‘THE SAGE’-Klein’s Online Newsletter—MARCH 2021
Klein’s Floral & Greenhouses
608/244-5661 or info@kleinsfloral.com
THIS MONTH’S HIGHLIGHTS:
Our ‘Mad Gardener’ and ‘Houseplant Help‘ Are Ready for Your Questions
Ever Thought about Working at a Garden Center?
Tips To Make Cut Flowers Last Longer
Seed Shortages in 2021
Olbrich Botanical Gardens: A History
Klein’s Favorite Seed, Bulb & Plant Sources
You Asked about an Unhappy Bleeding Heart
Plant of the Month: Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis)
Klein’s Favorite Hominy Recipes
Product Spotlight: Orchid Fertilizers @ Klein’s
Notes from Rick’s Garden Journal—From February 2021
—For the Humidity They Crave…
—The Starling: One of Our Least Loved European Imports
—An Intro to Lunar Agriculture
March in the Garden: A Planner
Gardening Events Around Town
Join Us on Twitter
Follow Us on Facebook
EVER THOUGHT ABOUT WORKING AT A GARDEN CENTER?
Now is the time to stop in and ask for an application or fill one out at Employee Application. We’re primarily looking for seasonal, part-time retail help. Responsibilities include customer service, stocking, etc. Retail experience and computer skills are a plus. Benefits include our generous discount and a hands-on opportunity in a horticultural setting. Hours can be flexible. If possible, we’re seeking people with 20 or more hours availability per week. Some weekend and evening shifts are expected. Seasonal positions usually begin during March and/or early April and run into early June.
In addition, we are currently seeking people to work primarily in our perennial and shrub area. These positions will run from about mid-April into the late summer and fall as needed. We’re looking for those who are available about 24 hours/week; more in the spring and less as the summer progresses. Some weekend and evening shifts are expected. A basic knowledge of our area’s most popular perennials and shrubs is helpful. Please call the store @ 608-244-5661 or stop by and ask for Rick if you are interested in this position.
KLEIN’S ‘HOUSEPLANT HELP’
You can contact Klein’s in-house indoor plant experts by emailing to Houseplant Help for sound information and advice regarding indoor tropicals, succulents, blooming plants and so much more.
For many years, customers’ indoor plant questions have been directed to Klein’s Mad Gardener (see below). Now you have the opportunity to contact our indoor plant experts directly. We’ve posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
We reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
THE MAD GARDENER
“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask any of your gardening questions by e-mailing them to us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. We’ve also posted a link on our home page and in our contacts for your convenience. Your question might then appear in the “You Asked” feature of our monthly newsletter. If your question is the one selected for our monthly newsletter, you’ll receive a small gift from us at Klein’s.
Sorry, we can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
MARCH STORE HOURS:
Monday thru Friday : 9:00-6:00
Saturday: 9:00-5:00
Sunday: 10:00-4:00
CALENDAR OF EVENTS:
March 8–International Women’s Day
March 14–Daylight Saving Time Begins
March 17–St. Patrick’s Day. From shamrocks to green carnations–we have it!
March 20–First Day of Spring!!!! It’s still too early to plant, but you’ll notice spring bulbs peeking through the cold soil, trees buds bulging and maybe even that first robin. Keep in mind that Madison’s average last frost date is May 10 so there’s usually still lots of cold and snow to come.
March 27—Passover Begins
March 28—Palm Sunday
March 28–Full Moon
April 1–April Fool’s Day
April 2—Good Friday
April 4—Easter Sunday
‘THE FLOWER SHOPPE’:
You’ve just received a lovely bouquet of fresh flowers for your birthday, as a thank you, a new birth or maybe just because. Inherently some flowers last longer than others. Long-stemmed roses, on the one hand, might last only a few days, whereas carnations can sometimes last up to two weeks.
CARE TIPS FOR SPECIFIC CUT FLOWERS:
CALLA LILIES
The picture of elegance, this unique form of the flower can bloom in a standard or miniature size, as well as, a rich variety of colors. Calla Lily’s should be handled delicately as the bloom tends to bruise easily. Also, once this bloom is cut, it will no longer unfold, therefore, the best and more costly Calla Lily is one that is at the peak of its blossoming. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: White, Yellow, Plum, Lavender, Pink, Green, Peach, and Orange.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS
Chrysanthemums bloom in many forms, including: daisy-like, pompons, or buttons. Blossoming in a wide array of colors and sizes, these flowers are popular for their long life span and ability to easily lend their textures and beauty to a mixed bouquet, yet make an exceptional bouquet on their own. Average life span: 7-8 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Green, Yellow, Lavender, also, rich Fall colors including Burgundy, Bronze and Butterscotch, as well as, plenty of bicolored varieties.
DAFFODILS
Daffodils are an extremely popular and well-loved flower but they release a substance harmful to other flowers. Because of this they are best kept to themselves when used in arrangements. If they are included in a mixed bouquet, separate the daffodils and soak separately overnight and then introduce them back into your arrangement. Average life span: 5 days. Seasonality: December — April. Color Availability: Yellow, White.
GERBERA DAISIES
Available in a bright variety of hues, these beautiful and cheerful flowers are known to be very heavy water drinkers with sensitivity to fluoride. With this in mind you may want to use a purified water source for your bouquet. Your bouquet may arrive with a straw around each stem. It is best to leave this straw on while for the first 4-5 hours while initially hydrating to create a straighter stem. Average life span: 5 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Red, Yellow, Orange, Pink, Peach, Fuchsia and some bicolored varieties.
HYDRANGEAS
Hydrangeas are known for their beautiful cloud-like blooms and appeal in both mixed bouquets and on their own. They are quite emotional though, and need constant hydration, as the blooms will immediately wilt when without a water supply. They are usually delivered with a water pack around the bottom of the stem to help with hydration during shipping, but will need to be thoroughly hydrated as soon as they arrive. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: White, Light Blue, Violet, Pink.
IRISES
Irises come in many forms, shapes, colors and sizes, though the most popular colors are a deep purple or yellow. The iris usually arrives in bud stage, but after 1-2 days of hydration the bloom will unfurl and open gracefully creating a grand bouquet fit for royalty. Average life span: 6 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – Blue, Yellow, White, Pink, Purple, Brown, Red, and Black.
GLADIOLUS
Most known for their sword-like shape and wide array of color, gladioli create a dramatic bouquet of height and beauty. Average life span: 7-8 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Red, Orange, Pink, Fuchsia, and Lavender.
LILIES
These fragrant flowers are a symbol of purity and grace accentuated with each flower-filled stem. There are three main types of lilies: Asiatic, Oriental or LA Hybrids. Asiatic Lilies tend to have a smaller bloom, but come in a vast array of colors. Oriental Lilies have a large bloom and a stronger fragrance and tend to last longer than the other varieties. LA Hybrid Lilies have a medium sized bloom and tend to last a little longer than an Asiatic Lily. Most lilies arrive with 3-5 blooms per stem, making them a dramatic and impressive bouquet. As the blooms open, it is best to remove the pollen from anthers when the blooms open with a tissue and discard as it can stain clothing. In the event the pollen does get on any fabric try to remove it with cellophane tape, never with water, which would set the stain. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – White, Pink, Yellow, Orange, Burgundy, and plenty of bicolored varieties.
ORCHIDS
These blooms bring an exotic elegance to any bouquet with numerous flowers bursting from each stem. Known for their longevity, orchids are a beautiful way to express your sentiments. Average life span: 7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Purple, White, Pink, Fuchsia, Orange, Jade, and Burgundy.
PERUVIAN LILIES (ALSTROEMARIA)
These bright multicolored flowers contribute to a lush and full bouquet. They are known for their long-lasting blooms, but they tend to dehydrate easily. If wilting, check the water level and, once hydration levels are maintained, they will perk up within the next 8-12 hours. Average life span: 7-8 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – Pink, Purple, White, Yellow, Red, and plenty of bicolored varieties.
ROSES
Roses are possibly the most recognizable and beloved flowers most known for their soft scent and vast array of colors and varieties. These flowers may arrive with guard petals surrounding the outside of the bloom. These petals were left on to protect the bloom during shipment and should be removed to increase the beauty of your bouquet. Also, if a rose wilts and becomes limp, remove it from the vase and re-cut the stem under water. Place the flower into warm water with dissolved flower food until the bloom becomes firm. The flower can then be included once again within the bouquet. Remember, roses are thirsty flowers. Check the vase daily to replenish absorbed water. Average life span: 7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Red, White, Pink, Fuchsia, Lavender, Jade, Cream, Peach, Yellow, Orange, Burgundy, and plenty of bicolored varieties.
SUNFLOWERS
A favorite flower for many, the sunflower brings a cheerful disposition to any bouquet. Sunflowers tend to be a thirsty flower, so it is best to be vigilant of the water level in your vase to insure a longer life for you bouquet. Average life span: 5-7 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Yellow with brown center and some dyed varieties.
TULIPS
Tulips are one of the most popular flowers of all time and come in variety of colors, heights, and flower shapes. Be aware that these flowers can grow almost an inch daily even when cut and naturally bend towards the light. Your tulip bouquet may have a natural curve to the stems, leaning gracefully off the lip of the vase. When your tulips first arrive it is best to keep them in the protective wrap while hydrating for the first 4-5 hours to create a straighter stem. Average life span: 5 days. Seasonality: Year-round. Color Availability: Wide range – Red, White, Pink, Fuchsia, Purple, Cream, Orange, Peach, Yellow and plenty of bicolored varieties.
Source: www.ftd.com.
YOU ASKED. . .
We have a bleeding heart plant that we dug up in the fall in order to preserve it for our son who wants to take it since we are moving. We put the clump in the garage in a plastic bag and milk crate. I noticed a couple days ago that bleeding heart is growing. My question for you is: What now? Linda
Hi Linda,
If possible, the temperature has to be lowered somehow to stop the growing and buy you more time to get it into the ground asap in April. It can be planted as soon as the ground thaws….but that may take a while this year. You don’t want to pot it up and move it into the house where it’ll be even warmer.
Is your garage heated? Perhaps lower the temp a bit. If unheated, but attached, move it to an outer wall and away from the house wall where the temperature is lower. Do you have a spare refrigerator in the basement? Perhaps move it there. Again….you’re just needing to buy 6-8 weeks of time.
Thanks for your question,
DID YOU KNOW. . .
. . . that in Olbrich Botanical Gardens, Madison is lucky to have one of the most renowned public gardens in North America.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens was chosen among public gardens in North America to receive the 2005 Award for Garden Excellence from the American Association of Botanic Gardens and Arboreta (AABGA). The award is given to one public garden each year which best exemplifies the highest standards of horticultural practices and has shown a commitment to supporting and demonstrating the best gardening practices. Other recipients include; The Chicago Botanic Gardens, The Smithsonian Gardens and the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center, to name a few.
Olbrich Botanical Gardens’ History
The beautiful gardens and conservatory buildings that now comprise the Olbrich Botanical Gardens are the result of the collective work of thousands of people who have labored unstintingly for more than fifty years to make them a reality. But neither the gardens nor the larger park that surrounds them would exist today if it had not been for the vision, the energy and the generosity of just one man, Madison attorney Michael B. Olbrich.
“No greater mistake can be made than the belief that taste and esthetic sense is a monopoly of the merely well-to-do or purely a product of formal schooling. The park proposed is intended primarily to bring back into the life of the worker confronted by the dismal industrial tangle, whose forces we all so little comprehend, something of the grace and beauty that nature intended us all to share. For this park has not a passive, but an active function. It is not to stand aloof, a treasure of the city, beautiful, still, reserved. This park above all others, with a warmth and strength of love – of love of all the working world – should hold out its arms, should invite them to itself, until its naturalness and beauty enter into their lives.”
-Michael B. Olbrich, 1921
From a speech proposing a garden site on Starkweather Creek near Lake Monona
Acquiring the Land
Olbrich was especially interested in the preservation of direct public access to Madison’s lakeshores and to Lake Monona in particular. This emphasis on Lake Monona arose out of Olbrich’s concern that the residential areas on Madison’s east side that were being developed adjacent to the factories that had been established along Williamson Street and Atwood Avenue were lacking in adequate park facilities. Olbrich saw that new residential developments were moving inexorably towards the lakeshore and he realized that only prompt action would save the still vacant shoreline at the east end of Lake Monona.
In 1916, Olbrich’s attention focused on what was then a badly polluted marshland that bordered both sides of Starkweather Creek at the east end of Lake Monona. In its place he envisioned a sweeping expanse of park curving along the lake shore, a park whose crowning feature would be a municipal flower garden set in its midst. This park would then be linked to a parkway that would follow the north shore of the lake all the way to the recently completed parkway that bordered both sides of the Yahara River.
Single-handedly, Olbrich set about acquiring this property, using his own money and concentrating first on the area bordering Starkweather Creek. His first purchase gave him control of almost 2700 feet of shoreline, which he then offered to the city at cost providing that the new park was named “La Follette Park.” This condition proved unacceptable to many due to La Follette’s opposition to World War I so Olbrich kept the land, adding 800 more feet to the total in the next three years and bringing his personal commitment to almost $40,000. In 1919, after La Follette requested that his name not be used, Olbrich repeated his previous offer to the city. This time, support for Olbrich’s proposal was widespread. Olin and the Park and Pleasure Drive Association brought in noted Chicago landscape architect O. C. Simonds to draw up a development plan for the new park. Olbrich then led two successful community-wide fund-raising drives to secure additional parcels of land and on July 22, 1921, the city took title to its new park.
In 1922 Olbrich formed the Madison Parks Foundation to raise the money necessary to complete the new park and to acquire the shoreline between it and the Yahara River parkway. By 1928 both goals had been achieved and Olbrich then turned the attention of the foundation to the acquisition of the first portions of the University of Wisconsin Arboretum on the shore of Lake Wingra. When Olbrich died unexpectedly in 1929, the city council responded by naming the new park at Lake Monona’s east end Olbrich Park in his honor and in recognition of the remarkable legacy he had left to his adopted city.
Improving the Property
Without a doubt, the new park had required something of a visionary to see its potential when Olbrich first began to assemble it in 1916. The character of the site, its size and even its shape was much different than what we see today. In that day the shoreline of Lake Monona came to within one hundred feet of Atwood Avenue opposite today’s Botanical Gardens and most of the land within the park boundaries was unusable and unappreciated marsh that was seriously polluted by the effluents discharged by the adjacent United States Sugar Company’s beet processing plant.
During Olbrich’s lifetime, the only part of the park that was truly usable was the playground area that is still located just to the west of today’s Botanical Gardens. The remaining land awaited implementation of O.C. Simond’s 1920 development plan, but no action was taken on this major project until 1931, when the city took over the parks system created by Olin and his Association and promoted James G. Marshall to be the head of the new Parks Department.
Marshall’s first task was to coordinate the large work crews that were being organized by the city’s Outdoor Relief Committee; the effect of these crews on Olbrich Park was immediate. Atwood Avenue’s path through the park was straightened and the old roadway was torn up. The debris then became part of the fill that the city deposited in its newly designated municipal dumping ground, located in the marshy area east of Starkweather Creek between Atwood Avenue and the railroad tracks. Marshall then screened this area with trees and set his crews to work improving the existing playground area and the stretch of land along the lakeshore. By 1933, these projects were mostly completed and they were complemented by the tree and flower planting activities of neighborhood organizations like the East Side Business Men’s Association and the Madison Garden Club.
By late 1935, enough work had been done on the park to make the comprehensive planning of its future both feasible and necessary. Consequently, Marshall oversaw the preparation of the first master plan for the development of the park. This plan was especially notable for including the first preliminary plan for what would eventually become today’s Botanical Gardens. The proposed gardens, though quite different in design from what was actually built, were intended from the first to be located where the gardens are today. Unfortunately, this 11.5 acre site was still largely a peat bog and marshland in 1935, and its development lay far in the future.
The ensuing years saw the gradual filling in of all the marshy areas within the park’s boundaries. The east end of Lake Monona and Starkweather Creek were both dredged and the sandy fill that resulted was then used to extend the shoreline of the park further out into the lake and to fill in low-lying areas such as the gardens site.
By 1950, the process of turning marshland into parkland was largely complete and most of Olbrich’s dream of providing the east side with recreation space and lake access was a reality. All that remained was to crown this work with the flower gardens that Olbrich had hoped might one day grace the site.
Establishing the Gardens and the Olbrich Botanical Society
The first work towards establishing the gardens began in 1952 when the Olin Trust Fund gave the Madison Parks Commission $22,688 to begin development. This resulted in the twin shelter buildings that are still extant today and in the large formal space behind them that was originally the Rose Mall. Another grant from the Olin Fund in 1957 gave the gardens its first greenhouse, a structure that was soon expanded to serve as an informal center for area gardeners.
By the early 1960s, however, it was realized that a real garden center building was necessary in order to fully realize the garden’s potential. This led to the formation in 1962 of the Garden Center Club, a volunteer group whose members were to work ceaselessly over the next decade to establish such a center. In the meantime, the gardens continued to grow in size and in beauty. More greenhouses were erected and in 1965 the Olin Fund made possible the construction of the John M. Olin Fountain. In 1971 the Club’s efforts were beginning to pay off and Madison architect Stuart Gallaher was commissioned to design a new garden center building. A major fund-raising effort finally made this elegant building a reality and it was dedicated in 1978 at a cost of $380,000.
The creation of the new Center was accompanied by the establishment of the Olbrich Botanical Society in 1979, a non-profit organization whose members support the Gardens’ fund-raising and educational activities. The Society promptly redoubled efforts to expand the Gardens themselves. This resulted in the new Rose Garden, Perennial Garden, Herb Garden, All-America Garden, and Rock Garden. In 2017, over 325,000 persons visited the Gardens, which also hosted hundreds of meetings, concerts, classes, and events.
Recently, the Gardens underwent a major addition to facilities with the construction of the first dedicated education space in Olbrich’s history, along with the construction of an all-new production greenhouse.
Source: www.olbrich.org
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT—Each month we spotlight some product that we already carry or one that we’ve taken note of and plan to carry in the near future. Likewise, if you would like to see Klein’s to carry a product that we don’t currently, please let us know. Our goal is to be responsive to the marketplace and to our loyal clientele. If a product fits into our profile, we will make every effort to get it into our store. In addition, we may be able to special order an item for you, whether plant or hard good, given enough time.
Orchid Fertilizers @ Klein’s
Now that the days are substantially longer than they were two months ago, it’s time to begin fertilizing those precious orchids. Though we’re all somewhat familiar with moth orchids (see our Plant of the Month below), there are hundreds of different orchids available to enthusiasts today; and all with different needs. It’s important to know what type of orchid you have and learn about its individual needs for greatest success. Epiphytic orchids, for example, oftentimes have far different requirements than their terrestrial counterparts.
About Our Orchid Fertilizer Choices:
Jack’s Classic Orchid Special 30-10-10
Feeds through both roots and leaves. Orchids need this high nitrogen and special micronutrient formula when potted in porous fibers, fir bark and rock. This formula emphasizes the vegetative growth stage (leaves), and will assure that the plant’s requirements for increased nitrogen will be satisfied as new leaves develop and mature.
Jack’s Classic Orchid Liquid 7-5-6
Orchid 7-5-6 provides higher nitrogen promotes excellent leaf growth. Switch to 3-9-6 (pink cap) when flower spikes appear, and switch back when finished blooming.
Jack’s Classic Orchid Bloom Booster 3-9-6
Orchid Bloom Booster provides lower nitrogen & higher potassium. Encourages bud set and promotes blooming. Switch to 7-5-6 (green cap) when flower spikes fade, switch back when spikes reappear.
Dyna-Gro Orchid-Pro™
A well-balanced, professional formulation containing all essential macro and micro nutrients for use on all types of orchids. It provides the right balance of nutrients for healthy growth and flowering. Urea free, Orchid Pro™ may be used for orchid growth in both indoor and outdoor settings as well as with direct or indirect lighting.
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN JOURNAL–Tips and Observations from My Own Garden by Rick Halbach
ENTRY: FEBRUARY 14, 2021 (For the Humidity They Crave…)
It’s been years since we’ve had a winter like this one! I just heard on the news that we haven’t had this much snow on the ground at one time since 2010! In addition, we’re in the middle of more than two weeks of below zero nights with highs barely reaching zero some days. Because of these extremely cold nights, I’ve had to move many tender plants away from the window sills and into the rooms’ interiors. And with these cold temperatures comes very low humidity levels and it’s beginning to show on some of my tropicals. Leaf tips are browning up and becoming crispy. I know this is only temporary and once the days warm up and lengthen, the plants will rebound quickly with new growth. And because I have a lot of houseplants and do a lot of cooking, the humidity level in my house isn’t as low as it could be.
That said, there are other ways one can give indoor plants the extra humidity they crave during these winter months:
Group Plants
If you group your plants together, they will help each other. Each plant gives off moisture to the atmosphere, increasing the relative humidity around them.
Use Pebble Trays
Select a shallow non-rusting or plastic tray and fill it with pebbles or pea gravel. Add water to just below the surface of the pebbles so the soil in the pots won’t get too wet. Be sure to keep the water at this level; as it evaporates it will add moisture to the air.
Mist Plants Daily
A fine mist of water around your plants is refreshing and provides some short term relief from dry air. A simple plastic spray bottle will do. Be sure to mist early so plants are dry by evening. Use room temperature water if possible.
Buy a Humidifier
If you have a large number of plants, you might consider a humidifier. There are many kinds available from small portable plastic models to units that attach to the heating system to humidify the whole house as it is heated. It is important to buy a unit that shuts off once the humidity as reached desirable levels.
Grandma’s Way
You can always put a pan of water below a hot air register or on a radiator as grandma used to do. As long as there is water in the container, the dry air will pick up moisture as it evaporates.
Source: Western Publishing
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ENTRY: FEBRUARY 22, 2021 (The Starling: One of Our Least Loved European Imports)
Given all of the snow these past few weeks, activity at my bird feeders is at a frenzy to say the least. Birds from many species battle for their position on the feeder perches. Few birds are more aggressive and noisy than the starlings that seem to visit in huge flocks to quickly empty some of the feeders before moving on. Their favorite food at my feeders seems to be the shelled peanuts I have out to attract woodpeckers, nuthatches and blue jays.
Often regarded as a pest, the starling (Sturnus vulgaris) wins grudging admiration for its adaptability, toughness, and seeming intelligence. Brought to North America in 1890 (and arriving in Madison in 1928), it has spread to occupy most of the continent, and is now abundant in many areas. Sociable at most seasons, Starlings may gather in immense flocks in fall and winter. When the flocks break up for the breeding season, males reveal a skill for mimicry, interrupting their wheezing and sputtering songs with perfect imitations of other birds.
Adult starlings are about the size of a chunky robin. They have glossy black plumage with an iridescent green/purple sheen, a short, squared tail (vs. the long tail of a grackle) and a triangular shape in flight, black eyes (Common Blackbirds have a yellow eye ring), and a long pointy, bill (unlike North American blackbirds) that is yellow during breeding season (January to June) and dark at other times. Legs are pinkish-red. It is hard to tell sexes apart. They waddle (vs. hop). Their flight is direct and fast, unlike the rising and falling flight of many blackbirds.
Starlings are bold and aggressive scavengers of almost anything, including fruit (especially strawberries, blueberries, grapes, tomatoes, peaches, apples, and cherries), grains (e.g., livestock feed), certain seeds, and insects, worms, grubs, millipedes and spiders, and occasionally lizards, frogs and snails. Unlike house sparrows, 44-97% of their diet is animal matter, depending on the time of year. They are usually seen foraging on open mowed lawns, pastures etc. Starlings seem to have a decent sense of smell – at least they are attracted to peanut butter used in suet.
Starlings are gregarious and will breed in close proximity to other pairs. They are usually monogamous. Fights over breeding sites can result in death. The birds grip each other with their feet while pecking. Nest site fidelity is fairly high, with about one third of returning females coming back to nest in the same box in subsequent years.
Starlings have undoubtedly had a negative impact on some native hole-nesting birds, such as bluebirds and red-headed woodpeckers, competing with them for nesting sites.
The male establishes a territory and chooses the nest site, singing to attract a mate. When a female arrives, the male perches next to nest site and sings, often waving his wings. The male sometimes has more than one mate. The nest site is in any kind of cavity; usually in natural hollow or woodpecker hole in tree, in birdhouse, or sometimes in holes or crevices in buildings or other odd spots.
Interesting facts about starlings:
—Both males and females can mimic human speech. (Some people keep starlings as pets). Some starlings also imitate the song of many other birds like the Eastern Wood-Pewee, Meadowlark, Northern Bobwhite and House Sparrow, along with Blue Jays, Red-Tailed Hawks and Cedar Waxwings. Vocalizations inside the nestbox during nest building can be lengthy and quite varied.
—An estimated 1/3 to 1/2 of returning females nest in the same box or area in consecutive years. That is why it’s important not to let them nest in the first place.
—A starling couple can build a nest in 1-3 days. Both sexes incubate.
—A migrating flock can number 100,000 birds. They roost communally in flocks that may contain as many as a million birds.
—Each year, starlings cause an estimated $800 million in damages to agricultural crops.
—About 15-33% of first broods are parasitized (via egg dumping) by other starlings.
—Starlings have an unusual bill that springs open to grip prey or pry plants apart.
—Starlings only molt once a year (after breeding) but the spots that show up in the winter wear off by the spring, making them look glossy black.
—In starlings, the length of the intestinal tract actually varies depending on the season. It is shorter in the summertime (when birds are mainly eating protein-rich) insect foods and larger in wintertime when they are mainly eating seeds.
Sources: www.sialis.org and www.audubon.org
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ENTRY: FEBRUARY 27, 2021 (An Intro to Lunar Agriculture)
We’ll be having a full moon this evening and with each full moon I can’t help but think about my grandmother and her fascination lunar cycles and how they affected growing crops in the fields, vegetables in the garden and even milk production by the cows in the barn.
Old-time gardeners have long known that there seems to be a connection between the phases of the moon and success in the garden. There may be no concrete evidence, but there seems to be a certain amount of logic to that observation. The effect of the moon on the earth and all of its creatures is undeniable and there are plenty of reasonable examples to support this claim. It’s been said there are more incidents of certain types of crime during certain phases of the moon and psychologists have noted connections between the lunar cycle and human behavior.
The moon’s effect on plants is equally fascinating. My grandmother strongly believed that planting any crop in the wrong phase of the moon produced weak plants or plants that bolted or went to seed too quickly. She said the effects are most noticeable with root vegetables like radishes, carrots and potatoes and members of the cabbage family.
Lunar agriculture (or Moon Gardening) works because of the gravitational pull of the moon. The sun exerts its own magnetic force on earth, but because the moon is closer, its pull has greater affect. We know that the moon’s gravity causes the tides we experience daily. These same forces are at work in the soil, pulling water to the surface which makes it more available to plant. In a ten year long study, Dr. Frank Brown of Northwestern University found that plants absorb more water at the full moon, the phase at which the moon exerts its strongest pull. Even though Dr. Brown’s plants were housed in a laboratory and not under direct moonlight, he found that they were still strongly influenced by the moon.
Gardening author John Jeaves goes further, dividing the influence of the moon according to its waxing and waning phases. He reports in his book How to Grow More Vegetables that when the moon is waxing its increasing light stimulates leaf growth. When the moon begins to wane, he recorded that leaf growth slowed while root growth was stimulated. For practical application, plant leafy vegetables, annuals and those plants whose greatest value is above ground between the new moon and full moon. For those plants whose value is underground, such as potatoes, herbal rhizomes, and bulbs during the waning half of the lunar cycle.
Modern research is validating what humans have known innately for thousands of years. For those who live close to nature, plant gardens every year or tend acres of farmland, the validation is unimportant. What is important is that when plants are sown in the correct moon phase, the plants grow quickly and more heartily and harvests are more abundant. Put simply, lunar agriculture works – try it and see!
Planting by the Moon’s Phases:
New Moon
Characteristics of the Phase: The gravitational pull of the moon is increased during the New Moon phase, causing water to be pulled upward through the soil. This allows the plant to draw water easily through the roots and causes newly planted seeds to swell with water and burst open. As the moon increases in light, it draws the plant upward, enhancing growth.
What to Plant:
* Above ground crops that produce their seeds and fruits on the outside.
* Leafy vegetables with shallow root systems, annual flowers and herbs.
Specific Plants: Annual flowers, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, chard, cucumbers, grains, herbs, lettuce, spinach.
Garden Chores:
* Mow lawns and prune to promote growth
* Sow new gardens or beds
* Transplant those plants that need available water to help their root systems develop
First Quarter
Characteristics of the Phase: The gravitational pull of the moon decreases during this phase because the moon lies at a 90 degree angle to the sun. This phase promotes strong leaf growth and is a good time for planting, especially as the moon moves closer to the full phase.
What to Plant: Annuals that produce above ground, but set seed inside a pod or fruit
Specific Plants: Beans, melons, peas, peppers, squash, tomatoes
Garden Chores:
* Mow lawns and prune to promote growth
* Nurture newly sown seeds and tend new growth
Full Moon
Characteristics of the Phase: The pull of the moon is at is greatest during this phase, creating more moisture in the soil and drawing water upward to the fruit, seeds and leaves. As the moon begins to wane, attention is turned from the above ground growth to the roots.
What to Plant: Root crops and those plants that have highly developed and extending root systems, such as trees and shrubs
Specific Plants: Beets, biennials, bulbs, carrots, garlic, onion, peanuts, perennials, radishes
Garden Chores:
* Mow lawns and prune to retard growth
* Transplant those plants that have developed root systems, such as perennials
* Harvest herbs while their water content is highest.
Last Quarter
Characteristics of the Phase: At this phase the moon again sits at a 90 degree angle to the sun, which decreases the strength of its pull on the waters of earth. The moon is now moving into its final stages, so this is thought of as a resting period. While it is a not a time to plant new seeds or transplant existing plants, there are still garden tasks that fare better when conducted under this phase. According to folklore weeds pulled in this phase will not grow back.
What to Plant: Nothing
Specific Plants: None
Garden Chores:
* Harvest
* Mow lawns and prune to retard growth
* Begin compost heaps and vermiculture bins
* Pull weeds
* Remove pests and diseased plant material
* Till under cover crops
* Cultivate, fertilize and till fields
* General clean up
KLEIN’S RECIPES OF THE MONTH—These are a selection of relatively simple recipes chosen by our staff. New recipes appear monthly. Enjoy!!
You may have heard of hominy, but do you know how it’s made? Hominy is nothing more than mature corn that’s had its hard, outer shell (or hull) and germ removed. To remove the hull, the kernels are soaked in either lye, lime, or diluted hardwood ash. While soaking, the inside of the kernel expands faster than the outside, causing it to split. The result is a large, fluffy, somewhat chewy kernel.
White and yellow hominy are most common, but blue and red are also options. You’ve probably heard of grits — it’s actually hominy that’s been dried and ground. Whole hominy is also available, either canned or dried.
Most grocery stores carry ready-to-use canned yellow and white varieties. Dried hominy, on the other hand, is harder to find and has to be soaked (like dried beans) before cooking. If you can find it and have the extra time, it’s perfect for soup.
Source: www.cuisineathome.com
ZYDECO SOUP—A hearty, super-flavorful classic soup recipe from the pages of Better Homes & Gardens. Perfect with a side of homemade cornbread!
4 stalks celery, chopped
2 onions, chopped
2 sweet bell peppers, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 TBS. olive oil
2 tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. dry mustard
1 tsp cumin
1 tsp. dried basil
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried thyme
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 tsp. ground pepper
1/4 tsp. cayenne
2x 15 oz. cans black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed
2x 15 oz. cans golden hominy, drained and rinsed
2x 14.5 oz. cans diced tomatoes with juice
2x 14.5 oz. cans veggie or chicken broth
2 TBS. fresh chopped parsley
2 TBS. molasses
In a pot, cook the celery, onion sweet peppers and garlic in hot oil about 7 minutes over medium high heat until softened. Stir in the paprika, sugar, dry mustard, cumin, basil, oregano, thyme, ground cloves, ground pepper and cayenne. Cook 5 minutes more. Stir in the black-eyed peas, hominy, undrained tomatoes, broth, parsley and molasses. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes or more until all is cooked through. Thin as desired with a little water or broth. Serves 8.
BLACK BEANS CON JALAPEÑO–This flavorful, Mexican-style dish can be used as a salsa or a salad. Source: www.allrecipes.com
1 (15 ounce) can white hominy, drained
1 (15 ounce) can black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup diced white onion
1 cup diced green bell pepper
1 cup diced red bell pepper
1 cup diced green onions with tops
¼ cup seeded and chopped jalapeno pepper
1 (24 ounce) jar picante sauce
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons white sugar
½ cup finely chopped cilantro
In a large bowl, gently stir together the hominy, black beans, onion, green and red peppers, green onion, jalapeño, picante sauce, cumin, salt, sugar and cilantro. Refrigerate at least an hour before serving. Serve with tortilla chips on a bed of lettuce. Serves12.
SHRIMP AND SCALLOP POSOLE—A seafarer’s twist on a Mexican classic from Bon Appetit @ www.bonappetit.com
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 cups (or more) bottled clam juice
1 (15-ounce) can white hominy, drained, rinsed
1 cup salsa verde (tomatillo salsa), medium or mild
2 tablespoons finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes in oil
1 tablespoon finely grated lime peel
1 pound uncooked jumbo shrimp, peeled, deveined
1 pound large sea scallops, halved horizontally
4 tablespoons chopped cilantro, divided
Heat oil in large deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion; sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic; stir about 30 seconds. Add 3 cups clam juice and next 4 ingredients to skillet; simmer 5 minutes. Add shrimp, scallops, and 3 tablespoons cilantro to simmering broth, adding more clam juice to thin if necessary. Simmer until seafood is just opaque in center, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Divide among bowls; sprinkle with remaining cilantro. Serves 6.
CHICKEN HOMINY SOUP—Nothing could be easier!! From Bon Appetit @ www.bonappetit.com
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 bunches green onions, sliced
4 teaspoons ground cumin
2 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika
10 cups low-salt chicken broth
1 14 1/2-ounce) can petite tomatoes in juice
1 purchased roast chicken, meat shredded, skin and bones discarded
4 teaspoons hot pepper sauce
3 (15-ounce) cans golden or white hominy in juice
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add green onions, cumin, and paprika; sauté 5 minutes. Add broth, tomatoes with juice, chicken, and hot pepper sauce. Puree hominy with juice in processor or blender. Mix into soup; bring to boil. Reduce heat; simmer 15 minutes. Stir in cilantro. Ladle soup into bowls. Serves 8.
NATURAL NEWS–
Seed Shortages in 2021
By Natalie Hoidal, Educator for the University of Minnesota Extension (extension.umn.edu)
If you’ve been browsing seed catalogs lately, you may have noticed that many varieties have completely sold out, and some companies have stopped taking orders from gardeners entirely. There are reasons for seed shortages and ways to get access to the seeds you need.
Is there really a seed shortage?
The seed shortages we are seeing reflected on seed company websites are complex, and don’t necessarily mean that there is an actual shortage of seeds. There are many factors playing into the “sold out” messages on some of our favorite varieties. Some of those factors include:
-A surge in demand
Last year, we saw unprecedented seed sales at the onset of COVID-19, and companies struggled to keep up with demand. Griffin, a large horticultural supply company, conducted a survey of 1,000 first time gardeners in 2020, and 80% of them said that they would probably or definitely continue gardening in 2021. Based on early seed sales in 2021, it seems that the resurgence in gardening is indeed going to continue this year.
Many companies responded to the pandemic by ordering more seed for 2021. Seed companies buy from farmers, who grow crops specifically for seed, and so this meant bringing in new growers and asking current growers to produce more seed for this year. However, many of these contracts are negotiated early in the year (pre-pandemic in 2020), so some companies may not have been able to account for the increased demand last year. These companies tend to keep plenty of seed in stock so they do not run out entirely, and have had more time to account for increased demand in 2021.
-Delays in packing
Seed companies tend to store seeds in bulk, and repackage them into seed packets throughout the year. Due to COVID-19 workplace safety precautions, this process has been slow for many companies.
While many seed companies anticipated higher demand, they continue to operate more slowly than they would in non-pandemic conditions, which means it can be difficult to keep up with orders. Smaller seed companies may just have 1 or 2 people processing orders, so with increasing demand, it’s both hard to keep up and hard to predict availability.
-Localized shortages
Every year we see seed shortages with specific varieties. Because seed has to be grown in the natural world, insects, diseases, hail, floods and droughts can have an impact on crops grown for seed.
If there are only a few growers of a certain variety of carrots, and one of them loses a substantial portion of their crop, there will likely be a shortage of that variety in the following year. However, there will be plenty of other varieties to choose from.
As you’re looking at seed catalogs and seeing that many of your favorite varieties are sold out, or perhaps one of your favorite companies is no longer selling to gardeners, do not panic. The seed supply is not depleted, it has simply been a challenging year to manage increased demand.
Where can you still find seeds?
-Support your local gardening store. Even if some seed companies are not selling directly to gardeners, you can still find their seeds on racks at many of your local gardening stores and grocery stores.
-Attend a seed swap! See if your community has a local seed library, or a seed saving group. Many seed saving groups are doing online seed swaps this year and finding creative ways to share seeds safely with community members.
-There are still plenty of seeds available through seed company websites, you may just need to be a bit flexible with variety selection if one you want has sold out, or buy it from a different vendor.
-Explore smaller seed companies. Many gardeners use the same 3 or 4 companies every year to purchase seeds. But there are so many local and regional seed companies to choose from!
I have extra seeds. How can I share them with others?
Many growers only have space for a few plants of each variety, but the minimum number of seeds in a seed packet is often 25-100. This means that if you’ve ordered seeds this year, you may have plenty of extras to share.
If you have leftover seed from last year, they should be fine to plant and share again. Consider planning a seed swap with neighbors or putting up a little free seed library. If you have extra space to start seeds indoors, you might even consider starting seeds and sharing transplants with your neighbors. Make sure to label everything well.
If your seeds are saved from your garden, only share seeds from healthy plants so that you’re not transmitting any pathogens to your neighbors.
MARCH’S PLANT OF THE MONTH:
Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis)
Moth orchids are among the most rewarding orchids to grow for both beginner and expert alike. Their relative ease of care makes them the perfect leap into the vast world of orchid growing. Compared to most orchid types, plants are relatively undemanding and readily available year round; and at a very affordable price. Blooms are showy and very long-lasting, oftentimes lasting up to four or more months. And unlike most orchids, plants oftentimes rebloom on old flower stalks so long as the stalk remains green. (Therefore, flower stalks should not be pruned back to the plant unless they turn completely brown.) The leaves are large and leathery. Plants are generally not prone to pests and love to spend our humid summers outdoors in a shady location. Doing so encourages vigorous growth and a greater chance of reblooming. Natural bloomtime is generally in late winter and early spring.
Care of Phalaenopsis Orchids:
Light–The Phalaenopsis orchids grow well near bright windows, with no direct sun light. An east window is ideal in the home; shaded south or west windows are acceptable. In dull, northern winter climates, a full southern exposure may be required. Artificial lighting is acceptable. Two- or four-tube fixtures are suspended six inches to one foot above the foliage, 12 to 16 hours daily. In a greenhouse, heavy shade must be provided to allow 800 to 1,500 f-c of light. No shadow should be seen if you hold your hand one foot above the leaves. If leaves are hot, reduced light intensity.
Temperature for Phalaenopsis should be above 60 °F at night and between 70° and 82 °F during the day. Although higher temperatures result in fast leaf and root growth, lower light and good air movement must accompany. Do not exceed the limit of 95°F. Temperatures below 78 °F for three to five weeks with good light are needed for initiating flower spikes. Wide fluctuating temperatures and low humidity can cause bud drop on plants with flower buds ready to open.
Water is especially critical for this orchid. The medium should never be allowed to dry out completely. Plants should be thoroughly watered and not watered again until nearly dry, but not until bone dry. In the heat of the summer in a dry climate, this may be every two to three days, whereas during the winter of a northern climate, it may be every ten or more days. Do not allow water to accumulate in the crown for long to avoid contract decaying diseases. Do not sit pots in standing water for long.
Humidity is recommended to be between 50% and 80% of relative humidity. If RH is lower than 40% in the home, set plants on trays of gravel, partially filled with water so that pots never sit in water. Grouping plants together can slightly raise the humidity in the immediate surrounding area. In humid climates, such as in a greenhouse, it is imperative that the humid air is moving to prevent fungal or bacterial diseases to set in.
Fertilizer should be applied on a regular schedule, especially if the weather is warm when plants are actively growing. Application of a complete fertilizer, such as Jack’s All Purpose or similar, at a rate of half to one teaspoon per one gallon of good quality water at each watering. Reduce this frequency to every other or third watering when it is cool (from November thru February). Make sure that an ample amount of water is applied to allow some excess water to drain from each pot. Water with a high salt concentration should be avoided.
Potting is best done in late spring or early summer after blooming has completed. Phalaenopsis plants must be potted in quick draining mixes, such as fir bark, tree fern fiber, chunky sphagnum peat, charcoal, perlite, or combinations of these. Root rot will occur if plants are allowed to sit in an old, soggy medium. Your young plants should grow fast enough to need repotting yearly and should be potted in a finer grade medium to allow good root contact. Mature plants are potted in a coarser medium may stay in the same pots for years, provided that medium is changed when needed. To repot, remove all old medium from the roots, trim off rotted roots, and spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in a pot. Fill the rest of the pot with medium, working through the roots, so that the junction of the upper roots and the stem is slightly below the medium. Be careful not to leave large air pockets in pots. Use a stick to push the medium in between the roots. Keep plants in shade and wait for one to three days before watering.
Klein’s currently has an extensive selection of both standard and mini- moth orchids in stock.
AROUND TOWN:
For neighborhood events or garden tours that you would like posted in our monthly newsletter, please contact Rick at (608) 244-5661 or rick@kleinsfloral.com. Please include all details, i.e. dates, locations, prices, brief description, etc. Events must be garden related and must take place in the Madison vicinity and we must receive your information by the first of the month in which the event takes place for it to appear in that month’s newsletter.
***Due to the ongoing Coronavirus pandemic, nearly all garden/plant related public events in the Madison area continue to be cancelled or postponed until further notice.***
MARCH IN THE GARDEN-–A checklist of things to do this month.
___Pinch back over wintered geraniums one last time. Root cuttings if needed.
___Check perennials for heaving during warm spells. Re-mulch as needed.
___Check for early spring bloomers like crocus, winter aconite & hellebores.
___Begin uncovering roses by month’s end.
___Continue bringing out your cooled forced bulbs for indoor enjoyment.
___Inspect stored summer bulbs like dahlias, cannas and glads for rotting.
___Check for and treat for pests on plants brought in from the garden.
___Keep bird feeders full. Clean periodically with soap and water.
___Keep birdbaths full and clean for the return of the first robins & other arrivals.
___Repair and clean out birdhouses. Early arrivals will be here soon!
___Inventory last year’s leftover seeds before ordering or buying new ones.
___Seed starting is in full swing: petunias, tomatoes, peppers and cole crops.
___Sterilize seed starting equipment and pots with a 1:16 bleach solution.
___Shop for summer bulbs like gladiolas, lilies and dahlias.
___Remove mulch & rodent protection (chicken wire) from tulip and crocus beds
___Use the winter days to plan next summer’s garden.
___March is the month to prune most fruit trees and apply dormant oil.
___Prune late summer and fall blooming shrubs.
___Do not prune spring blooming shrubs like lilacs, forsythia or viburnum.
___Begin bringing in branches for forcing: pussy willow, forsythia, quince, etc.
___As the days lengthen and new growth occurs, increase fertilizing houseplants
___Check your garden for any plant damage from weather or rodents.
___Ready the lawn mower—just a few weeks to go.
___Visit Klein’s—the showrooms are filling up with spring annuals. Pansies, violas, calendula, cole crops & onion sets become available by month’s end.
Some of our very favorite seed and plant sources include:
For seeds:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds @ www.rareseeds.com or 417/924-8887
Burpee @ www.burpee.com or 800/888-1447
Harris Seeds @ www.harrisseeds.com or 800/514-4441
Johnny’s Select Seeds @ www.johnnyseeds.com or 207/861-3901
Jung’s Seeds @ www.jungseed.com or 800/247-5864
Park’s Seeds @ www.parkseed.com or 800/845-3369
Pinetree @ www.superseeds.com or 207/926-3400
Seeds of Change @ www.seedsofchange.com or 888/762-7333
Seed Savers @ www.seedsavers.org or 563/382-5990
Select Seeds @ www.selectseeds.com or 800/684-0395
Territorial Seeds @ www.territorialseed.com or 888/657-3131
Thompson & Morgan @ www.thompson-morgan.com or 800/274-7333
For bulbs:
Brent & Becky’s Bulbs @ www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com or 877/661-2852
Colorblends @ www.colorblends.com or 888/847-8637
John Scheeper’s @ www.johnscheepers.com or 860/567-0838
McClure & Zimmerman @ www.mzbulb.com or 800/883-6998
For plants:
High Country Gardens @ www.highcountrygardens.com or 800/925-9387
Logee’s Greenhouses @ www.logees.com or 888/330-8038
Plant Delights Nursery @ www.plantdelights.com or 912/772-4794
Roots and Rhizomes @ www.rootsrhizomes.com or 800/374-5035
Wayside Gardens @ www.waysidegardens.com or 800/213-0379
White Flower Farm @ www.whiteflowerfarm.com or 800/503-9624
A SEED STARTING PRIMER–
Starting your own plants from seed can be both rewarding and frustrating for the beginning gardener. From experience, it’s best to start out slow. This eliminates some of the frustration. Experience will gain you knowledge and confidence. Before starting your seeds, read the packet and get a little basic information. Some seeds are best sown directly in the garden come spring and not started indoors. It’s best to do a little research by going on-line or purchasing a good gardening book. The packets themselves will usually tell you whether to direct sow in the garden or how many weeks before our last frost date to sow indoors. Our last frost date is about May 10. Using a calendar, count back from May 10 and this will be your sow date.
One can start seeds on any sunny windowsill and in almost any container. Warmth and moisture are critical in getting most seeds to germinate. But a few pieces of basic and inexpensive equipment purchased at your garden center and/or hardware store will help you get started and make your seed starting experience a great success. Here is a shopping list:
*A heating mat–makes seeds germinate quickly and uniformly
*A few 10×20” trays without holes
*A few clear humidity domes
*A sterile seed starting mix
*A 4’ shop lamp w/ 2 fluorescent bulbs (you don’t need “gro-lights”)
or a seed growing rack if you’d like to make an investment
*A few 10×20” trays with holes
*A few sheets of empty cell packs, e.g. 4-packs or 6-packs
*A water mister
*A timer
*A soilless potting mix
All of the above items, except the timer, are available at Klein’s.
Again, following package instructions, sow the seeds, as many as you want, in a very shallow, open container, filled with moistened seed starting mix. This container can be anything from very low or cut off dairy containers to disposable food storage containers. Per package instructions, cover or don’t cover the seed. Some seeds require light for germination. Next place your seeded containers in a tray without holes, mist them till well watered and cover with a humidity dome. Place your covered tray on the plugged in heating mat under the shop light. Set your timer so the shop light is on for 13 hours (off for 11 hours).
In a few days, as your seeds begin to sprout, remove them from under the humidity dome and place in a well-lit, warm location. Keep your seeds and seedlings moist. Different seeds sprout at different rates so this can take from a few days to a few weeks. Once all your seeds have germinated, unplug your heating mat. You can now move all of your seedlings to under the shop light still set at 13 hours.
Once your seedlings have 2 sets of “real” leaves it’s time to “prick them out” (transplant them). Do this by placing a sheet of empty cell packs in a tray with holes. The holes now become necessary for proper drainage. Fill the cells with soilless potting mix and moisten well with the mister. Using a pen or pencil “dibble” a hole into each of the cells. This is where you’ll now place your seedling. Remove the seed starting mix and seedlings as a clump from their starting containers. Gently break apart this root ball, separating your seedlings. The pen or pencil will come in handy as an added tool to help separate the seedlings. Carefully place one seedling in each of the holes you put in the prepped cells. Gently firm in with your finger tips. Mist well to water thoroughly and place in a warm, well lit area. Using your shop light again makes this easy. The seedlings may seem weak and somewhat abused, but they’re very resilient and will pop back quickly. When watering, fertilize your new plants with a very dilute solution, rather than at full rate. By May 10 your flowers and vegetables should be ready to put in your garden and you can say that you did it yourself–beginning to end.
BEHIND THE SCENES AT KLEIN’S—This is a sneak peek of what is going on each month behind the scenes in our greenhouses. Many people are unaware that our facility operates year round or that we have 10 more greenhouses on the property in addition to the 6 open for retail. At any given moment we already have a jump on the upcoming season–be it poinsettias in July, geraniums in December or fall mums in May.
IN MARCH:
—Transplanting is in full swing on the transplanting line in our back greenhouses.
Employees work 8-10 hour shifts planting thousands of plugs and tiny seedlings into the cell packs you purchase in the spring. Once planted, the flats move by conveyor and then monorail into the various greenhouses, all kept at different temperatures depending on the plant.
—The greenhouses and showrooms are filling fast with thousands of hanging
and potted plants. We’re constantly moving product around, trying to make the best use of space.
—By the end of the month we’re moving product outside into hoop houses. We move product that is very cold tolerant, such as pansies, dianthus, dusty miller, alyssum and even petunias. The cold keeps them compact and pest free and hardens them off for the transition outside. We also need the room in our ever-filling greenhouses.
—Perennial plugs and bare roots arrive and are stepped up into 3 1/2”, quart and gallon sizes. Our perennials are grown quite cold so they invest their energy into rooting out, rather than growing. Plants remain compact. Any remaining perennials from last season are moved outdoors from an unheated greenhouse.
—Geraniums are pinched and shaped for the last time by the first week of the
month. Any later pinching will delay blooming too much for spring sales.
—Retail items are arriving nonstop for unpacking and pricing, everything from
garden ornaments and pottery to pesticides and fertilizers.
PERMANENT FEATURES–
KLEIN’S MONTHLY NEWSLETTER
Have our monthly newsletter e-mailed to you automatically by signing up on the right side of our home page. We’ll offer monthly tips, greenhouse news and tidbits, specials and recipes. . .everything you need to know from your favorite Madison greenhouse. And tell your friends. It’s easy to do.
THE MAD GARDENER–“Madison’s Firsthand Source for Expert Gardening Advice”
Ask us your gardening questions by e-mailing us at madgardener@kleinsfloral.com. Klein’s in-house Mad Gardener will e-mail you with an answer as promptly as we can. The link is posted on our home page and in all newsletters.
We can only answer those questions pertaining to gardening in Southern Wisconsin and we reserve the right to leave correspondence unanswered at our discretion. Please allow 2-3 days for a response.
TO WRITE A REVIEW OF KLEIN’S, PLEASE LINK TO
FACEBOOK
Follow Klein’s on Facebook where we post updates and photos on a regular basis.
TWITTER
Join Klein’s on Twitter where we post company updates and photos on a regular basis.
SENIOR CITIZEN DISCOUNT
We offer a 10% Off Senior Citizen Discount every Tuesday to those 62 and above. This discount is not in addition to other discounts or sales. Please mention that you are a senior before we ring up your purchases. Does not apply to wire out orders or services, i.e. delivery, potting, etc.
RECYCLING POTS & TRAYS
Plastic flower pots and garden edging can now be recycled as part of the City of Madison’s rigid plastic program. Flowerpots and edging must be free of dirt and can be placed in your green recycling bin. For more information call 267-2626 or visit www.cityofmadison.com/streets/
DELIVERY INFO
Klein’s Floral and Greenhouses delivers daily, except Sundays, throughout all of Madison and much of Dane County including: Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Middleton, Monona, Oregon, Shorewood Hills, Sun Prairie, Verona, Waunakee and Windsor. We do not deliver to Cambridge, Columbus, Deerfield or Stoughton.
Current delivery rate on 1-4 items is $7.95 for Madison, Maple Bluff, Monona and Shorewood Hills; $8.95 for Cottage Grove, DeForest, Fitchburg, McFarland, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor; and $9.95 for Marshall, Middleton, Oregon and Verona. An additional $3.00 will be added for deliveries of 4-10 items and $5.00 added for deliveries of more than 10 items. For deliveries requiring more than one trip, a separate delivery charge will be added for each trip.
A minimum order of $25.00 is required for delivery.
We not only deliver our fabulous fresh flowers, but also houseplants, bedding plants and hardgoods. There may be an extra charge for very large or bulky items.
Delivery to the Madison hospitals is $5.95. Deliveries to the four Madison hospitals are made during the early afternoon. Items are delivered to the hospital’s volunteer rooms and not directly to the patients’ rooms per hospital rules.
There is no delivery charge for funerals in the city of Madison or Monona, although normal rates apply for morning funeral deliveries to Madison’s west side (west of Park St.). Our normal rates also apply for funeral deliveries in the surrounding communities at all times. Although we don’t deliver on Sundays, we will deliver funeral items on Sundays at the regular delivery rate.
Morning delivery is guaranteed to the following Madison zip codes, but only if requested: 53703, 53704, 53714, 53716, 53718 and Cottage Grove, DeForest, Maple Bluff, Marshall, McFarland, Monona, Sun Prairie, Waunakee and Windsor.
We begin our delivery day at 8:00 a.m. and end at approximately 3:00 p.m. We do not usually deliver after 4:00 unless specific exceptions are made with our drivers.
Except for holidays, the following west-side zip codes and communities are delivered only during the afternoon: 53705, 53706, 53711, 53713, 53717, 53719, 53726, Fitchburg, Middleton, Oregon, Shorewood Hills and Verona.
During holidays (Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, etc.) we are able to make morning deliveries to all of the above areas. We are not able to take closely timed deliveries on any holiday due to the sheer volume of such requests.
It’s best to give us a range of time and we’ll try our absolute hardest. Orders for same day delivery must be placed by 12:30 p.m. or by 2:30 p.m. for Madison zip codes 53704 and 53714.
DEPARTMENT HEADS: Please refer all questions, concerns or feedback in the following departments to their appropriate supervisor.
Phone: 608/244-5661 or 888/244-5661
Horticulturalist & General Manager–Jamie VandenWymelenberg jamie@kleinsfloral.com
Accounts, Billing and Purchasing—Kathryn Derauf kathryn@kleinsfloral.com
Delivery Supervisor & Newsletter Coordinator—Rick Halbach rick@kleinsfloral.com
Owner, Floral Designer & Purchasing—Sue Klein sue@kleinsfloral.com
RELATED RESOURCES AND WEB SITES
University of Wisconsin Extension
1 Fen Oak Ct. #138
Madison, WI 53718
608/224-3700
Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic
Dept. of Plant Pathology
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
Insect Diagnostic Lab
240 Russell Labs
1630 Linden Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
U.W. Soil and Plant Analysis Lab
8452 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-4364
American Horticultural Society
Garden Catalogs (an extensive list with links)
Invasive Species
Community Groundworks
3601 Memorial Dr., Ste. 4
Madison, WI 53704
608/240-0409
Madison Area Master Gardeners (MAMGA)
Wisconsin Master Gardeners Program
Department of Horticulture
1575 Linden Drive
University of Wisconsin – Madison
Madison, WI 53706
608/265-4504
The Wisconsin Gardener
Allen Centennial Gardens
620 Babcock Dr.
Madison, WI 53706
608/262-8406
Olbrich Botanical Gardens
3330 Atwood Ave.
Madison, WI 53704
608/246-4550
Rotary Gardens
1455 Palmer Dr.
Janesville, WI 53545
608/752-3885
University of WI Arboretum
1207 Seminole Hwy.
Madison, WI 53711
608/263-7888
University of Wisconsin-West Madison
Agricultural Research Center
8502 Mineral Point Rd.
Verona, WI 53593
608/262-2257
PLANTS POISONOUS TO CHILDREN:
Children may find the bright colors and different textures of plants irresistible, but some plants can be poisonous if touched or eaten. If you’re in doubt about whether or not a plant is poisonous, don’t keep it in your home. The risk is not worth it. The following list is not comprehensive, so be sure to seek out safety information on the plants in your home to be safe.
•Bird of paradise
•Bull nettle
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Crocus
•Daffodil
•Deadly nightshade
•Dieffenbachia (dumb cane)
•Foxglove
•Glory lily
•Hemlock
•Holly berry
•Indian tobacco
•Iris
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Lily of the valley
•Marijuana
•Mescal bean
•Mexicantes
•Mistletoe
•Morning glory
•Mountain laurel
•Night-blooming jasmine
•Nutmeg
•Oleander
•Philodendron
•Poison ivy
•Poison sumac
•Pokeweed
•Poppy
•Potato
•Privet
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Water hemlock
•Wisteria
PLANTS POISONOUS TO PETS:
Below is a list of some of the common plants which may produce a toxic reaction in animals. This list is intended only as a guide to plants which are generally identified as having the capability for producing a toxic reaction. Source: The National Humane Society website @ http://www.humanesociety.org/
•Aconite
•Apple
•Arrowgrasses
•Autumn Crocus
•Azaleas
•Baneberry
•Bird-of-Paradise
•Black locust
•Bloodroot
•Box
•Buckeye
•Buttercup
•Caladium
•Carolina jessamine
•Castor bean
•Chinaberry tree
•Chockcherries
•Christmas berry
•Christmas Rose
•Common privet
•Corn cockle
•Cowbane
•Cow cockle
•Cowsliprb
•Daffodil
•Daphne
•Day lily
•Delphinium (Larkspur)
•Dumbcane
•Dutchman’s breeches
•Easter lily
•Elderberry
•Elephant’s ear
•English Ivy
•European Bittersweet
•Field peppergrass
•Foxglove
•Holly
•Horsechestnut
•Horse nettle
•Hyacinth
•Iris
•Jack-in-the-pulpit
•Jerusalem Cherry
•Jimsonweed
•Lantana
•Larkspur
•Laurels
•Lily of the valley
•Lupines
•Mayapple
•Milk vetch
•Mistletoe
•Monkshood
•Morning glory
•Mustards
•Narcissus
•Nicotiana
•Nightshade
•Oaks
•Oleander
•Philodendrons
•Pokeweed
•Poinsettia
•Poison hemlock
•Potato
•Rhododendron
•Rhubarb
•Rosary pea
•Sago palm
•Skunk cabbage
•Smartweeds
•Snow-on-the-mountain
•Sorghum
•Star of Bethlehem
•Wild black cherry
•Wild radish
•Wisteria
•Yellow jessamine
•Yew