‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—NOVEMBER 2022
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
3758 E. Washington Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/244-5661 or info@kleinsfloral.com
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS:
Now Hiring Floral Designers and a Delivery Driver
Holiday Decorating With Fresh Greenery
Our ‘Mad Gardener‘ and ‘Houseplant Help‘ Are Ready for Your Questions
Plant Your Spring Bulbs Into Early December
Thanksgiving Floral Decorating Ideas
Yet Another New Pest Invades the U.S…Spotted Lanternfly
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
You Asked about Digging and Storing Elephant’s Ears
Plant of the Month: Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis)
Klein’s Favorite Parsnip Recipes
Product Spotlight: Wilt Stop™ and Wilt-Pruf® Anti-Desiccants
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—From October 2022
—Leaf Loss & Overwintered Houseplants
—Cold Temp TLC for Transporting Houseplants
—’American Gold Rush’ Rudbeckia Named 2023 Perennial Plant of the Year
November in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
NOW HIRING PART-TIME FLORAL DELIVERY DRIVER
Klein’s is currently looking for a part-time floral delivery driver. We’re looking for someone with a flexible schedule, who is available 2-3 days a week from about 8:00-2:00. Occasional Saturdays and floral holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mothers’ Day, etc.) are required. No experience is necessary with on the job training. A good driving record is a must, however.
This may be a perfect job if you’re retired and want to remain active or would like some extra cash working in a fun and unique environment.
If you enjoy meeting people and putting a smile on their face, this might be the job for you!!
Please stop by the store or contact Rick or Sue @ 608-244-5661 for more information.
NOW HIRING FLORAL DESIGNER(S)
We are now hiring floral designers to work with our floral manager Darcy before she retires at the end of the year. Floral holidays and some Saturdays are required. Flexible hours. Please contact Sue (sue@kleinsfloral.com) for more information.
KLEIN’S 2022 HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE is Saturday, November 19 and Sunday, November 20. Enter a winter wonderland filled with our homegrown poinsettias, holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs.
On Friday, November 18 from 3:00-6:00 join us for our HOLIDAY SNEAK PEEK. Customers will be given a bag upon arrival and all items that can fit in the bag will be 20% off the marked price. Exclusions include: Old World Christmas ornaments, fresh evergreens (boughs, wreaths, roping, winter pots), natural & preserved branches, amaryllis and paperwhites, service fees, gift cards and prior purchases. Any single item must fit comfortably in the bag and cannot top the bag by more than 6 inches. Limited to 1 bag per customer for the evening and go to customers 16 and up.
Enlighten your senses as you step into our warm and cozy greenhouses. The serene beauty of being in the greenhouses after dark is a truly unique experience. Surround yourself with the sights, sounds and smells of the holidays!
SHOP FOR YOUR SPRING BULBS WHILE SUPPLIES LAST
November is a perfect time to plant your spring bulbs and nothing could be more uplifting after a long winter than bulbs popping through the melting snow. Allow the Klein’s staff to share planting tips and ideas to keep those pesky squirrels from digging up those newly planted bulbs. And for indoor blooms, don’t forget a few hyacinths, paperwhites and amaryllis for indoor forcing. We carry a lovely assortment of forcing glasses, vases and decorative pottery. Forced bulbs make for an inexpensive and treasured holiday gift. Any bulb questions? Don’t forget our Mad Gardener @ madgardener@kleinsfloral.com!
A Reminder: Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes . . . usually into early December.
THE MAD GARDENER
Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
KLEIN’S ‘HOUSEPLANT HELP’
You can contact Klein’s in-house indoor plant experts by emailing to houseplanthelp@kleinsfloral.com for sound information and advice regarding indoor tropicals, succulents, blooming plants and so much more.
For many years, customers’ indoor plant questions have been directed to Klein’s Mad Gardener. Now you have the opportunity to contact our indoor plant experts directly. We’ve posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
We reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
NOVEMBER STORE HOURS:
Monday thru Friday : 9:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
November 2–Día de los Muertos
November 6–Daylight Savings Time Ends
November 8–Election Day (National)
November 8–Full Moon
November 11–Veterans’ Day
November 18–Holiday Open House Sneak Peek (3:00-6:00)
November 19 & 20–KLEIN’S HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE. Enter a winter wonderland filled with holiday plants and gift ideas. Let us inspire you with our extensive collection of gift ideas and ornaments for all your decorating needs. Visit our website closer to the event for more details.
November 22—Thanksgiving Wine & Design. Join us 5:30-6:30 to design your own centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table with Sue at Klein’s. Enjoy a glass of wine and appetizers. Cost is $40. Advance registration and payment is required @ sue@kleinsfloral.com or at 608/244-5661.
November 24–Thanksgiving Day (Store Closed)
November 25–Black Friday. Escape to Klein’s from the hustle and bustle of the malls and big box chain stores for a more relaxing and intimate holiday gift shopping experience. We not only carry merchandise for the gardener in your life, but many fun, interesting and unique gift ideas.
November 26–Small Business Saturday. In appreciation for supporting our small and local business, Klein’s will give you a $20 gift card on future purchases (January 1-March 31) for all purchases of $100 or more.
‘THE FLOWER SHOPPE’:
With Thanksgiving just around the corner, here are a few ideas from the Society of American Florists’ website at www.aboutflowers.com. For more decorating ideas give Klein’s a call at 608/244-5661 and ask for one of our talented designers—Darcy, Andrea, Bonnie or Sue. Be sure to order early for prompt delivery. For delivery details visit kleinsfloral.com/delivery-information/.
Appointed as a day to give thanks for the bountiful gifts of the land, the first national Thanksgiving day was proclaimed by George Washington and celebrated on November 26, 1789. In 1863 Abraham Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday to be celebrated on the last Thursday of November. The Canadian observance of Thanksgiving began in 1879 and is celebrated annually on the second Monday of October.
Thanksgiving Floral Decorating Ideas
•Accessorize a large table by placing a long, narrow centerpiece in the center of the table. Add a few smaller accent pieces or candles on each side of the arrangement for an added effect.
•Ask your florist to create a centerpiece in a treasured family vase or bowl, or in seasonal pieces such as a cornucopia or a utility vase surrounded by dry corn cobs.
•To create a lot of drama and variety, place a topiary at one end of the table leading to a cluster of small potted plants, then two smaller topiaries with candles leading to a tray of votive candles and flower petals, and so on…
•Ask your florist to use vegetables or fruits as accents in your floral arrangement.
•Garnish your serving trays with flowers and greens.
•Scatter colorful fall leaves, flowers and votive candles along the center of your dining table.
•Float flowers in crystal wine glasses.
•Place a single long-stem rose on each plate to welcome your guests to the table.
•Decorate small desserts with flowers or make an ice ring with flowers to chill champagne or wine.
•Ask your florist to design the arrangements for your buffet table on several different levels to keep the eye flowing all along the table.
•Place a garland of fruit, flowers and fall foliage over your front door.
Flower Suggestions
Chrysanthemums, bittersweet, gerbera daisies, roses, carnations, alstroemeria, lilies, wheat, solidago, monte casino, marigolds. Potted plants in season include chrysanthemums, daisies and cyclamen.
***Thanksgiving Wine & Design at Klein’s. Join us Tuesday, November 22, 5:30-6:30, to design your own centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table with Sue at Klein’s. Enjoy a glass of wine and appetizers. Cost is $40. Advance registration and payment is required @ sue@kleinsfloral.com or at 608/244-5661***
YOU ASKED. . .
How do I dig & store elephant’s ears planted in my garden? Gene
Hi Gene,
If yours are colocasia, wait until they freeze off. Once they freeze off, cut off the blackened foliage to about 3″. Dig the bulbs or the entire clump if possible. Place them in a cardboard box and place in a cool, dry place (usually the garage) for 3-4 weeks allowing them too cure and seal, much like potatoes or onions. Once cured, pack them in dry peat moss in a cool, dry place. The cooler the better, but above 42º.
I usually plant and begin watering my elephants ears in late January. They are very slow to get started. By the time I put mine back into my garden in May they are about 2′ tall.
If you have an alocasia rather than colocasia, they can be potted and treated like houseplants through the winter. They prefer to remain active rather than go through a dormant period.
Thanks for your question,
DID YOU KNOW. . .
. . that now is the perfect time to help prevent winter burn from occurring to your conifers and shrubs during the cold months ahead?
The past three winters have been particularly hard on Madison area conifers, shrubs and ornamental trees. The following article discussing winter burn is by Laura Jull, UW-Madison Horticulture @ hort.extension.wisc.edu
What is winter burn? Winter burn is a common problem of evergreens including those with broad leaves (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron), needles (e.g., fir, hemlock, pine, spruce, yew) and scale-like leaves (e.g., arborvitae, false cypress, juniper) grown in open, unprotected locations and exposed to severe winter conditions. Evergreen plants that are marginally hardy in a location (i.e., not well-adapted to local winter conditions) are at increased risk for winter burn. Winter burn can be so severe that affected plants may die and/or require replacement.
What does winter burn look like? Winter burn symptoms often become apparent as the snow melts and spring temperatures rise. Foliage starts to brown at the tips of branches with browning progressing inward toward the center of the plant. On broad-leaved evergreens, leaf edges typically brown first, followed by browning of entire leaves. Foliage facing south, southwest or west is most often affected. Symptomatic foliage often begins to drop off starting in spring and continuing through mid-summer as new foliage is produced. In extreme cases, entire plants can brown and die.
What causes winter burn? There are many factors that can contribute to winter burn. In general, plants with shallow or poorly-developed root systems that do not efficiently take up water (e.g., recent transplants) are more prone to winter burn. Warm fall temperatures that delay the onset of plant dormancy can also contribute to winter burn. Under such conditions, plants are not prepared for the subsequent rapid onset of freezing winter temperatures, and as a result damage to foliage occurs. Similar cold injury can occur mid-winter when temperatures drop sharply at sunset causing foliage that has warmed during the day to rapidly cool and freeze. In addition, on sunny winter days, foliage (particularly foliage facing the sun) can begin to transpire (i.e., naturally lose water through the foliage). Because the ground is frozen, plant roots cannot take up water and replace the water that has been lost from the foliage. As a result, foliage dries and browns. Foliage under snow or facing away from the sun and direct winds is usually not damaged. Strong winter winds can lead to additional water loss making winter burn more severe. Colder than normal winter temperatures and longer than normal winters can also be factors in the development of winter burn, especially if below normal temperatures occur into April (the time of year when plants normally come out of dormancy and are most susceptible to winter injury). Finally, exposure of plants to salt used to deice roads, driveways and sideways during the winter can make plants more prone to winter burn injury.
How do I save a plant with winter burn? For evergreens such as arborvitaes, boxwoods, junipers and yews, prune out dead, brown, damaged or dying tissue in mid-spring after new foliage is produced. If new foliage has not yet emerged by spring, scratch the bark on affected branches and look for green tissue underneath. Also gently peel back the bud scales to look for inner green bud tissue. If the stem or bud tissue is green, buds on the branch may still break to form new foliage. If the tissue is brown, the branch is most likely dead and you should prune the branch back to a live, lateral bud or branch. Such buds and branches may be far back inside the canopy and pruning may remove a substantial amount of the plant. Pines, spruces and firs typically produce new growth at branch tips in spring that will replace winter burn-damaged needles, and thus pruning may not be required on these evergreens. After a couple of growing seasons, new foliage will fill in the areas that were damaged. If an entire evergreen is brown, recovery is unlikely and the plant should be replaced with something (e.g., a deciduous shrub or tree) that is better-suited to the site.
How do I avoid problems with winter burn in the future? Use a variety of strategies to prevent winter burn before winter arrives. Plant the right plant in the right place. Buy plants that are rated as cold hardy for your location and are well-adapted to local growing and soil conditions. Plants exposed to drying winter sun and winds are more likely to be injured. Therefore, avoid planting winter injury sensitive evergreens, particularly those that require shade or that are marginally cold-hardy, in exposed, sunny, windy areas. Plant them on the northeast or east side of a building or in a protected courtyard. Plant boxwoods, hemlocks, rhododendrons, and yews in partial shade to provide them added protection from winter sun and wind.
—Plant evergreens at the right time of year. Optimally plant evergreens either in early spring (before buds break) or in late summer (i.e., August through September). Evergreens can be planted in the summer if you provide supplemental water. Avoid planting after early October in northern Wisconsin and after mid-October in southern Wisconsin as this will not allow sufficient time for roots to grow adequately before the ground freezes.
—DO NOT prune evergreens in late summer or early fall. Late season pruning of some non-native evergreens may encourage a flush of new growth that will not harden off properly before winter.
—Mulch evergreens properly. Apply two inches (on clay soils) to four inches (on sandy soils) of loose mulch (e.g., shredded hardwood, pine, or cedar bark; leaf compost; or wood chips) around the base of evergreens out to at least the drip line (e.g., the edge of where the branches extend). Keep mulch at least three inches away from the trunks of trees and the bases of shrubs. Proper mulch insulates roots from severe fluctuations of soil temperatures and reduces water loss. It also helps protect roots from injury due to heaving that occurs when soils go through cycles of freezing and thawing during the winter. Heaving can especially be a problem for shallow-rooted and newly planted evergreens. DO NOT mulch excessively or too close to plants as this can lead to damage by providing shelter for mice and voles (which can girdle trunks and branches) and by providing a favorable environment for disease development as well as insect activity and feeding.
—Water plants properly. Plants that are well-hydrated are less prone to winter burn. In particular, newly planted or young evergreens, especially those planted in open, exposed sites, those planted under eaves, or those planted in dry falls may suffer severe moisture loss during the winter and consequently severe winter burn. ***Established evergreens should receive approximately one inch of water per week and newly transplanted evergreens up to two inches of water per week during the growing season up until the soil freezes in the autumn or there is a significant snowfall.*** If supplemental watering is needed, use a soaker or drip hose to apply water near the drip lines of plants rather than using a sprinkler.
—Avoid late summer or fall fertilization. Applying quick-release, high-nitrogen fertilizers in late summer or fall could potentially stimulate growth of new foliage (particularly on some non-native evergreens) as well as inhibit proper onset of dormancy which can lead to damage over the winter. If you are concerned that your evergreens may need to be fertilized, submit a soil sample from around your plants to a professional soil testing lab that can provide specific information on what fertilizer to use and when to fertilize,
Protect plants during the winter. Use burlap, canvas, snow fencing or other protective materials to create barriers that will protect plants from winter winds and sun. Install four to five foot tall stakes approximately two feet from the drip lines of plants especially on the south and west sides (or any side exposed to wind) and wrap protective materials around the stakes to create “fenced” barriers. Leave the top open. These barriers will deflect the wind and protect plants from direct exposure to the sun. Remove the barrier material promptly in spring. DO NOT tightly wrap individual plants with burlap as this can collect ice, trap moisture and make plants more susceptible to infection by disease-causing organisms. Use of anti-transpirant products (see our Natural News feature later in this newsletter) to prevent water loss from foliage over the winter has been shown to have limited benefit. These materials degrade rapidly, require reapplication after each significant rain or snow event, and may not be effective in preventing water loss that can lead to winter burn.
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Bonide’s Wilt Stop™ and Wilt-Pruf® RTU Plant Protectors
These natural, non-toxic anti-desiccant/anti-transpirants, derived from the resin of pine trees, have the unique ability to form a soft, clear flexible film on treated plants. This film protects plants from drying out, drought, wind burn, sunscald, winter kill, transplant shock and salt damage. They also extends life of cut flowers and Christmas trees. Great for use year around on deciduous trees, evergreens, shrubs, roses, transplants, vegetables, fruit–5% Pinene.
What Are Anti-Desiccants?
Anti-desiccants, also called anti-transpirants, are sprays that provide a protective coating to evergreen foliage that reduces the amount of water that escapes. Anti-desiccants such as Moisturin are made of chemical polymers, and products such as Wilt Pruf and Wilt Stop are made from pine oil.
Anti-desiccants are gradually washed and worn away over several months, so by springtime they’re gone. While all anti-desiccants are marketed as biodegradable, the ones with the most natural ingredients will be safest for you and your plants.
In areas with harsh winters, anti-desiccants are applied twice, in November/December and again in February. In areas with more moderate winters, one application in December or January should see you through the coldest months.
How to Use Anti-Desiccants
Anti-dessicants are most often used on:
Broadleaf evergreens such as azalea, boxwood, holly, and rhododendron.
Conifers such as arborvitae, cedar, cypress, juniper, and pine.
Tender stems such as rose canes and hydrangea stems.
Caution: Don’t spray waxy-blue conifers such as blue spruce – they already have a natural coating that you don’t want to damage.
Follow all package instructions with your anti-desiccant, and also keep in mind these tips:
Pick a Nice Day: Anti-desiccants are best applied when temperatures are in the 40s-50s, with no rain forecast for a few days. Foliage needs to be dry when applied, and the spray needs time to dry afterward.
Don’t Spray too Early: Wait until at least December to spray conifers, because these plants can be damaged if you apply the anti-desiccant too early. These plants must be completely dormant (which involves moving water down to the roots) before applying, or else the spray will trap water in the leaves that will freeze and burst the plant cells later.
Spray Thoroughly: Plants lose water from both the tops and bottoms of the leaves. Be sure to spray the plant completely!
Other Uses for Anti-Desiccants
If you have spray left over, hang on to it. Anti-desiccants can also be used for:
Bulbs: You can apply an anti-desiccant to tender bulbs before storing.
Transplanting: If you find yourself transplanting a stressed shrub in midsummer, an anti-desiccant can help hold in moisture until the plants put out new roots.
Pumpkins: Apply anti-desiccant to your carved jack o’lantern to help it last longer.
Christmas Trees, Wreaths, Greens, etc.: Anti-desiccant can help keep your cut Christmas greenery from drying out as fast.
Source: www.todayshomeowner.com
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach
ENTRY: OCTOBER 18, 2022 (Leaf Loss & Overwintered Houseplants)
It’s been nearly a month now since I brought some of my tender plants indoors for the winter and they’re already beginning to display many of the symptoms associated with that radical and quick change to their environment. Leaf loss is the most obvious of the symptoms. From long and warm summer days in the garden, they’ve been crammed onto cold window sills or tucked into any corner that can accommodate them. The days are already hours shorter than just a few months ago and there’s still two more months until that trend reverses itself in late December. To make matters worse, temperatures rarely ever get out of the 60’s and humidity sometimes hovers around 30% in my house. It’s surprising that my tropical houseplants survive at all under these dismal conditions.
But plants, like most living things, are survivors and (within reason) are capable of adapting. During the summer outdoors in the warm temperatures and and with natural rainwater, most tropical plants grow like crazy; producing tons of new foliage. In the natural light and long days of summer, the plants can use all of this new foliage for photosynthesis. Plants grow vigorously and, in turn, put out even more foliage.
But here in the north, as the days get shorter and cooler, new growth essentially comes to a halt during the month of September. And once we move plants indoors, the amount of light available to them decreases yet again. Many plants no longer need all of the foliage they put out during the summer months. Leaves begin to yellow and drop. This is their way of coping with and adapting to their indoor living conditions. With fewer leaves there is also less water loss through the leaves due to transpiration. Most houseplants are simply needing to ‘rest’ until the days lengthen again during the month of February. This is why it’s essential to cut back on watering during the winter months and stop fertilizing all together. We’re not wanting to encourage new growth at this time of the year.
Leaf drop is most noticeable and dramatic on ficus trees. This is one of our most frequently asked questions and cause for concern among customers during the winter months. When people see leaves yellowing and dropping, they oftentimes assume (mistakenly) that they’re doing something wrong and need to change their behavior. Most often the customer moves the plant(s) to a different location, increases the watering and increases the fertilizing–all of which are the wrong thing to do with plants that are simply trying to adapt for the winter.
As for myself, I take a wait and see approach. After I rule out any pest problem, I simply cut off leaves as they yellow, endure a few brown leaf tips due to low humidity and clean up leaves as they fall. With ficus and begonias, this can be an almost daily endeavor for a couple of months. But once the plants have acclimated, they tolerate (not thrive in) their harsh living conditions until the first signs of spring appear in late February. As the days lengthen, I begin to increase their watering and start fertilizing again in preparation for another much welcomed summer outside in the garden.
* * * * *
ENTRY: OCTOBER 21, 2022 (Cold Temp TLC for Transporting Houseplants)
With the cold mornings, I’m again reminded that buying or moving houseplants in subfreezing temperatures requires a bit of planning and TLC during the winter months ahead.
Here are a few simple tips from Tim Johnson for the Chicago Tribune.
Buying Houseplants in Winter?
With the proper precautions, you should be able to continue purchasing houseplants all winter long.
Try to avoid buying them on very cold days, below 20 degrees, because it will be harder to protect them while you transport them. Even days in the 30s that may feel relatively warm to us can mean cold damage for more sensitive plants.
Most garden centers will wrap plants to protect them from cold temperatures as a matter of course. If they don’t, ask them to do so. Wrapping the plants also protects them from breaking.
Warm the car up before you carry the plants from the store and place them in it, especially if the outdoor temperature is below freezing. The colder the temperature, the more important it is to warm up the car.
Place the plants in the car in a stable location so that they do not tip over as you accelerate, brake and make turns. Never transport them in a cold trunk or allow them to sit in a cold car for any length of time. If you are running errands that include buying plants, make the garden center your last stop.
At home, set each plant on a stable surface and carefully tear or cut the wrapper from the bottom up to unwrap the plant. Do not attempt to pull the wrapper off the plant, as you may break stems, flowers or leaves.
If you cannot remove the wrapping right away once a plant is indoors, open the top to allow it to get air. Plants should stay within their wrappings for no more than 24 hours.
* * * * *
ENTRY: OCTOBER 22, 2022 (‘American Gold Rush’ Rudbeckia Named 2023 Perennial Plant of the Year)
At the height of summer, ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan turns up the volume for a long season of dazzling color right up to autumnal frosts. The bright golden-yellow flowers feature arching rays and a reddish halo surrounding dark chocolate cones. Three-inch flowers blanket the compact plant, only 22-27 inches tall with a broader width to 40 inches if given room to grow.
The green leaves and stems are covered in hairs, which gives them a silvery cast—on sunny days, peeking through the blooms to the leaves is a luminous silver-and-gold treat. More than just boosting the ornamental show, the hairy foliage is resistant to Septoria leaf spot—a debilitating fungal disease that causes unsightly black spotting and premature seasonal decline on some black-eyed Susans. ‘American Gold Rush’ is a reliable hardy perennial and a great substitute for popular, brassier ‘Goldsturm’, which is highly susceptible to leaf spotting.
‘American Gold Rush’ is a stunning focal point in perennial borders and meadows and is brilliant when massed in public or corporate landscapes. Butterflies caper over the blooms and songbirds feast on the plentiful seed long after the flowers have passed—the seedheads provide winter interest too. Garden companions are many, including alliums, asters, sages, and native grasses such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).
In 2023 Klein’s will be offering ‘American Gold Rush’ Rudbeckia in pint, quart and gallon sizes.
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
Parsnips are, sadly, one of the most underutilized vegetables available in American supermarkets. Though readily available, few people have actually tried these delectable, white, carrot-like root vegetables. Their sweet taste is absolutely delightful in any recipe that uses mixed roasted root vegetables and they add a unique sweetness when added to winter soups, stews or with pot roast. Harvested during the late fall, parsnips are at their peak during the winter months. They are usually sold in one pound bags alongside turnips, celeriac, beets and other similar root vegetables and are sometimes sold with a natural wax coating that must be peeled away before use. Though they store very well for the long term, the wax coating increases the amount of storage time. Parsnips are delicious both cooked or raw in salads or as a crudité with veggie dips.
Parsnips are very popular all over Europe, where they grew wild until the Middle Ages. In fact, the invasive, roadside wild parsnip was brought to America for its delicious and edible root and escaped from East Coast gardens generations ago. In the garden, parsnips have a very long growing season and are best harvested after the first frosts in the fall. Their flavor improves in cool temperatures and as their starch transforms into sugar. Parsnips are high in potassium and vitamin C.
PARSNIP AND APPLE SOUP–The reviews say this is a “perfect and easy recipe” from the pages of Bon Appetit magazine.
3 TBS. butter
3 large leeks, white and pale green parts, finely chopped; dark green parts reserved
5 large parsnips (1 1/2 lbs.), peeled and cut into 1/2″ pcs.
2 medium Gala or Fiji apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2″ pcs.
4+ cups water
1 1/2 cups whole milk (or skim/half & half blend)
a large pinch of sugar
salt & pepper to taste
Melt the butter in a large, heavy pot on medium-high heat. Add the leeks, parsnips and apples. Cover and cook until the veggies begin to soften, stirring often, about 20 minutes. Add 4 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the veggies are very tender, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly, add the milk, and puree in the pot with a hand blender or in batches in a blender, until smooth, thinning with more water as desired. Return the soup to the pot (if using a blender) and season to taste with sugar, salt and pepper. Cut the remaining greens into match-sized strips to get about 1 cup. Cook the strips in a small saucepan of boiling water about 10 minutes and drain. Bring the soup to a simmer. Serve the soup garnished with the leek strips. Serves 6.
PARSNIPS AND CELERIAC WITH NUTMEG–Another super-easy recipe from the pages of Bon Appetit.
4 TBS. butter
1 cup chopped onion
2 lbs. parsnips, peeled and cut into 1/2″ cubes
1 1/4 lbs. celeriac, peeled and cut into 1/2″ pcs. (2 cups)
1 1/4 cups chicken broth
1/2 cup whipping cream
1/2 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/2 cup fresh celery leaves, minced
salt & pepper to taste
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the onion and saute until almost tender, about 4 minutes. Add the parsnips and celeriac and toss to coat. Add the broth, cream and nutmeg and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover and simmer until tender and the liquid is almost absorbed, stirring occasionally and adding water by the tablespoonfuls if it gets too dry–about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the celery leaves and serve. Serves 8.
GLAZED PARSNIPS AND CELERY–This yummy recipe comes to us from the pages of Cooks Illustrated. Great with simple pork or chicken recipes.
1 1/2 TBS. butter
1 lb. parsnips peeled and cut into 1/2″ pcs.
3 stalks celery, sliced 1/2″ thick, bias cut
1/2 cup chicken or vegetable broth
1 TBS. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
Heat the butter in a large skillet on medium high heat. When foaming subsides, swirl to coat the skillet. Add the parsnips in an even layer and cook without stirring on medium high until browned, about 2-3 minutes. Stir in the celery and cook, stirring occasionally until well-browned, about 2 minutes longer. Add the broth, sugar, salt and pepper. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until tender, about 6 minutes. Uncover, turn the heat to high and cook, stirring, until the liquid reduces to a glaze, about 1 minute. Makes 4 side-dish servings.
PARSNIP FRIES–How easy could this recipe be?? From an issue of Martha Stewart’s Everyday Food.
2 1/2 lb. parsnips, peeled and cut into even-sized sticks
2 TBS. olive oil
coarse salt and pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 450º. In a large bowl, toss together the parsnips, oil and season to taste. Spread onto two rimmed sheets in a single layer and roast until tender and golden, about 25-30 minutes, rotating the sheets and tossing the parsnips about halfway through. Serves 4.
AROMATIC PARSNIPS AND CARROTS–From Better Homes & Gardens magazine.
1 1/2 lbs. parsnips, peeled and halved lengthwise
1 1/2 lbs. carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
3 TBS. olive oil
1/2 tsp. ground coriander
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 TBS. fresh cilantro
1 tsp. lemon zest
3/4 tsp. fennel seeds
2 TBS. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
1 TBS. olive oil
Cut the long carrot and parsnip sticks in half crosswise. In a large skillet, cook the parsnips in a small amount of salted boiling water, covered, 2 minutes. Add the carrots, return to a boil and cook 4 minutes. Drain the veggies and set aside. Wipe the skillet dry. Heat 3 TBS. oil on medium. Add the fennel, coriander and cinnamon and cook 1 minute until fragrant. Add the parsnips, carrots and garlic and cook 10-12 minutes, until the veggies are tender, turning occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro, zest, juice, salt and pepper, then drizzle with the remaining 1 TBS. oil. Serves 10.
NATURAL NEWS–
Stopping the Spread of Spotted Lanternfly
by Danae Wolfe for The American Gardener @ ahsgardening.org/
It was an overcast Friday morning in late May when I made my way to Cleveland with entomologist and Ohio State University Extension Educator Ashley Kulhanek to photograph an infestation of spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula). In the back alley parking lot of a manufacturing facility stood a tree-of-heaven with grapevines tangled throughout its branches.
At first glance, nothing seemed out of the ordinary—just an invasive tree-of-heaven capitalizing on disturbance to grow where other plants couldn’t. But upon closer inspection, we saw them. First a few, then dozens of small black-and-white-spotted insects crawling on the branches and leaves of the tree and entangled vine, two of the preferred host plants for spotted lanternflies. The invasive insect was first spotted at the Cleveland site in 2021 by a tree care company that was clearing branches from power lines. Despite treatment, eggs hatched the following spring, prompting staff from the Ohio State University Extension to keep an extra close eye on the infestation.
Some may say it was only a matter of time before spotted lanternflies invaded Ohio, but Kulhanek says that’s exactly the kind of thinking that gives us permission to let down our guard. “We can’t give up just because it’s hard to contain,” she says. “Every early detection buys us time to learn how to manage invasives better.”
Spotted lanternfly was first discovered in North America in 2014 in Pennsylvania but is believed to have arrived a few years prior on a cargo ship from China. Since that time, spotted lanternfly has so far spread to 11 Eastern and Midwestern states, including Connecticut, Delaware, Indiana, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and West Virginia. This pest is a concern because of its potential to threaten the agricultural industry.
What Is Spotted Lanternfly?
Indigenous to China, India, and Vietnam, spotted lanternflies are planthoppers that feed by piercing and sucking sap from host plants, like all true bugs. The preferred host for the invasive insect is the tree-of- heaven (Ailanthus altissima)—also native to Asia—though the pest is known to associate with more than 170 different fruit, ornamental, and woody trees and plants, including grapes.
Spotted lanternflies lay gray egg clusters on a variety of surfaces, both natural and non-natural, in the fall before the first freeze. After overwintering as eggs, nymphs emerge from late April through early June and go through four instars, or juvenile life stages. First-instar nymphs are black with white spots, eventually donning bright red colors. By late July into November, adults have emerged and will begin mating and laying eggs to restart the life cycle.
The forewings of adult spotted lanternflies are a dull gray to light brown with black spots, but when they take flight, their more colorful red, white, and black hindwings can be seen. The abdomen is bright yellow with thick black bands.
During our visit to Cleveland, Kulhanek and I found first-instar nymphs. As I climbed around pallets of raw material photographing the small bugs, Kulhanek spoke with employees of the factory about the infestation. She pulled a stack of identification cards from her pocket and handed them to the employees we saw walking through the parking area. She even provided a brief impromptu lesson on the importance of training all on-site staff about what to look for and how to ensure they aren’t inadvertently transporting the nymphs on their vehicles or bodies.
After a few phone calls to colleagues and assurance that the Ohio Department of Agriculture was aware of the infestation and had a plan of action for its management, Kulhanek collected a few nymphs in a vial to help aid homeowners, gardeners, and farmers on how to identify the pests during educational programming she conducts throughout the state.
What Makes Them Destructive?
Spotted lanternfly stresses and weakens plants by feeding on the phloem, the part of the vascular system that transports nutrients. As it feeds, the pest also excretes a sugary substance called honeydew, which facilitates the growth of sooty leaf mold. With its fondness for grapevines, entomologists worry about the westward movement of spotted lanternfly. Research published earlier this summer in Nature suggests that, without preventive management, the pest has a high probability of reaching California by 2033, which could devastate the state’s economically important wine industry. Other tree crops susceptible to damage from the pest include almond, apple, cherry, peach, plum, walnut, apricot, maple, black walnut, birch, and willow.
How To Help
If you live in the Eastern and Midwestern regions, keep a sharp eye out for spotted lanternfly adults and newly laid egg masses when you head outside for garden cleanup this fall.
If found, eggs masses—which resemble gray plaster—should be scraped from surfaces into a container and covered with rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer. Adults (and nymphs throughout spring and summer) should be swiftly squashed. In areas with known infestations, be sure to inspect vehicles before exiting parking lots or work areas. Also inspect clothing, outdoor gear, and even pets!
If you spot the bug, be sure to check with your local Extension office, Department of Natural Resources, or Department of Agriculture on what steps to take to report and destroy the pest. Each state has its own protocol for handling new infestations of the invasive insect and guidelines when transporting mate- rials to and from quarantined areas.
Like many invasive insects before it, spotted lanternfly poses a real horticultural threat. But knowing how to identify and report the pest can help appropriate agencies swiftly manage infestations and prevent its westward spread.
NOVEMBER’S PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis)
Moth orchids are among the most rewarding orchids to grow for both beginner and expert alike. Their relative ease of care makes them the perfect leap into the vast world of orchid growing. Compared to most orchid types, plants are relatively undemanding and readily available year round; and at a very affordable price. Blooms are showy and very long-lasting, oftentimes lasting up to four or more months. And unlike most orchids, plants oftentimes rebloom on old flower stalks so long as the stalk remains green. (Therefore, flower stalks should not be pruned back to the plant unless they turn completely brown.) The leaves are large and leathery. Plants are generally not prone to pests and love to spend our humid summers outdoors in a shady location. Doing so encourages vigorous growth and a greater chance of reblooming. Natural bloom time is generally in late winter and early spring.
Care of Phalaenopsis Orchids
Light–The Phalaenopsis orchids grow well near bright windows, with no direct sun light. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In dull, northern winter climates, a full southern exposure may be required. Artificial lighting is acceptable. Two- or four-tube fixtures are suspended six inches to one foot above the foliage, 12 to 16 hours daily. In a greenhouse, heavy shade must be provided to allow 800 to 1,500 f-c of light. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above the leaves. If leaves are hot, reduced light intensity.
Temperature for Phalaenopsis should be above 60°F at night and between 70° and 82 °F during the day. Although higher temperatures result in fast leaf and root growth, lower light and good air movement must accompany. Do not exceed the limit of 95°F. Temperatures below 78°F for three to five weeks with good light are needed for initiating flower spikes. Wide fluctuating temperatures and low humidity can cause bud drop on plants with flower buds ready to open.
Water is especially critical for this orchid. The medium should never be allowed to dry out completely. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry, but not until bone dry. In the heat of the summer in a dry climate, this may be every two to three days, whereas during the winter of a northern climate, it may be every ten or more days. Do not allow water to accumulate in the crown for long to avoid contract decaying diseases. Do not sit pots in standing water for long.
Humidity is recommended to be between 50% and 80% of relative humidity. If RH is lower than 40% in the home, set plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water so that pots never sit in water. Grouping plants together can slightly raise the humidity in the immediate surrounding area. In humid climates, such as in a greenhouse, it is imperative that the humid air is moving to prevent fungal or bacterial diseases to set in.
Fertilizer should be applied on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm when plants are actively growing. Application of a complete fertilizer, such as Jack’s All-purpose or similar, at a rate of half to one teaspoon per one gallon of good quality water at each watering. Reduce this frequency to every other or third watering when it is cool (from November thru February). Make sure that an ample amount of water is applied to allow some excess water to drain from each pot. Water with a high salt concentration should be avoided.
Potting is best done in late spring or early summer after blooming has completed. Phalaenopsis plants must be potted in quick draining mixes, such as fir bark, tree fern fiber, chunky sphagnum peat, charcoal, perlite, or combinations of these. Root rot will occur if plants are allowed to sit in an old, soggy medium. Your young plants should grow fast enough to need repotting yearly and should be potted in a finer grade medium to allow good root contact. Mature plants are potted in a coarser medium may stay in the same pots for years, provided that medium is changed when needed. To repot, remove all old medium from the roots, trim off rotted roots, and spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in a pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working through the roots, so that the junction of the upper roots and the stem is slightly below the medium. Be careful not to leave large air pockets in pots. Use a stick to push the medium in between the roots. Keep plants in shade and wait for one to three days before watering.
AROUND TOWN:
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter.
40th Annual Herb Fair @ Olbrich Botanical Gardens
Saturday, November 5, 9:00-3:00
This Year’s Theme: Easy Herbs for Everyone
The Herb Fair annually sponsored by the Madison Herb Society, reaches out to the public through lectures and demonstrations and provides an outlet for members to expand their knowledge and abilities to use herbs.
Hear about herbs from speakers and vendors. Purchase herbal products. Make & take projects, demonstrations, and a Q & A station. Free! Sponsored by the Madison Herb Society. Visit www.madisonherbsociety.org. for a detailed schedule of the day’s events.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave., Madison
608/246-4550 or www.olbrich.org for details.
All About Owls @ the Arboretum
Saturday, November 5, 1:00 pm – 3:00 pm
Class
Learn about Wisconsin’s twelve owl species, focusing on the three that nest in Madison, and how to identify these elusive birds of prey. Habitat, calls, courtship, hunting, and eating will be discussed. Instructor: Sylvia Marek, Arboretum naturalist. Indoor class. Fee: $20. Register by November 1 @https://arboretum.wisc.edu/classes/all-about-owls-3/. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Full Moon Night Walk @ the Arboretum
Saturday, November 5, 7:00 pm – 8:30 pm
Walk
Let your eyes adjust to the moonlight, listen to the night sounds, and experience the darkness on this naturalist-led Arboretum walk. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come seasonally prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Nature Hike in the Grady Tract @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 13, 1:00 pm – 3:00 pm
Walk
Learn about the land, plants, animals, fungi, phenology, and ecology. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come seasonally prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Meet at Grady Tract parking lot, southeast corner of Seminole Hwy. and W. Beltline Frontage Rd.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Loving Nature @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 13, 1:00 pm – 3:00 pm
Family Nature Program
This program is a fun, fascinating way for families with children elementary age and younger to explore the natural world. Nature walk: 1–2 p.m., nature activities: 2–3 p.m. Adults must attend. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come seasonally prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Nature Hike @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 20, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Walk
Learn about the land, plants, animals, fungi, phenology, and ecology. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come seasonally prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Rotary Botanical Gardens’ Holiday Light Show
November 25-27, December 1-4, 8-11, 15-23 and December 26-30
This year’s dazzling after-dark walk on the Gardens’ paths features more than ONE MILLION lights, themed light displays and animations for a family-friendly outdoor activity.
Doors open 4:30 pm. Last ticket sold 8:30 pm.
Details and ticket information will appear on our website in the weeks ahead.
Rotary Botanical Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr., Janesville, WI
608/752-3885 or www.rotarybotanicalgardens.org/
Garden Stroll @ the Arboretum
Sunday, November 27, 1:00 pm – 2:00 pm
Walk
This gently paced stroll through the gardens is well-suited for a multi-generational outing. Learn about plants, animals, and fungi; phenology; and ecology. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Routes are wheelchair accessible when weather allows. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Nature Hike @ the Arboretum
Sunday, December 4, 1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Walk
Learn about the land, plants, animals, fungi, phenology, and ecology. Geared for adults, these longer walks may cover some sloping terrain. Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes and come seasonally prepared for weather and insects. Walks take place rain or shine, except in unsafe weather. Free, no registration required. Meet at the Visitor Center.
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888 or arboretum.wisc.edu
Dane County Farmer’s Market
Saturdays through November 12, 6:15-1:45
On the Capitol Square
Wednesdays, April 20 thru November 2, 8:30-1:45
In the 200 block of Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.
For details visit www.dcfm.org
Dane County Holiday Farmer’s Market
Saturdays, November 19, December 3 and December 17, 7:30-noon
Monona Terrace
The Holiday Dane County Farmer’s Market is located in the majestic Monona Terrace. This bustling market features more than 60 vendors and is your one-stop shop for all of your local food needs for the holidays!
For details visit www.dcfm.org
NOVEMBER IN THE GARDEN-–A checklist of things to do this month.
___Visit Olbrich, Rotary or Allen Centennial Gardens and note plants of fall interest for
spring planting and best selection.
___Put up all bird feeders and fill daily as needed. Begin feeding raw suet.
___Make water available to the birds. Begin using a de-icer as needed.
___Dig new beds now! It’s easier now than in spring when super-busy.
___Continue planting spring bulbs till the ground freezes.
___Plant bulbs for forcing and put in a cool location for 10-12 weeks.
___Stop feeding houseplants and cut back on watering.
___Continue planting deciduous shrubs and trees until the ground freezes.
___Clean up stalks and leaves of annuals and vegetables, preventing viruses and pests
for next year’s garden.
___Continue harvesting brussels sprouts, kale, greens and root crops.
___Cut perennials back to 4-6″, leaving those for winter interest.
___Make notes in your garden journal for changes, improvements, etc.
___Mow the lawn at shortest setting for last mowing of the season.
___Ready lawnmower and tiller for winter. Prep the snowblower.
___Keep gutters clear of leaves and debris.
___Clean empty pots and containers for winter storage.
___Purchase marsh hay and rose protection. Wait till the ground freezes to apply.
___Wrap trunks of susceptible trees to protect from rodents.
___Visit Klein’s—The poinsettias are just about ready. Look for end of the season savings on all remaining spring bulbs.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.comor 800/274-7333
For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.comor 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998
For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
IN NOVEMBER:
—Our employees prep the store inside and out for the upcoming holidays.
—Wreaths, roping and pine boughs arrive mid-month from northern Wisconsin.
—Most plant material and supplies have been ordered for the 2023 growing season. We order early to ensure you best selection in spring.
PERMANENT FEATURES–
KLEIN’S MONTHLY NEWSLETTER
Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page. We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.
THE MAD GARDENER–“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.
We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
TO WRITE A REVIEW OF KLEIN’S, PLEASE LINK TO
FACEBOOK
Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.
TWITTER
Join Klein’s on Twitterwhere we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.
SENIOR CITIZEN DISCOUNT
We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.
RECYCLING POTS & TRAYS
Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/recycling/plastic.cfm
DELIVERY INFO
Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.
Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.
A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.
We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.
Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.
There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.
Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.
We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.
Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.
During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.
It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.
DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.
Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661
Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com
Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com
Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com
Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com
RELATED RESOURCES AND WEB SITES
University of Wisconsin Extension
1 Fen Oak Ct. #138
Madison, WI 53718
608/224-3700
Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic
Dept. of Plant Pathology
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
Insect Diagnostic Lab
240 Russell Labs
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab
8452 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-4364
American Horticultural Society
Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)
Invasive Species
Community Groundworks
3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4
Madison, WI 53704
608/240-0409
Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)
Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program
Department of Horticulture
1575 Linden Drive
University of Wisconsin – Madison
Madison, WI 53706
608/265-4504
The Wisconsin Gardener
Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
608/262-8406
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/246-4550
Rotary Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr.
Janesville, WI 53545
608/752-3885
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888
University of Wisconsin-West Madison
Agricultural Research Center
8502 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-2257
PLANTS POISONOUS TO CHILDREN:
Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.
•Bird of paradise
•Bull nettle
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Crocus
•Daffodil
•Deadly nightshade
•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
•Foxglove
•Glory lily
•Hemlock
•Holly berry
•Indian tobacco
•Iris
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Lily of the valley
•Marijuana
•Mescal bean
•Mexicantes
•Mistletoe
•Morning glory
•Mountain laurel
•Night-blooming jasmine
•Nutmeg
•Oleander
•Philodendron
•Poison ivy
•Poison sumac
•Pokeweed
•Poppy
•Potato
•Privet
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Water hemlock
•Wisteria
PLANTS POISONOUS TO PETS:
Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/
•Aconite
•Apple
•Arrowgrasses
•Autumn Crocus
•Azaleas
•Baneberry
•Bird-of-Paradise
•Black locust
•Bloodroot
•Box
•Buckeye
•Buttercup
•Caladium
•Carolina jessamine
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Chockcherries
•Christmas berry
•Christmas Rose
•Common privet
•Corn cockle
•Cowbane
•Cow cockle
•Cowsliprb
•Daffodil
•Daphne
•Day lily
•Delphinium (Larkspur)
•Dumbcane
•Dutchman’s breeches
•Easter lily
•Elderberry
•Elephant’s ear
•English Ivy
•European Bittersweet
•Field peppergrass
•Foxglove
•Holly
•Horsechestnut
•Horse nettle
•Hyacinth
•Iris
•Jack-in-the-pulpit
•Jerusalem Cherry
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Laurels
•Lily of the valley
•Lupines
•Mayapple
•Milk vetch
•Mistletoe
•Monkshood
•Morning glory
•Mustards
•Narcissus
•Nicotiana
•Nightshade
•Oaks
•Oleander
•Philodendrons
•Pokeweed
•Poinsettia
•Poison hemlock
•Potato
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Rosary pea
•Sago palm
•Skunk cabbage
•Smartweeds
•Snow-on-the-mountain
•Sorghum
•Star of Bethlehem
•Wild black cherry
•Wild radish
•Wisteria
•Yellow jessamine
•Yew