

4 cups apples, peeled and sliced

3/4 cup water

1/2 cup sugar

1 TBS. lemon juice

1/2 lb. fresh cranberries

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Reduce the heat and simmer about 30 minutes until the apples are tender and the berries have popped. Serves 8.

BAKED APPLESAUCE–The house smells phenomenal while preparing this recipe. The result is a chunky and rich sauce–SO much better than store-bought and SO easy!

5 TBS. water

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

2 TBS. lemon juice

1 tsp. cinnamon

4 lbs. apples, peeled, cored and halved

Preheat the oven to 375º. Combine all ingredients together in a large bowl then place in a large Dutch oven (5 qt.). Cover and bake, 1 hour and 15 minutes, stirring after 45 minutes. Yields 5-6 cups.

AUNT MATHILDA’S GERMAN APPLESAUCE MEATLOAF–Of the dozens upon dozens of meatloaf recipes we’ve collected over the years, this remains among our favorites. The applesauce adds moisture and a delightful sweetness. Another kid favorite!!! We found this recipe nearly 30 years ago in the Wisconsin State Journal.

1 1/2 lbs. ground beef

1/2 lb. ground pork

1/2 cup finely dice onion

1 cup applesauce

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 cup bread crumbs

3 TBS. ketchup

2 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. pepper

Preheat the oven to 350º. Lightly oil a 9x5x3” loaf pan. Using your hands, combine all ingredients together in a large bowl. Place the mixture in the prepared pan. Bake

1 3/4-2 hours. Allow to cool 10-15 minutes before removing the loaf from the pan and slicing. Serves 6-8.

CURRIED APPLE PORK STEW–A hearty and belly-warming way to use up a few of those extra veggies from your CSA box. Quick and simple. From Better Homes & Gardens.

4 lbs. pork shoulder, cut into 1” cubes

8 apples

2 TBS. oil

2 large onions, cut into wedges

4 tsp. curry powder

2 x 14.5 oz. cans chicken broth

1 1/3 cups apple cider or apple juice

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

1 1/2 lbs. carrots, halved and cut into 2” lengths (or baby carrots)

4 stalks celery, sliced

4 cups peeled and cubed butternut squash

Sour cream & orange zest for serving (optional)

Peel, core and chop 4 of the apples and set aside. In batches, brown the pork in oil in a large Dutch oven or stew pot over medium high heat. Return all of the browned meat back to the pot and add the chopped apples, onion and curry powder. Cook and stir for a few minutes. Add the broth, cider, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the carrots, celery and return to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Cut the rest of the apples into 1/4” thick wedges. Add the apples and squash to the pot. Cover and cook until all is tender, about 15 minutes more. Serve in bowls with sour cream and orange zest. Serves 10-12. Serve with a hearty bread.

The leaves are falling. The hot, humid days of summer have given way to crisp, cool, throw-an-extra-blanket-on-the-bed nights.

And your ragweed allergy has you running for the protection of your well-sealed home and slamming your windows shut. If you feel like your allergies are worse, or lingering longer than normal this year, it’s because they are. Climate change, and the resulting higher temperatures and increasing carbon dioxide, allow pollen-producing plants to live longer and to produce more potent pollen. And this year, the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology announced that the season will be extended, rather than ending in September as it normally does.

Of course, that doesn’t mean you have to suffer weeks longer. The foods you eat (and don’t eat) can help stifle your sniffling, particularly seasonal foods that are available now. So grab your reusable shopping bags and hit the market for these nine fresh finds.

Broccoli–This precious piece of produce serves two purposes in annihilating your allergy symptoms: It’s high in allergy-relieving vitamin C and it’s a member of the crucifer family, plants that have been shown to clear out blocked-up sinuses. Researchers have found about 500 milligrams (mg) of vitamin C a day can ease allergy symptoms, and just 1 cup of raw broccoli packs about 80 mg. For another fall-flavored vitamin C boost, try cabbage or cauliflower, two other, related cruciferous vegetables. Both pack 56 mg of vitamin C per cooked cup.

Kale–Don’t just admire kale as a garnish. Eat it! This superfood packs a one-two punch against allergies. Like broccoli, it’s a member of the crucifer family, but it’s also rich in the carotenoid department, packing a form of vitamin A thought to improve allergy symptoms. A number of studies have shown that people with low vitamin A stores are more likely to have asthma and allergy problems.

Collard Greens–Hijacked by hay fever? Put collard greens on the menu. Their phytochemical content, mainly carotenoids, eases allergy issues. The darker the leaves, the higher the carotenoid content. They do require some patience to cook, however. Tough, fibrous veggies like collards need to cook anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour in order for your body to absorb their nutrients easily. Some vitamins will leach out into your cooking water, or “pot likker,” as Southerners call it. Use that water in soups or stews, or use it to cook some rice to serve with your leafy greens in order to maximize the nutrients your body absorbs.

Onions & Garlic–Onions and garlic are packed with quercetin, another secret weapon that helps fight allergies by acting like an antihistamine. Quercetin also acts like vitamin C and quells inflammation in your system, which helps stem the side effects associated with allergic inflammation, such as stuffy noses. However, quercetin isn’t absorbed very easily from food. So, although eating lots of onions and garlic may ward off some symptoms, you might consider a 400 to 500 mg supplement if you have severe fall allergies.

Pumpkins–Like broccoli and leafy greens, pumpkins are rich in allergy-fighting carotenoids, the form of vitamin A that you need to stockpile in order to better ward off allergies. If your only dietary experience with pumpkin has been in breads or pies, you may not know how versatile it can be.

Carrots–Another carotenoid powerhouse, carrots contain lots of healthy beta-carotene to help ward off your ragweed misery. You’ll get more of the valuable vitamin if you lightly steam your carrots, rather than eating them raw, or sauté them with a healthy fat, such as coconut oil or ghee, a form of clarified butter.

Celery–Celery is full of vitamin C and anti-inflammatory compounds, making it a great tool in fighting not just allergies, but also high blood pressure and chronic pain. It’s one vegetable that you can eat raw or cooked without losing access to its nutrients. And don’t ignore the leaves; chop those up for use in soups and stews to get their vitamin C content, as well.

Stinging Nettle–Even though it’s not necessarily a food, or a fall-specific herb, you can’t discuss natural allergy remedies without hailing stinging nettle. It helps stifle the inflammation that occurs when you’re experiencing allergy symptoms. Stinging nettle contains histamine, the chemical your body produces during an allergic reaction, so it helps you acquire tolerance. Look for 500 mg freeze-dried nettle capsules in your natural health store, and take three times a day. That’s the best form for allergy relief; it won’t sting because it’s freeze-dried. Long-term use of the herb is not recommended, since it can deplete your potassium stores.

Even though foods can be great natural allergy cures, some can actually trigger allergy symptoms. The condition is called “oral allergy syndrome” and occurs when your body mistakes proteins in certain foods for the same allergic proteins in ragweed. On the upside, cooking those foods neutralizes the offending proteins. So if you’re a fall allergy sufferer, here are few foods to either cook first or avoid entirely during allergy season: apples, bananas, melons, (watermelon, cantaloupe, and honeydew), cucumber, zucchini, chamomile tea, echinacea, honey, and nuts.

The African violet, known botanically as Saintpaulia, is one of the most popular flowering houseplants. African violets are easy to grow for the beginning gardener, yet offer a wide range of cultivars to satisfy the serious grower. African violets adapt well to typical growing conditions found in the home. Because of their small stature, they also adapt well to limited space gardens such as those in apartments with just a few windowsills.

Many cultivars of African violets are available, ranging from miniatures (plants 6 inches or less in diameter) to large (over 16 inches in diameter). Flowers come in blue, purple, lavender, pink, red, and white as well as bi- colored and multicolored forms. Flower shapes also vary from single, star-shaped blooms to double, semi- double, fringed, and ruffled. Even the leaves come in different types, including ruffled, scalloped, quilted, and variegated.

Proper light is a necessity for good bloom. African violets need more light than most growers think. Thin, dark green leaves and long petioles (leaf stems) indicate that the plant is getting too little light. Too much light results in stunted plants with short petioles and small, crinkled, and leathery leaves.

Avoid putting African violets in direct sunlight, which can yellow and burn the leaves. A window facing north or east is usually the best, especially during the summer. For more even growth, turn the plants occasionally so different sides face the light.

Most violet fanciers find plants grown under artificial light will flower more profusely. If fluorescent light is the total light source, the violet will require approximately 600 foot- candles of light for 15 hours per day. Two 40-watt fluorescent tubes suspended 12 to 15 inches above the plants will provide 600 foot-candles of light. For best results, use the wide spectrum fluorescent tubes. However, regular tubes plus one or two incandescent bulbs will suffice.

Whether you use artificial light or not, remember both the intensity and the length of light are important. The closer the plant is to a light source, the greater the intensity. Also, the longer the exposure period, the greater the total amount of light.

African violets grow best at a 65º to 70ºF night temperature, with a 10º to 15º increase during the day. To guard against night chilling, remove your violets from the window at night, or put paper between the plants and the window. Chilled violets turn dark within 24 hours, become water-soaked, then wither.

If the temperatures are higher than 70ºF, light conditions should be near optimum, and a higher humidity is desirable. If temperatures exceed 80ºF, growth and flowering will be slowed. Air-conditioned rooms are especially beneficial.

High humidity is beneficial. Homes with humidifiers and basement growing areas are well suited for violet culture.

Individual potted plants can be placed on a metal or plastic container filled with gravel, perlite, or sand. A shallow layer of water for evaporation in the atmosphere can be maintained in the container bottom. However, do not set the bottom of the pot directly in the water.

Soils for growing African violets need to remain loose and well-drained for several years. Thus, most garden soils are unsatisfactory when used alone. High organic matter is recommended. Sphagnum peat moss is the best source of organic matter.

African violets can be grown in nearly any container as long as it has drainage holes. For decorative effect, clay or plastic pots can be set inside decorative pots.

When potting, the soil moisture should be just moist enough to squeeze together slightly. Fill the pot, carefully centering the plant in the soil mixture. Firm the soil carefully, but allow at least 1/4 inch for top watering.

Position the plant crown slightly above the rim of the plant. Use foil or some tape along the rim of a clay pot to keep the leaf petioles from rotting.

Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. Fewer leaves are broken if the plant is allowed to wilt slightly before repotting.

The amount of water and frequency of watering will vary according to the soil mixture used, size of the pot, drainage, and the environmental conditions under which the plants are grown. Both over-watering and under- watering can injure roots.

Watering methods for African violets are a source of controversy. Any method which maintains an adequately moist soil is satisfactory. Keep the crown dry, keep cold water off the leaves, and use room temperature water.

Watering from the top is the easiest way to give your plants the moisture they need. Apply water to the surface of the soil until it starts to drip out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot.

To water from the bottom, fill the saucer under the pot with water and let stand until the soil surface becomes moist, then drain off any excess water.

Whether watering from the top or bottom, wait until the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch before watering again.

However, when plants are continuously watered from the bottom, salts tend to collect on the top of the soil. The concentration of salts may become high enough to injure the plants. Flush with water from the top about once a month to prevent salt accumulation.

Over-fertilization is usually a bigger problem than under- fertilization. The plant itself will determine the degree of fertilization necessary. If the growth rate decreases and the leaves gradually become lighter green, fertilizer may be needed. During the winter months, fertilization can be omitted, unless the plants are grown under artificial light.

During the active growing season (spring, summer, and fall), any complete, water soluble fertilizer, applied as directed on the label, can be used; one formulated for blooming houseplants is preferred.

The easiest and best way to make new plants is by rooting leaves. Break mature but not old leaves flush with the stem of the parent plant. Leave 1 to 1 1/2 inches of the leaf petiole attached to the leaf blade. Place the petiole (stalk) into a rooting media of coarse sand, vermiculite, or half vermiculite and half sand. Firm gently and water thoroughly. Cuttings root best at 65º to 75ºF with a high relative humidity.

Roots usually appear within 4 to 6 weeks, and leaves 4 to 8 weeks later. Petioles inserted too deeply will require a longer time to root.

Usually several plants are formed around each petiole base. If you want multiple-crown plants, plant the entire group. For single-crown plants, carefully separate each plant by gently pulling apart. Each new plant with its root system should be potted in a 2 or 2-1/2 inch pot.

Divide old plants with multiple crowns by carefully cutting the crowns with a sharp razor blade so that each has a portion of the original root system. Enclose the plant in a ventilated plastic bag to maintain high humidity and prevent wilting until the new root system develops.

It is critical that all tools and working surfaces are clean during propagation of plants. A solution of 5% chlorine bleach (1 part chlorine bleach:5 parts water) will insure a clean propagation area.

Source: extension.purdue.edu

Thru October 30

Wednesdays thru Saturdays, 6:30 p.m.-9:30 p.m. in October, rain or shine

In the gardens @ Olbrich Botanical Gardens

Definition: Gleam n. a flash of light; n. an appearance of reflected light; v. shine brightly like a star or light; v. appear briefly

GLEAM is a GO!

Olbrich Gardens’ GLEAM exhibit will shine bright this fall, providing a fun and safe way for everyone to explore the outdoor Gardens at night!

Designers from around the country and beyond will transform the Gardens with art installations that swing, fly, flutter, and float! Step into the world of infinity and learn the secret to unlocking the rainbow.

Advanced timed-tickets are required and are available @ olbrich.doubleknot.com/openrosters/availableevents.aspx?orgkey=4403

GLEAM, an annual outdoor art exhibit, features large scale light installations created by local, regional, and international designers. Take an enchanting stroll through Olbrich’s 16-acre garden after dark and see the Gardens in a whole new light!

-Admittance limited to 200 visitors every 30 minutes

-Touch-free ticket scanned at the front doors allows for limited contact with staff and volunteers

-Early admittance not permitted; each time slot is allotted a 10-minute arrival window

-No internet access, no problem – contact Missy Jeanne at 608-246-5616 for assistance with ticket purchasing

Face Mask Policy:

Face masks are required indoors in Dane Co. per the mandates @ your registered time. Face masks are optional outdoors but recommended.

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

Sunday, October 3, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm

Walk

Learn about the land; plants, animals, and fungi; phenology; and ecological practices and concepts. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Event capacity is limited. Meet at the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Wednesday, October 6, from 6:30-7:30 p.m.

Presenter: Lisa Johnson, Dane County Extension Horticulture Educator

There is gardening life even in the presence of black walnuts that produce a toxin that negatively affects the growth and survival of other plants. Learn about juglone (the toxin), and a number of woody, perennial and vegetable plants that are susceptible to or resistant to juglone.

Lisa has a bachelor’s degree in Horticulture from the University of Wisconsin-Madison and a master’s degree in Life Sciences Communication. Prior to that she spent 8 years working in the horticulture industry.

She has been the Dane County Extension Horticulture Educator since 2004. Among her responsibilities are training Master Gardener Volunteers, providing continuing education for members of the green industry, overseeing management of the Dane County Extension Teaching Garden, and acting as staff for the Dane County Tree Board.

She gives frequent presentations to garden clubs, schools and libraries in southern Wisconsin, has a weekly column in the WI State Journal and is a regular guest on Larry Meiller’s ‘Garden Talk’ program on Wisconsin Public Radio.

How To Register:

Note: This is an online event being held via Zoom. A link will be provided via email prior to the event.

To register, please complete a registration form (see below) and submit with your payment in person, by mail, or by phone:

—In person: at our Garden Gift Gallery (check, cash, or credit card) – Open Monday-Friday 10a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

—By mail: Send completed form with your check made out to Rotary Botanical Gardens to Attn: Education Coordinator, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI 53545. NOTE: Registration and payment must be received prior to the deadline in order to be enrolled in the class. Deadline for this Botanic Talk is 10/4.

—By phone: Please call (608) 752-3885 to register over the phone with a credit card.

Registration Forms:

—If you are interested in attending this event, please download and complete the registration form @ Plants That Grow Under Black Walnuts Registration.

Cost: Rotary Botanical Gardens members: $7, General public: $10

Cancellations & Refunds:

Classes cancelled due to low enrollment will be refunded automatically, and you will be notified by phone or email of the cancellation.

Call (608) 314-8415 or email delaney.sherwood@rotarygardens.org for more info.

Rotary Botanical Gardens

1455 Palmer Drive

Janesville, WI,

608/752-3885 or www.rotarybotanicalgardens.org/

Thursday, October 7, 9:00 am – 11:00 am

Virtual Class

Arboretum birds range from the tiny hummingbird to the majestic bald eagle. Some stay year-round while others pass through in spring and fall. Chuck Henrikson, an avid birder and citizen scientist, monitors birds at the Arboretum weekly, all year long, rain or shine. He logs his sightings with eBird and writes birding reports for Journey North. He will share his knowledge and love of birds in this webinar. Register by October 3 @ https://arboretum.wisc.edu/classes/birds-of-the-arboretum/. Fee: $20.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Sunday, October 10, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm

Walk

This walk is a fun and fascinating way for families with children elementary age and younger to explore the natural world. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Adults must attend. Free, no registration required. Event capacity is limited. Meet at the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Thursday, October 14, 9:00 am – 11:00 am

Virtual Class

Learn about the fascinating life of bluebirds, bluebird behavior, the reasons for bluebird decline, and restoration efforts. Instructor: Sylvia Marek, Arboretum naturalist, who created the Arboretum’s bluebird trail and has monitored it for more than 20 years. Register by October 11 @ https://arboretum.wisc.edu/classes/bluebirds/. Fee: $20.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Saturday, October 16, 6:30 pm – 8:00 pm

Walk

Hear the last insects calling in the grasslands and see migrating birds on their way south. We will walk under the waxing moon (full moon is October 20), looking and listening for animal life and sky shadows. Free, no registration required. Event capacity is limited. Meet at the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Sunday, October 17, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm

Walk

Learn about the land; plants, animals, and fungi; phenology; and ecological practices and concepts. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Event capacity is limited. Meet at the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Thursday, October 21, 9:00 am – 11:00 am

Virtual Class

Learn about Wisconsin’s twelve owl species, focusing on the three that nest in Madison, and how to identify these elusive birds of prey. Habitat, calls, courtship, hunting, and eating will be discussed. Instructor: Sylvia Marek, Arboretum naturalist. Fee: $20. Register by October 18 @ https://arboretum.wisc.edu/classes/owls/.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Sunday, October 24, 1:00 pm – 2:00 pm

Walk

This gently paced stroll through the gardens is well-suited for a multi-generational outing. Learn about plants, animals, and fungi; phenology; and ecology. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Routes are wheelchair accessible when weather allows. Free, no registration required. Event capacity is limited. Meet at the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Saturday, October 30, 1:00 pm – 3:00 pm

Class

Earthen mounds with conical, linear, and animal shapes were built by Native people in southern Wisconsin. The effigy mound groups at the Arboretum are among the few remaining of hundreds built in our area more than 1,000 years ago. Learn about the mounds, the people who created them, and their environment. Takes place indoors, with an outdoor walk if weather permits. Instructor: Paul Borowsky, Arboretum naturalist. Meet at the Visitor Center. Fee: $20. Register by October 26 @ https://arboretum.wisc.edu/classes/mounds-of-the-arboretum/.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Sunday, October 31, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm

Walk

Learn about the land; plants, animals, and fungi; phenology; and ecological practices and concepts. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Event capacity is limited. Meet at the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Sunday, October 31, 2:00 pm – 3:30 pm

Walk

In the 1920s, developers planned a “Venice of the North,” to be called Lake Forest. That land is now part of the Arboretum. Hike to the site of the failed subdivision, discovering construction remnants along the way. Portions of the hike require stepping over obstacles. Free. Space is limited, advance registration is required, opens October 1 and closes October 24 or when full: https://arboretum-lost-city-tour-2021.eventbrite.com. Meet outside the Visitor Center.

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu

Saturday, November 6, 9:00-3:00

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

The Herb Fair annually sponsored by the Madison Herb Society, reaches out to the public through lectures and demonstrations and provides an outlet for members to expand their knowledge and abilities to use herbs.

Hear about herbs from speakers and vendors. Purchase herbal products. Make & take projects, demonstrations, and a Q & A station. Free! Sponsored by the Madison Herb Society. Visit www.madisonherbsociety.org.

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave., Madison

608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.

Saturday, November 6, from 9:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m

Check-in: 8-9:00

The registration fee is $70 for RBG members or $85 for non-members. The registration deadline is Oct 20, 2021; no refunds will be issued after Oct. 29.

At this time we are planning an in-person event, but we will notify all registrants if we are forced to move to a virtual format. If this happens, your registration will be upheld, and you will be reimbursed the difference of our virtual symposium rate ($36 for members and $45 non-members).

Featured Speakers and Topics:

-David Stevens, Curator of Longenecker Horticultural Gardens at the UW Arboretum.

Topic: “Flowering Shrubs for All Seasons”

-Kelly D. Norris, author and plantsman. Topic: “More Than Turf”

-Michael Jesiolowski, Rotary Botanical Gardens Director of Horticulture. Topic: “Have Plants, Will Travel”

How To Register

ALL areas of the registration form must be complete. Please complete a separate form for each registrant. You may also print out a PDF version of the registration form and submit with your payment:

—Online: Please complete the form at the bottom of the link @ https://rotarybotanicalgardens.org/education/symposia/

—In person: At our Garden Gift Gallery (check, cash, or credit card)

—By mail: Send completed form (Registration pdf) with your check made out to Rotary Botanical Gardens to: Education Coordinator, Rotary Botanical Gardens, 1455 Palmer Drive, Janesville, WI 53545

NOTE: Registration and payment must be received prior to the deadline in order to be enrolled in the class.

—By phone: please call (608) 752-3885 to register over the phone with a credit card.

Cancellations & Refunds:

Classes cancelled due to low enrollment will be refunded automatically, and you will be notified by phone or email of the cancellation. If you must cancel, your registration fees will be refunded if cancellation is received by Oct. 21.

Call (608) 314-8415 or email delaney.sherwood@rotarygardens.org for more info.

Rotary Botanical Gardens

1455 Palmer Drive

Janesville, WI,

608/752-3885 or www.rotarybotanicalgardens.org/

Saturdays, Now thru November 13, 6:15-1:45

On the Capitol Square

Wednesdays, Now thru November 3, 8:30-1:45

In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.

For details visit www.dcfm.org

Sundays, Now through October 24, 8:30-12:30

In the Northside TownCenter at the intersection of N. Sherman Ave. and Northport Dr. across from Warner Park.

The Northside Farmers Market is a nonprofit community enterprise. It is one of the newest and fastest growing farmers’ markets in Dane County. In keeping with the innovative spirit of Madison’s Northside, we are surpassing what defines the traditional farmers’ market. Our fundamental principles include:

–Providing an abundant selection of high quality, locally grown foods.

The market accepts Quest, WIC and Senior FMNP vouchers.

–Supporting our local agricultural entrepreneurs who are increasingly important today in ensuring that we have the best and safest food possible.

–Educating the community about traditional foods and the history of local agriculture in an attempt to preserve (and expand upon) our rich heritage.

–Promoting nutrition and the market by hosting dinners for neighborhood groups and seniors.

Parking is always FREE!

For details visit www.northsidefarmersmarket.org

OCTOBER IN THE GARDEN-–A checklist of things to do this month.

**Although the average first frost date for Madison is about Oct. 6, killing frosts have occurred as early as September 12 (1955). Be aware of quick weather changes this time of year. Be prepared to cover tender plants at any time.

___Visit Olbrich, Rotary or Allen Centennial Gardens and note plants of fall interest for spring planting and best selection.

___Dig new beds now! It’s easier now than in spring when super-busy.

___Take geranium, salvia, impatiens, abutilon cuttings before the first freeze.

___Plant spring bulbs now! Plant tulips, daffodils, hyacinths & crocus.

___Plant bulbs for forcing and put in a cool location for 10-12 weeks.

___Plant Christmas amaryllis now for holiday blooms; paperwhites now for Thanksgiving blooms.

___Apply a systemic pesticide to plants to be wintered over indoors.

___Move potted bulbs to be stored like begonias, callas, caladiums and cannas to a garage so they can dry out before storage.

___Dig up and store dahlias, glads, cannas and elephant’s ear after tops freeze.

___Continue planting deciduous shrubs and trees until the ground freezes.

___Divide and plant perennials as desired.

___Clean up stalks and leaves of annuals and vegetables, preventing viruses and pests for next year’s garden.

___Continue harvesting brussels sprouts, kale, greens and root crops.

___Plant garlic. October is the best time.

___Stop deadheading perennials for winter interest, i.e. sedums, grasses, etc.

___Cut perennials back to 4-6”, leaving those for winter interest.

___Collect seeds for next year’s garden.

___Plant winter rye as a cover crop for spring tilling.

___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.

___Take pictures of your garden for record keeping.

___Mow the lawn at shortest setting for last mowing of the season.

___Visit Klein’s—Great selection of mums, kales, cabbages, pansies & more!

Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887

Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447

Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441

Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901

Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864

Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369

Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400

Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333

Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990

Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395

Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131

Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333

Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852

Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637

John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838

McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998

High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387

Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038

Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794

Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035

Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379

White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624

BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.

—We’ve put any leftover perennials to bed for the winter in one of out unheated back greenhouses. It’s been a good season…we have nothing left to pack away.

—We begin shutting down the back greenhouses. They remain unheated for the winter allowing energy savings and pest control.

—Weatherizing continues. We seal up and insulate unused doors and caulk up air leaks. Water is shut off to the greenhouses not used during the winter.

—Pots, cell packs and trays arrive from our wholesalers in preparation for next spring. Most are stored in the unused greenhouses out back. It’s only 3 months till the first of next year’s geranium crop arrive (we already have some of next season’s tropicals).

—Cyclamen, primrose and herbs continue to arrive for winter sales.

—We send out our mailings to local churches regarding poinsettia and blooming plant information for the upcoming holidays. We are proud to say that hundreds of area churches and businesses are decked out with Klein’s HOMEGROWN poinsettias during the holiday season.

—By month’s end the poinsettias begin to change color. Looking across the greenhouses, one begins to see hints of red, pink and white. We’ve moved many of our poinsettias into our retail area from the back greenhouses before cold weather sets in.

Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page. We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.

Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.

We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.

Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.

Join Klein’s on Twitter where we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.

We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.

Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/recycling/plastic.cfm

Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.

Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.

A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.

We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.

Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.

There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.

Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.

We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.

Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.

During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.

It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.

DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.

Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661

Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com

Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com

Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com

Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com

University of Wisconsin Extension

1 Fen Oak Ct. #138

Madison, WI 53718

608/224-3700

Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic

Dept. of Plant Pathology

1630 Linden Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

Insect Diagnostic Lab

240 Russell Labs

1630 Linden Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab

8452 Mineral Point Rd.

Verona, WI 53593

608/262-4364

American Horticultural Society

Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)

also http://www.mailordergardening.com/

Invasive Species

Community Groundworks

3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4

Madison, WI 53704

608/240-0409

Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)

Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program

Department of Horticulture

1575 Linden Drive

University of Wisconsin – Madison

Madison, WI 53706

608/265-4504

The Wisconsin Gardener

Allen Centennial Gardens

620 Babcock Dr.

Madison, WI 53706

608/262-8406

Olbrich Botanical Gardens

3330 Atwood Ave.

Madison, WI 53704

608/246-4550

Rotary Gardens

1455 Palmer Dr.

Janesville, WI 53545

608/752-3885

University of WI Arboretum

1207 Seminole Hwy.

Madison, WI 53711

608/263-7888

University of Wisconsin-West Madison

Agricultural Research Center

8502 Mineral Point Rd.

Verona, WI 53593

608/262-2257

Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.

•Bird of paradise

•Bull nettle

•Castor bean

•Chinaberry tree

•Crocus

•Daffodil

•Deadly nightshade

•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)

•Foxglove

•Glory lily

•Hemlock

•Holly berry

•Indian tobacco

•Iris

•Jimsonweed

•Lantana

•Larkspur

•Lily of the valley

•Marijuana

•Mescal bean

•Mexicantes

•Mistletoe

•Morning glory

•Mountain laurel

•Night-blooming jasmine

•Nutmeg

•Oleander

•Philodendron

•Poison ivy

•Poison sumac

•Pokeweed

•Poppy

•Potato

•Privet

•Rhododendron

•Rhubarb

•Water hemlock

•Wisteria

Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/

•Aconite

•Apple

•Arrowgrasses

•Autumn Crocus

•Azaleas

•Baneberry

•Bird-of-Paradise

•Black locust

•Bloodroot

•Box

•Buckeye

•Buttercup

•Caladium

•Carolina jessamine

•Castor bean

•Chinaberry tree

•Chockcherries

•Christmas berry

•Christmas Rose

•Common privet

•Corn cockle

•Cowbane

•Cow cockle

•Cowsliprb

•Daffodil

•Daphne

•Day lily

•Delphinium (Larkspur)

•Dumbcane

•Dutchman’s breeches

•Easter lily

•Elderberry

•Elephant’s ear

•English Ivy

•European Bittersweet

•Field peppergrass

•Foxglove

•Holly

•Horsechestnut

•Horse nettle

•Hyacinth

•Iris

•Jack-in-the-pulpit

•Jerusalem Cherry

•Jimsonweed

•Lantana

•Larkspur

•Laurels

•Lily of the valley

•Lupines

•Mayapple

•Milk vetch

•Mistletoe

•Monkshood

•Morning glory

•Mustards

•Narcissus

•Nicotiana

•Nightshade

•Oaks

•Oleander

•Philodendrons

•Pokeweed

•Poinsettia

•Poison hemlock

•Potato

•Rhododendron

•Rhubarb

•Rosary pea

•Sago palm

•Skunk cabbage

•Smartweeds

•Snow-on-the-mountain

•Sorghum

•Star of Bethlehem

•Wild black cherry

•Wild radish

•Wisteria

•Yellow jessamine

•Yew